Subaru - Outback :: 2007 - Gas Pedal Intermittently Become Unresponsive / CEL And Cruise Control Light Blinking
Aug 23, 2014
I have a 2007 subaru outback ll bean addition with 67,000 miles. For the past year and a half my gas pedal has intermittently become unresponsive. The engine is running just fine but the check engine light and cruise control light start blinking and boom-no gas. After turning off the engine, the car won't start until the gas pedal has magically started working again. The dash lights continue to blink for several starts but then stop.
Prior to this problem, I have noticed that sometimes the console lights for the radio and AC blink and sometimes go dark at which point the controls are ineffective. As if this wasn't enough, just yesterday when trying to start the car, the engine was having trouble turning over with a rapid clicking noise. It eventually started but now the seat belt buckle alarm is out of whack and the speedometer displays "ER U1."
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So I'm driving along with everything fine till I pull into a neighbors driveway to drop off some stuff. As I pull in, the check engine light suddenly comes on and the cruise control light starts blinking. As I have a scangauge II always connected, I put the car in park and check the code. It comes up as P0000. I get on my Droid III and google it - all I see is "null code" so I clear the codes and everything is fine. I figure "that's odd, but whatever". I drive home (about 1000 feet) and park and shut the car off and go inside to mull this over.
I go back out to check out the scangauge again and it requires starting the car to read out the codes. The car won't start. The battery is fine, and in fact it does the "rurrr rurrr rurr" strongly for 10 times before I figure it's not starting. I wait about 30 seconds and try again - same thing. I wait about an hour or two and try again and it starts this time right away, but then stalls right away. Start again and manually give it some gas and it keeps idling weakly. I'm able to back out and drive a short distance and come back without a stall. I let it sit for the weekend (no shops open anyway) and start it monday morning with my AAA card out... and it starts fine and runs fine all day. I basically forget about it.
About a week and a half later, I'm driving along a country highway at 55 Mph, and the same thing happens. Check engine light, cruise control light blinking and the cruise actually cuts out so I'm losing speed suddenly. I run the scangauge again and same code. The car keeps running fine though, I'm able to drive it back (w/out cruise control) the 5 miles home. Nothing out of the ordinary.
I go inside and google this some more, and there's some posts about the Scangauge causing this - but I've been using it for about 4 years w/out this happening. That said, about 2 months ago, there was a recall, and they flashed the ECU with some update so maybe that changed something, but still - worked for months before this happened. I had to get to work etc so I just cleared the code again, and so far 3 days without a recurrence. Currently I'm thinking about waiting to see if it happens again and going to Autozone and have them read the code to see if it really is the Scangauge not reading the code right or whatever...
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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I have a 2006 2.5 limited turbo outback wagon. Recently the engine light came on not flashing..the cruise control light is flashing. I live in a very remote area over a hour away from a dealer ship..and having problems finding someone with a diagnostic tool..Am I damaging my car by driving it still..I did just prior to the lights coming on filled the tank and after checking the cap I realized I did not tighten it as I should have.
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My 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i - the engine light is on and the cruise control light is blinking. This happened once before and it went away after I recapped the fuel cap. However, this time it did not work. The car is running ok.
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At a bit over 43K miles the check engine light came on with a blinking cruise light. Dealer has confirmed that both secondary injection pumps have failed for reasons unknown. I think this is part of the pollution control system.
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On my 2007 Subaru Forester (100k miles) the CEL light is on and my cruise control light is blinking (cruise control does not work in this condition). Computer scan indicated front O2 sensor failed and my mechanic replaced it. No joy. Computer scan reported 0 data from EGR valve--replaced it. No joy.
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So... I have a 99 Subaru Outback 5 speed that I love the hell out of. Anyway, recently my clutch pedal has started momentarily sticking mid return. The clutch appears to be fully engaged, but the pedal sticks, or hangs for a moment before popping the rest of the way up. Once, and only once so far, it stuck completely just for a moment before returning after being depressed again. I'm not sure how concerned I should be, and given that the car is new to me I'm still trying to familiarize myself with it.
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I bought a 2005 subaru forester xt a cohple months ago and then the CEL went on and the cruise control started blinking. The car also shook horribly. Long story short, and $2,300 later, i got the "head gasket set, water pump, timing kit, oil&filter change, " etc... Fixed. Question is, I am driving to Colorado from Maine in about two weeks. How long do subarus last after such repairs? Think ill get a few years out of it? Or should I sell it and buy a more reliable car before the trip out there.
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engine light and flashing cruise control switch--computer says replace bank one---so I replace with factory catalytic converter----six months later light comes back on with flashing cruise control switch and computer asking me to replace bank one---So I use computer to shut light off----four weeks later light comes back on----called dealer they said "we usually replace both banks"---I found it most painful paying for dealer supplied catalytic converter even when I was under the impression that it would keep light off.---This is my wife's car and she is not really buying the piece of black electrical tape I placed on dash over check engine light.---Am I dealing with a bad oxygen sensor ?
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I have a 2006 volkswagen passat 3.6 litre v6- have had this car about a year now, 60,000 miles, no problems until recently. Last week I started noticing that when I am driving, with my foot on the gas, it would intermittently act as if it was decelerating at a rapid pace( will drop gears, is NOT a coast)- even when I floored it!! As soon as it stops responding to the throttle I can floor it, nothing will happen, then let the gas peddle go- then reapply gas and it will act perfectly normal- no flooding, no nothing!! I have been able to keep it floored( while it is decelerating) for about 30 seconds, and it seems to make no difference.
The only other problem that I have recently noticed was that my cruise control was acting only intermittently as well. Oh, also while all this is happening it isn't throwing any check engine, or error lights. I have taken it to the dealer, and also to another specialty mechanic( with master certified technicians) and neither seem to find any problem with the vehicle, the only code that they said was found was one to the mass air flow??, but they weren't sure that was actually the problem, as, of course, they cannot seem to replicate my problem, even though it is now happening quite a lot. I am worried about driving my car now as it is quite a hazard when it decelerates rapidly, and to top it all off, we were supposed to leave for a 2,000 mile road trip in 10 days.
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My 08 altima cruise control comes on and the set light keeps blinking the service book says take it to my dealer is there anything I can do to fix it myself could it be a air leak or something?
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This has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
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I'm on a road trip and was taking off this morning when my CEL, vehicle dynamics control light came on steadily, with a flashing brake light. It's Sunday and no repair shops are open and I need to drive from CO to S. Cal today. Is it safe to travel? From what I've seen, it could be a problem with the gas cap or ABS is disabled. Haven't had cruise control light come on (yet), but haven't tried driving anywhere.
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My 2009 F350 cruise control has never worked since I bought it used and I'm trying to get it fixed without a trip to the dealer but to no avail unfortunately. I have replaced the cruise control switch on the master cylinder and I checked every fuse connected to the brake system and the brake switch works as far as I can tell. I also tried the diagnostic check where you turn the truck on while holding the off button on the cruise control but the cruise light never flashes. I also thought maybe it was the clock spring or the connection in the steering column being loose but the clock spring makes no noise and the horn and airbag all checkout so I'm at a loss.
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I have a 2005 Subaru Outback with 179,000 miles on it. My engine and cruise control lights flash on and off....have been doing this for 6 months now....intermittently. My mechanic said the he cleared the computer and to wait and see if it happens again. He said that it might be the catalytic converter. The car runs fine whether or not the lights are flashing.
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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I took our '99 Mazda Protege in for a clutch replacement. The mileage is over 150k. The car was returned with the air bag light blinking and the cruise control and horn deactivated. All were fine beforehand. The shop eventually admitted that they could have broken the clockspring during the repair. They are going to get back to me tomorrow with a quote for the repair and they told me they are going to "work with me" on the cost. I don't understand why I should pay for anything associated with the clock spring repair. Another mechanic told me they had to secure the steering during the clutch replacement and probably forgot to do it, furthermore they should cover 100% of the repair.
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I have a 93 Aerostar 4.0 and it is displaying the blinking airbag light (3-2) and the horn doesn't work and the cruise control failed. I believe it is the clockspring ...
QUESTION: Can the clockspring be repaired or must it be replaced. I do not have a schematic of the electrical components of the clockspring ...
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My mechanic can't find the problem. Engine light comes on. Along with the flashing cruise control. His diagnostic doesn't show him the exact problem as the voltage changes. He has checked everything related, changed out the bank 2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor, but can't find the problem. I don't know the diagnostic code. But he says that it doesn't give him an exact code. Can only the dealer do this? Car runs fine.
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EPC light coming on intermittently on the morning causing loss of traction control and cruise control, occurred 4 times in 6 months. No fault code logged in, no CEL in dashboard. The dealer checked for logged codes, none. Also had one time the low coolant level display in dash all during one ride to work (30 km) the coolant tank was full and even if I was cycling the ignition switch it was still displaying it. Back from work it was disappeared and never came back on. all EPC light coming on at morning, and ok when coming back from work 9 hours later. Any clue on this?
Car is 2007 Passat Wagon with 2.0T FSI 6 spd manual
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