my '97 subaru impreza outback sport has a rhythmic wosh wosh sound from the right rear wheel when the brakes are applied. It has rear drum brakes. I put on new drums, shoes and springs and the sound is still there. When braking hard, there is a metal knocking sound as well. What this could be?
View 2 RepliesThere's a very loud jerky noise in my car whenever I turn the wheel. This happens when I turn it right or left and the noise gets louder and jerks more when I turn the wheel more. So, if I make just a small left hand turn the noise isn't too bad but it's there, but if I make a U-turn and have to really turn the wheel the car makes the noise and jerks. The noise is like a loud "ga-ga-ga" sound ..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 Subaru Impreza 2.5i hatchback with a automatic transmission. When I go between 55 and 65 I hear a buzz saw noise coming from the rear of the car. The noise only happens at those speeds,on hills, and flat ground, and in curves, and on straight always, but I never hear it at any other time. What it might be?
View 8 RepliesI have a 1997 Impreza wagon, 168K miles. There is a creaking noise from left lower suspension. Mechanic lubricated lower control arm bushings and front sway bar links. That lasted about 1/2 mile. It seems to go away when the temperature is high 70's or higher. Steering, etc., seem unaffected. When will this become fatal, if at all?
View 7 RepliesIt was checked by the dealer who said "everything was tightened the way it was supposed to be." They found no issue. It doesn't happen all the time, just over certain bumps. It seems to be getting worse in the cold. It's not seat belts hitting or, as far as I can tell, not the spare tire apparatus. The car runs fine otherwise. 2013 subaru impreza hatchback.....
View 10 RepliesI have a 2013 Subaru Impreza with 23,500 miles on it; all service done at dealer, by the book. Brought car in at 22,212 miles for rotational noise in front right tire area that becomes noticeable at 35 mph and syncs with speed of wheel (especially annoying at highway speeds). tires were at 6/32, inside edge 'slightly chopped'. Alignment was done; right rear toe out of adjustment. the noise remained.
returned to dealer; manager took a ride with, said he heard the noise, said tires (the originals) might be made of softer rubber and wear faster, or it might be a wheel bearing starting to go. he did a visual check of tires and measured tread. they replaced the right bearing. Noise still there.
Returned to dealer, they road tested , heard the noise, ran car on lift and 'traced to center of transmission', ordered a Subaru remanufactured transmission and installed it. the noise remains . I was especially shocked at replacement of transmission! (car is still under warranty so it's not costing me anything but grief and aggravation at no resolution).
I have always felt the problem is at the wheel, but i'm no mechanic. they are the experts. Could it be a problem with defective brake parts that somehow are rubbing or if the lugs are tightened too far could that bend something. I am not a street racer and I drive like I plan to keep the car for a long time!
When I called (after the transmission replacement) about the driver one-touch window not working, the desk guy told me how to reset it (very easy) and said that they'd forgotten to do that. I told him that the noise is still there and he said "well, it could be coming from the roof rack" (I have non-Subaru cross bars on the roof rack and a fairing. I thought that comment was lame as the crossbars have been on since 2013 and I've heard no rotational noise from them. However, to 'rule out', I will remove them and take a drive.
I told desk guy I was going to drive the car for a week or so because conditions have not been optimal with bumpy roads and weather to be completely certain. several days have passed since that conversation; the noise is still there and once I've driven without the crossbars on, the car is going back.I am hoping for feedback on what to tell them to check next.
My car smells a little like something's burning and sounds like I'm engine braking when I take my foot off the gas (on the flat). My brother stated definitively that it was the rear differential - something about burning oil. I took it to the dealer who said it couldn't possibly be from the donut tire I had to use to drive to the airport, but lo and behold - the rear dif was having issues. I read the manual for my 2005 Subaru Impreza very carefully when I changed the tire, in the dark, in my driveway - with a flashlight, and no-where in it did it list how far I could go on the spare.
I ended up going about 50 miles at below the recommended speed because it was 3 AM and I had no other way to get to the airport. It did not mention anything about turning off AWD by removing or adding a fuse (as has been mentioned elsewhere in this forum) or any other way of turning off the AWD for that matter. It said NOTHING anywhere - I checked before, after, and again just now. Even when I called the dealer, AAA, and four different tire shops no-one could tell me how far you can drive on a spare or whether or how it might damage my car.
Anyhow I bought 4 new tires before driving home from the airport, but seem to be stuck with burned oil in the rear differential. The dealer acted like there was nothing they could do except replace it when it got bad (it's barely noticeable now). I asked if they couldn't just change the oil - to at least delay any additional damage but the guy shrugged as if it didn't matter. Is that really true? Is there nothing to do but pay $2,100 to replace the rear differential. Seems crazy.
It's a manual transmission and it did start snowing badly on my way to the airport if it matters (but I was driving very slowly - with hazards on and everything).
On the expressway, I was driving my 2013 Subaru Impreza about 50 mph and had occasion to make a sudden stop. There were no crashes, and traffic started up again immediately - except for me! There I was, in the left lane, and when I depressed the gas pedal the car stayed put. I could hear the engine rev, but the wheels didn't turn. I had to turn the car off and start it again before I could move forward. What could be going on?
View 8 RepliesMy Impreza has a vibration in the steering wheel around 65+ mph. I had the tires replaced, road force balanced, and new rotors put on. Shake eased up, but is still noticeable and a pain on long drives. I also just had an alignment, but it seems to have gone right back out of alignment after a couple weeks. Car has about 75,000 miles on it. How to remedy this?
View 6 RepliesI have a 1995 Subaru Impreza. When I am turning my front end clicks and the faster I go the faster it clicks and then just kind of goes away, but the one I'm most concerned about, is that sometimes when I'm going about 50-60 mph my front wheels start shaking left and right really fast and it jerks to the left every time the wheels shake to the left, but shaking and pulling gets worse after I let off the gas. It sometimes goes away after I step on the gas but then returns when letting off the gas.
View 10 RepliesI have an 09 Subaru Impreza Outback Sport with 70k miles. I recently had new rotors and new tires replaced, an alignment and recently brought it into the dealer for its standard 60k tune up. I now feel a shimmy in my steering wheel at about 65-70 mph. It tends to come and go but I do a lot of highway driving and I feel it quite a bit. I already had the tires rebalanced 3 times and when that didn't fix the problem the shop replaced the tires with a brand new set. I still fill the shimmy. Is this a common problem with Subaru?
View 12 RepliesSymptom: Earlier today, I noticed my 2011 Subaru Impreza was stuttering when I turned the wheel completely left or right. Not only was it stuttering, but the battery light would flicker as though the battery was going to die. I made it to Auto Zone to check my battery and alternator, both of which passed.
However, while I was showing him the issue, when I turned the wheel completely right or left, the power steering pump pulley would stop spinning, then struggle to start spinning again. However, the belt would continue to run as it's being pulled by other accessories, but the power steering pulley would still struggle to spin. (Over time, my guess is that friction would eventually burn up the belt and cause it to break.)
Recent Work : I've had the A/C belt, serpentine, and the timing belt (with all accessories) replaced within the last 5,000 miles.I've replaced power steering fluid within the last 2,000 miles. This morning, I tried removing the reservoir cap and turned the steering wheel to remove air bubbles. It didn't work. The hesitation and stuttering is getting worse.
Diagnosis : At first glance, I would guess the power steering pump is failing, but I'm not a mechanic, therefore it's just an educated guess.
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
My 2003 Subaru (about 14 years old, 165K mi) started making a thumping/clicking noise only when I turn right. It had been going on for weeks when I finally I took it to the mechanic, and of course he couldn't hear a thing. He drove it in circles, took the wheel apart, checked an axle boot that he replaced on it last summer, checked the axle. He said that the brakes squeak, but everything is fine. He told me to keep driving it until it gets worse. Didn't charge me anything.
5 days later (today), the noise comes back. Only when I turn right. I also feel a faint vibration below my feet. I drove it to the train station to get to work, put on the parking brake like I always do, but noticed that there was a burning smell from the front end. When it was time to go home, I noticed that there was something funny about the brake pedal. I normally press the brake when I start the engine, and usually it gives. But this time, it didn't and acted like it was stuck. I took my foot off, pressed again, and it was fine. I had also released the parking brake. Driving home, the thumping noise was gone.
Typically, this noise is worse in the morning than it is later in the day when I go home. Can a loose parking brake cable contribute to a thumping noise when turning in one direction, or are these all unrelated problems? I am stumped. Are CV joint issues typically inconsistent like this?
I have a subaru impreza 2006 with about 100K miles on it and it makes a chirping noise--which i think might not be coming from the engine or the belts because i had the belts, transmission and stuff all replaced about 8 months ago when i got a tune-up--but I don't know.
The sound most of the time usually happens when i am making a left turn(but sometimes happens while going straight but never in reverse or right turns) while accelerating from a complete stop. However when i take my foot off the accelerator while in motion it the sound stops.
This sound occurs maybe 25-30% of the time. What is going on????
I have a 2002 Subaru Impreza WRX and recently it started making a squealing noise while the clutch is depressed at low speeds. I've researched that it's likely the pilot bearing or bushing? My questions are: should I have the entire clutch replaced? How much should it cost? And will I cause more problems if I wait too long to do anything? How long can I wait?
View 8 RepliesI've got about 88k miles on my 2008 Impreza 2.5i manual. The last 30k miles on it have been rather rough (~60 miles a day stop-and-go highway traffic). Somewhere around 80k I developed a leak in my clutch hydrolic line that lead to a clutch replacement around 82k miles (I had a few leaks simultaneously so diagnosis of the clutch line took longer than optimum). I also had new break pads installed around the same time, tires rebalanced, alignment, and one new ball joint on the front driver-side wheel. Anyways, after this work I had a noise develop that I've had checked out twice and has yet to be diagnosed.
I am getting a grinding noise that occurs with both front breaks but at different, specific, reproducible points in the tire/rotor/etc rotation. It also only occurs with mild break pressure (most noticeable during a gradual, easy deceleration). The frequency changes with speed, so I know it is rotation point specific. Heavy break pressure does not generate the noise. The noise is also the most noticeable after the car has been at rest for a number of hours, and lessens the longer I've been driving continuously (but never goes away completely). I have not noticed much change as a result of moisture, and I live in Colorado so our humidity is at a minimum. I've also had my rotors checked to make sure they aren't warped, and I've been assured that my break system looks good and clean.
I have a 2005 Standard 2.5 RS wagon - nice little car.
So with that in mind, I had a local garage (trusted...dealership in this area is notoriously crooked) replace my timing belt, tensioner, idlers, thermostat, and water-pump last week. I've had the car back for about 3 days and I just noticed today, that while the car is idling, I'm hearing a knocking noise coming from the engine somewhere (could be while I'm driving too, but maybe I just not hearing it) - I don't recall this sound before bringing it in for the work. When I rev up the engine a bit, it goes away, but when the car sits for a few minutes, it comes back.
I've already had it back in since the change for a defective tensioner, which the garage replaced free of charge. I plan on calling them first thing Monday morning to bring it in so they can have a look, but in the meantime, what this likely to be?
Background: 2003 jetta; just changed rotors and pads on rear wheels a month ago, they are disc brakes
So the other day I was driving in a school zone at about 20 mph when I heard a VERY loud sound, like I'm dragging metal. i might also describe it as two rusty metal plates being rubbed against each other, but really really loud.
The noise is related to speed, it sounds cyclical and speeds up as the wheel turns faster. It occurs when I am NOT braking.
I parked the car and came back to it a few days later move it and the sound disappeared for the first 100 feet and then came back.
We did 2 things - we changed the caliper, and we also noticed that a caliper bolt was missing. I am pretty sure the noise was coming from that missing bolt - i think the caliper became dislodged and was making contact with the rotor. The caliper also seemed to be dragging a little bit so we went ahead and changed it too.
Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
View 14 RepliesI bought a used 2009 Subaru Impreza wagon, 2.5i NA, manual trans a month or two ago. I'm in Texas and only recently it's started getting fairly hot (above 90 during the day). I mention the temperature because the thumping noise I've noted when turning only seems to appear after the car heats up, or when I have been driving it for a good 30 or so minutes. I'm not sure if it's the car heating up or the heat of the day. Either way it doesn't make the noise right as I start driving (in the morning when it's cooler). For this same reason when I took it to the Subaru dealer (during the cooler morning), they didn't note the noise and said all they could hear was the steering rack hitting the stops. I mentioned that I was worried about the CV joints and they said they would drive it around in figure 8's - again nothing noted. They said they checked the boots and they looked fine. The mechanic that talked to me said something about the pressure in the power steering pump building up when you turn the wheel all the way right or left, possibly making that noise.
THE SOUND: a loud thumping (it resonates through the whole car) it isn't a clicking noise, it is repeated and the rate at which it repeats increases the more the wheel is turned.
WHEN IT HAPPENS:- After the car has been driven about 30 - 40 minutes in 90+ degree heat (the heat may or may not be related)- When turning the steering wheel about 180 degrees or more left or right - it only occurs in those ranges of degrees, so I've only noted it in parking lot type situations or when doing u-turns. i.e. I haven't noticed it at higher speeds.- It seems to get louder the more the car is driven or the hotter it gets (again not sure which one, possibly they are related)
I'm mainly concerned because I'm doing a trip to Detroit, MI from Texas in a few weeks and I don't want to get stranded in the middle of no where. If it is indeed the power steering pump and not the CV joints, I'm just concerned about how loud it gets and how it gets more intense the more I drive. Is there something I can replace to make it go away!? Such as the power steering pump?