Subaru - Outback :: Keyless Entry And Push Button Start - Battery Dying Overnight
Jun 30, 2016
So my daughter has a Subaru Outback with keyless entry and push button start, and her battery kept dying overnight. It turns out that she was keeping her second key fob within 10 feet of the car, so the car's electrical system was kept on all night (sensing that she was approaching the car) running the battery down. The lesson learned (the hard way) was to keep your key fobs far enough away from the car so the electrical system is not constantly energized.
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All of the sudden the remote to my 2009 Subaru Outback stopped working. The car doesn't respond at all. I mentioned this when I had the car in for service and they tested my remote. They detected a signal that it was sending out so that means something is wrong on the car side and the remote appears to be functioning fine. Unfortunately I only have 1 remote (bought the car used). I didn't have them look any further into it because they admitted that they had no idea what the problem could be and it would take time to investigate. What the problem could be?
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All of the sudden the remote to my 2009 Subaru Outback stopped working. The car doesn't respond at all. I mentioned this when I had the car in for service and they tested my remote. They detected a signal that it was sending out so that means something is wrong on the car side and the remote appears to be functioning fine. Unfortunately I only have 1 remote (bought the car used). I didn't have them look any further into it because they admitted that they don't know what the problem could be and it would take time to investigate.
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I have a 2013 RLine 4mo and I'm still trying to figure out why I don't have keyless entry and push start since it seems like other trims have it.
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My battery has been dying intermittently. Twice after a week long vacation I have come home to a dead battery. No lights were on in the car and no clear source of a leak. It charged up but would die again after 12 to 24 hours of sitting in the driveway. After the 1st episode mechanics said the alternator and all voltage testing was normal so they just replaced the battery. After the 2nd incident I took my car to a new mechanic and they are saying again the alternator is fine but noticed the battery is shorting (alternator output amperage too high and voltage too low - they put in the shop battery and all returned to normal) and they say I need ANOTHER new battery. I have a hard time believing this but no one can figure out why my car battery keeps dying????
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I noticed today that the red (panic) button cover is lost from my keyless entry (silver Toyota logo) Gen II 2008 remote.
What I basically need is a broken remote, essentially just that red rubber cover.
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I have a 2006 Lexus GS 300 and I have had the car for almost two years now. I have noticed that when I use my keyless entry button to unlock and lock the car, its not as loud as it was in the past. My key fobs all have new batteries in them (2 kays for the car). Could this mean that I need a battery soon? When I first got the car, the "beep beep" noise from when you lock and unlock the car was louder, now you can barely hear it.
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I have got a new 4 button key fob for my 05 F350. How to program this unit for the keyless entry and the remote starter.
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I started the car with keyless push button and almost immediately moved the gearshift selector from Park P to Drive D. I drove like this for several miles on traffic-congested surface streets. The Phaeton felt as if I was on 2nd gear. Upon stopping, and moving gearshift selector to P, Phaeton would not turn off engine by hitting the keyless push button Start/Stop. I had to plug in the key (had not done that in a long time!) and twist it counterclockwise to kill the engine. Upon rebooting the car (used to be called re-starting the engine, I guess), everything went back to normal.
Photo of screwed-up transmission indicator : [URL] ....
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My Subaru 2000 Outback is dying occasionally when I come to a stop. It will stutter and die. I can restart it and everything is fine. It does not happen everytime, but happens more when I come to stop quickly, less when I come to a gradual stop. What is this?
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I can do all the basic car maintenance but this has me perplexed and a little frightened ...
My dependable 2001 Subaru outback has been dying after I start it up for the last couple of days. The build up to this was that the headlights have been flickering ever since I changed the fan belt a few weeks ago.
Whats strange is that the car will turn on and run fine until I turn the radio or air conditioner on. A few minutes after doing so I'll hear the weird ambient droning moaning sound start to build up in the speakers of the car - then the odometer starts to go haywire and the car will die if idling.
When I try to start it up again afterward the battery comes on fine but it wont turn over. I don't notice a clicking sound like a starter would indicate but rather an electric-ish sounding hiss. The next day it will start up again. And for what its worth the headlights no longer flicker.
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1999 Toyota 4 Runner's keyless entry (with new battery) will not unlock the car. The "lock" button works fine. Using the manual key for entry triggers the theft alarm. The only way to stop the alarm is by using the unlock button on the remote, which as stated, is not working. It does not make sense to me that I cannot use the standard key to enter the vehicle. In essence, I am locked out of my own car.
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The other day it was a cold morning so I went out and started the engine to warm it up, heat the seats and clear the windows. I was on the train this particular day so the wife was going to drop me at the station, dropping the kids at the bus stop on the way.
We got as far as the bus and no further as darling wife hadn't picked up a key so following the stop we could neither start the car nor lock it. Fortunately the crisis was averted as miraculously a friend passed by soon after and ran me home for the key so I made my train, just.
Moral of the story is if you start the car with Keyless start always leave a key somewhere in the car.....
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I have a 2007 Prius with keyless entry and start fob. My battery went dead, got a jump, took it to Toyota dealer. They checked my battery and they said it is a good one just recharged for me. Then when I tried to start my car without inserting the key, it would not work. I asked the service person and he said I would have to come back and pay $110.00 for them to reprogram. Can I do this myself? It was working before my battery went dead. This happened once before but did not lose the keyless function.
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I bought the car brand new in May of 2009. All was good until February of last year when the battery died. I kind of wrote it off as one of those things that's part of life in AK. But then the same thing happened in November - yes, it was cold again, but it died after I'd successfully started it and drove it to my husband's work. He was inside for maybe thirty minutes. Not wanting to waste gas, it turned the car off and listened to the radio. When hubby came back, I tried to start the car and ... nothing. We had to get it jumped. Hubby said I shouldn't have been listening to the radio with the engine off. Anyway, I had a service appointment at the dealership a few days later and mentioned that the battery died again. They checked it and said it was weak so they replaced it.
Now, of course, I'm super-paranoid about everything that could be draining the battery. I turn the lights off whenever I turn off the engine (even though that's supposed to be something the car does automatically), and only listen to the radio when I'm driving. I've made sure that there's nothing plugged in any of the power outlets, and I don't have anything that's aftermarket. Oh, and middle of last year the radio/CD player died too, and that had to be replaced. Don't know if it's linked, but it's still odd.
The only advice the dealership had was to drive it more. I guess I'm pretty severe on the car - work's maybe a fifteen minute drive (20 if it's snowing) and a fair few of my journeys are short ones, for a variety of reasons. Plus, it's Anchorage, AK. Severe driving's standard here. But I never had these issues with my other cars, and my driving patterns haven't changed at all. Could there be something that's draining the battery that I haven't thought of, or am I really stuck with driving around Anchorage aimlessly for at least 20 minutes each time I get in the car?
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I was out of town for about a week. I drive a 2008 Prius with about 35k miles and no previous issues. I get back tonight and go to open the door with keyless entry. Nothing, doors wont open. I hadn't replaced the batteries in the remote since I bought it, so I figured it was just that. I use the key to manually open the doors. I then go to start the car. Nothing. No lights, no noises, literally nothing happens. I figure, perhaps I left a light on while I was away and the 12V battery is drained. It is quite the rare thing, but it has happened a few times in the past. Usually I would catch it the next day and be ok, so maybe a light was on for a week and that did it.
So at this point I assume it's just a dead 12 V battery. I ask my friend to give me a jump. We open the hood, connect up the jumper cables in this order : + Prius, + and - to his battery, then - to the Prius frame. Quite a few sparks fly, which seemed like more than what I was used to seeing, but it doesn't seem too outrageous. I try to start the car and nothing happens. My friend then tells me he accidentally hooked up the jumper cables backwards. (I know now this is bad, and may be the source of the problem but hear the rest of the story to get a complete picture of what's going on).
So we swap them on his battery and try again. I put my foot on the break and push the power button. His car is still running in the background. The power button LED then turns green, and that is it. No noise or anything else. I then (while keeping my foot on the break still), push the power button again. This time the power button LED turns orange, the parking break P LED turns on green and the check engine light on the dash turns on. Also I think the car also makes the normal humming sound we are used to hearing when it turns on. No other lights are on at this point. The main display doesn't come on, nor does the interior lights work, or anything else for that matter.
The only thing functioning from inside are those 3 lights. I turn the car off and we just figure it needs more time to charge. So we give it a few more minutes of charging and still the same thing. We notice a strange thing. We hear a clicking sound coming from the fuse box area of the car. Every 5 seconds or so, it sounds like a relay clicks, and then clicks off after 2 seconds or so, and this continues on. My friends engine sounds as if during those two seconds like it is sending current to my car (lower engine rpm). So it sounds as if the relay sends current somewhere for a few seconds and then no current goes to my car, 5 seconds later it sends current to my car then 2 seconds later no current, etc. This goes on continuously and we are not sure why.
We figure maybe a fuse is blown. My friend checks the fuses we think to check but can't seems to find anything wrong there. We then think maybe the power needs to be disconnected to the electronics to allow capacitors and what not to discharge. So we disconnect the lug from the jumping terminal (the one we connected the + jumper cable under the hood) for about 10 minutes. We reconnect the lug back 10 minutes later and try again. Same things with the lights and buttons pushing as before. The only difference this time is you can get these lights to turn on without having the jumper cables connected (as if some of the battery was charged).
Next we figure, maybe we just need to hook directly to the 12V battery in the "trunk". So we connect to that. Now, instead of having the relay tripping every few seconds we don't hear the relay tripping at all. And the engine rmps are operating constantly as if it is consistently drawing current (constantly lower rmp sounds). So that is different this time than when we connected to the post under the hood. So we continue running the car at high rmps for a few minutes and try again. Still the exact same thing with the lights.
Also during these tests the break pedal seems to put pressure on itself when you hit the power button a second time and the lights turn on. (This is just a detail to include, I'm not sure if there is anything useful to gain from knowing this). Anyway, I know the problem is most likely that everything was fine until my friend accidentally hooked his end of the jumper cables to his battery. But in the event that there is something else I should check.
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As the title states, I have a 05 Sport Trac, just plain Jane. No keyless entry, no remote start, no steering wheel tilt. Just standard. I am wanting to install a Viper 4103 remote start/keyless entry kit to it. I just don't know if I will need any extra parts? I've tried googling and all kinds of stuff but cant find a straight answer. Some sites say I need an immobilizer bypass, some say I don't.
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It's cold and of course when I need it the factory installed key fob doesn't work. I took the car to one of those fancy car accessory stores and they said my alarm was working just fine. The power locks work fine when locking the car from inside the car. Just not using my remote fob. Searching Google I found an article about a similar condition where they said the solenoid was faulty and this was common for my model.
I know little about cars but this sounds expensive. What is a solenoid and why just the car fob. What is the point of having a remote start if you can't use it in 18 degree weather.
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I recently bought a Subaru Legacy 2000. When I first got it it started fine, however when I leave it sit for overnight or up to a week it doesn't like to start. It will click, and eventually anywhere from 5 minutes to a half an hour it will eventually start right up.
I replaced the battery and the connections after talking to a mechanic... And after both of these fixes it started just fine for a few days. But I am suspecting the starter. The only issue is once I have had the car going after the initial trouble it will fire off just fine for the rest of the day. Other than the starter could it be moisture in something? Like I said it only will do this when it sits over night or longer?
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Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
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Santa Fe 2013. I bought it a few months ago and soon after a strange issue appeared from time to time. When I push the start/stop button it spins the engine but it wont start no matter how much I wait. Usually it start fine for the second time. This happens sometimes and sometimes not. About 2 months ago it didn't want to start for about 5-10 minutes no matter what I tried (push the button with the tip of the key), so I decided to go to a service station.
There they connected the car to a computer to check if there were any error codes logged. But they haven't find anything, after the second time I visited the station they replaced the battery in the key, told that maybe that was the problem.
I really don't know much about cars but it was a strange idea as I would expect the same behaviour when the battery is low than when the key is not present: Car not doing anything but displaying a message that the key is not present.
Anyway, it kinda worked, or I was lucky. For more than a month everything was fine, not a single issue. And today morning it started again. I brought my car to a hand washing, and after they cleaned the outside with steam they wanted to park the car inside the building to clean the interior, and the same issue occurred. And after that it happened with me as well several times this day.
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