Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Forcefully Stop And Feels As Though Only Front Brakes Are Engaging
Jan 8, 2013
I have had this happen the last couple times I use my car in the cold. It has been around 25-30 F and when I pull out of my driveway the first time/maybe second time I touch the brakes it forcefully stops and feels as though only the front brakes are engaging. As I drive the car that trip it has yet to happen and the brakes preform normally. I am not used to disk brakes and I am thinking it is maybe that? The only other thing I could think of is that the brakes need to warm up a bit and pressing them still cold illicit that jerked response. I have read through a number of threads on brakes and I cannot seem to find this happening.
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Mostly highway miles. Squeal doesn't happen all the time, only sometimes.
The pads I bought were from O'Reily's here and I believe they were BrakeBest Ceramic brake pads. Should I give it some more time for the squeal to go away? could it have been a poor brake job? (I didn't do it)
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My Sonata suddenly started having front right brake sticking issue. It will happen only after an extended distance of frequent drive & stop. Something like Houston daily ride. So, after the traffic jam mysteriously clear and you can get some speed, starting at 40MPH a high grinding noise from the front (Ceramic brake pads) and the car feels very heavy. The sticking phenomenon will disappear if you wait a little with avoiding using the brakes.
I am going to check it today. So far I know that the sliding pins are not the issue. I recently cleaned them and lubricated them. The front right brake will get hot while the left are just in normal temperature. The brake pedal is getting higher while the sticking is about to happen and happening.
My first guess is the Flexible brake hose. Or maybe a bad caliper. I think if the master cylinder was the issue, I might have more than one sticking brake wheel. I don't know how common it is to have a bad ABS unit causing this issue. It feels really like a build up pressure caused by a valve effect of interior deteriorated brake hose.
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I just installed an Injen intake to my Sonata 2.0T, but now it doesn't feel as quick off the line. It sounds incredible but idk.. just feels a little sluggish now..
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2011 GTI (65k miles). Selective brakes intermittently engaging when grip is adequate. Only happens at speed (>50 mph) when turning, most often with change in pitch (uphill/downhill). Traction light flashes. Happens when ESP on or off, wet or dry. Plenty of tread on (snow) tires. Mild bearing noise has persisted for >20k miles. Two dealers and one third-party shop couldn't find anything wrong, including with bearings. No stored faults.
My suspicion: slow (non-critical) bearing failure causing bad ABS sensor signal/fault, causing ABS/ESP engagement, especially with change in pitch. Related but simpler: ABS sensor failure or bad connection. Pulling fuses?
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I took my car in to get this checked out, but they say they can't hear it.
Sometimes when I turn my car on right after I turn it on, there's a loud humming sound like a compressor or something is kicking on and it's not fully engaging. And it only makes the sound for maybe 3-5 secs. Sometimes it won't happen when I turn the car on, but when I'm driving and I let off the gas and go to touch the brakes, it'll start.
The best I can describe it is a 'hum'...but it's loud, and I can feel it as if it's near the gas pedal right behind the firewall.
Dealer thought maybe it was the ABS switch testing itself..but they could never reproduce....I got in after they replaced my rims and checked it...and it did it 4 times when I started it, then turned it off. He came out to check, and it was almost as if you couldnt hear it outside of the car.
So, what the sound might be...I can't reproduce it anytime I'm there. Figures...... but I hear it almost daily. He put some foam tape on the firewall behind the gas lines saying the 'pulsing' from them might be doing it...but it did it again this morning.
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First it was the RH now after replacing the rotors, calipers and new shoes. The LH is now doing it. It doesn't stop the truck just gets hot, the wheel, and u can smell it. The truck is a 97 f150 ext cab 2wd short box, had since new and has over 200,000 miles and going strange until now. I want to get 300000.0 before I let her go. Had to replace a rear axle brake line years ago, and do not think the lines were bleed right, the brakes never work just right.
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Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
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I have a 2009 SE, about 120k miles. A few months ago I noticed a creaking noise from the front brakes when nearing the end of a complete stop, and the closer completely stopped, the more pronounced the sound is. I took it to my mechanic assuming I needed new brake pads (had put about 40k on the car without replacing them).
The mechanic told me the pads were fine but the rotors needed to be "cleaned," which he did. The sound stopped VERY briefly but then returned and is getting worse. It's not quite a grinding, more like a tight-sounding creaking that "rolls" as the car stops.
Now, they don't feel any less effective or impaired, and as I said, it's only near the end of the stop, maybe 20mph and below. No noise in the beginning part of the stop. If the brake pads and rotors are both fine as my mechanic claimed...
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2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L .... I have 82,000 miles. Bought with 65,000 miles.
Now when I apply brakes at 60 mph or above i get wobbling (Vibration) on my steering wheel these days. Is it the rotors or pads or both or any alignment issues?
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Friday morning I'm backing my 2011 Sonata Limited out of the garage and I always idle out but this time it started backing about 2 paces faster than idle speed. I hit the brakes and the pedal is on the floor..no brakes..I put it Drive and nothing no power. It didn't stop until I backed into the street curb, tires only no damage. When it hit the curb the brake pedal was back and Drive engaged as if nothing ever happened. Dropped it off at the dealer and they couldn't find anything but did open a case with Hyundai. Saturday doing a couple of backing the brakes were really spongy in reverse only. Will have that checked next week.
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I noticed yesterday a sound, like a grinding sound, *sometimes* as I apply the brakes to stop. I'm at 68k. The noise only happens when the brakes are applied so I suspect there is an issue with my brakes again.
Some BACKGROUND info: At around 60k (or 8 months ago roughly), the front pads were replaced after the brakes were squealing and a pulsating brake pedal when stopping. The pads were replaced by a dealer. In addition, both front/rear rotors were turned at the same time. Rear pads had 40% at the time and were not replaced.
Some weeks later the pulsation came back and I went back again and they machined them again. For this current issue I was thinking about taking the car to someplace local (not a dealer) and getting a free brake evaluation of what is going on.
I'm also concerned that all this machining the dealer did to eliminate the pulsation may have decreased the life of the rotors and perhaps they need replacement now.
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So I was told I had a brake light out? Went and bought new bulb and replaced. Turn on headlights and the single filament lights. so when brakes are applied the second filament should light up that give the brighter affect.
Well when brakes applied the bulb goes out completely? Take foot off brake and the single filament comes back on. The other tail light operates as it should. Even used bulb from working tail light with same results.
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Car started fine but stalled on first brake application with the skid-control light illuminated, restarted fine but stalled again on next brake application (skid-control light stayed on). Decided to head for the dealer which was only a few blocks away, drove there knowing that it may stall when brakes were applied (engine would start, idle and operate when driving but the problem would only occur on brake application.... approx when the transmission would down shift to third or second gear). My last stop before turning into the dealer's parking lot, the engine quit and refused to restart.... finally came back to life after about 5mins and was able to complete my somewhat dangerous trip (whole journey was on very quiet back streets). At first I thought it could be related to the infamous brake switch but the service rep informed me that they couldn't communicate with any control module with the scan tool. Now I sit and wait, hopefully they will call with some good news soon.
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Right this clicking noise is really annoying me now, every time AFTER i brake i hear this click, the faster i stop the louder the click is, also when I am in neutral and suddenly rev its clicks sometimes but rarely, I am thinking it could be a loose exhaust somewhere? Its definitely coming from under my foot area. When I brake cornering it clicks too. Checked my control arms and everything, that's not rattling at all? Need to get rid of this click sound!!
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So I have a 2012 Sonata with about 80k miles on it. I bought it used a few months ago. It has recently started having issues with the brakes.
When the car is cold and I start driving, every time I push down on the brakes they will do a quick grab after a few seconds. Sometimes its a slight grab and other times its a jerking grab. After I drive 10-20 miles or so and it warms up this goes away.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and am approaching 100,000 KM. I had my car put through a general service and ended up with a new problem (my brakes with light pressure would go to the floor after the car stopped) in an attempt to fix this replaced parts which included new master cylinder, booster pump, ABS module and my BRAKES still go to the floor after my car has stopped. The car does stop when I brake so why would the pedal go to the floor after the car is stopped?
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Sounds like it's coming from the gray plastic that's attached to the center console.
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I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
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My sonata 2011 yf suddenly engine shut down in 20 - 30 meters after start or stop...
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I noticed twice yesterday when I was accelerating from an intersection, going into 2nd gear (or 3rd depending on how short 1st is) it feels like it slips into neutral and I lose acceleration. If I take my foot off the gas and coast for a moment then re-apply acceleration, it goes on as normal without any problems.
66k miles... Owned it for 2 years and have had no other issues and have only taken it in for oil changes.
Am I correct in assuming the ATF is supposed to be good for the life of the vehicle?
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