Suburban :: 1994 - Heater Is Not Working And No Control On Front Vents
Feb 22, 2013
I have a 1994 suburban1500 heater is not working in front or rear and in the front I have no control on the vents it only blows on the floor flashes if I try and change from floor to vents or defrost also blows air on floor while driving with the fan off so seems that the vent is stuck open the rear I have control on vent or floor just will not blow heat just outside temp air I had the same problem with a buick I had and never figured out the problem this is driving me crazy.
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My 1994 Chevy Suburban will not engage the front drive shaft. It has an electric actuator and it will not engage. the transfer case engages but not the front axal. When I shift the transfer case into 4Hi or 4Low it will shift itself but the light will not turn on. I have heared rumors that you might have to manualy connect it to the battery and have a kill switch in the cab. What is the problem and should I connect it manualy?
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I have a 2007 Camry SE-V6 and recently noticed my heater is not working properly. The fan dial works fine and I can adjust the speed of the fan no problem. When I adjust from the defroster, to the feet, to the face etc.. I don't hear that noise I usually hear of the system opening or closing the appropriate vents in behind the dash - all I hear is the fan blower going - as though it's just blowing on my windshield but no air seems to be coming in any of the vents (ie. if I put the dial to the face and the fan speed on high, no air comes out the vents).
If I adjust the temperature, I can feel heat is there vs. cold but since no air is blowing out (all I hear is the blower fan going), I don't get any heat in the cabin. Is this a fuse problem or something more serious? I have about 70,000km so I'm out warranty of course....
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Push A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry and recently the air flow from the heater has become stuck on the front vents. Regardless of what setting I turn the switch to (defrost, floor, etc.) it doesn't switch from the vents. It seemed to happen about the same time the thermostat died, which I had to replace (successfully I think).
I looked under the hood for a vacuum hose that might be disconnected (guessing) and under the dash for a wire that might have come loose or disconnected, but to no avail. I am guessing that some part on the heater has stopped working and needs replaced, but I haven't a clue as to which one...hopefully one that won't require pulling the dash off.
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The ac/heater works just fine. But the air only blows from front vents towards face; even if i press button to defrost or floor or frontnfloor.
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I own a 99 Suburban 1500 5.7. The front blower motor stopped working on all speeds so I replaced the resistor, it still did not work. I then replaced the speed selector switch and it started working fine. Three days later I smelled a slight electrical burning smell and the fan stopped working again. I plan on replacing the switch again to see if that is what went bad. Whats causing this to happen? Maybe the motor is going bad and causing the switch to short?
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So I own a 04 GLI and for some reason I went to turn my lights on one day and the lighting to my Heater/AC controller light is not working.
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While diagnosing a problem with my rear AC not working, I pulled the rear plenum apart. I noticed the rear heater coil was really hot even though I did not turn the heat on at all that day.
I suspect a bad heater control valve. The one that stops hot coolant from going to the core when the AC is on. I have manual temp controls so I assumen it is vacuum controlled. All data does not give me a location or vacuum routing specs for the valve so I am asking here.
1) Where do I find the heater control valve?
2) Does it shut off the coolant to both the front and rear heater cores or just the front?
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I have a 2000 yukon and the climate control stopped working. The defrost works just fine but the heater/ac stopped working nothing blows out from my vents when ac/heater setting is on. I checked all fuses and wires and everything is ok and connected. I just replaced my cd player and the next day climate control stopped working. I went back and checked the wireing of the cd player as well, everything is fine. Would i need a new climate control, or senser or is there a fuse on the heater itself.
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I have a 1994 Ford Explorer and the cruise control stopped working about a year ago. The horn still works. I changed the fuse but it's still not working. My mechanic checked the cruise control, and was able to determine it was either the clock spring or the control module located above the glove box. He told me it was most likely a bad clock spring, especially considering the number of miles on the truck (385,000). However, in speaking with a Ford dealership parts department, the '94 Ford Explorer does not have a clock spring. So, I'm back to square one.
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2010 camry 4 cylinder, Heater/ac air flow control not working. Only blows air to defroster which it has no temp control.
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My climate control dial lights have stopped working for some odd reason.. They dont light up anymore.
I checked the fuses, they all seem to be ok (is there even a fuse for these lights?) How do i go about fixing this problem?
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My wife's 08 mountaineers heater has stopped working on every setting but high it has the dual climate control with rear heat and ac I've heard there's a control module behind the glove box. Is this true and how hard is it to replace?
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The front seat heater control switch is hard to reach while driving so I was wondering if I could use the 12volt version of the Willhi automatic temperature control .
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So my overhead ac/heater control lights front and rear went out, where the lights are to replace them.
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Car sat there for 2 days non driven. Started it up, turned on the AC and it wouldn't blow through the front vents no matter what "mode" I select whether its on vents or legs. Instead it only blows through the windshield ones for the windshield. And it is also blowing outside air or maybe hot air, regardless what temperature I select and with the "AC" button on.
Before when I would press the "AC" button while the air was running I can hear a compressor or some clicking sound which is normal but now there's no sound when I press that and no sound when "mode" is changed.
What I've tried:
All fuses, all are good.
AC relay (good).
Disconnect the battery for 10 min, reconnect. Nothing.
Repair manual suggested action where it displays some codes. (I failed to link those codes to a proper definition in the manual)
Its been 90+ degree here in CA. I cant drive this car without AC.
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I am trying to troubleshoot why my heater blower, cruise control and info center above my rear-view mirror has stopped working. I am trying to confirm power to an orange wire next to the driver-side fuse box. I have confirmed no power at the fuses. I am hoping the problem is the wire box below the fuse box and not the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram and the power feed to these three fuses is via an Orange wire. There are two Orange wires in the box, I am trying to determine which one feeds the fuses for these three devices. I have a picture of the fuse box.
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I took my 1996 Aerostar to get a coolant leak fixed. It had leaked down 4 litres+. I noticed the gauge was in the red. When I got my vehicle back from the shop the rear heater worked but the front heater didn't. I took it back and they flushed it out to get any air bubbles and now the front heater works and the rear heater doesn't work. Could it be the controls that are faulty. If so, is that very expensive. I'd rather have front heat then rear heat for defrost etc. Or could it be something else? It's odd that I get one or the other but not both.
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Ok heres the story 1994 ford f250 7.5 4x4 dual tanks I used both front and rear tanks regualrly than one day front tank stoped working fuel pump doesnt turn on when key is in the on postion now you can hear the rear turn on when switched to rear tank took off pigtail connector to front tank no power at all to tank took off swith in dash no power there either good relay and fuse funny thing is with swith turned to front fuel guage reads correctly switch to rear reads correctly Im stumped because oveiously Im getting power to the switch but checked wires at switch and cant get any power or at front tank but power to rear.
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I have a ac compressor that doesn't work all the time. I have read how voltage or low power can effect this. When mine does not start up, if you tap the end of the compressor with a rubber mallet, it engages and runs fine for an extended period. Am I dealing with a power supply issue, or could this just be a bad ac clutch?
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