Subaru - Tribeca :: 2006 - Suddenly Had No Brakes?
Oct 12, 2011
I recently purchased a B9 Tribeca I had it completely checked out, brakes, engine everything. Everyone told me it was fine, this past Friday/Saturday was our first freeze and snow. I went to get into the car around noon, so it had warmed up to maybe 40 by then, and I put my foot on the brake pedal and it didn't feel right at all. Thinking I was imagining things I put it into reverse and took off the emergency brake, and realized rather quickly I had no brakes. quickly put it back into park and popped the hood. My brake fluid was full (right below the max line), I let the car sit there and pumped the brake pedal for like 2 minutes. After it made it all the way to the floor it eventually came back to where it should be and appeared to work just fine. I drove the car without any problems with the brakes for the rest of the day. My question is should I get the brakes checked out again, or is there something specific I should have them check so I don't have to worry about the brakes next time it freezes.
View 5 Replies
Advertisement
We have a 2006 B9 Tribeca we purchased used in April. We have had no problems until September when the "puddle lamps" (small lamps under the doors) shorted out and made smoke go into the cabin of the car. Called Subaru dealer and found out there was a recall notice for this problem.Made an appt. and problem was fixed. Now...in the last two weeks though, there have been a dozen instances where the car will not start.It will crank over two/three times and quit. It never fires up and runs.I never know how many times I have to do this before it WILL start. Right now,it has not started since last night. Side note....there is now a strange noise coming from the heater fan box as well. Second side note.When I turn the key to start it,the "Info Center" display dims.
View 1 Replies
I own a 2006 Subaru Tribeca with 125,000 miles. It has been well maintained and a great vehicle. On a recent long distance trip, after driving about 7 hours, going 70mph, the car started to buck and the accelerator stopped responding. It continued to lose speed as I pulled off the side of the highway. I turned the car off and restarted it and attempted to drive it but it wouldn't go over 10-15 mph. I didn't have any check engine lights. Called AAA and had the car towed 4 hours to our final destination. The mechanic has had the car for 4 days and can not find the cause of the event. I have a 22 hour drive back home in a month and I am extremely concerned. Did some research and have found others have had the problem but had codes come up. Research says it could be throttle pedal position sensor/ pedal assembly.
View 12 Replies
I have Subaru B9 Tribeca 2006. Week ago started the following problems - after starting up, engine is shaking (rough idle) for a few (20-30) seconds and then it's OK. Then I got Check Engine, Cruise and ABS lights on. Diagnose shows mistake in 1st cylinder. changed spark plug, air filter, checked all connections, cleaned injector and throttle. Lights went out and engine was working as new. but the second day car had rough idle again....
View 1 Replies
I'm finding the nav. system on my o7 limited tribeca hard to use. First of all, I can't figure out how to turn it off. It seems to always require a destination, and the only thing I can do to avoid it binging and trying to redirect me is to turn the sound off. Any way to tell the computer "I don't need direction to this trip"? Also the only time I've tried to use it, thr route it took me on used only surface streets, even though the freeway and a tollroad were nearby and I had entered "allow tollroads".
View 30 Replies
Since dec 31 my Nav screen goes black while driving, they only way i can bring it back is by shuting down and restarting the engine. But keeps doing it. Took it to deal they said they rebooted whole navi system but still doing it.
View 13 Replies
I change my own pads as a good lifetime warranty with free replacement from Autozone is great!
But with the Tribeca... I changed the front rotors just like all my other cars over the years.. and now there is pretty severe pulsation when trying to brake... I've checked the rotors and pad replacement twice now and all looks perfect.
I searched this pulsation issue and saw on a Jaquar site that you can ruin the ABS on some cars when you don't drain excess fluid as you push the piston back to install then new thicker pads..
Is this an issue for B9? I don't see it anywhere... I'm ready to bring it in the shop.. the pulsation ONLY happens when braking and gets more severe when stopping from progressively higher speeds...
View 3 Replies
2008 Subaru trebeca suv with only 62000 miles, when going up a slight incline in drive you feel quite a shudder like you were driving over small bumps on the road. This is my daughters vehicle so she phoned about 400 miles from were I live & told me what I said above. I told her it sounds to me like the torque converter is not unlocking. And if it is the converter not unlocking would that be a very expensive repair ?
View 1 Replies
I've got a 2006 B9 with about 64,000 miles. Just a bit ago my check engine and ABS light came on, along with my cruise light flashing.
After researching a little bit on the forums and couldn't find an answer, I took it into the dealer, to which I was told that there was a bad oil pressure sensor for the right-hand side of the motor. I had them replace it out, and less than 20 miles down the road, the same lights appeared on my instrument cluster, and I took it back to the dealer. They informed me that there was now a bad sensor on the left hand side that would be another $380. I scheduled an appointment for later next week, and had them reset the error.
On the same day, about 2 hours later the lights reappeared on my dash, and I took the car over to a local parts store, where I used their scanner and the car now spit the following errors:
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 1 timing over advan.
Camshaft position actuator A - Bank 2 timing over advan
Cam/crankshaft pos. correlation sensor A - Bank 2
Cam/crankshaft pos. Correlation sensor A - Bank 1
Camshaft position actuator A bank 1 timing over - advan
Camshaft position adctuator A bank 2 timing over -advan
Cam/crankshaft pos correlation sensor A - bank 1
I reset the codes, and waited another day for the lights to reappear on the dash. Again, I rescanned the errors, and found the same top 5 codes that I listed above.
Is there something more major going on here with the computer?
View 5 Replies
I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 115K miles. It's been well-maintained and well-loved.
For the past few months, the brakes have been inconsistently making a dragging/grinding noise when coming to a stop at low speeds (<5mph). It sounds to be coming from the front half of the car - I can feel it vibrating a little near the driver side. We've taken the car in to be looked at three times - each time, the mechanics think they've heard the noise and report there is absolutely nothing wrong with the brake pads or rotors. Twice they reported a shim was out of alignment. After the last shim adjustment, the noise got a little better - instead of grinding, it's more of a dragging sound now. Because the noise is inconsistent, I haven't been able to crack the formula of the conditions that produce it, other than that it only happens as I'm coming to a stop at very low speeds.
Is there something besides the brakes we should be having inspected? Does this sound safe to drive?
View 10 Replies
I have a 2011 Subaru Outback with 40000 miles. For the third time since I've had it (6 months), the engine suddenly gets very loud at highway speeds while I am on cruise control. The RPMs go up about 500 and this lasts for a few minutes before going away. What is going on?
View 9 Replies
Today I had a flat tire. Noticed because the warning light was on. Fixed flat. Tire pressure light is off. Now the brake light is blinking. The cruise indicator is blinking. The skid control light is on and the check engine light is on.
View 3 Replies
I have a 96 outback which all of a sudden has no awd. The rear differential looks as though it has leaked some. I don't know if it has a bad axle, or if this loss of fluid is the culprit..... Where to start?
View 4 Replies
My AWD 1996 Subaru Legacy Station Wagon suddenly loses power while I'm driving......
View 3 Replies
My car suddenly make a screeching noise and just died on the road. It sounded like I drove over some garbage thrown on the road, like a cardboard box or something. I have a 2003 Subaru Forester with 147010 miles. I have had it for one and half years. The seller had the transmission job done two years ago. It has a new water pump, spark plugs, tune up. The only thing that is not working is my driver side window. I was going to get it replaced this weekend.
I am not sure what happened. I am up to date on oil change, maintenance, and all the essentials. The car engine seemed slightly loud when I started it this after noon. I went to the grocer store, turned the A/c on and was on my way home. I was driving on the main road and the car stalled. I checked and made sure the fluids are full, Tried to start the car to drive it out of the main road, no luck. The police officer felt that it is a hazard to wait for the toe truck on the main road, hence ordered her tow truck.
The car is in my parking lot now. When i tried to start it, the check engine and the battery lights are on and the engine is making a hell of scratchy noise and the engine seems to be accelerating on its own.
I love my car and do take a good care of.Could not reach the mechanic due to the long weekend. Will tow it to the garage on Tuesday. I want to know what exactly do you think has happened. All I can say is we are going through a heat wave in CT. I park the car outside in the parking lot.
View 19 Replies
So I'm driving along with everything fine till I pull into a neighbors driveway to drop off some stuff. As I pull in, the check engine light suddenly comes on and the cruise control light starts blinking. As I have a scangauge II always connected, I put the car in park and check the code. It comes up as P0000. I get on my Droid III and google it - all I see is "null code" so I clear the codes and everything is fine. I figure "that's odd, but whatever". I drive home (about 1000 feet) and park and shut the car off and go inside to mull this over.
I go back out to check out the scangauge again and it requires starting the car to read out the codes. The car won't start. The battery is fine, and in fact it does the "rurrr rurrr rurr" strongly for 10 times before I figure it's not starting. I wait about 30 seconds and try again - same thing. I wait about an hour or two and try again and it starts this time right away, but then stalls right away. Start again and manually give it some gas and it keeps idling weakly. I'm able to back out and drive a short distance and come back without a stall. I let it sit for the weekend (no shops open anyway) and start it monday morning with my AAA card out... and it starts fine and runs fine all day. I basically forget about it.
About a week and a half later, I'm driving along a country highway at 55 Mph, and the same thing happens. Check engine light, cruise control light blinking and the cruise actually cuts out so I'm losing speed suddenly. I run the scangauge again and same code. The car keeps running fine though, I'm able to drive it back (w/out cruise control) the 5 miles home. Nothing out of the ordinary.
I go inside and google this some more, and there's some posts about the Scangauge causing this - but I've been using it for about 4 years w/out this happening. That said, about 2 months ago, there was a recall, and they flashed the ECU with some update so maybe that changed something, but still - worked for months before this happened. I had to get to work etc so I just cleared the code again, and so far 3 days without a recurrence. Currently I'm thinking about waiting to see if it happens again and going to Autozone and have them read the code to see if it really is the Scangauge not reading the code right or whatever...
View 3 Replies
The brakes on my 2007 Toyota Sienna suddenly went soft. The mechanic first replaced the rear pads, which needed to be done anyway, and when that didn't fix the problem he replaced the master cylinder. The brakes are still very soft. He has bled the system several times to get rid of possible air in the line, but that hasn't fixed the problem.
View 5 Replies
My son has a 1985 lebaron and the brakes just suddenly stopped working. He has replaced the pads, rotors, calipers and bled the system but when you push the brake pedal it goes to the floor. the mechanic where is works is stumped - been like this for three days and they can't figure out what the problem is.
View 6 Replies
I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
View 6 Replies
Feels like I can almost put my foot to the floor. From where it engages to where there's strong resistance is 2 or 3 inches. Seems strange, what do you think?
View 19 Replies
Caller had a problem with his car wobbling or vibrating while he was braking. The conclusion was that the rotors were warped. A quick google search would confirm that this is the most probable source of the wobble, but I'm not sure if it is correct for my problem:
I drive a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX. For quite a while not the steering and what feels like the whole car wobbles or vibrates when I brake. This is imperceptible at speeds under around 45 mph, but at high speeds it is VERY noticeable. It seems especially bad if I am going around 70 mph and lightly applying the brakes. The wobble does not happen unless the breaks are applied. So, warped rotors right? So I decided to check them and see if they are warped. I took both wheels, calipers, and rotors off my car and inspected the rotors.
My initial impression is that they looked as good as when I bought them. Of course an eye-ball diagnosis would not sufficiently answer my question so what I did was compare one rotor to the other. I put them together rotor on rotor to see if I could find any variation in shape. I figured that if one rotor was flat, while the other was warped, it would be noticeable. If both were warped, than the difference should be exaggerated. I did this multiple times to make sure I wasn't missing any warp or distortion. So as far as I can tell, they aren't warped. Another thing that I noticed, however was the brake pads. They were in good shape for the most part, but the corners/ends seems to be worn of at an angle about a quarter inch from the edge. I reassembled everything and when I drove the car, the wobble was gone. Now after about 15 minutes, the wobble returned.
Here are my Questions: Is my method of figuring out whether the rotor is warped reasonable? am i missing something?Why would the edges of the brake pads be worn down that drastically?Could the wobble come from something else? Struts? wheel bearings? bent wheel? If so, how can I diagnose/test which one it is?
View 10 Replies
