Subaru - Outback :: 2013 - Gas Tank Malfunction - Stops Fueling Prematurely
Apr 12, 2016
First off, I want to say that we have tried different gas stations, different times of day and ensured that the lines are not kinked in any way. When my husband or I try to fill up our Subaru Outback, it stops very prematurely. Like, a gallon after we have started fueling, and there is less than a quarter tank in the car.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Outback and can't get gas in the tank. The tank acts like it is already full. Any solutions?
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I have a 2004 subaru outback that smells of gas when the tank is filled. The smell persists for a couple of days after the tank is filled. It started in the spring and I brought it to the dealer but they couldn't find anything. It seemed to go away during the summer but now that the colder weather has started the problem has returned.
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My 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R (bought in Feb ’11, and has 4k miles) has already had several issues in its short life. In just the past week I've noticed a sloshing noise coming from the gas tank. I first heard the noise when I was backing out of my driveway. I also notice the sloshing sound whenever I go over a bump or come to a quick stop. To determine where exactly the noise was coming from, I parked the car, turned off the engine and I pushed on the rear bumper to make the car move up and down. After doing this I determined that the noise is definitely coming from the gas tank.
Is it normal to hear gas sloshing around in the gas tank when driving? Could there be something wrong with the gas tank?
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My 2000 Subaru Outback automatic, with 95,000 miles is intermittently stalling. No check engine light, no sputtering, engine temperature & oil pressure fine; it will just be running and then it isn't. It has happened with a 1/4 tank gas and with a full tank of gas. Primarily it has happened after driving around on a hot day, with some highway driving, city driving, running errands- so stopping for a while, then when I head home and gain altitude (another 2000-2500 ft), it will stall when I take my foot off of the accelerator to make a left turn, or go around a blind right curve, but not every time. When it has stalled once, it tends to repeatedly stall when I take my foot off of the gas.
It always starts right back up again with no problem. It happened once in town right after I filled up with gas, but didn't repeatedly stall after that.It has been to my mechanic 3 times and no codes come up with scan. The AF sensor (idle control valve) was replaced twice, throttle body cleaned (although not bad), crank sensor checked, fuel trim checked, wires, battery checked, hoses checked, reprogramming of ECU checked- not needed, no recalls/reflashes, nothing found. I don't want to end up stranded on a lonely mountain road with fires approaching, or getting broadsided when it stalls in a left turn.
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I have a 2013 Outback that has since new chugged and has had a feeling of not going smoothly through the gears up to around 30 mph (mainly around 20-25 mph). Since it occurs intermittently the first two times into the dealer to fix it they found nothing wrong but on the third time back in they found that Subaru sent it out from the factory with 1/2 quart too much tranny fluid. Dealer drained to the proper level but I am still noticing the same symptoms only not as bad as before. Took it back for fourth time and after they drove it for a total of 10 miles and hooked it up to the computer they said they could find nothing wrong. My question is driving it 10,000 miles with 1/2 qt too much tranny fluid going to have caused damage or possible future damage to seals, etc. When I asked the Service Manager that he responded that I had plenty of warranty left.
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I go to get fuel tonight as my wife gets home with "that" look on her face. Car is at a quarter tank. Go to pump put in the nozzle and start pumping. The nozzle stops and I can hear gurgling from the tank. Here is a pic of how much goes in. So I now pull the fuel nozzle out a tad and proceed to keep putting gas in slowly. Here is a shot.
After I do this the car takes more fuel and I continue until I can see the small bubbles. Understand that fuel is not leaking anywhere. Its not coming out of the sides or anything. I am also not filling it up to the point in overflows out. Here is a pic of the total fuel when I am done.
Is this normal? I have to do this every time. I noticed on a 987-S Boxster I had the tank did not vent properly cause the same thing would happen. Trick I would do is rotate the fuel nozzle 180 degrees up and it would fill up completely. I tried doing this on the Lexus and it didn't work.
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I'm 1st time owner of a Subaru. This is an automatic 2013 Outback 2.5i Premium with 9,600 miles.
Last Friday and last night (Sun) when the car was parked with no key in the ignition, there was a continuous sound coming from behind the rear left wheel. It sounded like a fuel pump was on.
To stop it, I put the key in the ignition and turned it until all the lights come on without actually cranking the engine. When the key was removed, the sound stopped. The sound seemed to start a couple hours after I parked the car. Both occurred in the evening and there was less than 1/4 tank of gas in the tank.
Since there are 2 commonalities here, I'll fill up the tank and monitor every 30 min (may not be able to do this when I sleep!). Since it is intermittent, there's not much the local shop could do except to check if there is any Subaru service bulletin.
I am concerned it was draining the battery last night but this morning it started right away.
I don't know if this has been happening without my noticing. So is this normal?
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My outback started giving me intermittent extended crank starting problems on cold engine starts a few months ago. I brought it in first to repair shop and then dealership. Battery replaced, all systems checked out, computer update, camshaft sensor shim, and still I have the problem. What this could be?
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I went to fill up my Santa Fe's tank for the first time and was only able to get about 9 gallons in. The pump shut off when the car only had about 2/3 of the tank full. I let it be, but I really don't want to be dealing with this every week. Have issues put gas in? Any tricks/tips? I do live in California which requires a lot of equipment on the pumps to prevent gas fumes from escaping. I'm not sure if that's contributing to the premature shut-off.
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After pumping for a few seconds the pump stops because it thinks the tank is full. I have been searching for other 2011 Sonata owners with this problem but can't find any. I see it on older cars, something about charcoal pellets, but not on new cars. Could this be charcoal pellets on this car? The car is still new, why would this happen?
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My 2000 outback wagon has only 67k miles. About a month ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to an Auto Zone and although unfortunately I didn't write down the code, the person who checked the car seemed to think it was probably just a bad tank of gas. I ran through that tank of gas and filled up with premium gas. Light didn't go off until THAT tank was near empty. Filled up a third time and light remained off until tank was near empty and it came on again. It has not yet gone off. I'm not sure how many more tanks of gas I should run through! The car isn't running poorly so I thought the bad gas was a good explanation.
A side note: about 6 months ago I had to have the head gasket replaced. I argued with Subaru and got some extra work done in exchange for the head gasket payment since my car missed the recall by a few digits but I was obviously stuck with an inferior product. I'm hoping they didn't do an inferior job. Even though it was 6 months ago, it wasn't that many miles ago - you can see my the year/mileage on my car that I don't drive a lot. Does that gas explanation sound reasonable? Anything about a head gasket related?
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I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
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About a week ago I had my car on a hoist getting new exhaust tips installed. At that time I noticed the rear tires are wearing prematurely on the inner edges. So are the fronts but not nearly as bad as the rears. I asked around and was told that this is normal for the factory Pirellis because of the negative camber built in to our cars. This being the reason the car corners so well. I understand the physics of this and I really like the way the car corners. My question is this---Can the negative camber be taken out of the car thusly reducing wear on the inner edges of the tires?? And how much will this be noticed while driving the car normally, and during spirited driving?? I have noticed that some fellows will purposely mod their cars with increased negative camber on the rear wheels, I'm assuming this is to achieve a certain "look".
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Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
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my car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
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Our 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R, which we bought brand new back in Feb ’11 and only has 4k miles, seems to be having issues with the cooling fan. The cooling fan will come on when the engine is cold and it will stay on the entire time the engine is running. I’ve read that the cooling fan will run the whole time when either the A/C is on or the vent control is set to defrost, regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot. In my case, the cooling fan comes on when the engine is cold, even with the HVAC off and it will remain running at full speed when the engine is running, again with the HVAC off.
Every time I go to start the car after it has been sitting for an entire day and the engine is cold, when I turn the key to the “On” position, before the engine is even started, the cooling fan comes on. How is this possible when the engine isn’t even running and the engine is cold. Again, the HVAC is off. Once the car is started, the cooling fan will remain on until the car is shut off. The fan is running as such a high speed you can hear it over the noise of the idling engine. Once I turn the car off the fan shuts off.
Since we’ve owned the car there were two other issues First, the transmission pan gasket wasn’t properly installed and it was leaking transmission fluid. That issue was fixed and is good now. The second issue was that oil was leaking from the timing chain cover. It turns out that the timing chain cover gasket was also improperly installed. This too was fixed, and doesn’t seem to be a problem anymore.
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I purchases a 2012 Subaru Outback i2.5 Premium in January. The car has been stalling out after getting gas; I've put gas in it about 10 times, and it's stalled out or nearly stalled out after 4 or 5 of those times. The first time it happened I had to have the car towed back to the dealer. At the time, they thought it was bad gas, but the repetition of the problem has them stumped. There are no warning lights or error codes. I have had the car back to the dealer on four occasions, and unfortunately they can't replicate, find, or correct the problem. Now Subaru is involved. The car also runs rough and shifts rough, compared to the identical 2012 Outback I was given as a loaner the last time I had it in.
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Where the heck is the gas cap release. Just bought it to get back home as the jeep needs broken motor mount fixed and had to leave it in town. The subaru is pretty beat up so the gas cap release could be hiding (as in handle gone) ?
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I own a 2002 Outback. It is overheating. We have replaced hoses, thermostat, water pump, the temp sensor, had the radiator tested. Nothing has changed our problem. My husband is at a loss and the mechanic who has is now has no clue as to what else it could be. The mechanic is referring to it as a ghost problem.
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I have a 2001 Subaru Outback with the 5 speed manual transmission. About 6 months ago the clutch went out and we had it replaced. We did not go to a professional shop and instead used a friend of my father-in-law who used to be a mechanic. Last weekend I drove the car on the beach to go fishing and got the car stuck in the sand.
After 2 attempts to get unstuck the clutch started smoking and blew out. I only attempted to get unstuck 2 times and was not "rallying" the engine hard. I realized I was good and stuck and stopped because I didn't want to spin the tires and dig myself so deep I couldn't get towed out.
My question is this; what are the chances that a brand new clutch would blow after 6 months? The car is used mainly to drive on paved roads to and from work and the grocery store. Both my wife and I have driven manual transmission cars for years and we don't ride the clutch. It goes through the usual wear and tear of everyday driving and yet, one incident that requires a little beef from the clutch and it blows?
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