Subaru - Forester :: 2006 - Check Engine Code P2097
Jul 30, 2013
The check engine light on my 2006 Subaru Forester with 92,000 miles came on recently. A scan revealed the engine was running lean. After three more trips the mechanic determined the rear O2 sensor was bad and replaced it. This was the only part replaced. Now the computer is sending code P2097; Post Catalyst Fuel Trim System Too Rich Bank 1. I have read it could be anything from the catalytic converter needs replacing to "resetting the adaptation values."
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2002 Subaru Forester I took my car to the Auto Zone to read a check engine code. It came back as being a "knock sensor". Besides that I needed a battery, and when the guy was putting it in he said my engine was moving too much and that I probably needed motor mounts.
I was looking at a discussion back in 2010 and the Subaru specialist told the person needing motor mounts is rare for a Subaru, is that true? I'm taking it to a mechanic, what should I expect? how many motor mounts does a subaru have?
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Keeps coming on when car is cold.
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I just bought a 2006 Subaru forester with 130K miles. Recently, the check engine light came and at the same time the cruise control started flashing. I brought it to the mechanic who said I had a bad catalytic converter. The car seems to be running just fine and now a day later the engine light is off.
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Engine light came on two weeks ago. Had the code read at Advance Auto Parts. Code = P0420. The only performance issue was that it stalled when I started it the other day for the first time since I bought it last fall. Are there any other clues to tell what it could mean (catalytic converter vs. 02 sensor vs. anything else)? Is it really worth trying some kind of catalytic converter cleaner product?
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I have a 2002 Forester I have take it to 4 shops and each shop tells me something different. First 2 say to take it to the dealer and have them flash the computer. The dealer says that it is a faulty drain valve and the fourth states he has never heard of a drain valve. Hook up to a scanner and can not clear light. Unhooked battery for 30 minutes light was off for a minute but came back on. Getting extremely frustrated!
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I have a 2001 forester. it had a misfire which has been fixed but I can't get the "check engine" light to turn off.
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Our beloved 2004 Subaru Forester has the check engine light on. We've been told that the 4th cylinder has either low or no compression. Is this fixable/worth fixing? Would you replace the engine? The car has 183K miles on it, and runs great! It is stuttering now, due to this issue, but otherwise - runs great and is in good condition!
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 95,000 miles on it. Earlier today the CEL (solid) and cruise (flashing) came on while I was driving. I believe it may have occurred as I was accelerating up hill. I filled up yesterday, so I tightened the gas cap when I stopped. On my way home, I stopped by my mechanic and they read the code; P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold Bank was the code that was read. They reset the code for me but told me that the catalytic converter is what needs to be replaced.
My question: Could the light coming on be incidental (i.e., is it possible that it was a "blip" and my catalytic converter is okay?)? My mechanic said he thinks it is, and that my car should last me quite a bit longer. I am asking because I've put in a bit of money into the car of late and I'm wondering if I should just jump ship. I should say that the majority of the repairs are maintenance (e.g., brakes, tires).
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I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with a little over 119,000 miles.
For the past several weeks, maybe a month, it has been making a weird noise... it comes from the 'engine' area... my husband thinks it might be a belt or something. Sometimes there is a burning smell, especially if we're on a long trip, going uphill... but the smell isn't always.
The sound sounds like... a remote control car that you push with your hands, instead of using the remote control. So it's kind of like a winding/whining sound... the sound happens when it is in park, and drive, whether I'm driving or at a stop.
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For longer than I'd like to reveal, my Forester has shifted extremely hard. This happens only when the engine is cold and disappears entirely once it heats up. Also, the RPMs go high just before the shift. When it does shift, it feels as if the engine is going to self-destruct from the sound and rough feeling --as if the entire engine or at least some part of it were going to fall to the ground. After it shifts, it feels as if the car shoots forward like a rocket. The Subaru dealer changed the transmission fluid and reset the computer. The problem persists.
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I have a 2007 L.L. Bean Edition Forester. The cruise light is flashing and check engine light is solid. I am well into my retirement age and nearest dealer is about 2 hours away. Is this something that local mechanic can fix? He is very good, but not Subaru schooled. I'm afraid to drive it now.
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Is it necessary to check (or change) the fluid levels in the CVT and the differentials?
The manual has the following confusing statement for those:
Continuously variable transmission fluid. It is not necessary to check the transmission fluid level. Check that there are no cracks, damage or leakage. However, the fluid inspection should be performed according to the maintenance schedule in the “Warranty and Maintenance Booklet”.
The Maintenance Booklet list inspection every 30k miles for : Transmission gear oil, CVT fluid, front and rear differential gear oil.
Another question, how is the Transmission gear oil different from the CVT fluid? And should there not be a third differential, or is that part of the transmission?
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I purchased a 2001 Subaru Forester about 4 years ago. Within 48 hours of buying it from a dealer, the check engine light came on showing the PO420 code. The car was running fine without any problems and it was suggested to us by 2 independent mechanics that Subaru is notorious for throwing this code, so we didn't investigate it any farther besides doing a fuel system clean/flush that was offered to us by the dealer.
Lately, the car has started sort of shuddering during acceleration so we figure it's time to look into this more, but just trying to figure out where to start. From what I understand, this model has 2 catalytic converters and 2-3 O2 sensors. I've been reading as much as I can on the topic and watching videos trying to figure out our options and whether we should try replacing the O2 sensors first or just go for replacing the whole shebang. I know we cannot afford the pricey repair of it all right now so the car will have to sit for quite some time before we can do that; however, if we can figure out how to do it ourselves, we could get it done much sooner.
My questions are:What is the likelihood that this could still be an O2 sensor issue considering the shuddering when accelerating?
What other signs do I look for besides rattling in the cats to know they might be bad?
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I have a 2002 Subaru Forester L with 178,000 miles on it. I just had the valves adjusted. I have replaced the coil pack, #2 injector, plugs, wires, and throttle position sensor. I have also cleaned the idle air controller. The car only shows sign of a miss when it idles. It gets great gas mileage otherwise. I am at a loss on what to do next as the car doesn't have a MAF sensor, I can't do anything with it.
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Got a 98 Subaru Forester with 130,000mi. Good car so far. Just got a good deal on a scanner and it reports 1 code - PO0400. I see it mean EGR flow error. What is the most probable cause or a troubleshoot process to narrow it down? My repair manuals on the car are kind of lacking and I can't even find the blasted EGR valve! I thought I found it but I think it's the knock sensor.
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I took my car to my previous shop for a P0325, Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction. They wanted nearly $500 to fix it. My new shop said that I just needed some engine treatment and the code went away for a week and a half, but it came back yesterday, and my engine ran a little rough.
I heard what sounded like a very rough engine and it was my car. The technician came in saying that I was only running on two cylinders, but that sounds like far worse of a problem than I had been experiencing. They say that I need a $266.80 valve adjustment, which is all labor, but the total is $300 more than that:
Engine Light diagnostic: $44.99 Shop Fee: 35.00 Tune up package Remove and replace spark plugs: 60.03 Additional access time - remove: 64.20 and replace spark plugs: NGK Spark Plugx4: 9.96 Adjust Valve Clearance: 266.80 Pepguard Limited Extended Labor: 58.65 Warranty BWD Custom fit ignition set: 36.39
Parts: 46.35 Labor: 436.02 Other: 93.65 Tax: 6.55 Total: 582.57
Of course, my roommate, who is upset that I am not continually pouring fluids into leaky power steering and AC systems butted in and said the entire thing is preposterous. Problems with cylinder firing are invariably the result of bad spark plugs andor wires.
Well, they say that I need to replace those, which cost $46.35, the least expensive entry in the entire estimate. They just want to charge $124.23 to replace them.
Why don't I replace them myself and see if that fixes my problems?
They say that if the valve clearance adjustment does not fix the problem then I need new cylinders and valves.
Regretfully, I have a "service plan:""Engine: All internally lubricated parts contained within the engine block, cylinder head(s) or rotary engine housing(s); oil pump; timing belt or chain, timing gears and timing tensioners; water pump; engine block, cylinder barrels, engine head(s), rotor housing(s) if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part. Dipstick and tube; harmonic balancer; oil pan; timing chain cover."
I cannot imagine that it would cover a valve clearance adjustment and they would only cover cylinders and valves "if damaged by the failure of an internally lubricated part."
So, ride my bike eight miles tomorrow, replace the spark plugs and wires, and hope that it is enough?
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At 56,000+ miles on my 2006 Forester, I was horribly shocked to learn while having 60,000 maintenance done that my head gasket was leaking. inclusive of timing belt replacement required. I have read some discussions in this vein, but none regarding a car with this few miles on it. It does not seem right. I have had other issues with this car, my 2nd forester. I do not know what I should do.
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My 2004 Outback now has 120K, has always been maintained and repaired at the dealership (except tires and battery), and has always run great! I've had the plastick-y parts replaced over the last few years including head gaskets when one cracked and made smoke. In July I got a jump from a AAA tow truck, who said my battery tested as needing replacement.
In September my check engine light went on, and the dealer found the code PO420-catalyst system efficiency. They didn't seem to look any further into causes. The cat converter replacement was to cost $2521. They reportedly tested the battery as OK as part of their routine checkup. I declined the new cat converter till learning more. Meanwhile, my check engine light seemed to cycle on, then off, then on, then off . . . every several days.
In December I had the battery checked at Sears, who replaced it under warranty. So I guess it wasn't okay after all. After that my check engine light stayed off for somewhat longer than usual, then back on for most of January. I was just about to give in and get the repair done when it cycled off briefly a few days ago.
I've lost trust in the dealership because of their battery check which differed from others before and after theirs; and for their lack of specific diagnostics. The light is back on and I don't know what to do next.
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My 2000 Forester has 96,000 miles on it. A few months ago, the CEL came on. At first it would turn off every couple of days but would eventually pop back on. I first thought it was tied to putting gas in the car, now I think it was just a coincidence.
Over the past two months, I have replaced the catalytic converter with a aftermarket piece (done by a mom and pop muffler shop) and replaced the front o2 sensor three times. The first two times, I used Bosch sensors from an auto parts store and had the code cleared. After about 50 miles the CEL came back on. Just yesterday, I picked my car up from the dealership where they installed a Subaru fron o2. After about 30 miles, the light is back on again. Code is P0133 - heated oxygen sensor, bank 1 sensor 1, circuit slow response.
Now, the dealership is suggesting I need to replace the catalytic converter with a Subaru converter before they can source the issue.
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At a bit over 43K miles the check engine light came on with a blinking cruise light. Dealer has confirmed that both secondary injection pumps have failed for reasons unknown. I think this is part of the pollution control system.
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