Subaru - Forester :: 2010 - Works Fine If Key Pulled Out Rapidly - Door Won't Lock With Remote?
Sep 29, 2014
I have a 2010 Subaru Forester past warranty. I remove the key from the ignition switch and open the door I get the chime and the doors will not lock with the remote. If I pull the key out rapidly it usually works okay. The Subaru garage wants to replace all locks to fix the problem. That seems excessive to me.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester 2.5x, and I've been struggling with the air conditioner for over a year.
The AC works amazingly when the car has been shaded / in a garage (even if the garage is not air conditioned - so the garage temp is probably still 90 degrees). The problem is when I've parked the car outside in a sunny area. Then, it takes about 25 minutes for the AC to blow cold air consistently. In this case, the fan w blow hot air with tiny spurts of cool-ish air, but nothing that meaningfully cools my car. I live in Texas, so the car is HOT; I'm not expecting instantaneous cooling, but after 3-5 minutes of driving, I would hope it would be getting cooler in the car.
I park in full sun at work, and then drive to pick my kids up from daycare. The car is hot and stays hot until we are home. Of course, I roll down the windows, but I'm always pulling the kids out of the car sweaty and overheated. Lately, it's turned super-warm, so this is getting more miserable and dangerous for the kids.
Coolant was replaced seven months ago with little effect. What could be causing this, although I suspect it's something related to overheating / a sensor or thermostat since it only happens when the car has been parked in the sun. Internet sleuthing reveals everything from o-rings, compressor, compressor clutch, oiling the bearings or clutch plate, cylinder head gasket, etc.
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I have 2011 elantra, front driver power door lock only works sometimes.
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Why my alarm is not chirping anymore when you lock the door with remote. Can hear the doors lock but no chirp. When you disarm, two chirps and the doors unlock. How to get back to Chirping? Put brand new batteries in both key alarm set and cleaned. Has not worked
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I have a 99 Forester L. My headlights, taillights, fog lights and dash lights don't work. checked all fuses both under hood and on driver side. Relays are fine bulbs are good as well as switch its self.
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My Keyless remote control is "DEAD" however my system is somehow engaged. In order to start my 99 Subaru Forester I need to reach under my dashand hold in the emergency override button. Car starts fine every time. Is it difficult to unwire this keyless system? I'm not going to keep this car much longer. Will probably replace car before end of 2013. Easy fix or keep driving as is? Any possible problems if I keep starting car with button release?
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Whenever I open the door to get out of the car after it locks itself the lock rapidly engages and disengages until I push lock or unlock on the key fob. I hope the actuator isn't going bad. And wanted to see if there was something I could do to fix it before replacing the whole thing.
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Over the last 2 days, I have a weird issue with my 2013 Forester. When I turn the car off and remove the key I get a beeping like the alarm system and lock system engaged but the doors do not lock nor is the alarm activated. The car and security system work fine. No burnt out head or taillight and doors are fully closed.
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I have a 2011 Avalon. The power door locks will all lock with the door button and the remote key. The problem is that only the drivers door will unlock with either method, what a pain.
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I just purchased an '02 Camry. All doors lock with remote and interior door lock buttons. Only driver door unlocks with remote and door lock buttons. I have seen other posts with this issue, but not a clear solution.
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When our 2008 Outback (75K miles) is running the garage door remote in the car will not open or close the door. New batteries in the remote, so that can't be the cause. We have to turn the car motor off, operate the remote, then start the car again. We have to follow the same procedure when getting back into the garage. This just started about a month ago and does not happen with any of the other cars in the garage when opening or closing the same door, i.e. the remotes operate with their motors running. Is it possible there is some new electrical discharge from the car that is causing this? Something unusual with the alternator? Other possible causes?
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This has never happened while I'm driving the car, but when it is parked and the engine is off, the remote lock beep (the single beep which signifies the car is locked) is going off. Not often, for awhile I only noticed it at night and frankly thought the cat was walking over my wife's purse and setting the dang thing off... but no. I was just in the kitchen, both sets of keys on the counter next to me as I put away dishes and the beep went off. Nothing and no one touched the keys. Is this a sign the remote lock is dying?
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Ok, I'm bit confused with how this remote works and how the factory set up is suppose to be.
1. Drove the car at night with light on "on"
2. Got out, turn the lights off
3. close the door
4. try to open the hatch, realized it was locked, so press the "open" button and i see my headlight turning back on?
I thought its suppose to stay off? I hate for the lights to turn on and off all the time when I press the switch.
When its suppose to turn on? I thought the light stays off when the light switch is on "off" position.
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My door ajar light is stuck on in my 2000 Subaru Forester, whether the car is on or not. I had to replace the battery as it ran down the old one. Sometimes it goes off for a week or more at a stretch, but it always comes back on. As of now it has been on continuously for about 8 months. I have tried everything minus taking the door panels off.
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I've spent a lot of time and money putting in nice speakers and audio equipment in my 2009 forester. I also got all of the rattles and vibrations out of the interior except for the passenger side door. I've used sound dampening and checked everything I can, but somewhere on the door panel there is a vibration that I can't find. So, the only thing I can think of its too seal the various seams on the interior of the panel with something. .. caulk or glass sealant?
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I have a 2012 Forester. When I open the passenger side door first thing in the morning to put my stuff in the car and then close the door - there is a loud metallic noise. It is not repeatable at that time.When I open the driver's side door after work (or about 8 hrs after the first time in the morning) and sit in the car, I get the same noise. Again, it is not repeatable at that time.The dealer says, they cannot recreate the noise but I am getting it regularly every day.I live in Central Texas, the Forester is in the garage at my house and in the garage at work.I am currently at 27,500 miles.
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I recently bought a 2010 Toyota Corolla. I have been having some issues with the A/C. The A/C seems to work fine when the car is moving but when it is idle it gets warmer. I have recently gotten the freon checked and they put in some more but that didn't work, same problem still happening. Somebody told me that i need a extra fan which didn't make sense to me. Last resort will be to take it to the dealership to have them check. Once again the A/C blows cold air when the car is going over 50 MPH.
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I have a Camry 2011 LE (US) and it is giving me this problem for last few weeks. The doors lock fine with the key fob and the lock button on the doors however only driver side door unlocks when i try to unlock it.
The car does not has any starting problem and it still does not work when the car is started and moving. I have even tried a friend's battery to double check if its a battery issue but it does not seems like its that problem since my car starts just fine.
I have been searching on the internet for the problem and read somewhere it could be a Relay problem and i was able to find two relays in the fuse box. But I just don't know if its legit to try replacing the Relay and if yes which relay control doors.
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The driver side door doesn't lock unlock from the remote usually. But it does work sometimes. I think the remote battery might not be the problem, because the other doors open and close fine. Could i repair it myself?
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Lock seems to be stuck. I have to use the key. Other doors unlock with the remote once I have opened driver door with key. It is a 1998 Honda CRV with 103,692 miles in good shape. This problem may occur on all types of cars. Can it be repaired...
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I tried the manual and search here but did not find how to switch this feature on and off. When I bought the car, I could use the remote to lock the doors while a door is open, such as when I am stepping out of the car. Then when the door shuts, it beeps to confirm a lock. This feature went away, and now it won't do anything while a door is open; presumably to keep me from locking my keys in the car. I can't stand this feature, it's like a damn Honda, protecting me from myself! How to switch this back?
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