Subaru - Forester :: 2012 - Metallic Sound When Passenger Side Door Is Opened
Jun 17, 2014
I have a 2012 Forester. When I open the passenger side door first thing in the morning to put my stuff in the car and then close the door - there is a loud metallic noise. It is not repeatable at that time.When I open the driver's side door after work (or about 8 hrs after the first time in the morning) and sit in the car, I get the same noise. Again, it is not repeatable at that time.The dealer says, they cannot recreate the noise but I am getting it regularly every day.I live in Central Texas, the Forester is in the garage at my house and in the garage at work.I am currently at 27,500 miles.
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I have a 2001 Forester with approx. 130k miles 5 speed MT. Sometimes when making a low (5-15mph) speed right hand turn I hear a mild thunk thunk thunk thunk emanating from the front pax corner. The frequency seems linked to the speed. Curiously, I do not hear the noise every time I make a right and I have yet to notice a trend. My partner drives the vehicle more often than I but doesn't make any connections either.
I am relatively certain that we replaced that cv joint/axle this past June.
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While waiting at a stop light my car totally died, there were no warning lights, the car is a 2011 Subaru forester with 52,000 km. I had it pushed off the road, tried to restart it with jump cables but it would not turn over. I noticed an odd burning smell when I opened the hood. There were rat tracks on top of the engine area. I had the battery pulled out and replaced with another fully charged but it did not make a difference.
After sitting for two days, I restarted the car and the engine managed to turn over but very very rough, a mechanic thought there was something loose in the engine. I currently live in Mexico and closest subaru dealership is 5 hours away. I will need to get it towed there but I would like to have some idea of what it may be, my thought is somehow a wire got chewed off but I had driven it about 20 miles that morning and then it just stopped dead.
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I noticed something while riding as a passenger in my 1999 Subaru Forester lately. I was riding in the front passenger seat with the window down, and noticed a strange "spritzing" noise coming from the passenger side front of the vehicle. The sound is very brief, about a second in duration. I heard this repeat several times as we went down the road, and decided to time it. It turns out that this sound occurs exactly every 33 seconds while the car is in gear going down the road! It sounds like a pressure relief valve going off....but what could it be?
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My father recently purchased a 2012 Prius 3. To reduce his insurance premiums, he purchased an alarm system, which the dealer installed for him a few days after he first took the car off the lot. Now, when unlocking or locking the car from the driver's door handle sensor or via the remote, it both chirps (not the horn) and briefly sounds the horn twice or once, depending on whether you are unlocking or locking.
The problem is that when the car is unlocked from the trunk or the passenger door (using the door handle sensor with the key in pocket), this does not disarm the alarm, and the alarm will sound when the door is opened. The alarm is only disarmed when using the remote's unlock button or using the Smart Key sensor at the driver's door. One of the major differences between the 3 and 2 trims is that the 3 has Smart Key capability on the front doors and the trunk, rather than just the driver's door but the alarm has negated this benefit, as opening the trunk or passenger door without first unlocking from the driver's door or remote causes the alarm to sound.
Is this normal for a Toyota-installed alarm?
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I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester on May 15th, and now have a leak issue after heavy rains. I've brought the car into the dealer twice now (three times if you count having to bring it in the day after purchase to have a dial fixed) and they're saying they can't find or recreate the issue even after running a hose on it, and I'm extremely concerned and frustrated (honestly regretting buying the car at this point, though I do love it).
Both times I have noticed this happen, the car has been parked in torrential downpours either all day at work or overnight at home, and rain somehow seeps in and collects somewhere inside above the driver’s side, where it sits until I drive the car. It does not leak until the car moves - water does not leak to my knowledge when the car is parked.
Once the car moves from a parked position and I take a right turn, the water dumps out in about 1-3 occurrences onto my left foot (not a constant flow or predictable dump) – the water does not leak until the car is in motion and has turned right.
The dealer says they think the heat shield may be missing a grommet or something along those lines, but I don't know why they aren't able to check this to see if that's the case and fix it. They claim that they've only seen something like this once before, and it fixed itself (in other words, the person never came back after the first occurrence). It's happened to me twice now, and I know it's going to happen again, and I can't keep bringing it back over and over (and don't think I should have to).
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My door ajar light is stuck on in my 2000 Subaru Forester, whether the car is on or not. I had to replace the battery as it ran down the old one. Sometimes it goes off for a week or more at a stretch, but it always comes back on. As of now it has been on continuously for about 8 months. I have tried everything minus taking the door panels off.
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I've spent a lot of time and money putting in nice speakers and audio equipment in my 2009 forester. I also got all of the rattles and vibrations out of the interior except for the passenger side door. I've used sound dampening and checked everything I can, but somewhere on the door panel there is a vibration that I can't find. So, the only thing I can think of its too seal the various seams on the interior of the panel with something. .. caulk or glass sealant?
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I have a 2012 Subaru Forester with 27,000 miles on it. It has a rattle that started out in the glovebox area, and has migrated to areas around the dash, center console, liner by the sunroof control etc...I have had the car in the shop 5+ times, the last time being a week and a half. Everyone is baffled by this rattle. It seems to come and go. The glovebox liner was replaced, and other areas insulated, yet it still rattles, although it is not consistent.
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We recently had the blower motor replaced in my wife's 2011 CPO Hybrid. What we've noticed in the past, and which is still happening, is that with the car in park and the air conditioning blasting away, when the passenger door is opened the air conditioning stops blowing and only resumes a second or two after the door is closed. The typical scenario is something like this. Leaving lunch with the kids, I put one in the back seat and hop in the front to turn the car on. A/C starts going while wife is buckling up the other kid, when she closes the back door and opens the front passenger door the A/C stops blowing as if it completely turns off. She closes her door and it comes back on. Is this some fancy feature of the Hybrid or is something still busted?
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My MK4 golf has the rear passenger door shut, cannot be opened from inside or out. The outside handle has no tension, just floppy.
I managed to take the card off, even though I cannot open the door.
So my issue is if I keep dismantling til I get to the door lock, is there any simple way to open the door ? I've seen lots where people can change the lock if the door opens but can it be opened if the door is closed or do I somehow have to smash the lock ?
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On the passenger side where the door opens up the paint seems to be scraping off... It's pretty noticeable on my black car. It's only this one side.. The door doesn't touch that piece so I'm not sure what caused it.
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What is the point of being able to start the A/C if it shuts down as soon as a door is opened? I'm not talking about using the feature when the charging system is active, but rather when the car has been sitting in the sun, such as while one is grocery shopping, etc.
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I am having this strange problem with my 2014 Camry: When the door is opened, the dome light turns on but the map lights do not, unless I physically press the light cover to turn them on - and they stay on indefinitely even when the door is closed. Is this worth taking to the dealership or is there a quick fix? Strange I never experienced something like this before.
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I have considerable road noise coming from both the driver and from passenger sides; have done a little research and found this to be a persistent problem with most Subaru models with frame-less doors.
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I made an appointment with the stealership on Monday morning to take a look at my passenger side door. I took a long trip (600 miles roundtrip) and noticed a buzzing/rattling noise when I was going faster than 65-70 miles an hour on the interstate. And on top of that, when I play songs with a heavy, flat bass, the door gets a very noticeable rattle. When the bass punches, it's fine, but not so much otherwise.
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I can't find in the owners manual where It explains about the bells with exiting our 2013 SE V6. Sometimes I hold the brake pedal and hit the start/stop button to shut off the engine, sometimes I don't hold the brake pedal and hit the start/stop button to shut off the engine. Sometimes I do either of those methods and the Wife opens the passenger door, sometimes she isn't with me and just the driver door opens. What happens is sometimes when I open the driver door a bell chimes.........ding, ding, ding. Sometimes it doesn't chime. I'm just trying to figure out what this intermittent chiming is all about?????? Is it a warning, a notification and if a notification what is it notifying us about?
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Well, we let my son take our 2009 Subaru Forester across the country to college, and of course, the car seems to be having issues now. He says he is hearing a "sloshing" sound under the car towards the rear (cargo area) whenever he stops or goes over speed bumps. He insists that he has looked under seats and in crevices for loose items with liquid in them, and nothing. He also hasn't noticed (yet) any spots on the ground under the car.
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When I make sharp turns forward left or right and when I back up and turn left or right my car feels wobbly/grinding. My mechanic says he thinks it "may" be the rear differential needing servicing. I have 135,000 miles. Does that sound right? There is no noise associated with this sensation.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester past warranty. I remove the key from the ignition switch and open the door I get the chime and the doors will not lock with the remote. If I pull the key out rapidly it usually works okay. The Subaru garage wants to replace all locks to fix the problem. That seems excessive to me.
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I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
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