Subaru - Baja :: 2005 - Front Tire Stutters On Hard Turns
Apr 19, 2016
2005 Subaru Baja. The front right tire stutters-- like it's running over gravel-- after 2-30 minutes of high speed driving, when the car is hot and it's a hard turn like turning into a parking space. Over the last two years or so the transmission was replaced, along with clutch and both front CV joints. Brakes and rotors replaced, and two calipers bored out. Differential was replaced. two different mechanics could not replicate the problem mostly because it required the 30 minutes of driving. But it happens to me every day going to/from work.
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My tonneu cover locks that came stock with the vehicle when I bought it back in 2005 are rusted through and inoperable. I tried to buy parts from subaru parts dealer but apparently they no longer carry the locks anymore as this is a discontinued vehicle. Where I can get one (locks) or if another type of lock will work? Also the handle on my bed door gets stuck in the open position when I open it up and it wont release from the open position unless I force the latch back into the closed position and it will then latch back up. I tried some lubricant but still wont release to the closed position when I pull the handle.
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I have recently purchased a 2003 Subaru Baja Sport, the car of my dreams! I purchased the car in NC and drove it where I live in SC which is over 250 miles. The car smelled of petroleum based fluid and/or cleaner. I just thought the dealership cleaned the engine or oil may have been spilled during maintenance. A few weeks later, I had it in the dealership and they checked out. The head gaskets were replaced and the problem was to be solved…Nope!
Every time the car is driven on a long trip and the engine/transmission gets hot the smell returns and there are other problems as well. The car will shutter from start through the gear change to 2nd (it’s a manual 5-speed). It also has a “bumping” sound coming from the from the front wheel area during a sharp turn at low speeds, again only after a long trip.
I am clueless to what the issue could be and my dealership/mechanic cannot determine the cause either because of the necessary drive time to get the car to present the issues.
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Over the past 6 years, searching for this problem--burning rubber smell coming from the heater in y 2003 Baja. Not so bad if the re-circulation is on, not so bad outside the car, can be smelled beneath the hood, but unbearable inside. It isn't plastic, oil, fluid, gaskets, wiring, it's rubber, like burning tires. Was barely noticeable when I bought the car 6 years ago, making me think it was just the tires, but it has gotten worse and worse and worse. Sometimes it takes 50 miles to happen, sometimes two, but when it does, I have to open the windows or shut off the blower.
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03 Baja, 4cyl, automatic. 195,000+Every now and again I get a fuel smell. Full tank, empty tank, half a tank... doesn't seem to matter. Usually switching up the gas I put in clears the issue. This time, not so much. Really strong and causing me to banish the car for the garage due to it stinking up the house.The odor MAY be coming from the left/drivers side of the car. (I only say this as if it is outside in the parking lot, I notice it more on that side.
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I have a 2005 Ford Focus zx5, which has been a great car for me so far. I live in DC, and traffic is insane. Over the last year or so, maybe once every other month, my car has turned off when I come to a hard stop (usually braking suddenly at a light/pedestrian walkway). This is my first time owning an automatic, and it's just as if my car had stalled out. The radio will stay on, etc, but the engine dies and I have to put it into park and re-start it.
The RPMs have seemed to fluctuate a bit as well, usually on start-up or on hot days.
So far I haven't been motivated enough to get it taken care of, since it happens so infrequently and things seem great otherwise. What could be causing this?
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2005 S60 with 98k miles on it. The LOW BRAKE FLUID light (Red triangle/Urgent) comes on for about a second or two on really hard turns. Do I need new brakes maybe? Or awhile to go? Or maybe the sensor is sensitive??
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I've been having a lot of noise coming from the front left tire, and I finally had it diagnosed as a bad wheel bearing today.
I noticed that the front wheel bearings are sold individually while the rear wheel bearings are sold as hub assemblies. Is there a certain way that the front wheel bearings have to be removed and pressed on? I'm trying to see if this is a DIY repair.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester that looses pressure in the front left tire much more quickly than the other 3 tires. For example, I just filled up all 4 tires to 33PSI, and when I checked it a week or two later, the front left was at 26PSI, while the other 3 were still at 32-33PSI. In the past, the tire pressure light has come on because the front left tire managed to get as low as 16PSI, while the other 3 tires were still at ~26PSI. Is it possible to have a small leak that leaks a couple PSI per week?
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I have a 20th with 106k on it and I notice mostly my right front rubbing on hard turns. Suspension is totally stock other than a 28mm rear sway. Is it possible that's causing it or is my suspension just getting old? No spacer on the fronts.
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I have a 2013 Subaru Impreza with 23,500 miles on it; all service done at dealer, by the book. Brought car in at 22,212 miles for rotational noise in front right tire area that becomes noticeable at 35 mph and syncs with speed of wheel (especially annoying at highway speeds). tires were at 6/32, inside edge 'slightly chopped'. Alignment was done; right rear toe out of adjustment. the noise remained.
returned to dealer; manager took a ride with, said he heard the noise, said tires (the originals) might be made of softer rubber and wear faster, or it might be a wheel bearing starting to go. he did a visual check of tires and measured tread. they replaced the right bearing. Noise still there.
Returned to dealer, they road tested , heard the noise, ran car on lift and 'traced to center of transmission', ordered a Subaru remanufactured transmission and installed it. the noise remains . I was especially shocked at replacement of transmission! (car is still under warranty so it's not costing me anything but grief and aggravation at no resolution).
I have always felt the problem is at the wheel, but i'm no mechanic. they are the experts. Could it be a problem with defective brake parts that somehow are rubbing or if the lugs are tightened too far could that bend something. I am not a street racer and I drive like I plan to keep the car for a long time!
When I called (after the transmission replacement) about the driver one-touch window not working, the desk guy told me how to reset it (very easy) and said that they'd forgotten to do that. I told him that the noise is still there and he said "well, it could be coming from the roof rack" (I have non-Subaru cross bars on the roof rack and a fairing. I thought that comment was lame as the crossbars have been on since 2013 and I've heard no rotational noise from them. However, to 'rule out', I will remove them and take a drive.
I told desk guy I was going to drive the car for a week or so because conditions have not been optimal with bumpy roads and weather to be completely certain. several days have passed since that conversation; the noise is still there and once I've driven without the crossbars on, the car is going back.I am hoping for feedback on what to tell them to check next.
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115,000 miles, adult driven. Hard cranking, took into dealer. Replaced 4 injectors - cylinder 2 misfiring. Showed me return gas line clogged with brownish material. Dealer stymied.
Now, Subaru headquarters diagnoses replacing all steel fuel lines, fuel rails, fuel pump...full of rust from inside. Tank looks Ok, as does filler neck. Premium gas used always, added Drygas seasonally as needed.
Question: where the heck would rust come from? What can I do to prevent this problem again? Love the car...would like to get 200,000 from it.
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I have a 1998 Gr Cherokee with an automatic tranny. It is slow to shift when cold and the overdrive shifting works reasonably well but I have been told by a reputable mechanic that the tranny needs a new tranny filter at over $1000. My latest check of the tranny fluid and the level and quality indicates both are good. Should I replace the tranny filter?
Also, for the same above vehicle, when I put the vehicle into a moderately hard turn (right and left), the front wheels audibly click and you can feel the click vibration in the steering wheel when happening.
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Had crunching sounds from front passenger side. Replaced CVJ shaft and hub bearing/assembly noise gone but tire turns hard by hand drivers side turns freely. Looked on line and guy had same thing going on said maybe 4x4 vacuum actuator might be bad and truck stuck in four wheel .does this sound right? I have manual trans and gear box so I don't understand why the actuator is even there.
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99, 1.8T, 215K:: Drove 10 minutes fine, turned off, turned back on, stumbling to get an idle...stays steady at 900RPM (normal enough), but engine shutters, hard to accelerate (slow pickup), a bit louder... (limp-home mode)
I am thinking Air mass meter based off of old SAAB Turbo experience, and am going to get it plugged in to check codes.
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Just started doing it last week some time and only happens when I am launching it from stop or grabbing gears hard.
This is a little idea on whats happening.. At stop light next to some random ricer.. maintaining 2500 rpms on tach
drop (stage 4) clutch on green
Car squeaks and dies out like a stall and dash lights flash as well as lights on controll/radio area (around abs light) radio shuts off like a stall.
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My 05 f150 is lift with a 6" skyjacker lift I've only had it a week from the dealership when it stopped firing on cylinder 8 which is a lil problem easy to fix,but then it started clunking around turns in the front and rear end. So I took it the dealer and 3 days later they give it back. It's running good but its still clunking in the front they said they changed the cv joints and tie rod ends but after I got home. I inspected it they changed one damn tie rod and that was it. Is it the tie rod end that's still making the noise?
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2005 Subaru 2.5 Limited Outback. If I drive my Outback for over an hour, when I make sharp turns at a low speed in a parking lot my front end doesn't seem to turn right. As a I turn it seems like maybe the front differential is not working right, both wheels want to spin a the same rate. what could cause this?
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My friend has a 2005 Subaru Impreza RS (2.5 L) that just (today) started making what amounts to a clicking or thumping sound once the car reaches about 30 mph. I'm sure it does it at slower speeds, but I was unable to hear it. It is definitely in the front end. And seems to be coming from the drivers side. I asked if she had hit any large potholes recently, and the answer was no. Around three weeks ago she had studded snow tired mounted on the car. I don't think the tires are the issue. But perhaps the installation process may have played a part since the care was placed on a lift.
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I just replaced both front strut mounts on my 2005 Outback 3.0L. I was 100% sure that it would resolve an ongoing noise/rattle in the front end when driving over bumps and generally rough roads. It worked with some of the noise because the strut mount bearings were shot. But much to my disappointment after putting everything back together I still have a rattle (more like the sound when you shake a shoe box with a tennis ball inside it) in the right front suspension somewhere. When lifted the right front wheel is solid with no wobble left to right or top to bottom so I"m thinking it is not a tie rod but I am not a professional mechanic. Should I take the right front strut back off and check the new mount or is there an easier answer.
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My car recently got a code for the camshaft sensor after my car died in the middle of street and the engine light turned on. I had gotten it replaced. In fact, I had both (left and right) camshaft sensors replaced and we changed out the crankshaft sensor as well. Then, a new problem comes up.
My car does not accelerate as strongly as it used to. In first gear (car is automatic), my car seems to struggle to get in 2nd gear. Imagine the feeling of your car when you keep it in 1st gear (in a stick-shift) and you KNOW that's the point of having to shift into 2nd, but you keep driving anyway. Then, once it does shift gears, my car jolts forward with a big drop in RPM. Imagine the feeling of finally shifting your manual transmission into 2nd gear and feeling that "relief" in the engine as it doesn't seem to struggle anymore. What's worse is that at higher speeds/gear my Pathfinder won't go beyond 4000 RPM. I'm driving at around 65 mph and the car is at 2500 RPM. When it hits 4000 RPM, the RPM just ticks before it and my car stutters back and forth as if I'm playing a beat with my car by hitting the breaks.
An example scenario, I'm driving on the highway and there's a slower car in front of me. I just want to pass the person and be on my way but as I press on the gas, my RPMs don't really increase as it normally would when applying more gas to go faster. Once I do finally get to 4000 RPM, my car starts to stutter or rock back and forth as if hitting an invisible wall. Are there tons of reasons that this could happen?
On the other hand, I tested my car, in park, to see if my engine would rev pass 4000 RPM, and it does. So, the problem presents itself only when I'm driving.
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