Subaru - Outback :: Remote Lock Beeping At Random
Jul 2, 2011
This has never happened while I'm driving the car, but when it is parked and the engine is off, the remote lock beep (the single beep which signifies the car is locked) is going off. Not often, for awhile I only noticed it at night and frankly thought the cat was walking over my wife's purse and setting the dang thing off... but no. I was just in the kitchen, both sets of keys on the counter next to me as I put away dishes and the beep went off. Nothing and no one touched the keys. Is this a sign the remote lock is dying?
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The dear wife crashed our 2004 Prius, crumpling the entire bumper and left front side. The body shop has fixed everything nicely, with one small exception. There is no longer the reassuring beep(s) when using the fob to remotely lock or unlock the doors. The lights flash, as before, and the panic alarm still works.
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I recently had my wheel hub and bearing replaced. The mechanic said I might hear a little noise with the brakes but they'd work. Turns out that noise is the Anti-lock braking system engaging every time I use the brakes. It happens when the car speed gets low, maybe 5-15 mph. Also, if I'm driving slow in a parking lot or something, and let off the gas, that change in speed sets the ABS system on too, without my foot being on the brake pedal.
I've also noticed sometimes when the weather is very cold, the ABS light will go on and the ABS brakes won't work; just regular brakes. Is this something that I'd be able to solve at home? Could I possibly bleed the brake lines to check for any air ( although braking seems fine ) , busted fuse for the system, anything else to check before asking the mechanic?
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester past warranty. I remove the key from the ignition switch and open the door I get the chime and the doors will not lock with the remote. If I pull the key out rapidly it usually works okay. The Subaru garage wants to replace all locks to fix the problem. That seems excessive to me.
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So once in awhile, after I park my car, turn it off, then open my door, the inside of the car would beep, as if I were to leave with the lights still on, except my lights are off. On the MID screen, there are no error messages.
Sometimes it's one long beep (about 1.5 seconds)
Occasionally it will be just repeating short beeps.
Doesn't happen all the time, just once in awhile.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty with the V10 engine. I purchased it when it was @111k miles. When I got it the passenger side lock did not always work and after time they both stopped. I have ready the post on how to repair them for little or no money that is not my question. My question Is there a way that I can tell if the truck had a remote for the locks when it was new and if not could I put it in the truck? Yes my wife likes that I unlock her door first but a remote would be nice when it is raining.
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I have a 2010 Prius with about 51,000 miles on it. About a month ago the front passenger lock actuator began failing and wouldn't lock/unlock with the remote. I had to manually slide the lock shut before I exited the car or it would keep beeping when I pressed the lock button on the remote.
Well, now the driver's side door is doing the same thing. When I touch the front door handle (to unlock the doors) it beeps like 8 times while it tries to unlock all four doors. I have to open the back drivers-side door and manually unlock the front door so I can drive the car.
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So when leaving the gym tonight, I go to unlock my car with the remote and it beeps, but nothing unlocks......everything is clicking like it's unlocking (doors, gas cap, etc) but it won't unlock. So I press and hold the unlock button to roll down my windows, reach in, open the door from the inside and it opens, starts and everything works.
Can this be from my rear bumper getting hit the other day (would the rear bumper sensor getting damaged have anything to do with this)?
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I've never had an issue with my 2010 Prius except for an occasional need to jump the battery after leaving a light on. Today after finding I left the interior light on, the car wouldn't start. I assumed the battery had drained, but then something strange happened. The car would not fully shut off. The starter button shows a red light and there is a loud continuous beeping sound even when the door is closed. Additonally, the car will not lock. When I foreceably locked the doors, they unlock right away. The yellow exclamation point warning light on the left side of the dash is on as is the malfunction indicator light that looks like an engine.
I tried to jump the 12volt battery through the charging port under the hood and got absolutely no response at all. And the continuous high pitched beep is still going after an hour.
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I know there is an Option to adjust the beeping sound when Lock or Unlock Doors (I tried that already). But Is that possible to make the Beeping sound really loud..I mean loud like honking the Horn. Know what I'm talking about?
On the 2001 Nissan Xterra, when I Lock the door ..sound like the horn.
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My 2000 outback wagon has only 67k miles. About a month ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to an Auto Zone and although unfortunately I didn't write down the code, the person who checked the car seemed to think it was probably just a bad tank of gas. I ran through that tank of gas and filled up with premium gas. Light didn't go off until THAT tank was near empty. Filled up a third time and light remained off until tank was near empty and it came on again. It has not yet gone off. I'm not sure how many more tanks of gas I should run through! The car isn't running poorly so I thought the bad gas was a good explanation.
A side note: about 6 months ago I had to have the head gasket replaced. I argued with Subaru and got some extra work done in exchange for the head gasket payment since my car missed the recall by a few digits but I was obviously stuck with an inferior product. I'm hoping they didn't do an inferior job. Even though it was 6 months ago, it wasn't that many miles ago - you can see my the year/mileage on my car that I don't drive a lot. Does that gas explanation sound reasonable? Anything about a head gasket related?
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Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
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my car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
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Our 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R, which we bought brand new back in Feb ’11 and only has 4k miles, seems to be having issues with the cooling fan. The cooling fan will come on when the engine is cold and it will stay on the entire time the engine is running. I’ve read that the cooling fan will run the whole time when either the A/C is on or the vent control is set to defrost, regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot. In my case, the cooling fan comes on when the engine is cold, even with the HVAC off and it will remain running at full speed when the engine is running, again with the HVAC off.
Every time I go to start the car after it has been sitting for an entire day and the engine is cold, when I turn the key to the “On” position, before the engine is even started, the cooling fan comes on. How is this possible when the engine isn’t even running and the engine is cold. Again, the HVAC is off. Once the car is started, the cooling fan will remain on until the car is shut off. The fan is running as such a high speed you can hear it over the noise of the idling engine. Once I turn the car off the fan shuts off.
Since we’ve owned the car there were two other issues First, the transmission pan gasket wasn’t properly installed and it was leaking transmission fluid. That issue was fixed and is good now. The second issue was that oil was leaking from the timing chain cover. It turns out that the timing chain cover gasket was also improperly installed. This too was fixed, and doesn’t seem to be a problem anymore.
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I purchases a 2012 Subaru Outback i2.5 Premium in January. The car has been stalling out after getting gas; I've put gas in it about 10 times, and it's stalled out or nearly stalled out after 4 or 5 of those times. The first time it happened I had to have the car towed back to the dealer. At the time, they thought it was bad gas, but the repetition of the problem has them stumped. There are no warning lights or error codes. I have had the car back to the dealer on four occasions, and unfortunately they can't replicate, find, or correct the problem. Now Subaru is involved. The car also runs rough and shifts rough, compared to the identical 2012 Outback I was given as a loaner the last time I had it in.
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Where the heck is the gas cap release. Just bought it to get back home as the jeep needs broken motor mount fixed and had to leave it in town. The subaru is pretty beat up so the gas cap release could be hiding (as in handle gone) ?
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I own a 2002 Outback. It is overheating. We have replaced hoses, thermostat, water pump, the temp sensor, had the radiator tested. Nothing has changed our problem. My husband is at a loss and the mechanic who has is now has no clue as to what else it could be. The mechanic is referring to it as a ghost problem.
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I have a 2001 Subaru Outback with the 5 speed manual transmission. About 6 months ago the clutch went out and we had it replaced. We did not go to a professional shop and instead used a friend of my father-in-law who used to be a mechanic. Last weekend I drove the car on the beach to go fishing and got the car stuck in the sand.
After 2 attempts to get unstuck the clutch started smoking and blew out. I only attempted to get unstuck 2 times and was not "rallying" the engine hard. I realized I was good and stuck and stopped because I didn't want to spin the tires and dig myself so deep I couldn't get towed out.
My question is this; what are the chances that a brand new clutch would blow after 6 months? The car is used mainly to drive on paved roads to and from work and the grocery store. Both my wife and I have driven manual transmission cars for years and we don't ride the clutch. It goes through the usual wear and tear of everyday driving and yet, one incident that requires a little beef from the clutch and it blows?
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I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback (automatic) that has 176,779miles on it. I live in San Francisco and only drive the car occasionally every 2-3 weekends out of the city. Recently within the past month I have noticed that after turning on my car and once it is in drive for the first 10-15 minutes it has a hard time getting past 20 mph. When I put the foot on the accelerator to go past 20mph the rpm goes way up to 4, 5 or 6. Once it gets past this then car is smooth and I have no problems. This problem seems to go away within 10-15 minutes of driving or if I turn my car off and then on again it seems to go away. I called my mechanic and they said it could be that the transmission fluid is low. I checked the level and it is perfectly normal.
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I am about to buy a 2003 Subaru Legacy Outback Sedan H6-3.0. When it gets up to about 40-45mph it begins a low hum or moan and gets louder as it goes faster. At freeway cruising speed the whole car is moaning with what I would describe as a mild vibration. My first inclination is to think it is a wheel bearing issue.My wife thinks it might be a tire issue. She said she remembers the friend that we might buy it from saying that she had replaced two of the tires on it. I know that on all wheel drive vehicles you have to replace all 4 tires at the same time. Could that cause a sound like this? If so how long might it take to cause damage to the drive system with different size tires?
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