Subaru - Legacy :: 1999 - One Headlight Is Out
Jan 4, 2013
One of my headlights has stopped working on my 1999 Subaru. Do I need to replace the entire headlight assembly or is it just a bulb? Approximately how much should it cost to fix? 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan
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I drive a 96 Subaru Legacy. What does it mean when one of the high beams is dimmer (less light output) than the low beam? I am using a brand-new bulb. It's not an adjustment issue because I was looking at the bulb when it was outside of the housing and it clearly gets dimmer when you switch to brights. However, they are equally bright when on low-beam, so I don't think its just a crossed wire.
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I get check engine codes p0301 p0302 p0303 and p0304. Sometimes just one or two sometimes all four. It only happens in fifth gear at or above 2800 rpm. There is no noticeable misfire; my gas mileage is 25mpg and like the advice below, I've changed the wires, and spark plugs but not the coils nor the injectors. I've reset the codes numerous times; it comes back regularly but only in fifth gear at the higher speeds.
The car: Subaru legacy AWD wagon 1999, 2.5 liter 5 speed manual transmission.
To state the obvious, checking for electrical problems is a process of elimination. I've included some points I got elsewhere online to narrow down the cause. What is not discussed, but has been brought up by parts salesman are the sensors. There's five, a cam and a crank sensor as well as three speed sensors. Which sensor that's failing would cause such specific engine codes.
Talking points:
"for piston misfires If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back."Check engine light comes back on
"If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs)."There are no noticeable symptoms.
"Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable)."Done.
"Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced."It passed smog with flying colors. I'm not sure how to check the coil packs but since it doesn't actually seem to miss, I'd think to look elsewhere. -- maybe I'm wrong here.
"I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors." Same conclusion as above.
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My '99 Legacy is far from quiet, but yesterday I heard a new -- and somewhat alarming -- noise.
Roughly two-thirds of the way through a four-hour drive, I started to hear a rattling or grinding sound coming from the front of the car, perhaps closer to the driver's side than the passenger's. It sounded as if a tin soup can or paint can were hitting the road, but when I popped my head under the car, nothing was hanging loose.
I hear the rattling sound as I begin to accelerate, and only when I have my foot on the gas -- when I let off, it's perfectly quiet. What I haven't been able to determine is whether the noise goes away after I reach a higher speed, or whether the sound of the usually loud engine drowns it out. The noise is most acute around 1500-2000 rpm whether it's in gear, or whether it's in neutral and I'm revving the engine.
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I have a 99 Subaru Legacy Wagon with just over 196,000 miles in it. Over the past few days I have had a noise coming out of what seems to be my right front wheel. It is a clicking sound that increases with speed, and is only when I turn and have my foot on the gas. Other than the noise there seems to be no other symptoms.
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The car has about 142,000 miles. Is the clutch on this car adjustable? My repair files indicate it was "adjusted" a couple times, $40 each time. Now I think I might need a new one: it seems to be slipping, making some noise in 3rd, and in 5th.
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My 1999 Subaru Legacy has a couple of rust holes in the hood. Unfortunately it's from the back and not easily fixed without welding.
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As I was driving home the other day, I noticed the steering wheel on my 99 Subaru Legacy (130,000+ miles) became considerably stiffer than ever before. I pulled into my driveway (where, incidentally, the wheel loosened up) and checked the power steering fluid. Unsurprisingly, it was low.
I haven't been on the road since, but I did turn the car around in the driveway. Aside from the wheel gently stuttering or pausing initially (it's done this when cold for a while now -- I always assumed it was a loose belt or something) the wheel seemed normal.
I made an appointment with a mechanic and described my symptoms. He said he'd have to take a look but suspected it was a bad power steering pump. Is this the only possibility? Could it be a bad belt or a leak somewhere in the system? If it is the pump, how much should I expect to pay to have it fixed?
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The middle heating vents on my 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan stopped working recently. The other vents (by the window, defroster and floor) work fine. What might be wrong and how to fix it? The car has nearly 170K miles and I need to keep it running.
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My 1999 Subaru Legacy (with a manual transmission) has almost 200,000 miles on it, and has been almost entirely problem free. Until today. As I drove up a steep hill (which I drive every day), the car didn't feel quite right--as if it was struggling a bit. Then, after reaching the top and driving on for about 4 more blocks, I suddenly heard an extremely loud and heavy clank, at which point the car abruptly stopped. I could turn on the engine, but that was all. The car wouldn't budge; in fact it could not even be pushed to the side of the road if it was put in neutral.The tow truck driver thought it was probably the transmission, but he wasn't sure and also said he had never encountered anything quite like this.
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My rear tires (Nokian) on my Subaru Legacy 1999 all wheel drive car are noisy and chopped after only 18,000 miles (tires were in front for 4,000 miles; at that point I had to get two new tires which were put in front). My mechanic does not recommend rotation so they haven't been rotated. No, I don't know why. So now they are chopped but have lots of tread.
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I had plugs and wires changed to try clear code. Car seemed to do some better but while trying to go up a steep hill car started stuttering and jerking. Power went out of car and check engine light started blinking fast.after let the car sit for bout 45mins car started running fine again and light stopped flashing but remained on. Code read cylinder2 misfire again.
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I drive a 2000 Subaru Legacy and the radiator fan does not always come on. This sometimes makes the car run hot but has not (yet) put it into the "danger zone" overheating. It seems to happen if the car is in stop and go traffic and it's hot outside. If I'm driving down the highway or the weather is cool it doesn't happen.
I checked the fuses (yes, even the ones under the hood) and they are all fine. I am just curious if there is a sensor that could be the problem or if it is more likely the thermostat. It didn't quite fit the descriptions I found for thermostat but I'm a broke college student trying to keep an old car on the road, not a Subaru mechanic
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I need to lube the speedo cable on my Suburu legacy 1993 does the cable come out from the speedometer end.?Also what the best lube to use for the cable,also any pitfalls to avoid.
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My Subaru was violently shuddering. I think the cold weather has made it worse. It seems to just be when I accelerate. I'm not sure if it's the CV joints or the rack and pinion.
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The timing belts keep slipping on my car. I replaced the belts but it keeps happening. I went to readjust the belts today and noticed the pulley looks off. I know it needs to be replaced but given that it's the bott one under the radiator hose I'm not sure if it's one that I can easily do myself or if it would be better to have a mechanic do it.
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I own a 1996 Subaru Legacy (2.2L), and when I was almost home, my car died. I was going about 30 mph, and without any warning, I lost power to my headlights, my gauges, my power steering - everything. I lost all power to my car. When trying to start it again, nothing happens when I turn the key - no lights, no fuel pump...nothing. It has to be something electrical (obviously), but I would like to know what it is before I send it off to the mechanic.
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The other day while putting on some highway miles on a smooth road I experienced some new vibrations. Not good vibrations, unfortunately. She is an 02 Leg Wagon with 115,000 miles. The vibration was low amplitude and relatively high frequency and was most noticeable at 65 mph or above. Although pronounced at the steering column, the vibration seemed to be throughout the car. Struts? Motor mounts? Imagination? I cant handle the truth?
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every 2 to 3 weeks the car will stall while driving and acts like it's out of gas. 3 tows and no mechanic can figure out what the problem is and the car starts the next day.
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The check engine light (CEL) came on in my 2002 Subaru Legacy as I was exiting the highway. As I slowed to merge with traffic, my car then began bucking. I took the car to a local repair shop (no independent Subaru mechanics in my area and I've head bad things about the dealership) today and the CEL code indicated a misfire, so the shop mechanic ended up replacing the spark plugs, wires, ignition coils and battery. The car is running on 2 cylinders, so now the mechanic is considering replacing the timing belt. If it were timing-related, I would think that all 4 cylinders would be impacted. Besides, I had the timing belt, spark plugs, and head gasket replaced less than 2 yrs ago. What else it could be?
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I've had my Subaru for 8 yrs and never had a problem with the A/C, even in 100+ degrees of Arizona. I always had to turn down the temp. I've been in Maryland for nearly 4 yrs and it's worked fine even on very hot and humid days. In March I noticed that it didn't seem as cold as usual. I also didn't hear the compressor coming on when I turned it on. Mechanic checked it out and said the compressor was working but it probably just needed freon (I hadn't added any since I bought the car). They added a dye in case there was a leak and said I'd be able to tell in 2 weeks if it was leaking, but that the dye is greasy and might actually fix a leak if it's just due to a dry seal somewhere. They didn't charge me for the freon. (These are honest mechanics. I've been with them for several years and they've had numerous chances to bilk me but never have.)
Couple weeks went by and it seemed okay, though maybe not quite as cold as when I picked it up. Sometimes I'd drive and it would be very cold so I'd think it was fine, but a few minutes or some time later I'd know for sure it wasn't right. The weather vacillated between hot and cold too, which made it harder to tell. Finally the past 2 weeks it got really hot and I knew for certain it wasn't putting out cold enough air. Yesterday was in the low 90's and I was sick from the heat while driving. Only felt like a fan blowing. I left it at the mechanic's today. They just called and said the vent temp is normal and there are no leaks. They're going to check for an electrical problem, as I also have a brake light that blows on a regular basis. (Though he said those aren't on the same circuit)
As far as my operating behavior, I don't turn it on and off all the time, and once it's going for a few minutes I put in on recirculate. I'm the only driver.
1999 Subaru Legacy sedan, 160K miles
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