Subaru - Legacy :: 2015 - Brake Light Started Flashing At 40 Mph
Mar 9, 2016
On the way home from purchasing this 2.5i Premium the BRAKE light started flashing when I got to 40mph. - yes, the emergency brake was off. Car was roaring like the brake was on-ablut 5 mi. to home. When I drove it back to dealer/service to get a few minor "We owe" things done, same thing happened again when up to 40mph. This was reported to service and car was driven by service manager. They reported a bad wheel bearing front R, and later in day found out rear R wheel bearing also bad. Yes, to be replaced..
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I have a 2011 Legacy Sedan with 40K miles. Three weeks ago, I drove the car 25 miles in 90+degree heat on the highway. I parked at a store, did not use the electronic parking brake and when I returned to the car 5 minutes later and started it, the dashboard BRAKE light was flashing. The brake was not engaged. I tried to engage and release it, but it would not engage, when I pushed the button the car 'chirped'. I drove the car home and garaged it. The next morning (after a cooler evening) the light no longer flashed. At that time I was able to engage and release the electronic parking brake and it worked as designed.
A similar sequence has occurred on four different occasions. When I start a cool car, no light. When I start the car after it's been run for a while, I'm getting the flashing light.
I've checked the brake fluid and it's fine. I've checked the OBD and it shows no codes.
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Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
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My mechanic can't find the problem. Engine light comes on. Along with the flashing cruise control. His diagnostic doesn't show him the exact problem as the voltage changes. He has checked everything related, changed out the bank 2 sensor 1 oxygen sensor, but can't find the problem. I don't know the diagnostic code. But he says that it doesn't give him an exact code. Can only the dealer do this? Car runs fine.
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I pulled out of my driveway yesterday (2014 Subaru Legacy 2.5 H4 engine, CVT) and about a half mile from the house, I noticed the brake light blinking. Along with it, the traction control icon was on steady, the cruise control icon was blinking (CC off) and the check engine light on steady. I turned around and went home. According to the owners manual, the blinking brake light meant a defect in the electronic parking brake. The car may not be safe to drive.
I pulled the code P1449 which according to the code reader means "air filter clog". The car has 33k on it and I changed the filter at 30k. I pulled the snorkel and checked it and it was clear.
Since it is under warranty, I called the dealer to schedule the repair. I asked the service advisor if it was safe to drive and she told me that the blinking brake light was only to get my attention that the check engine light was on. BTW, the parking brake seems to be working just fine, setting and releasing normally.
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru forester with 130K miles. Recently, the check engine light came and at the same time the cruise control started flashing. I brought it to the mechanic who said I had a bad catalytic converter. The car seems to be running just fine and now a day later the engine light is off.
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Last week, the brake, traction control, cruise, and check engine lights all came on my dash. All but check engine were flashing. The car seemed to be driving fine but cruise would not engage. I drove it to a local mechanic who checked the battery and alternator and reset the computer. He said there was nothing wrong with the car. The next day the lights started flashing again so I made an appt to take it to another garage. This place said my gas cap needed to be replaced (hence the check engine light) and that my vehicle dynamic module was busted. My dilemma is that since picking the car up 4 days ago, and driving roughly 200 miles since, the lights haven't come back on. My current plan is to wait a bit and see if they do but I'm wondering if there's a chance that the VDM is ok.
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So after hitting a deer in my car a few weeks ago I fixed it and drove it around town a little bit and it ran fine. But 15 mins onto the highway the next day it overheated. It was out of oil, which I had checked a couple days before when I fixed it. so after it had cooled down I filled it up with Coolant and oil and started driving it home. the roads where bad and I wanted to go easy on the engine so I took it at about 25-30 MPH. as I was driving it would slowly overheat, but I could get it to start cooling down but dropping it into neutral and just letting it idle while I coasted. I had to get off the frontage road and take the highway the last couple miles before town so I turned the engine off and let the fan run for about 20 mins, and started off again, the weird thing was when I got on the highway I was doing about 55Mph and the engine didn't try to overheat at all, but as soon as I got back in town and started doing 25 again it started overheating again. another thing that is happening is that the car will blow air through the heating system but won't heat it. I realize that was long but I'm really at a loss. I replaced the head gaskets less than a year ago so it's not from worn gaskets.
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Last week my 94 subaru legacy started giving me problems, At first it would putter out when I would go into reverse. A day or two after it was puttering out in reverse it started to putter out 5-10 secs after it had been started. Even faster when i would give it some gas. A few people had told me to replace the fuel filter and I decided to do so because I was hoping for a cheap easy fix, but sure enough it didn't change a thing.
I am around the time i should get the timing belt replaced, could that be that issue here? Or maybe the fuel pump, or fuel relay? Anyways I am working in Colorado where there isn't a mechanic shop around for at least 30 miles, and am not in a rush to fix it. Obviously the sooner the better but id rather try a few more things before I take it in.
I have the 2.2L engine SOHC. Also I have been driving on dirt roads quite frequently.
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I am currently on vacation, and will be here for another 2 weeks (3 total). I live in the midwest, and my car is currently parked at O'Hare Airport. I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i with 42k miles, full synthetic oil, and a 3 year old battery. Will I have any issues when I go to start it upon my return home?
The car always seems to fire right up, and with these warmer temps, I am thinking I'll be ok, but thought I would ask. I just kind of want to know if I should be looking for someone to jump me when I get back to my car.
Last, in warmer temps, in the garage, with a good battery, how long can a car usually sit for without being started? Also, if I start the car and just let it idle for 5-10 minutes, will that recharge the battery, or do I need to actually drive the car and get my speeds above 60mph?
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I'm on a road trip and was taking off this morning when my CEL, vehicle dynamics control light came on steadily, with a flashing brake light. It's Sunday and no repair shops are open and I need to drive from CO to S. Cal today. Is it safe to travel? From what I've seen, it could be a problem with the gas cap or ABS is disabled. Haven't had cruise control light come on (yet), but haven't tried driving anywhere.
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I have a 2010 legacy that I bought roughly three months ago. About two months ago the audio (cd, aux, fm/am, Bluetooth) started to cut out or stutter. I would turn the car off and come back a few hours later and start it back up and it was back to normal. Over time it has become worse to where after sitting over night the audio won't work when I start it back up. The display on the stereo works. I picked up a stereo from the wrecking yard, same model, and the issue was the same... The display worked but not the audio. I took it in to the Subaru dealership and the mechanic diagnosed it as a bad stereo (this was before I picked up a replacement stereo from the wrecking yard). My thought was that the amp was the culprit.
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The brake lights on my '02 F150 have started flashing spontaneously ie - with no one in truck. This lasts for a few minutes, then stops, but can start again a few minutes later. The fear of course is that someday lights could come on and stay on, resulting in dead battery.
I do have a trailer brake controller that has been on truck ten years. Read something on internet that brake pedal switch might be going bad (??). Any one else observed this strange behavior?
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Sometimes my 96 Subaru Legacy will not turnover unless the brake pedal is pressed. Other times starts without my foot on the pedal. It seems to need the brake pedal addition more often if it has sat a couple hours or more without being started.
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1993 Subaru Legacy wagon AWD Auto, press on brake pedal & won't release shifter,unless you press the button at the bottom of shifter.
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My old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
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I bought my Subaru in 2004 with 14,000 miles on it. The check engine light began coming on soon thereafter. The Subaru dealer has replaced my catalytic converter (the so-called problem) -- 3 TIMES up to 85,000 miles. The check engine has continued to come on and it goes off since then. Mostly, it's on, but now and then, it goes off. I bought my own diagnostics kit because I got tired of taking it in every time the light came on. I'm told it's the usual problems plus they usually have me get the oxygen sensor repaired. I've also been told to make sure my gas cap is tightly closed. Still the check engine light continues to come on and now and then it goes off (it's currently "on").
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Two weeks ago I bought a new 2012 Outback. While driving in the manual auto mode, the cruise started flashing, the check engine came on, the traction control light came on and the brake light was on. The dealer said it was because I did not tighten the gas cap, letting air in. They reset it but a few days later it came back on again and this time they said it was miss fire code. Since they couldn't figure out the issue, they did the right thing and traded it in for another, identical 2012 Outback. Now, 8 days later, all the same lights have come on.
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My 2005 Subaru Legacy 2.5i - the engine light is on and the cruise control light is blinking. This happened once before and it went away after I recapped the fuel cap. However, this time it did not work. The car is running ok.
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My car will drive fine, then @ 60 mph or above sometimes it will sputter and the check engine light will blink on. I brought it to my mechanic and plugged it in. Miss-fire on some spark plugs. They replaced all spark plugs and wires. The car is sill doing the same thing. My mechanic plugged it in again and now just a miss fire on #2 plug. (even after new wires and plug) Only seems to happen once the car is warmed up. If left sitting for 15 hrs the check engine light goes off completely. Only to come on again, after driven 25 or more miles. What could be wrong?
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I have a 2000 legacy wagon (245k miles) that has a light issue. The running lights and low beam lights do not work and the dash parking break light will not go out. Earlier I had just the low beams not working. They were both blown and I replaced them about two weeks ago. Now they are out again and the dash parking break light stays on. I checked the fuzes and they look good.
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