I had posted earlier about replacing the harness or at the very least the plug that broke off of the cam shaft sensor on our 98 Subaru Outback. Well, I replaced the plug, and the cam and crank shaft sensors as well and it is still cranking but not firing.
View 7 RepliesMy 2016 Outback, 10K miles, occasionally does a weird thing. The dealer is far from us, so I'm putting off taking it in, especially since they will be unable to reproduce this. Every now and then when I try to start it, it does not crank. The dash lights all come on, and dim when I turn it to the start position. But instead of cranking, it just does a soft stuttering click, exactly as if the battery were nearly dead. But if I try a few times, suddenly it cranks perfectly and starts right up.
View 15 Replies115,000 miles, adult driven. Hard cranking, took into dealer. Replaced 4 injectors - cylinder 2 misfiring. Showed me return gas line clogged with brownish material. Dealer stymied.
Now, Subaru headquarters diagnoses replacing all steel fuel lines, fuel rails, fuel pump...full of rust from inside. Tank looks Ok, as does filler neck. Premium gas used always, added Drygas seasonally as needed.
Question: where the heck would rust come from? What can I do to prevent this problem again? Love the car...would like to get 200,000 from it.
My 98 Subaru only overheats when going above 60 mph for more than 10-15 minutes. When it does and I pull over,the cap has blown off of the coolant tank. After letting it cool off and adding a bit of coolant - it doesn't occur again and I can drive for hours at high speeds. I drive the car every day, up and over mountain passes and up to the ski hill and never have a problem any other time. I know subarus have a tendency to blow head gaskets, but wouldn't there be other warning signs?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Subaru Outback with 140000 miles. When I begin to turn the car from a stopped position the vehicle shutters . I can not feel anything at speed. The transmission appears to shift smoothly. I only feel the shutter when I accelerate and turn from a stopped position. Can it be the differential?
View 5 RepliesI had overheating problem on the highway. Towed car to Automotive Clinic - They said I needed new radiator and hoses, so I installed. Couple weeks later, overheats again, this time said I need new head gasket, so I go ahead. Soon as I get back, my car overheats AGAIN. Now back in the shop, and they told me the head gasket blew again...they have taken all apart, and now say they can't find out whats wrong. The coolant is leaking, but they don't know why...it failed hydrocarbon testing. What can it be?
View 2 RepliesMy wife's Subaru just died on us. 98 Outback Legacy with quite a bit of miles on it. It was running fine, she took it to the store and then it would not start. It would crank but not fire. Internet searches led me to believe that it was a cam or crankshaft sensor. I go to pull the plug off and the weather beaten wires just snapped....
Turns out my option is splicing a new plug on or replacing the wiring harness. Now, SHOULD we decide to just replace the wiring harness. Is that a rip off?
The car in question is a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback. Just had the heads resurfaced and new gaskets, and timing belt. Runs great. Acceleration is good, stays cool. However, it has developed an intermittent knock/tapping. it sounds like its coming from the top end of motor. I added Marvel Mystery and the noise left for about a week but came back. Is this the beginning of the end? Or could it be a small problem involving the lifters/followers/valves?
View 9 RepliesI have a 98 Subaru Legacy Outback with 133K miles. It was leaking from the power steering pump and valve cover gaskets. My husband replaced the passenger-side valve cover gasket (which involved removing the air box) and the power steering pump (which required removing the alternator). When we put the car back together and reconnected the battery, it no longer starts! It "clicks" once but won't turn-over. The car does not have an alarm system (but it was an option on this model). We've tried jumping it. The battery is about 14 months old. The alternator is about 10 months old and the starter was replaced about 10 months ago too. We've double checked the wires that were disconnected and don't think we've missed anything.
View 3 RepliesLately my '03 1.8t with 90k has taken to long cranking before firing.Once it fires, it runs rough for about two seconds and then smooth as usual. Thought it might be Fuel pump relay but I'd think that'd show a fault light. Same with Fuel pump?No faults showing up. Plugs changed 9k ago. Only run Premium Shell.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 Hyundai Accent hatchback with 98k miles. About a month ago we were headed out of town and got gas about a mile away from the house. After filling up, the car wouldn't start. It would crank but not fire. Tried for about 15mins to no avail. Had it towed to local mechanic and it started right away. They kept it for the weekend and said they had no problems starting it, so without experiencing the problem they said they would just be throwing parts at it.
About 2 weeks after my wife drove to store and when she went to leave and same experience, but this time it started after trying for a couple of mins. Then just this Tuesday it wouldn't start in the morning. When it just cranks but not fire it shows a pending P0335 (crankshaft position sensor). So I ordered the part (won't arrive til Friday). When I got home I tried to start it as well to no avail; tried again Wednesday morning and evening, nothing. Then this morning (Thursday) it starts right up. Once its started it runs great. After recurrence of no start 2 weeks ago, I replaced spark plugs and spark plug wires.
I have a 1998 Silverado C1500 with a 5.0L V8. Since last Sunday, I've had two occasions (both first start of the day) where the engine will fire but not run. It turns over, sounds like it's started but immediately dies.
Possibilities???
1) The fuel pump does engage but I lifted the breather off and can't smell or feel any gas in the throttle body. Maybe fuel pressure? It's not all the time though.
2) I checked all relative relays and fuses in the engine compartment...they appear good.
3) After pulling and reinserting the fuses, I filled the bowl up with gas manually and it eventually started..after 15-20 minutes of off-and-on attempts. It doesn't die after it starts and then restarts just fine for a couple of days.
4) I filled up the tank last Saturday and did not have this problem prior to then..could it be bad gas? I have not used any injector cleaner or additive yet.
What could this be????
My 2000 outback wagon has only 67k miles. About a month ago, the check engine light came on. I took it to an Auto Zone and although unfortunately I didn't write down the code, the person who checked the car seemed to think it was probably just a bad tank of gas. I ran through that tank of gas and filled up with premium gas. Light didn't go off until THAT tank was near empty. Filled up a third time and light remained off until tank was near empty and it came on again. It has not yet gone off. I'm not sure how many more tanks of gas I should run through! The car isn't running poorly so I thought the bad gas was a good explanation.
A side note: about 6 months ago I had to have the head gasket replaced. I argued with Subaru and got some extra work done in exchange for the head gasket payment since my car missed the recall by a few digits but I was obviously stuck with an inferior product. I'm hoping they didn't do an inferior job. Even though it was 6 months ago, it wasn't that many miles ago - you can see my the year/mileage on my car that I don't drive a lot. Does that gas explanation sound reasonable? Anything about a head gasket related?
Having problem with corrosion of the tie down on a battery? The terminals are fine. It's just the metal plate that holds the battery in place with bolts. The paint has corroded off. I clean it up and cover it with dielectric grease. I have to do this every 4 to 6 months or so, because the corrosion keeps coming back. I had the same problem with my 2004 Subaru Legacy, and had to replace the battery holder as a result.
View 1 Repliesmy car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
View 2 RepliesOur 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R, which we bought brand new back in Feb ’11 and only has 4k miles, seems to be having issues with the cooling fan. The cooling fan will come on when the engine is cold and it will stay on the entire time the engine is running. I’ve read that the cooling fan will run the whole time when either the A/C is on or the vent control is set to defrost, regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot. In my case, the cooling fan comes on when the engine is cold, even with the HVAC off and it will remain running at full speed when the engine is running, again with the HVAC off.
Every time I go to start the car after it has been sitting for an entire day and the engine is cold, when I turn the key to the “On” position, before the engine is even started, the cooling fan comes on. How is this possible when the engine isn’t even running and the engine is cold. Again, the HVAC is off. Once the car is started, the cooling fan will remain on until the car is shut off. The fan is running as such a high speed you can hear it over the noise of the idling engine. Once I turn the car off the fan shuts off.
Since we’ve owned the car there were two other issues First, the transmission pan gasket wasn’t properly installed and it was leaking transmission fluid. That issue was fixed and is good now. The second issue was that oil was leaking from the timing chain cover. It turns out that the timing chain cover gasket was also improperly installed. This too was fixed, and doesn’t seem to be a problem anymore.
I purchases a 2012 Subaru Outback i2.5 Premium in January. The car has been stalling out after getting gas; I've put gas in it about 10 times, and it's stalled out or nearly stalled out after 4 or 5 of those times. The first time it happened I had to have the car towed back to the dealer. At the time, they thought it was bad gas, but the repetition of the problem has them stumped. There are no warning lights or error codes. I have had the car back to the dealer on four occasions, and unfortunately they can't replicate, find, or correct the problem. Now Subaru is involved. The car also runs rough and shifts rough, compared to the identical 2012 Outback I was given as a loaner the last time I had it in.
View 6 RepliesWhere the heck is the gas cap release. Just bought it to get back home as the jeep needs broken motor mount fixed and had to leave it in town. The subaru is pretty beat up so the gas cap release could be hiding (as in handle gone) ?
View 5 RepliesI own a 2002 Outback. It is overheating. We have replaced hoses, thermostat, water pump, the temp sensor, had the radiator tested. Nothing has changed our problem. My husband is at a loss and the mechanic who has is now has no clue as to what else it could be. The mechanic is referring to it as a ghost problem.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2001 Subaru Outback with the 5 speed manual transmission. About 6 months ago the clutch went out and we had it replaced. We did not go to a professional shop and instead used a friend of my father-in-law who used to be a mechanic. Last weekend I drove the car on the beach to go fishing and got the car stuck in the sand.
After 2 attempts to get unstuck the clutch started smoking and blew out. I only attempted to get unstuck 2 times and was not "rallying" the engine hard. I realized I was good and stuck and stopped because I didn't want to spin the tires and dig myself so deep I couldn't get towed out.
My question is this; what are the chances that a brand new clutch would blow after 6 months? The car is used mainly to drive on paved roads to and from work and the grocery store. Both my wife and I have driven manual transmission cars for years and we don't ride the clutch. It goes through the usual wear and tear of everyday driving and yet, one incident that requires a little beef from the clutch and it blows?
I have a 1998 Subaru Legacy Outback (automatic) that has 176,779miles on it. I live in San Francisco and only drive the car occasionally every 2-3 weekends out of the city. Recently within the past month I have noticed that after turning on my car and once it is in drive for the first 10-15 minutes it has a hard time getting past 20 mph. When I put the foot on the accelerator to go past 20mph the rpm goes way up to 4, 5 or 6. Once it gets past this then car is smooth and I have no problems. This problem seems to go away within 10-15 minutes of driving or if I turn my car off and then on again it seems to go away. I called my mechanic and they said it could be that the transmission fluid is low. I checked the level and it is perfectly normal.
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