Subaru :: 2002 - Vibration After Axle Replacement
Jul 7, 2014
2002 Subaru-Passenger side axle replaced due to leak. Afterwards, car in drive, pulling up to a stop car vibrates, BUT if I let the car roll forward a bit it usually stops. My mechanic has played with the idle but doesn't seem to be fixing the problem.
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I have a 2001 b5.5 passat sedan i recently picked up for cheap. The car was on cut springs and blown struts. I just installed JOM blue Line coilovers on it to solve the suspension problem. While i was doing this i realized both the cv boots were torn and needed replacing. I replaced the axles. The passat is a 1.8t with tip tronic trans. After i did the axles when i put the car in drive and let it idle i get a fairly noticeable vibration through out the car. It does not happen while driving or while in neutral. This did not happen before i did the axles. It doesnt make much sense to me?
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The other day while putting on some highway miles on a smooth road I experienced some new vibrations. Not good vibrations, unfortunately. She is an 02 Leg Wagon with 115,000 miles. The vibration was low amplitude and relatively high frequency and was most noticeable at 65 mph or above. Although pronounced at the steering column, the vibration seemed to be throughout the car. Struts? Motor mounts? Imagination? I cant handle the truth?
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My Forester was dead one morning and when I went to jump it off my pick-up in a hurry I did the age old palm to forehead and didn't pay close attention to the posts on my pick-up battery. Crossed the posts.So I began working through the common known issues.Replaced the main fuse. Didn't Start.Replaced the battery. Started... Car shut off while driving. Did not sputter out, simply cut out like turning the key off.Started right back up.Positive battery cable was loose. Replaced it.Grounds are good.Alternator output is good.So here are some more details on the car shutting off.
This last time as I was coming home from the store and the car shut off on the main road through town. I had enough momentum to get off to the side of the road. I tried to start it and it would turn over. Normal turn over sound but the car wouldn't start. I took a minute to check other electrical things in the car with key in the "on" position. Radio worked. Dome/interior lights worked. But then I noticed something strange. None of the dash lights came on (Car is not started but key is in "on" position). The windows did not work either.It started after about 5 minutes time and I made it home, forgot to roll the windows back up. Turned key to "on" again and couldn't roll the windows up. Got out of the car and came back after about 5 minutes, turned key to "on" and the dash lights came on the windows rolled up.
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My 2013 Passat 2.5L auto transmission needs to have the right (passenger) CV Axle Shaft replaced. It has 76k miles and has developed a clicking noise when making sharpish left hand turns. I listen to the stereo a little louder these days, but in the back of my mind, I know it's got to be fixed.
I did a search on this forum, but didn't see any direct detailed info on DYI replacement. It seems pretty simple, but the previous Passat models used bolts for the axle-transmission connection. The B7 uses a splined shaft into the tranny with no bolts. Any tricks for removing it from the tranny or fitting back into the tranny?
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The axle seal is bad on my 93 Explorer, manual, 4x4 both sides. The shocks and leaf springs are also shot. Instead of replacing the seals, was advised to just replace the entire axle and pick one up at the boneyard with springs.
I am wondering what axles from other vehicles will work? I have been able to find this before through RockAuto's website but there is no information concerning rear axle. Is there a source showing interchangeable parts between vehicles? Aside from the body, Explorer is basically rebuilt now, just needs the gearbox replaced.
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I have some vibration issues with my car and i think it can be related to my left frontaxle, as i saw it was leaking a little under inspection. The vibration is not there when just rolling, it happens only when i give it a little load, like in high gears and low speed and light throttle and is gone when leaving off throttle. The vibration is felt in the steering wheel and in whole car. The strange with all this is that some days there is nothing and some days it is there constant, it seems to change with the weather, if its colder outside, can it still be the axle? I have contacted raxles 2-3 times without any response so my solution is to buy a oem axle for high $$ and see if the problem will be solved.
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I have a 2008 Outback and I just got news from my repairman that says there is a leak in the head gasket and one of my axle boots is cracking. The axle boot is not the major concern, but is it worth it to spend $ to get it fixed or should I say "Hasta La Vista" and look into buying a new car? I hit a deer and thoroughly damaged the front end about a year and a half ago and I am not sure if that has "shakin' things up".
I currently have about 85K miles on the car. I don't mind repairing the car if it doesn't turn into the Money Pit.
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I just bought a 2007 Lexus ES 350 last month with 40k miles and I LOVE the car. I took it in for it's first oil change today at the dealership and they found a leak in the passenger side axle. There was grease all over the place and they told me I needed a new axle. They mentioned it looked like the damage was pretty recent. There is a remanufactured Lexus part they offered for $300. If I let them replace it, the total including an alignment will cost me $650. My question is.... Can I buy the part and replace it myself, then get the alignment done at the dealer to avoid all the labor fees. I consider myself mechanically inclined. Have done my own fair share of maintenance work from oil changes to valve cover gasket replacements.
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I'm almost 99% positive I need to replace my Drivers Front Axle Assembly. I can feel it "click" when I reverse down my drive way and at low speeds regardless whether I turn the wheel. However, at street speeds, you can no longer feel it. I wanted to know if all Axles aftermarket are created equal.
Can I go with the one from ECS : [URL] ..... Or is this a part where staying OEM is important?
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I have an 04 Limited, 6.0 PSD, 4x4 which I need to replace the front inner axle seals, the right side is leaking out the shaft. I have watched a couple of YouTube videos on how it is done but would like to get some first hand knowledge and recommendations.
First, how important is it to check the backlash before beginning the removal of the gear assembly? Do I need to remove the pinion gear as well or just the gear assembly?
How difficult is it to get everything back on place once the seals are replaced? I have not done this type of repair before and am concerned I might miss something.
I am planning to replace all the ball joints at this time also, this was the primary reason for this maintenance in the first place.
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Recent axle replacement and now I've noticed that there is some annoying vibration under hard acceleration and at speeds around 65+.
I just read that cheap replacement axles suck. However, I also read that the OEM are hollow and the cheapos are solid. Could only replacing one side cause there to be some sort of imbalance and cause the vibration?
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Driving home from work today I hit the largest pothole in my life (seriously). I had a slight vibration between 40-50mph after the impact. Got home took the wheel off and it bent it partially and bubbled the sidewall of the tire. No worries I have the VW wheel/tire protection and can get it repaired and get a new tire. What really concerns me is the right side axle. It clearly hit the frame of the car and is indented slightly. As I turn the axle by hand I can tell it's slightly off on one side. My question is do I need a new axle? Or do you think the indent is throwing me off when I spin it making it look unbalanced?
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I replaced my right front axle a week ago because I was getting severe popping/clicking noises. The boot was torn on the axle and I had grease all over the inside of my rim etc...
The popping/clicking sound was gone immediately after replacing the axle. Now starting yesterday, exactly one week after I replaced it I noticed the popping/clicking sound coming back. It was faint at first but started getting louder. Now today it's almost as bad as it was before I replaced the axle. I still have to get underneath and see if I can hear where it's coming from? Think the axle is bad again? It is an after market Axle, ToughOne is the brand I believe.
Just for a quick history. All four wheel bearings were replaced about two years ago. All four ball joints about a year and a half ago. I replaced the outer tie rod ends about two weeks ago.
2004 Ford Explorer, 4X4, 4.0 Flex Fuel
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Did ball joints this weekend and now have little axle fluid leaking out passenger side. was going to change axle fluid when i saw this so continued and when pulled the fill plug i would say 8oz or more came draining out. Did I mess up the seal inside the tube?
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How do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150?
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1998 F-250LD 4X4 ... The outer boot is cracked, so I got a new one. Took the axle off, but cannot understand how to remove the boot. Where do I take the joint apart?
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MK4/3 having axle binding problems. I installed coilovers on my wagon and when i went for a test drive i heard clunk and the car vibrates under load. Now I know the engine mount and trans mount are shot so there's a big possibility that it's causing the axle to bind.
There's no load and the car was of the ground so it doesn't vibrate that much, but if you take a close look at the boots you can see that it's not rotating evenly.
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I just had my right drive axle replaced on my 1992 accord today at a mechanic chain store. I have notice fluid leaking/dripping from where the axle and transmission meet. What is occurring? Could it be they didn't replaced any seals or the axle is a wrong fit. Its a manual transmission by the way.
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It's time to replace my axle bearing and hub assembly. Looking at RiffRaff site they show 3 different models. Early 99, fine course and course. I think I have the course thread but just want to make sure before I order. My truck is a L99 and I don't have the abs sensor. Looks like all 3 have come with the abs sensor. Do I simply not connect the sensor? Here's a pic of what i have. Course thread?
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Looking for a video, pictures, or steps that are in depth on how to replace my rear seals and bearings? They are leaking very badly and would like to see some other ways to get it done.
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