Subaru - Outback :: 2002 - Metal On Metal Rattle With A Very Slight High Pitched Whistle


Jul 23, 2015

Yesterday, I noticed a rattling sound coming from the entire car a 2002 subaru outback 2.5l 4 cylander (it seems a bit louder on the passenger side but it literally can be heard throughout the car). I was on the expressway and got off and stopped at a red light when the check engine light came on and started to flash and the rpm's dropped rapidly and the needle began to bounce up and down. I pulled into a gas station to check it out more and popped the hood to find that when the car is rattling it is also shaking and rocking the engine of the car from side to side slightly.

When I'm idling the rpm's drop and the car feels like it is going to stall out. Then, as I accelerate, the rpm's barely go above 2000 and jump up quickly between 3000 & 4000. It sounds like a metal on metal rattle with a very slight high pitched whistle and you can hear a fan kick on and the engine try to keep the rpm's up every couple of seconds when the car is stopped. I had the timing belts replaced 2 years ago and it sounds very similar to how it did when they needed to be changed, however, the engine never felt like it was going to stall until yesterday.

When idling the noise gets louder and when accelerating it can still be heard but barely. Also, the rattling has caused the entire car to vibrate all of the time. I noticed yesterday that the oil was low and topped it off, but I don't think that would cause such a hige issue so quickly. When I go uphill, i have a good amount of power but every 30 second or so the car shifts and the rpm's jump lurching the car forward because of the surge of power. Also, when I hit the brakes, my rpm's jump slightly to about halfway above the 1 but the engine does not accelerate.

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I ease off the brake and i hear this rattle coming from my car, like metal on metal. But really high pitched like something got loose or something. Tick tick tick tick. So i give it gas and it goes away. Its only there if i brake and release the brake...So i get home and everything is normal. I go outside and move my car and there's the weird rattle again ...

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Subaru - Outback :: 2005 - High Pitched Whine When Car Is Cold And Around 20 Mph

About 2 months ago, I noticed a high pitched whine on my 2005 Subaru Outback. It honestly sounds like a siren and is very noticeable. It occurs more often when the car is cold (1st thing in the morning) and around 20 mph. It sounds like it is coming from the rear of my car. It occurs whether or not I am pressing on the gas pedal. Once I get above about 30-40 mph, I don't notice it anymore (don't know if this is because other engine noises are drowning it out or what). It does not change or get worse when I turn. It seems to subside once my car is warm. Other people have heard it and some describe it like an airplane taking off.

I took it to the Subaru dealership and they said it was my alternator. Lo and behold a few hundred dollars later, it was still making the noise. A few days later, my CAM sensor went bad and I was back in the shop. Of course, I tried to get my car to make the noise for the mechanic, but it wouldn't cooperate. They didn't see anything wrong, but it is still making the noise. I have taken it to the dealership and they couldn't get it to make the noise. My rear wheel bearings were going bad and so I replaced those - under warranty, but it still makes the noise. I keep up with all my oil changes, services, etc. I just had the fluids checked and the power steering fluid is normal. The power steering pump has also been checked and it is normal. What this might be?

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Need to determine the cause of a strange high-pitched squealing noise coming from the engine compartment of my 2008 Subaru Outback 2.5l automatic. The squeal happens only when the temperature is cold (below 32 degrees) AND I hit a bump. It happens more often the colder it is outside. The noise is definitely coming from the front of the car and seems like the passenger side but I can't be sure. It happens with the blower fan/AC both on and off so I don't think it is caused by that. It happens when the car is cold or driven for a while and warmed up.

It occurs at both high & low speeds. I checked all my fluids under the hood and everything is filled as it should be. There are no lights (check engine or ABS) on. Recommend any troubleshooting that I can try? I have not taken it to a mechanic yet as they might have a hard time reproducing the noise since it has to be below freezing and hit a decent bump. I attach a video that I took while driving last week on a 16 degree day and heard the squeal when I hit a bump. I had been driving for about 30 min when it occurred. I have more videos of the noise if needed.

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Subaru - Impreza :: 2002 - Noise Like Scrapping A Plastic Fork Against Metal Coming From Back Passenger Side Of Car

Less than a week ago I bought a 2002 Subaru impreza outback sport. Fun little car. However two days after I bought it I started to notice a noise coming from the back passenger side of the car. It sounds sort of like scrapping a plastic fork against metal. I have looked everywhere for anything that could be making the noise, as it seems to be coming from inside the car. IT also seems to get worse the longer I drive. I commute to work, and so for the first 10 minutes it's silent, then gets louder and louder, by the time I get to work its noticeably loud.

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Subaru - Outback :: 2004 - Slight High Frequency Vibration At Highway Speeds

This has been happening for the past 6 months or so. I recently had new ball joints, 4 wheel alignment, and 4 wheel balance. Even with this I'm noticing a very slight high frequency vibration at highway speeds. I noticed on one of the front wheels that a weight fell off, so this might explain the high speed vibration.

However - When I'm starting at 0mph, and accelerate to say 50mph for example, the car vibrates rather substantially as the speedometer moves from around 25mph to just past 30mph. After those speeds it goes away.

I've also noticed that it tends to be worse if I'm going up hill, which, according to the laws of physics, would tell me that going uphill would put more pressure on the front end, given it's heavier with the engine there. If I'm going downhill it vibrates much less.

When I drive I tend to not accelerate quickly, meaning, I don't 'punch' it, and accelerate gradually instead. If I'm driving on a level, well-paved road, and accelerate quicker than regular, the vibration seems to not be as heavy.

Any other tests for this? Struts, control arm, steering knuckle, drive shaft ?

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Sonata NF (2006-10) :: 2007 - Metal On Metal Sound When Turned Right - Wheel Bearing?

I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.

So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?

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I got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.

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What we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?

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I recently worked on a 2006 with 140K miles that presented with the following symptoms:

The hybrid battery was at 1 bar; the ICE would not start; the car was in Ready, but there were no codes. As I let it roll off the flatbed wrecker in Neutral, it felt lumpy. If you have ever pushed a car (or run out of gas in one) with a manual transmission that was in a high gear, engine off, it felt just like that.

I popped the hood and could see that the engine crank was turning while the car was being pushed in Neutral. What else turns with the wheels? MG2, or more specifically, the MG2 ring gear. What is the only way that the wheels could turn the ICE crank? The planetary carrier pinions were locked to the ring gear.

Surprisingly, while I was looking at things, it did manage to start the ICE pushing it around must have freed the carrier pinions, so I let it charge the hybrid battery. It was basically the worst metal-to-metal noise that I have ever heard! I pulled the drain plug and saw about a teaspoonful of large metal chips on the magnet. The fluid condition itself was very good, not the black factory fill that I am used to seeing come out.

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I kid you not, the very evening I hit 60,000 miles and the general warranty expired, the blower motor started making noise like it was throwing a bearing and definitely sounded like some light metal-on-metal rubbing. After I became irritated at this, the noise went away and didn't come back until just a few weeks ago. I could make it stop by smacking on the bottom of the fan assembly a few times but I want a more permanent solution.

Tonight I dropped the blower out which was stupid easy except for the fact you're upside down in the dark with your head in a hole. But three screws and an electrical connector later, I dropped the assembly to find no serviceable components. I mentioned this to friend of mine who's into Volvos suggested spraying some lithium grease on the hub of the blower and letting it run long enough to quiet it down. I'll do this over the next few days and report back but part of me thinks a new blower may be in my future.

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My 2011 2.4l Sonata made a metal on metal sound suddenly the other day. About 4 days ago, I drove about 2 hours away from where I live, Mostly highway, about 80mph to a go kart race. Got out of the car for a while and came back in and was pulling away to run the store and as i started to approach the first stop sign maybe 500-600 ft from where i was parked, i heard a bad metal on metal sound, came to a complete stop at the sign and it stopped. Went back to the race after driving to the store about 5 miles away.

Got in the car to leave and same thing, just to the stop sign 500-600ft away. Drove home like i said mostly highway, and didn't hear a thing. Today, about 4 days later, I drove to Chicago O'hare airport, about 30min away, and it was fine the whole way there. However on the way back, after about 20-25min, I heard it again. So I came to complete stop as I was forced to by a traffic light as I was taking my exit off the highway, and It started making that sound again. So i came to a complete stop at the light and started moving again when it turned green and couldn't heard a thing.

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Ford - Taurus :: Metal On Metal Grinding Noise While Failing To Start Up

I have an '02 Taurus. For the last year or so it has intermittently produced a metal on metal grinding noise while failing to start up. I'm told this is due to teeth being missing on the flywheel between the starter and the transmission. It's taken as many as six tries to get the car going. But the car has always started in the end.

My questions are: Is the problem flywheel worth replacing at this point at this price? Is it likely to fail totally any time soon?

Also, might the March '09 replacement starter be implicated?

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Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: Intermittent Metal On Metal Grinding Noise

I have intermittent metal on metal grinding noise. Seems to happen when I am at highway speed. Seems to go away when I put it on 4 wheel drive or slow way down. On one occasion though, the grinding noise did not stop even after putting on 4 wheel drive - had to stop completely before it went away (did not come back after I drove off again). Diagnostics so far....

Unhooked the vacuum lines on passenger side actuator and hooked up vacuum gauge. Vacuum held at 20 psi and drops and raises slightly as the truck is being revved. Takes about 10 seconds for vacuum to drop to zero once truck is stopped. Putting it on 4 wheel drive drops it to zero immediately. Exact same scenario on the passenger side.

This leads me to believe my IWE solenoid is ok. So also my check valves. Next opportunity I get, I will raise one wheel, remove the vacuum line on that wheel and apply vacuum with my pump. Want to see if it will turn my half shaft.

2004 F150 FX4 ....

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