I bought a 2015 Subaru Forester. Our test ride was on a smooth road. After buying the car, I noticed how bumpy the ride is on only slightly rough roads. Also the paint has some cracks near the door edges. Have a 2015 Subaru Forester and noticed the bumpy ride.
View 9 RepliesWent to sport mode again today (after TSBs) and the ride felt hard on bumpy roads, really stiff. I want to upgrade to 18's or 19's to get a better feel of the road in the summer, just want to get some input from those that have had the TSBs performed and upgrade to larger wheels as well.
View 8 RepliesBeen hearing a plastic sounding tapping noise when I ride over very bumpy roads. Turns out the floor panel in the trunk has some play and it's not padded. Well I wedged a towel Between the floor and the trunk lid and the tapping is gone. I was able to duplicate the sound by lifting and dropping the sliding floor in the trunk. Anyway I'm thrilled car is supple and quite over bumpy roads now. I went over every bumpy road I could find; nice and planted and quite now...
View 3 RepliesThe sunroof seems to squeak a lot while driving on bumpy/ uneven roads.
Before I didn't know where the squeaking sound was coming from, I assumed it was from the doors. But when I opened up the sunroof the squeaks went away and when I closed it the squeaks came back. The sound is so irritating sometimes that I am forced to drive with the sunroof open.
On bumpy roads, and on most highways, there is a slight humming/rattling noise to the bottom left hand side of the steering wheel. Its really only audible when there's no music on, which happens to be how I like to drive. I've tried pushing on some of the panels when i hear it, to see if it dampens the noise, but no leads so far.
View 8 RepliesI'm having an issue with my drivers side door trim vibrating. Bumpy roads, snow covered roads, pretty much any road surface that isn't perfect, this piece of trip vibrates and makes a squeaking noise. I've attached a picture and put a circle where the noise is coming from. If I hold that part with my hand, the noise stops. It's very annoying since it's right next to my ear!
View 6 RepliesI took my 2007 Rx 350 in for a tire sensor replacement and was given a 2013 Rx loaner. While the cabin was quieter the ride was horrible. Very rough and bumpy. When I asked the service manager about the ride, he said Lexus had changed from an independent suspension to a solid suspension in 2010 and the ride was bumpy. Why would Lexus change to a less comfortable ride???
I am in the market for a new car, and wanted a new RX but the ride is so bad compared to my car, they lost my business. If you are considering an RX, get ready for a rough ride.
Experiencing a rattle from the moonroof area when on slightly rough roads or any other time? If so what did you do?
View 7 RepliesI have a new 2015 Subaru Forester and I noticed the following problem: When driving at a constant low speed, in the 20-30 MPH range, the car bucks/hesitates slightly off and on, while driving. At first I thought the engine was missing, but I noticed the RPM was at about 1000 RPM, very low. And a missing engine would cause a "check engine" warning.
So I think this is a combination of the CVT and the engine lugging. The CVT should move down a notch to a lower "gear" but it doesn't, so the engine is forced to operate at a problem speed. A normal transmission would downshift, I would think.
Can I do anything to solve this, other than manually shift to the low range?
My car has a left front pulling issue.
I have a 2003 Forester with 74,000 miles. At 55,000 (18 months ago) I replaced the Kumho tires with Michelin Primacy MXV4 tires and immediately had an issue where over 50-60 mph the car slightly pulls to the left under all road conditions except extreme right lane well crowned. Previously it always tracked straight, though seemingly less accurately than with the newer tires.
I've had it aligned 3 times by two different shops and they always find some small out of align issue they correct and say the problem should be better. One of them the Subaru dealer. Nobody sees a suspension issue. The tires have been rotated at least 4 times. No unusual wear. Wearing nicely. But over 50-60, while slight, it is so annoying I would love to deal with this nuisance issue which sometimes puts me out of my lane. And always to the left. I've checked tire pressure and have even over-compensated by raising the front left pressure to rid the issue but it won't quite go away.
I noticed a slightly rough ride around 70-80 mph sometimes on interstate a month back but thought it was my scalloped tires that need replacing and ignored it. Last weekend i had to go to MI from GA pulling a small enclosed tandem axle trailer (6x12). I started after work and made it to VA before stopping for the night with no problems not even at 70-80. Fueled up first thing in the morning (BP Fuel) and headed farther into the mountains when the truck started shaking when it should be downshifting (into overdrive I am guessing?)
No check engine light come on so i pulled off the road checked rear end and motor oil everything was fine, topped off tranny which was slightly low but was on dipstick .I let the truck cool for 20 min then got back going again. I continued driving with overdrive off, and not on the truck. Every time it had to downshift under hill climb it would start shaking but i would let out of the gas and it would stop. Once i got out of the mountains it was fine and couldnt tell it was running bad at low rpms, and also drove fine when i got off the interstate for fuel driving in towns.
I drove that whole day through ohio mich and back trough ohio when entering kentucky. It started to downshift and run at high rpms with no problem, and started acting up when i got back into the mountains.When the truck would go to downshift it started to shake uncontrollably again. then is when the check engine light come on and flashed. I babied in until tenn when i stopped at oriellys to hook up to scanner. scanner read misfire on 5 and ignition coil d primary secondary circuit malfunction. I checked the #5 plug (fine) and replaced the #4 coil, and didn't check the #4 plug.
t kept going and it never fixed the problem. stopped and jumped my coils around and check a few more plugs which all were fine but never that #4 (why idk), after being fed up, sat night, no mechanics around and wanting to get home i drove it the rest of the way. it never idled rough until i got almost home in Ga. When i got home the next day i pulled all plugs and all looked brand new still except the #4 which had the whole prong and tip completely burnt off. I replaced it and nothing changed, but my exhaust sounded restricted. Brought to a shop and it is now reading a misfire on 4 (with brand new plug) 5 7 and 8 and also saying it is running lean. They changed fuel filter and plugs but nothing still.
2004, f150, 4.6, 4x4, stx, short wheel base, 3:55
My car is making a sort of whining noise; it sounds like some sort of tire noise, but I checked the tires and don't see anything that could be problematic. My husband checked to see if anything was rubbing, and doesn't find anything. The car is quiet when it is not moving, and the noise gets somewhat louder and slightly higher-pitched as I accelerate. It almost seems like the noise changed on a different road surface, but again, I don't see anything different with the tires. The car has about 140-150,000 on it. The noise has only been noticeable for a couple of weeks. No other problems, no change in steering or handling. No incident that I can think of that could have been a catalyst.
View 4 RepliesMy new 2015 Subaru Forester calls for tire rotation every 6000 miles, which seems excessive to me.
View 11 RepliesIs it necessary to check (or change) the fluid levels in the CVT and the differentials?
The manual has the following confusing statement for those:
Continuously variable transmission fluid. It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. Check that there are no cracks, damage or leakage. However, the fluid inspection should be performed according to the maintenance schedule in the “Warranty and Maintenance Booklet”.
The Maintenance Booklet list inspection every 30k miles for : Transmission gear oil, CVT fluid, front and rear differential gear oil.
Another question, how is the Transmission gear oil different from the CVT fluid? And should there not be a third differential, or is that part of the transmission?
I've 2005 Subaru Forester automatic with 2.5L engine. It ran fine since I purchased it in 2005. However for the last 3 months it is behaving strangely. When it sits in the garage for 2 days or longer, it starts up very rough. It feels like the engine is misfiring. If I let it run for 10 to 15 minutes, it is back to normal!! The car has 80,000 miles. It was tuned up at 61,000 miles. I recently had a diagnostic check done. It showed no problems.
View 1 RepliesIm an outside sales rep and I drove 85k miles last year in a F-150. The time came where I needed a new company truck and now I'm in a 2015 F-250 2wd 6.2l lariat. I love the truck but my back is killing me. I've only had it a little over 3 weeks but it has over 6k miles on it. The majority of the time my bed is unloaded but there has been a few times my 1/2 ton was overloaded so i stepped up to a 3/4 ton. Ive tried lowering my tire pressure but the TPMS light comes on. I also bought sand bags to leave in the back of my truck to add weight to it when not loaded. Im about to pull the trigger on bilstein 5100s but was wondering of there is anything else I could do make the truck ride a little smoother.
View 14 Replieswill it hurt my 98' forester to drive it when one cylinder has no compression? They tell me it needs a valve job for 2,500. They already put a mass air flow sensor in, and replaced plugs and wires. Still got the miss, but I need the vehicle.
View 2 RepliesWe're talking about a 2002 Subaru Forester with only 80,000 miles on it.
This winter, the cold seems to have taken its toll. The fuel economy is bouncing around between 16 and 24 MPG and the car runs a bit roughly. Especially when it's colder (<30 F) there is often a lack of power/RPM when depressing the gas pedal. The problem is worst in city driving, but exists on the highway also. It doesn't go away during my 15-20 minute commute. For a period of a couple weeks, it was even easy to induce misfires (I think that's what they were; quiet pffft pffft pffft sounds during severe lack of power) by fully depressing the gas. But even if you half-depress and hold the pedal steady, the car will accelerate weakly and then sometimes surge forward. Other times it seems to be idling strong and running rich. Now that it's warmer (>40 F) the problem has lessened, but I've also started feeding it 93 octane gas and the car feels rougher than normal.
A year or two ago, I replaced the front oxygen sensor and spark plugs (prior to problem). This winter, I took it to a mechanic who couldn't explain the problem and replaced the spark plug wires.
Based on my reading, it seems like the only other most likely culprit is the manifold air pressure (MAP) sensor that's mounted on the intake manifold. I haven't worked up the effort (and can't find my multimeter) to do an electrical test of the MAP sensor's output itself. I'm also not keen on just buying a $270 part without sound evidence, nor paying for ill-informed guessing by lesser mechanics (than yourselves, of course!). I also have a sneaking suspicion that the automatic transmission could be slipping -- when I drive with 2 adults and two kids in the car up a hill, it seems more underpowered than days of old.
A couple weeks ago I was in a hit and run, someone in a parking space decided to not look behind them before backing up into my passenger side front door & fender. The problem didn't happen till I got home & only when I drove it the next day it started happening. Every time it hits a bump the speakers start crackling and also make loud sounds that are like pops. Also the radio work's only sometimes unless I hit the top of the dash above the deck. Also only some of the speakers work together when they do, but they transition with the bump hitting or my fist pounding the dash from pent up anger from my radio not working.
View 3 RepliesIf your getting weird squeaky noises from bumpy roads I found some resolution...remove all of the foam from the trunk that holds the tools and such. I was getting this sound that was driving me nuts and tried this and its completely quiet now....
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a used 2012 Camry SE V6. I realize the SE has a sport suspension, but around 35-50 MPH it rides very bumpy. It almost feels like I have bent wheel. I've taken it to the dealership 5+ times and they said it's the torque converter, but there is no repair for it. I went to another Toyota dealership and have the field tech drive the car.
Unfortunately, the bumpy ride started to go away and the tech didn't think it was that noticeable. A couple weeks have gone by and the bumpiness is back. Also, I have new Michelin tires put on at 16K miles and the car has only 18K on it. The wheels have been balanced and the alignment was good.