A gather that the recommended interval for a transmission fluid change is 3 years or 30k miles? And that is drain, change the filter if any, and refill, not ask because the users manual says nothing. Does this apply to a CVT transmission? What about differentials?
(2015 Forester, non-turbo, CVT)
Is it necessary to check (or change) the fluid levels in the CVT and the differentials?
The manual has the following confusing statement for those:
Continuously variable transmission fluid. It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. Check that there are no cracks, damage or leakage. However, the fluid inspection should be performed according to the maintenance schedule in the “Warranty and Maintenance Booklet”.
The Maintenance Booklet list inspection every 30k miles for : Transmission gear oil, CVT fluid, front and rear differential gear oil.
Another question, how is the Transmission gear oil different from the CVT fluid? And should there not be a third differential, or is that part of the transmission?
What is the interval when trans fluid gets changed? I need to take a trip....round trip will be about 4600 miles I probably have less than 1500 on the current fluid now.. and before that had changed it 2 other times within 1000 about 8 mo. apart just to rotate the fluid. I am planning to do it as soon as i get back.
View 8 RepliesThose with Honda's know the Auto Tranny needs some extra care - there is no filter to change.
Factory recommends drain and fill every 2 yrs, which I have been doing.
After Acura TL (?) had some issues, Honda made a machine to suck old fluid completely out - heard dealership did not touch these machines for 6 months!
I am wondering if I should change these fluid every 1 yr instead of 2 yrs on any of my two cars - one is pre 1990 (1st gen) with 165k - but replaced tranny 7yrs ago with a used one and it had done 25k. Other is around 2000 (3rd gen) with 120k. The 1st gen does 3k every year and the other does 8k.
I could take to dealership and ask them to drain the whole fluid out - sometime this might make the tranny from stop working given the age on the 1st gen.
Are there any other tips?
So, my dealer insists the oil be changed every 2500-3000 miles. That can't be right, right? Can change it less frequently. It is important to note I have put nearly 12,000 miles on the car in 8 months.
View 16 RepliesRecently had a quickie oil change on my Forester (manual, 118K, blue) and have just noticed an unusual noise. After I drive a bit and the engine warms I hear a whir or whine even though the RPMs are normal. What I've learned is that the whir/whine isn't heard when I first drive the car (when it's cold), it increases in pitch with increased speed, and is most noticeable at 35/40 mph and above. The noise remains upon deceleration but decreases in pitch, and then goes away altogether when the car comes to a stop and idle.
View 3 RepliesWe just had our timing belt changed today as well as the waterpump and fanbelts. It has a loud whining noise now and I don't know if it is even safe to drive back to the mechanic...
View 3 RepliesSometimes the Subaru standard transmission just does not want to go into reverse. I don't see a pattern here, but when it happens I have to double clutch it, or hold the clutch peddle down and move from first to reverse.
View 3 RepliesAfter having changed the oil in my 04 Forester multiple times, I must have lost my mind and drained the transmission fluid. I realized this when I started it back up and it wouldn't move. Clearly I put an oil filter on with engine oil around the seal. Should I do a tranny flush or can I just replace filter (with correct one) and fill with tranny fluid?
View 16 RepliesA significant amount of engine oil was added to my automatic transmission line. I drove the car (2010 subaru forester) for about 10,000 miles. I noticed the transmission slipping. I brought it to the dealer. They found the engine oil in the transmission, flushed and replaced the fluid. The question is How badly is my transmission damage. The warrenty is now voided and I am afraid that I will need a new transmission fairly soon.
View 4 RepliesI have a 09 Subaru Forester (automatic) with 56,300 miles on it. Within the last 100 miles, the transmission has started 'hiccuping' as it changes gears. Also, when the car is cold and first started up, as I drive the rpms rise to around 3k when switching gears; sometimes holding there for anywhere from 3 seconds to 12 seconds before finally changing gears. As the car warms up, this problem disappears, but the 'hiccuping' continues. I took it to the dealer and they flushed out the transmission fluid, but problem still persists. I called the dealership asking for a new transmission because it is still under warranty, but they refused. They are going to check pan for metal shavings, and if they're present then they'll replace trans. If not, then they will replace other parts until problem is fixed.
Also, another important question: If I had the transmission fluid replaced, would it be possible that they may have cleaned out any metal shavings, and when they check 100 miles later, there wouldn't be any? I'm worried that I'm going to get screwed because they eliminated any metal shavings and when they go to look again none will be there because there hasn't been enough mileage put on the car to make them appear again. I do not know enough about cars to know if this is even a possibility. They refuse to honor the warranty until they go through a checklist of possible repairs, and I'm nervous that list will run out when I hit 61,000 miles and warranty runs out.
When my 06 Forester was still under warrantee I brought it to the dealer to diagnose a "stutter" in the transmission after I had slowed down to about 10mph to turn onto a street and started to accelerate. They could not find anything wrong and so I have lived with it until recently when I decided to try the local tranny shop that has a good reputation. They could not find any problem although at first they thought it might be engine related (mass air flow sensor), but that was ok.
View 2 RepliesI have a 09 Subaru Forester with 66k miles that vibrates like it is going over rumble strips when it up shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. It occurs under normal (not brisk) acceleration. I had the trans fluid changed at both the 30k and 60k services. I have owned this since new. It began before the 60k service. Also, sometimes the tach will increase revs during this as well. I don't know if this next thing is related but when I once need to merge quickly into interstate traffic I gave it a good amount of throttle and the tach revs increased but the trans did not follow with an immediate down shift.
View 4 RepliesThis has nothing to do with cost of an oil change or what is the best oil to use. My question is what would you do in this situation and will my choice impact my warranty? I will be taking a trip in the fall and will likely be about 1200 miles from home when my Treg reaches 5000 miles (first oil change as per the manual). Do I go to the local dealer where I will be and get it changed or do I wait until I return to my home and local dealer with about 6200 miles showing on the beast?
View 10 RepliesI purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
i am used to changing the oil & filter in a new car after 700 miles, the thinking was the bad sand castings and after a couple hundred miles some sand and other noogies would fall out of the engine block, heads and other parts. Then begin a 3,000-3,500 miles cycle of oil & filter changes. The dealer where I bought and will have it serviced at, a large Toyota dealership in Henderson, NV., says the oil and filter in this new Camry SE V6 gets changed every 10,000 miles. I know the tolerances are much tighter in 2013 than the 60's & 70's, and this engine uses synthetic oil but that seems a long time between oil & filter changes.
View 14 RepliesOpinions ranged from using the Ford on board system, which can let you go
10,000 miles, to "Ma pappy done said ya gotta git that ol' all outta thar every 3000 miles." Needless to say, we didn't reach a consensus.
So here's a different question:
3 owners, Art, Bob, and Charlie each believe in 5000 miles between changes.
Art drives 10,000 miles a year and changes it twice a year. No problem. Right?
Bob drives 5000 miles a year and changes it once a year.
Charlie is gone from home most of the time and only drives his vehicle to the airport, then back a couple weeks later. He does this once a month and it's 100 miles each way. Otherwise the vehicle sits.
So he drives 5000 miles in 2 years. Any problems there?
I have been changing the transmission fluid. It seems the consensus is that unless you are driving under extreme conditions (other than "normal"), it may be advised. I am probably driving my 2006 V8 Phaeton "normally" but I am not sure of its previous life. For example, it lived in hot and humid South Carolina and may have done a lot of highway miles. So I am thinking about changing that fluid for safe measure.
View 24 RepliesI own a sweet 2008 Corvette with 31,000 miles. I have only use Mobil 1 synthetic oil. Every spring, after the winter hibernation, I change the oil despite having only 5,000 to 6,000 miles between oil changes. My question is, should I continue to change the oil once a year or can I wait to change it at the 10,000 mile interval.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Santa Fe 2.4L (automatic) with 200,000 miles. Auto shop is recommending I change my transmission fluid. I've heard that changing the transmission fluid on a high-mileage vehicle is potentially dangerous. I haven't noticed any symptoms of "bad" transmission fluid.
View 5 Repliesi just bought a used 2006 scion xB (owned in Phoenix by a nice old lady since new) with only 14k miles in immaculate condition. I thought I had a gem, but I discovered the oil change history exceeds manufacturer time recommendation of every 6 months: changes occurred at 7 months, 17 months, 8 months, 15 months, and 11 months. Mileage recommendation is every 5000 miles; oil was changed after 2000, then 4500, 1500, 2800, and 3600. i read that oil oxidizes over time and if left in the engine for longer than recommended and used on short trips causes internal engine deposits, corrosion and sludge? If I now change the oil more frequently than recommended will it remove any such bad stuff? Should I be worried?
View 4 Replies