Subaru - Outback :: 2004 - Slight High Frequency Vibration At Highway Speeds
Aug 21, 2016
This has been happening for the past 6 months or so. I recently had new ball joints, 4 wheel alignment, and 4 wheel balance. Even with this I'm noticing a very slight high frequency vibration at highway speeds. I noticed on one of the front wheels that a weight fell off, so this might explain the high speed vibration.
However - When I'm starting at 0mph, and accelerate to say 50mph for example, the car vibrates rather substantially as the speedometer moves from around 25mph to just past 30mph. After those speeds it goes away.
I've also noticed that it tends to be worse if I'm going up hill, which, according to the laws of physics, would tell me that going uphill would put more pressure on the front end, given it's heavier with the engine there. If I'm going downhill it vibrates much less.
When I drive I tend to not accelerate quickly, meaning, I don't 'punch' it, and accelerate gradually instead. If I'm driving on a level, well-paved road, and accelerate quicker than regular, the vibration seems to not be as heavy.
Any other tests for this? Struts, control arm, steering knuckle, drive shaft ?
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My Prius v has 1300 miles. I didn't notice at first but now I notice a constant high frequency vibration in the car, especially at highway speeds. Took car to a tire shop and had tires dynamically balanced, same problem. I think it must be the toyo low profile tires or its in the drive train and just inherent to the hybrid system. Seems to be the same whether in eco mode or ev. Vibration is the same on smooth or rough roads. Dealer service manager says he is not aware of any problems. Suggests bring car in for a test drive and compare with another new one.
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2014 Camry, 4 cyl. 65K ... Wife's car has developed a vibration that is going to be hard to get a dealership service group to troubleshoot due to randomness. I drove it for 30-45 mins today and have this description:
-Vibration, either described as a 'buzz' or a 'high frequency vibration'
-Happens in the 28-38mph range (different points)
-Under very slight acceleration. (hard acceleration efforts produce nothing)
-Can't swear to it, but feel like it is always in 'high' gear
-feel it in 'seat of pants', NOT through the steering wheel
-Is faint on sound, but you can hear something
-Is typically only a second or two
-Is very hard to 'create', but then happens unexpectedly.
-My wife first reported it to me, and I took my son on the test drive today and he could feel it as well when it hit, but couldn't pinpoint it as it comes and goes so quickly, but again, you feel it in the seat/butt more than anywhere else.
I've checked lug nuts to try to eliminate something easy and they are fine.
Since it is relatively slow speeds and under very slight acceleration, can there be a 'solenoid' that is creating a false shift effort, but just vibrates the trans instead? Without any info other than what I have stated above, I'm leaning toward transmission, but again, probably not enough info to go on....
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I have just over 11K miles on my 2011 and now notice steering wheel vibration & slight shake at 70 mph. The passenger can also feel it.
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I have a 2002 Outback with 98000 miles. I am running conventional oil. How many miles between oil changes?
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Getting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
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Over the last several months, the frequency with which my 2007 Subaru Outback is "shuddering" when I accelerate from a stop has been increasing. It feels like driving over a cattle grate -- a vibration that lasts for just a few seconds, and occurs in the 35-45 mph range. Now is happening on a daily basis, a couple of times per day. Based on some internet searchers, I concluded this might be a torque converter problem. Took it to the mechanic today and, of course, couldn't reproduce the problem with them present. They replaced the transmission fluid with a synthetic fluid and replaced the transmission filter.
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Yesterday, I noticed a rattling sound coming from the entire car a 2002 subaru outback 2.5l 4 cylander (it seems a bit louder on the passenger side but it literally can be heard throughout the car). I was on the expressway and got off and stopped at a red light when the check engine light came on and started to flash and the rpm's dropped rapidly and the needle began to bounce up and down. I pulled into a gas station to check it out more and popped the hood to find that when the car is rattling it is also shaking and rocking the engine of the car from side to side slightly.
When I'm idling the rpm's drop and the car feels like it is going to stall out. Then, as I accelerate, the rpm's barely go above 2000 and jump up quickly between 3000 & 4000. It sounds like a metal on metal rattle with a very slight high pitched whistle and you can hear a fan kick on and the engine try to keep the rpm's up every couple of seconds when the car is stopped. I had the timing belts replaced 2 years ago and it sounds very similar to how it did when they needed to be changed, however, the engine never felt like it was going to stall until yesterday.
When idling the noise gets louder and when accelerating it can still be heard but barely. Also, the rattling has caused the entire car to vibrate all of the time. I noticed yesterday that the oil was low and topped it off, but I don't think that would cause such a hige issue so quickly. When I go uphill, i have a good amount of power but every 30 second or so the car shifts and the rpm's jump lurching the car forward because of the surge of power. Also, when I hit the brakes, my rpm's jump slightly to about halfway above the 1 but the engine does not accelerate.
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I have a 2004 outback with just over 100k miles on it. It has been making a loud vibrating sound lately. It makes the sound when idling and even louder when I step on the gas, but at highway speeds the sound disappears. I do not actually FEEL a vibration, it just sounds as though something is vibrating/rattling. We had a mechanic check it out and they thought it was an exhaust issue. Apparently not, because the sound is still there.
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My 2004 Outback power steering was growling and squealing, but it was working ok at the time. I decided to replace the power steering pump before it completely failed and 3 hours later I was done. the growling and squealing was gone. However, when I backed the car out it was hard to steer at first. When I got going it all worked great, until I turned at the corner... hard steering again. When I got around the corner and up to speed everything is great again. The problem did not go away with time. Every time I turn at idle there seems to be no power steering. What is going on?
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First, details about my truck. 2007 F150 SuperCrew, 2wd, 5.4, 203,xxx miles on it, leveled with Hell Bent Steel 2.5" kit last year, has been aligned professionally since then, tires are good and balanced.
The issue I have is a vibration, kind of the same feeling when driving on a road surface that has had the top level of asphalt removed before it's resurfaced. It's mostly noticable at highway speeds. Its not a violent type vibration, but you can feel it. There is also a sound, similar to tires with a deep off road type tread.
The sound and vibration more noticeable when making lane changes or when wheel turned towards left, at highway speeds, not as much to the right. I've checked front wheel bearings, they are good, zero play, no loose suspension parts, u-joints are good, no leaks anywhere.
Since it makes the noise and vibration a bit more when moving wheel, could it be a power steering pump? The pump is the original.
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I have a 2015 RX350 with 25k. New tires, two road force balance by two different dealers and I'm still getting a high frequency vibration mostly in the seats above 60mph. Dealer cannot find any issues.
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My Outback has some squeaking coming from the rear end. The car is way too new (2014) to need shocks, but that is exactly what is sounds like. One side note, I drove it through the city at a very high rate of speed (family member emergency, long story) and was wondering if I could have damaged them in just one trip? The total drive time was probably 20 or 30 minutes / 5 miles, but the city roads contain plenty of potholes, etc.
The car isn't exhibiting any other symptoms, alignment is fine, etc.
The only other thought I had was the storage compartment around the spare. I actually removed everything and drove it around for a bit and still got the same thing.
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After driving for 30 minutes on the freeway, my Sonoma develops a high freq vibration that seems to increase after it starts. lessens a little as I slow, but does not go away until after the car has been parked for a while, but not as noticeable under about 30.. I have experienced this the last three days on my commute to and from work. Did have the breaks checked. I did have a clunk sound when i released the brakes at a stop, but that went away after the first brake check where they did not find anything, but just cleaned out the dust and readjusted. The vibe is pretty strong and makes me nervous to drive.
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Just got my 2014 SCREW 6.5bed with eco boost. Truck has a high frequency vibration very noticeable at 45-55 MPH. So bad the rear view mirror is blurry. Took it to the dealer and they said the e-brake was dragging and fixed that and said the vibration was gone. Not gone. Did some searches and found a number people reporting vibration issues possibly related to drive shaft issues.
Took this video of the slip yoke at the T-case idling in first gear, sent it to the dealer and they said that's normal. I don't think that looks normal. Does that looks normal?
Slip Yoke at T-Case ...
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I have a 2011 Subaru Outback with 40000 miles. For the third time since I've had it (6 months), the engine suddenly gets very loud at highway speeds while I am on cruise control. The RPMs go up about 500 and this lasts for a few minutes before going away. What is going on?
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Subie was driving fine...drove it on highway and went to park and NO reverse. At first, I couldn't shift into park either, but then I was able to shift in park. I can move the gear to reverse, but nothing happens (engine just revs and car wants to roll forward as it is on slight incline. Hubby checked trans fluid and it was a bit low, added fluid, but still no reverse.
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I have a 2001 Subaru Outback Limited with 135K miles on it. In the last year, I had two complete head jobs (the second because the new water pump failed while on the highway). In addition, I have had multiple water pumps, lots of thermostats and a new radiator installed. The last thermostat is an OEM. The car had been running fine for about a month and now overheats after about 30-40 minutes of combined, but mostly highway driving. At first, the gauge would rise to about 3/4 and then drop after about ten seconds, but now it goes to almost red and drops to 3/4. If I blast the heat, it will drop pretty fast. My mechanic told me that while diagnosing an earlier overheat issue (just before the good period), he noticed that the gauge would rise, but the computer temp would remain stable. He tried a new sensor, but said it made no difference, so he returned it. What is left to replace?
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I had overheating problem on the highway. Towed car to Automotive Clinic - They said I needed new radiator and hoses, so I installed. Couple weeks later, overheats again, this time said I need new head gasket, so I go ahead. Soon as I get back, my car overheats AGAIN. Now back in the shop, and they told me the head gasket blew again...they have taken all apart, and now say they can't find out whats wrong. The coolant is leaking, but they don't know why...it failed hydrocarbon testing. What can it be?
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I just bought this car (2000 miles) and I have noticed that it shifts gears oddly (hard to describe) and I get thumps and jolts in the transmission at low speeds, parking lot driving, going from reverse to drive.
Any knowledge of this transmission and it is possible there is something wrong?
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Have an '03 Subaru Outback Ltd. 184k miles. Great car all in all. Has been burning 3-4 qts oil between changes every 3-4k miles. Stated idling rough after warms up [intermittently], slight 'shimmy' at stoplights. Check engine light on always, flashes at times when warms up but even then doesn't flash all the time. Took it to dealer for upcoming smog check, have a bad oxygen censor and possibly bad catalytic converter, but also said low compression no.2 cylinder--which is what I'm wondering about.
Without further diagnostics they're talking about perhaps new pistons, and/or valve job and/or short block rebuild. My questions are 1-is there any more diagnostics possible to narrow it down without pulling it apart? and 2-is it worth a rebuild or should I sell? Great car otherwise, they're talking 3-5k range for repairs, blue book on the car is 4-6k rough estimate? Been a great car all in all, aside from clutch replacement this is the first major repair issue.
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