Subaru - Tribeca :: 2006 - Car Bucking And Accelerator Stopped Responding
Apr 11, 2016
I own a 2006 Subaru Tribeca with 125,000 miles. It has been well maintained and a great vehicle. On a recent long distance trip, after driving about 7 hours, going 70mph, the car started to buck and the accelerator stopped responding. It continued to lose speed as I pulled off the side of the highway. I turned the car off and restarted it and attempted to drive it but it wouldn't go over 10-15 mph. I didn't have any check engine lights. Called AAA and had the car towed 4 hours to our final destination. The mechanic has had the car for 4 days and can not find the cause of the event. I have a 22 hour drive back home in a month and I am extremely concerned. Did some research and have found others have had the problem but had codes come up. Research says it could be throttle pedal position sensor/ pedal assembly.
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We have a 2006 B9 Tribeca we purchased used in April. We have had no problems until September when the "puddle lamps" (small lamps under the doors) shorted out and made smoke go into the cabin of the car. Called Subaru dealer and found out there was a recall notice for this problem.Made an appt. and problem was fixed. Now...in the last two weeks though, there have been a dozen instances where the car will not start.It will crank over two/three times and quit. It never fires up and runs.I never know how many times I have to do this before it WILL start. Right now,it has not started since last night. Side note....there is now a strange noise coming from the heater fan box as well. Second side note.When I turn the key to start it,the "Info Center" display dims.
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I recently purchased a B9 Tribeca I had it completely checked out, brakes, engine everything. Everyone told me it was fine, this past Friday/Saturday was our first freeze and snow. I went to get into the car around noon, so it had warmed up to maybe 40 by then, and I put my foot on the brake pedal and it didn't feel right at all. Thinking I was imagining things I put it into reverse and took off the emergency brake, and realized rather quickly I had no brakes. quickly put it back into park and popped the hood. My brake fluid was full (right below the max line), I let the car sit there and pumped the brake pedal for like 2 minutes. After it made it all the way to the floor it eventually came back to where it should be and appeared to work just fine. I drove the car without any problems with the brakes for the rest of the day. My question is should I get the brakes checked out again, or is there something specific I should have them check so I don't have to worry about the brakes next time it freezes.
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I have Subaru B9 Tribeca 2006. Week ago started the following problems - after starting up, engine is shaking (rough idle) for a few (20-30) seconds and then it's OK. Then I got Check Engine, Cruise and ABS lights on. Diagnose shows mistake in 1st cylinder. changed spark plug, air filter, checked all connections, cleaned injector and throttle. Lights went out and engine was working as new. but the second day car had rough idle again....
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OK..so I had the dreaded "Digitizer stopped responding" issue with my Nav screen. I took it apart to repair and now, screen is all white...also the digitizer cracked.
I used to be an electronic tech for many years and fixed many PCBs in the past, but somehow a small transformer on the PCB that drives the LCD panel broke. It is un-repairable as it is surface mounted and I wouldn't even know where to get the part. Also, I was chipping away the glass to get at the traces under the edge of the digitizer and the glass cracked.
Anyway; here is my question. Does the driver PCB, LCD panel and Digitizer are the same on the Nav and Non Nav units? All I need to repair the screen are those three parts. I have seen the non-Nav units much cheaper than the Nav units. Even if I can get a used one, at least I can get the screen to work again in my wife's car.
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My car 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 litre's throttle pedal stopped responding and the check engine light turned on I scanned the codes came back bad TPS and Pedal Position Sensor so I changed both disconnected the positive battery terminal but still no throughout pedal response and I'm getting P2106, P1295, P0638 and pending codes P0222 and P2135. I'm at a complete loss as to what to do.
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I'm finding the nav. system on my o7 limited tribeca hard to use. First of all, I can't figure out how to turn it off. It seems to always require a destination, and the only thing I can do to avoid it binging and trying to redirect me is to turn the sound off. Any way to tell the computer "I don't need direction to this trip"? Also the only time I've tried to use it, thr route it took me on used only surface streets, even though the freeway and a tollroad were nearby and I had entered "allow tollroads".
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Since dec 31 my Nav screen goes black while driving, they only way i can bring it back is by shuting down and restarting the engine. But keeps doing it. Took it to deal they said they rebooted whole navi system but still doing it.
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Just Bought an 05 Passat 1.8T about month ago. It has 80k miles on it. I was driving down a road going about 40 mph and all of the sudden the engine is not responding to the pressing of the accelerator, everything else was normal. So I coast into a nearby parking lot. Car won't start, all lights come on and but would not turnover. Got it towed, few days go by, now car turns over but immediately dies.
No codes read on it. The dealership will not cover a diagnostic or anything fuel related.
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I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
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I purchased a certified automatic 2013 Mini Cooper a week ago. After a total of 254 miles driven off the lot, the accelerator quit responding in the middle of an intersection. I was attempting to make a left turn. Only the accelerator quit functioning, everything else seemed ok. The engine didn't even rev when the pedal was pushed to the floor. I was pushed out of the intersection and shut off the car. When I restarted it the gas pedal was operational. No codes presented, and the dealership couldn't detect codes on their equipment. They sent the info to the MINI technical department (their engineering team) who said it was a software issue. The service rep who passed this on to me said that the Techs data showed there was an "error" which caused the failure, they could verify that using the data, and that a software update would be done to correct the problem. However, the MINI service department will only document on the paperwork that an update was done, they will not document the error in writing. Seem weird? I have serious doubts about this car in our brief history together.
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2008 Subaru trebeca suv with only 62000 miles, when going up a slight incline in drive you feel quite a shudder like you were driving over small bumps on the road. This is my daughters vehicle so she phoned about 400 miles from were I live & told me what I said above. I told her it sounds to me like the torque converter is not unlocking. And if it is the converter not unlocking would that be a very expensive repair ?
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I have a 2001 Honda Civic with 190K miles. Usually runs fine. The other day it was torrential downpours as I'm driving on the highway. After about 100 miles of rainy driving, I lost the ability to accelerate. All accessories still on, but no response from the gas pedal. At the same moment, the check engine light came on, then -- while coasting off an exit ramp -- the car made a loud squealing noise for about 10 seconds.
I turned the car off, and was able to restart it without problems, although the engine was idling strangely with a faint knocking/fluttering noise. Drove to a Sears where they ran diagnostics on the engine -- the only code that came up was that the TDC Sensor was picking up noise. But the car ran, so we kept driving and the check engine light shut off on its own.
Managed to drive 2 hours to our destination, but had one incident of squealing from the engine (about 10 seconds while slowing down and then speeding up), and lost ability to accelerate again, this time accompanied by the Battery Light coming on as well as the Check Engine.
Today the car is in the shop, with Check Engine light off again but Battery Light still on. Mechanic suggested it might be the Alternator, but that seems odd to me because we just replaced the alternator, battery about 5 months ago and all accessories worked fine when we lost ability to accelerate, and the car was able to restart.
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Here are the facts about my problem:
- 1996 Park Avenue 3.8 V-6
- 104,000 miles
Problem: When it warms up it begins to hesitate (at all speeds) when the accellerator is pushed s-l-o-w-l-y. It bucks and acts like it is kicking in and out. A typical example is rolling down a flat stretch of road at 65 mph with the cruise on. Here comes a small hill. As the vehicle begins going up the hill the cruise automatically tries to accellerate the engine to compensate for the hill. It begins to buck hard. I put my foot on the accellerator and can accellerate through the bucking and it smooths out. A few more facts.
- Problem ONLY happens when it warms up. Typicall this may be as much as 10 miles down the road.
- When it gets fully warm it will hesitate taking off from a stop light. Again, just small short hesitations. Even putting your foot into the accellerator it will not totally smooth it out.
- I have replaced all of the ignition coils, and the ignition module below the coils.
- One other very strange deal. When it was screwing up on me really bad and I was replacing the coils and the modules, I revved it up out of frustration. When I got to 4,000 rmp it began to cycle in and out. Almost like a 'whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa whaaa and won't go beyond 4,000 rpm.
- The diagnostic guy at Autozone told me it may be the a MAP sensor, the throttle body sensor and my uncle suggested the crank sensor.
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I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
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Yesterday I noticed my nav screen stopped responding but partially. It'll let me press buttons on left side but not right side. Unfortunately the "I agree" is on right side so I can't even get passed that screen. I don't use the nav but I'd rather have the map showing then "Caution...."
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I have a 2010 (IV) and the screen stopped responding to touch, I looked it up and seems like a common issue in the 2010.
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I have a 2004 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 192,000 miles that runs great. The issue I have though is the electrical system is going haywire (no pun intended). The front A/C and heater stopped responding to the level knob, therefore doesn’t blow, the dash lights will periodically dim and go off, the horn doesn't work when I want it to, and the A/C would sometimes blow warm air when it did work. The A/C used to work on all levels of the dial, and then over time, level by level, they stopped working; however, the back blower works well on both A/C and heater, which is operated by the overhead control knob. I open the front vents to allow outside air in, rather than recirculated air, and the air coming out of the vents is A/C air, but it only blows when I'm driving of course.
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So, I had heard this was happening frequently and now my navigation screen has stopped responding to touch inputs.
It looks like my Lexus platinum extended warranty has paid it's self off!
For those that have had the entire central control module replaced by Lexus with (I assume a refurbished/manufactured) one, have they held up? Are the repaired units anymore robust than the originals?
My car is an 2008, has the weak connections to the touch screen been addressed in the later vehicle builds?
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Left for work yesterday AM on a "dark and stormy" morning. About 1/2 mile down the road lost my accelerator. Engine was running fine, but pushing pedal did nothing. Engine check light "ON". Opened hood and found a small mouse nest on top of throttle body. Came back after work. Looked for chewed cables, none found. Car started up and accelerator worked, drove home, hooked up code reader, P0138: downstream O2 sensor, high voltage. What could it be?Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor?
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I brought my car to a dealership for its 120,000mi check-up, and they told me that the front axle boots were torn. They replaced the right axle, and on the ride home, I noticed a burning smell. Short story is four return trips, and the right axle replaced three times (including the initial replacement), and the smell has finally gone away. The weird part is not that I went back to the same place four times instead of giving up, it's that they told me this last time that they moved the replacement #2 right axle to the left when they installed replacement #3.
Why would they do that? Why would the smell go away if the issue was with that axle? I looked it up, and the same part is used on the driver's side and passenger side, so it wasn't as though they installed a left axle on the right the first two times. Does this mean the "new" axles were just new-to-me and had been reconditioned? If reconditioned, would it matter if a previously left axle was mounted on the right?
Meanwhile, about six weeks after replacement #2, the car started making a thumping noise when the accelerator was depressed at a speed over 35mph (but not when coasting above 35mph or with the gas on below 30-35). I was wondering if it was misfiring or something, but lo and behold! That noise went away with the axle switching. Way back at replacement #1, they replaced the boot on the left but not the entire axle until #3.
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