Suburban :: 1990 - Transmission Fluid Spewed Out Of The Top Vent Tube
Aug 19, 2012
I was pulling a motorcycle trailer down the interstate about 75 mph for about 4 hours. When we got home I noticed it looked like there had been an oil leak. I looked underneath and it appears like tranny fluid spewed out of the top vent tube on the tranny. I have a 4x4 with a Automatic overdrive. It was tranny fluid and it does not appear that it was low on the stick when I checked it. We were pulling some hills and it would downshift but it seemed to be working fine. Seems to still work ok. We had the tranny rebuilt about 50,000 miles ago.
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My front differential on my 97 Silverado Z71 sometimes vents some fluid out of the vent tube. I end up smelling it in the interior while driving. The vent tube top is above the top of the radiator and has the little cap on it. The first time it did it, was during a heavy rain. I had it in 4wd on the freeway doing around 60-70 mph. I figured it was because I was in 4wd. It did it yesterday after a 35 mile drive on the freeway again, but I was in 2wd the whole time. Outside air temp was over 100 degrees and I am using Royal Purple fluid. I checked the level a couple of weeks ago and it was below the fill plug about 1/2 inch.
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I have the 4r75e transmission. Last week I was driving for about 20-30 mins when my transmission fluid started to boiled and came out the dipstick tube. I let it cool off then took my time and drove it home. I know my transmission is not shot because I am getting full power on the transmission. After I got home I checked the fluid level and it's good, then I disconnect the transmission fluid lines on the transmission to see if I am having flow, but no luck...
I took my air hose and blew the lines out and they were clear. I also blew into the transmission thru the ports where the lines were connected. I started the truck up and the fluid came out with full force about 1-2qarts came out before I shut the truck off. I was all excited and I connected all the lines And started the truck to go for a test drive but my gut told me to disconnect the line to see if I am still having a flow and as suspected no flow...
I took off the lines that connected to the transmission and still no flow. I blew the air into the transmission again and started the truck up and bam I have flow again for about 20 seconds... I shut the truck off and I decided to connected the lines back to the transmission and I disconnected the lines about 12" away from the transmission to put a clear hose that connected both lines to make a loop.
Started the truck and there was no flow, I disconnected the 5/8 nut on the transmission and blew the air into the transmission. Started the truck and only got a few dribbles. I check the fluid level and it's still good. I am stuck and don't know what to do... What part of the transmission send the hot fluid out to the cool. The valve body? The main pump? The solenoid???
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My 98 mountaineer keeps throwing rear end oil out the vent tube.. Why does it keep doing this?? its been doing this for a while and had to change an axle seal, I think because of this. It stopped doing this for a little while after I changed the seals and put in new oil.. Its not over full.. When it stopped I figured it was because the oil was old and was foaming or something.. But now its back to doing it again... The tube is not plugged.. Why does it keep doing this???
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I decided to install a new Optima yellow top battery because I performed the battery check and found the voltage low and therefore believed my 2008 was still running on the original OEM 12v battery. Much to my surprise I found a non-OEM battery installed and the vent tube elbow missing!
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'90 Maxima...I've noticed coolant reservoir has been running low/dry and I also notice coolant dripping from the overflow hose. Why would it keep pushing more coolant out if there isn't an excess in the reservoir? Engine runs fine., no other issues.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Silverado 6.0 Ltr C2500 Auto tran Large Gas tank 120,000 miles. My gas tank filler tube vent hose has come off of its attaching point. It is still connected to the filler tube. I can not see where it connects on the other end. The small hose is long enough to reach the rear bumper on my truck noticed it hanging over the differential on the ground. Where to reconnect it to. I do have a check engine light showing. I fear my truck is falling apart slowly.
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Ok, I have a 98 F150 XLT, standard cab, 8 ft. bed, 2WD with limited slip - if any of that makes a difference.
The rear axle vent tube is literally blowing oil out the top, where it's loosely connected to the bed. It does this every few weeks. I pulled the hose and ran a rifle cleaning rod down it to make sure it wasn't plugged ... it wasn't.
It seems like it's building up pressure somewhere, then blowing all at once, but why?
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I own a 2004 F-150 FX4 5.7L V8, I notice this morning that I had gear oil coming out of my rear Axle Vent Tube. What would cause this issue? I'm kinda at a loss as to what would cause it.
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I have a F-250 4WD with 7.5L which has a MC/Holley 4180c sitting on top. It was getting very poor mpg (like 5-6 miles/gal) and then was getting harder and harder to start. This progressed rather quickly to not starting with fuel coming out of the primary vent tube. I suspect it has to do with the primary float stuck open. I was considering rebuilding the carburetor. Is this over reaction prematurely or is there something like float adjustment that may rectify all of the symptoms described. If a rebuild is in order what is the information I would need to ensure getting the correct rebuild kit. Info that I have so far from research is it is Motorcraft ID #E5HE-9510-MC.
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I have a 96 geo prizm and there is a leak coming from one of the tubes. the tube is under the power steering fluid tubes on the right side of the engine. Don't know if it is oil or transmission fluid. Also it made the check engine light come on...
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just found out about this a few days ago. It seems that the leak is between the fluid container and the tube. I just used some zipper to tighten up the connector. Where to buy this tube and the steering wheel fluid, and how much are they? My car is a LE V6 2007.
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Pressure tested the system and found fluid running off lower hose where it connects to the water pump. I'm guessing replacement is a difficult job.
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I know I need to remove the reservoir to replace the pump but I can't get it out. I removed the storage compartment, then the bolt connecting the translucent top portion of the reservoir that connects to the front and the side bolt that connects the reservoir to the side of the truck. It is loose but I still cannot get the reservoir out.
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I just got my 2003 excursion v-10 gas and its bad but when I'm towing my camper it weighs 8500 lbs empty and I'm trying to back it up on the beach the tranny ( when I'm in reverse ) starts spitting trans fluid out the vent on top ! went on fire twice ! the trans temp gauge never gets hot tho and other than that it works perfect, I was told this was a big problem?
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1990 Buick Century w/3300 V6, fuel injection, less than 80,000 miles ... Vehicle may have had 200 miles p/yr put on it last 3 - 4 yrs. Was still regularly serviced. No previous problems no fluid leaks, clean motor.
Hesitated on hwy twice, wouldn't start after second hesitation, but did later & ran good. Wouldn't start for about 15 mins. after fueling once, but ran good when did start, had fuel pressure at sharder valve both times. Next trip after about 10 miles, started loosing power, finally quit, NO pressure at sharder valve. Towed in. Mechanic said ECM bad, changed it, ran idle, but would not accelerate, chk'd everything. Put different ECM in, same thing, idle, but won't accelerate, has chk'd fuel pressure, fuel regulator, ICM, CPS, everything can think of...
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So at 3 months and 4700 miles on the OD my car threw an over temp indicator driving to work. 5:30 am about 60-65 degrees with a passenger driving over the Santa Susana grade which is a 2 1/2 or so mile grade it starts showing the over temp indicator.
I had not plugged in the night before and had only been in the car for about 7 minutes. I was driving somewhere around 70 miles an hour and that ICE was screaming like it always does. As I backed off the throttle the lamp went out and I cruised it to work. I checked under the hood at work and sure enough it had spewed coolant around the pressurized coolant tank.
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I was changing my oil the other week and when i went to pull the filter I noticed that my tranny pan was wet around the front side, as well as the flywheel insp. plate, and the tranny dipstick tube. It wasn't even enough to drip on my driveway, but wet none the less. after cleaning it up really well and driving it around for 15 minutes it seemed to be coming from the dipstick tube about halfway between where it seats in the tranny and top end of the dipstick.
Removing the tube was easy, just one 10 mm bolt on the back of the engine. After further insp, there was a small piece of insulation on the tube where it passes between the engine and exhaust manifold. when i removed that insulation i noticed there was rust on both the top and bottom of where the insulation sits. i looked it over really well and didnt' see any cracks or holes. I then pluged one end and blew into the other and didnt' notice a loss of pressure or any hissing noise.
I figured if it wasn't leaking and it was already out i might as well clean off the rust and hit it with some paint. I ran a wire brush over the lowest spot of rust and what do you know, 3 tiny little pin holes. I used some 2 part apoxy from work and some aluminum duct tape to repair the hole temporarily until i got the new part in the mail yesterday. total install took around 10 minutes.
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Have a 2006 F-250 with 5.4 motor pulling a 25 ft house trailer. No issues until the towing began a couple weeks ago. Back pressure is building up in the transmission and it is blowing the dipstick out of the transmission tube and spraying fluid all over the place. Truck has 132k miles on it and last serviced @125k miles. No slippage. Fluid isn't burnt. Separate transmission heat gauge not registering hot and it is working - fuse not blown. The transmission does have an auxillary filter on it which is going to get changed tomorrow to see if that solves the problem. Transmission is Automatic. Not driving in 4th gear because of towing. Any thoughts what might be blocking to cause this pressure buildup?
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I'm trying to remove the throttle body on my 2002 Echo. However, the transmission dipstick tube is in the way of one of the throttle body bolts. How can I remove the transmission dipstick tube so that I can remove the throttle body?
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If I accelerate gently and keep the rpm down to about 2500 or less, I get a normal shift from 2 to 3 and I can then accelerate with vigor without any apparent problem.
If I accelerate the way I normally drive, at the 2 to 3 shift point the transmission misses the shift and I have to let off the throttle for a few seconds and wait for 3rd to engage. I usually see no codes, but once in a while P0758 reappears.
Both solenoids A and B have been replaced, as described in the thread referenced above.
More symptoms, and maybe this is a vital clue: the 3 to 4 shift is fine, but I've noticed that lockup takes a while to occur. When locked up, I normally see almost exactly 2000 rpm at 70 mph. I am seeing about 2150 rpm at 70 mph until lockup finally takes place, but I can't say exactly when it does happen---I have to watch the road now and again.
I understand there are a 3-2 solenoid and a pressure control solenoid, but I don't know enough about their purposes to decide that either needs to be replaced.
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