Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Cooling Fan Speed Remains Same
Jul 26, 2016
If I turn on the A/C should my cooling fan be running on "high" speed? The reason why I'm asking is because once I turn off the A/C and wait for 5 minutes at idle, the cooling fan comes on by itself but the speed seems to be the same speed as when the A/C is on. When will it be low speed or when will it be high speed?
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Our 2011 Subaru Outback 3.6R, which we bought brand new back in Feb ’11 and only has 4k miles, seems to be having issues with the cooling fan. The cooling fan will come on when the engine is cold and it will stay on the entire time the engine is running. I’ve read that the cooling fan will run the whole time when either the A/C is on or the vent control is set to defrost, regardless of whether the engine is cold or hot. In my case, the cooling fan comes on when the engine is cold, even with the HVAC off and it will remain running at full speed when the engine is running, again with the HVAC off.
Every time I go to start the car after it has been sitting for an entire day and the engine is cold, when I turn the key to the “On” position, before the engine is even started, the cooling fan comes on. How is this possible when the engine isn’t even running and the engine is cold. Again, the HVAC is off. Once the car is started, the cooling fan will remain on until the car is shut off. The fan is running as such a high speed you can hear it over the noise of the idling engine. Once I turn the car off the fan shuts off.
Since we’ve owned the car there were two other issues First, the transmission pan gasket wasn’t properly installed and it was leaking transmission fluid. That issue was fixed and is good now. The second issue was that oil was leaking from the timing chain cover. It turns out that the timing chain cover gasket was also improperly installed. This too was fixed, and doesn’t seem to be a problem anymore.
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2013 Sonata A/C stop cooling. Is it cover under warranty? Started making strange noise under dash.
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2011 GLS 2.4L auto 50K
After many months of trouble free driving, the vehicle has stalled twice at low speed while making a sharp turn. Once turning right, once turning left. Once it was warmed up, and once it was cold. Starts right up again. The vehicle has had all current recalls/tsbs to date including the various steering items except the most recent EPS 143 notice that has no remedy yet.
I will be test driving it myself to see if I can replicate the issue. I am not seeing anything specific on the forums other than maybe the TPS.
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Saturday I picked up a set of OEM staggered 18 inch genny wheels and tires. rims are perfect, no curb rash. Tires all have about 8/32 tread on them. I mounted them myself and I had a horrible vibration that started around 50mph. Sunday I took them down to one of the only local shops that are open and have the TPMS swapped and balanced. Vibration is still there. Monday I take it to America's Tires to have the wheels and tires checked for dents, out of round,etc. and balanced again. One of the rears (245/45/18 had water in it. They removed the water and remounted and balanced it. Vibration still there. It's definitely better but still shaking at around 55-60mph. Today I went to another shop that had the Hunter road force balancer. Got all four done and alignment. Boom...another wheel had water in it. this time it was one of the fronts (225/45/18). Still vibrating.
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When I hit bumps, yank to the left, or go above a certain speed my steering wheel will start shaking and a loud clicking noise happens.
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Just got a Sonata. loving it ... One thing I was missing on the nav is the speed limit of the rood you are driving on. Is there any way to enable it? Also have there been regular/any firmware/maps update to nav and where to get them from and how to install.
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This is my 2011 2.4L Hyundai Sonata with around 78,000 miles(no warranty). For the past two days car wasn't accelerating as it used to and all of a sudden today it started to produce hammering sound. Sounds gets loud with speed. Gears are switching like normal. There is a warning signal also that is attached in the picture below.
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I want to know where is the sound coming from? Should i fill any oil? If so what brand and where is the nozzle located.
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Started out clunk sound only if going over speed bump, or bumpy road. Now more often with slightest road bumps.
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I currently have I45, 2 years old, that recently when driving at 100km approx 1.5to2K revs, loud noise like tyre has blown but was is happening the motor goes up to 3k revs, I have to pull over & stop the motor & restart otherwise if I keep driving the motor is revving at 3k revs unable to increase speed.
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When I turn my Cruise Control "On" it will light up green on my dashboard, However when I press the "set" button to set the speed nothing happens. It was working fine a few weeks ago. Could it be a fuse? If so what fuse? How I can fix this? 2011 Sonata
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 65k miles...it has a 2.4 liter motor (4 CYL), auto transmission. The car currently has 205-65-R16 tires on it with a 95H speed rating. They all have worn down to the wear bars so it's time for replacement.
On my previous cars, I've always had Uniroyal Tiger Paw touring tires because I love how they ride. I found the same tire size for my Sonata. However it has a different speed rating...95T.
The only difference is the letter "T".
EDIT: It currently has Nexen N5000 tires and I bought the car with these tires already on....crappy tires...worn down in only 30k miles.
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I recently acquired a 2014 Sonata Limited 2.4L. Don't know if its me or not but engine noise seems to be excessive in the cabin especially when I am accelerating from a very low speed, almost like something in the engine is loose. Had it at the dealership today for warranty work (seat belt) and recall work and asked the techs to take a listen when the do their inspection. They came back and said that the noise is coming from the electric fuel pump and that it is totally normal. Previous car I had was a 2011 Honda Accord Ex and it seamed quieter.
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2011 Focus 2.0L L4 engine, manual transmission, 70K miles - when up-shifting gears, the throttle remains high, dropping v-e-r-y slowly instead of dropping rapidly when the throttle is released. It is the same when not moving, when the throttle is run up to steady RPM's, then the pedal is released, the RPM's drop slowly. This has started recently, at first I thought it was just 'operator error', and that our shifting skills were deteriorating with age (ours, not the car), but testing has proven the fault lies with the vehicle. I researched sticking throttle issues, and thought I had located the problem as a bad throttle body assembly. Changed it out with a new one, went thru the computer reset procedure,and the problem still exists. No error codes are showing, but the little yellow wrench light is lit on the dash (resets each startup. Vehicle drives fine otherwise, no loss of power, etc.
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I've been troubleshooting my AC for the past couple of months -- 2000 GLX -- and have narrowed it down. I have taken the connector off of the Radiator Fan switch and followed the Bently procedure to start the fans. The high speed will run with the ignition switch ON, but I can't get the low speed to operate. The Bentley manual said if the low speed doesn't run, to use the electrical diagram to find the problem. I need to know where the signal for the low speed fan comes from. I have ruled out fuses, etc.....
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Drove my son's '01 Santa Fe and the AC is not cooling. The compressor seems to be working but there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash on the passengers side. The clicking is louder when you turn up the speed of the fan. The coolant does not need to be charged.
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Just picked up a 2011 VW Tiguan 2.0t ... Got back into town and ran her thru a touchless carwash. Got it home tonight and the radiator fan ran for over 45 minutes wide open after I turned off the car before I disconnected the battery. The battery cable is off now until morning. Wet sensor?
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I have a 2007 Sonata and It recently lt began to blow hot air out of one side and freezing cold out the other side. Took it to the dealer and the technician said he didn't know what was wrong but recommended that the system be evacuated and refilled at a cost of 281.00. Actually, what he said is that the compressor is either overfilled or underfilled.
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I'm working on 07sonata 2.4. The cooling fan is always on when key is on. I used to be a hyundai tech and remembered seeing something about the engine room fuse box and I have access to wiring diagrams. So in essence you go to connector jc01 pin 2 pink and connector je01 pin 25 pink. Cut the wires and connect them together bypassing the fusebox all together. But that didn't work this time. One thing I discovered is that if I touch my power probe to the heatsink of the fan control module I have battery voltage available. I first discovered this because I was removing said module and my 10mm touched it when it slipped a touch.
Is this 'hot' heatsink evidence of a shorted module? No codes in system. Ect tests good when hot and cold. A/c is not commanded on. Being that I used to be a tech for Hyundai I also know the engine fuse box can be touchy as well...
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Was just on a trip (about 200 miles or so each way) and the AC worked just fine.
Car has sat for a few days unused.....when I used it to day, the AC blows warm...doesnt cool at all.
I hooked up a gauge to the low pressure side and the pressure reads very high (in the red zone of the gauge).....
Cant tell if the compressor is kicking on or not when the car is running...
Car is 600 miles out of warranty (of course).
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6L w/automatic trans,no tunes,no mods. Fan doesn't speed up when ac is turned on. I checked connector at fan shroud and #25 10a fuse and wanted to see if there's anything else I can do or check before taking it to dealer. I haven't towed heavy since I noticed ac not cooling at idle but last time I did tow the fan ramped up on hills and stop and go. I'm in Texas so I must get this right asap. I heard of some with manual override so I would like to do that as well but also heard rumors the override can damage pcm. Any manual override?
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