Subaru - Impreza :: 2011 Model Versus 2014 Jeep Patriot
Jul 6, 2015
In February I purchased a 2011 Subaru Impreza, 4 door sport with 26k miles, for 16,999.
Now 3 months later I have pilled on over 10k miles due to work, and constantly feel cramped with no space because I load so much into my car for my job (promotions and sales).
Recently, I have come across a 2014 Jeep Patriot sport with 15k miles for 19,600. The car seems to be in good condition inside and out.
Now I know nothing about Jeeps or cars as a whole really. But I do know that aside from size I love my Subaru.
Looking for opinions about switching from the 2011 Subaru Impreza to a 2014 Jeep Patriot?
Key features:
-I drive a ton
-Car is always loaded with stuff
-Fuel economy isn't a huge concern
-Subaru has over 36k miles
-Jeep has 15k miles
-In three months I have put over 10k on due to work
Stay with the Subaru or move to the jeep?
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My jeep is 6 months old. From day one it has erratic starter problems. Often when starting it, the starter keeps on cranking after I let go of the key! The ignition switch visually returns to the run position, but is electronically stuck in start mode. When this happens I quickly shut off the ignition and try again. Jeep cant duplicate the problem, and says Chrysler has no bulletins about this.
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I have a 2014 Patriot. I swapped my all-season tires for my snow tires and discovered the front tires (both) are wearing badly on the inner half. The right tire has worn way more than the left, and it is bald on that edge. I had an alignment done in May 2015 at 25,000 km after I had put on my all-season tires (that was done in April). Since then, I forgot to get a rotation done (and perhaps they would have seen the issue sooner). I brought the car in today to get looked at (Dec 17) but they found nothing wrong. They even did an alignment check and everything is within specs. What's wrong with it. I'm afraid my snow tires are going to wear the same way. The service manager tried to tell me that my tires were wearing on the inner edge of the tire naturally due to turning my steering wheel.
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What are some pros/cons you have with yours? Both 5.4 supercabs xlt im looking at just cant decide. The 09 has a overall higher rating but its not to much more.
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I have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i hatchback with a automatic transmission. When I go between 55 and 65 I hear a buzz saw noise coming from the rear of the car. The noise only happens at those speeds,on hills, and flat ground, and in curves, and on straight always, but I never hear it at any other time. What it might be?
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Symptom: Earlier today, I noticed my 2011 Subaru Impreza was stuttering when I turned the wheel completely left or right. Not only was it stuttering, but the battery light would flicker as though the battery was going to die. I made it to Auto Zone to check my battery and alternator, both of which passed.
However, while I was showing him the issue, when I turned the wheel completely right or left, the power steering pump pulley would stop spinning, then struggle to start spinning again. However, the belt would continue to run as it's being pulled by other accessories, but the power steering pulley would still struggle to spin. (Over time, my guess is that friction would eventually burn up the belt and cause it to break.)
Recent Work : I've had the A/C belt, serpentine, and the timing belt (with all accessories) replaced within the last 5,000 miles.I've replaced power steering fluid within the last 2,000 miles. This morning, I tried removing the reservoir cap and turned the steering wheel to remove air bubbles. It didn't work. The hesitation and stuttering is getting worse.
Diagnosis : At first glance, I would guess the power steering pump is failing, but I'm not a mechanic, therefore it's just an educated guess.
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A little over four months ago, I had a flat tire replaced on my 2008 Jeep Patriot. On the way I home I noticed a vibration around 35-40 mph. There was also an occasional "thunk" from somewhere underneath the vehicle. I took it back to the tire store 2-3 days later, and they rebalanced the tires. No luck. Took it back again again a couple of weeks later, and they could not find the problem. They recommended I take it to a dealer. It was a month or so before I could get it in to the dealer, and they replaced some worn parts in the drive train. Still the vibration.
Took it back to the dealer, by now about 4 months after the tire was replaced, and after having it in the shop for two days, they finally noticed that the replacement tire was the wrong size -- didn't match the mfr specs and (probably more importantly) didn't match the other three tires. They replaced all four tires, which were now worn and worn unevenly. The replaced the rear toe adjusters and one lower control arm. And aligned it, of course. Total bill for all the work done by the dealer, including the original work and the new tires.
Originally, the dealer blamed the worn toe adjusters and lower control arm on the wrong-sized tire, but once I started asking them for information to use against the tire dealer, they crawfished and said the only thing that the tire dealer should be responsible for was the tires and alignment. I took the vehicle and the old tires back to the tire dealer and asked them to refund what I paid for the replacement tire, pay me a prorated portion of the replacement for the other three tires, and pay for the alignment. (Which I thought was very reasonable.) They haven't given me an answer yet, but the manager claims that having one wrong-sized tire would not affect the other tires, that the uneven wear on those tires was caused by the worn parts that the dealer replaced (toe adjusters and lower control arm).
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Im very happy with the Prius that I have a 2010 V, its loaded with all of the options that were available at the time and I get a true 43 -46 mpg with my driving style and daily commute. The Prius averages more than twice the mileage I was getting with my other cars.
But I stumbled on the Lexus Cth and it seems its a Prius with a Lexus styled body and interior. The Lexus is a more conventional body style and seems to be a little better fit and finish on the interior but at a little less MPG. I tested a 2012 Cth with the F sport package over the weekend nd really liked it.
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I have a 2010 Jeep Patriot and recently it has started to jerk as I am accelerating. When I get to about 2200-2500 RPM the engine feels like I have completely let off the gas and then put my foot back down on it. Once it showed the Electronic Throttle Control warning light but I have not seen that light again in the past month or so. Originally I thought it might be the spark plugs, but I have changed those and seen no improvement. What could be wrong???
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Well, after a trip to the dealer, they don't make decisions easier. Offering a 'new' 2015 LS (only with Levinson and Comfort) msrp around 84k for 67k plus taxes. Nice discount, but on a car about to be a year old and new style coming soon,. OR 2016 ES with UL (all options) msrp 50k for 45k plus taxes.
Style on the ES fresher, but an LS is...well..an LS! Love an isolated ride, but LS is kinda large for my family. Will be hard decision. Pointers?
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I have a 2008 Jeep Patriot with a CVT transmission. The car was recently purchased and seems to have problems with slippage. When I accelerate, the car revs up highly, the tack goes to nearly 4k but the car does not accelerate in unison. Also, going up hill seem to challenge it. Seems like its slipping. When I took it to the dealer, the service manager says its because its a CVT transmission that's the way it supposed to perform. Is this the normal performance for this type of tranny? How I might handle issues with this tranny and getting the dealer to fix it?
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When I driver between 10-20 mph while coasting to a stop, there is a rattling/knocking coming from the left front end. I have jacked the front end up and shook the wheel and axle and nothing seems to be loose. What could be making this noise?
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Well Prii have always been a little "loud" under acceleration due to the CVT and small engine and minimal sound proofing, BUT We have 2 Priuses (Prii??), a 2011 with 41000 miles and a 2014 with 7k miles. My daughter got the 2011 to take to college. 1200 mile round trip so it made sense.
She maintains that for sometime, the 2011 is making more of the droning/roaring sound that a Prius makes when accelerating briskly. I did not really believe, her, but over holiday break, I had the opportunity to drive both cars more, and she is right.
The 2011 is clearly louder under acceleration. It also will develop a bit of a vibration at certain RPMs, even at very low RPM sometimes, when the economy bar is just beyond the electric mode.
The noise differential between 2011 and 2014 is most apparent at cold temperatures, but it does not resolve completely even with both engines fully warmed up.
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My Jeep makes a whining noise and sounds like a diesel truck. In the morning when I back out of my garage and reverse down a little way the noise is there. When I then drive off, the noise gets even louder. As I drive, the diesel noise seems to stop. The whining noise fluctuates. The whining noise started when my mechanic put in a new tensioner. He insists that the problem is the compressor. Twice he has removed the belt and checked everything and he says there is nothing wrong with the car except the compressor. T he air conditioner mechanic says it is not because the ac works well. He said that he has seen quite a few Patriots with this problem but he cannot tell me what it is because the people never come back to tell him what the problem was. I play the cd and the radio loud to drown out the noise so my husband who had a stroke does not have to listen to the noise.
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Ok so I'm looking at two trucks. One is a 02 f250 extended cab lariat 7.3 270,000 mi the other is a 05 f250 extended cab lariat 6.0 150,000 mi. The 6.0 has been bulletproofed by a reputable power stroke mechanic. I like them both iv never had a 6.0 always 7.3 ....
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My wife drives a 2013 jeep patriot with less than 20k miles on it. The turn signals began behaving eccentrically (beeps at strange intervals, and the right turn signal flashing twice as fast most of the time). We figured out that the right rear brake/turn light was out, so I replaced the bulb. That solved the problems, but on the way I noticed that the widget that the bulb plugs into looks just scorched (see pics). I don't have enough experience with these vehicles to know if this is normal, or if this means more trouble to come.
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I know on certain years the F250 and F350 really weren't any different. Same axles etc. I guess the F350's got an extra overload spring?
I am more curious than anything what separated an F250 from F350 in this year range.
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I have a 2012 Subaru Impreza 5spd, I bought it new about a year ago and every +- 2000 miles my low oil light comes on. The Subaru dealer is telling me this is normal. After happening 5 times in the past year I am getting fed up and believe there is something wrong with the engine. I Know many people with newer Subarus and none of them are having this issue with the oil light. When the light comes on and I check the oil I see that I am a full quart low, the dipstick comes out dry. The dealer has been insisting that this is consumption is normal. I finally called corporate last week and when they returned me call they told me that after contacting the dealer there was no evidence of low oil levels.
I attribute this to the fact that the dealer told me to top the oil off before driving, so of course the oil levels will appear fine when I bring the car in the next day. Regardless the woman from subaru corporate told me that consumption of a quart within 1200 miles is abnormal, however, she never said that it was normal for consumption rates of a quart per 2000 miles. So is this rate of consumption normal, and should I be concerned? There is no leaking oil that I can see, also where does the oil go in a closed system? I don't smell burning oil or see any smoke in the exhaust. I have begun carrying oil with me due to the frequency of this and am scared to drive it when the light comes on because I feel it will damage the engine.
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Gas light came on yesterday but when I went to fill the tank... Gas would not go in and the tank acted as though it was full, spitting the gas back out.
I propped the valve open for 15-20 minutes and when tried to fill again, it allowed me to pump gas. Is this a serious issue that I need to address immediately? What if I never let tank go below 1/4 full?
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,So my 98 subaru impreza acts rather funny for the first 5-10 minutes after start up. Basically what happens is I turn the ignition and it takes longer than usual to start up and when it does the car acts like its running on fumes. When I'm idling the car shakes like its struggling to get fuel in the engine and when I drive it it jerks along for the first 10 minutes or so when I have to accelerate. Usually after about 10 minutes of driving the problem goes away, but since I primarily drive it to work abut 15 minutes away, its like the majority of my commute. The problem usually happens more when i let the gas get below 3/4 of a tank so I try to keep it topped off.
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The check engine light on our Subaru keeps coming on. The first time, the computer showed that it was an issue with the gas cap. They reset the light and we were fine. The second time, apparently, they could not check if it was the gas cap b/c the tank was full. So, we had them just change out the cap. Well, now it has happened a third time.
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