Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Whole Right Side Parking And Tag Lights Are Not Working
Jul 10, 2014
I have a 13 Sonata GLS completely stock and today I noticed that the whole right side parking lights and tag lights are not working. I changed out the bulbs and no luck. I also tried looking for a fuse that controls them and no luck. I also disconnected the battery to try and reset and nothing.
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I have an ongoing intermittent problem with my exterior lighting. Occasionally, the front right amber light and the entire right rear light assembly, along with the license plate light do not work. Sometimes, if I turn the car off and on or repeatedly turn the lights off and on, all the lights will come back on. I have had the car back to the dealer several times, and they even changed the light switch on the steering column, but the problem still comes back very intermittently. I have blue LED's light bulbs for the license plate and wonder if this could be the problem. There are no codes being thrown according to the dealer. I searched this forum but didn't see any results.
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The indicator lights stopped working on the switches and the dealer replaced a fuse and they worked again. Now they are out again and it seems like the heater on the drivers side is on the low setting for random intervals.
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My son parked the car and I noticed the brake lights were on. After depressing and releasing the pedal a few times the lights go off, then 2 or 3 seconds later, they're back on even when the pedal is released. This happened all of a sudden. I'll pull the switch in the morning and test it, but what else could it be but the switch, right?
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My wife has a 2011 Hyundai Sonata with about 75K miles and the rear parking lights will not turn off after I turn the car off and make sure all illumination is set to the off position. It completely drained her battery over night. I have done some research on here and think it is probably a relay in the engine compartment fuse box. Whenever I pull the STOP LP 15 Amp fuse (listed on page 7-57 in the manual) the lights finally turn off but that's obviously a temporary fix since I won't be able to convince my wife to do that every time she turns the car off.
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Late last night as I was puling up to park in front of a dark restaurant, I turned off my headlights so I would not blind the people inside. This is a 2010 Prius III.
When I left and tried to turn them back on, only the drivers side parking light (the small white one above the headlight) and side marker light worked. Passenger side nothing works, however on both sides the high beams do work.
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My 2011 F250 has no front or rear running lights working, mirror side marker lights not working and fog lights not working. I have checked all fuses including 30amp trailer light fuse and they are good. The fuses in the passenger kick panel are not getting energized.
I replaced the switch with a friends from same truck and no luck there. The headlights, dash lights and turn signals work fine. Here's the kicker, when I back feed 12V to the yellow/blue wire at front running light it turns them all on, including mirror lights. I've switched out relays in the box under hood and that didn't work.
When I pull the switch on dash to turn on the fog lights the indicator in the switch doesn't work either, they are both listed on the same fuse but as I said, the fuses have continuity across the blades but when I test the socket there is no voltage going to them. I have not connected a trailer to see if those are out yet but will do today.
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I have a 2011 sonata gls. Today I noticed when locking the car with the remote keyless entry, the hazard lights don't blink, and also no horn feedback when the remote is pressed twice within 4 seconds. I checked all settings in the display and horn feedback is set to "on". The unlock on the fob works fine, the hazard lights do blink for that. I know this is not a serious issue, just used to hearing and seeing the doors lock. What to look for to fix this?
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Today while driving my clock/temp went out. After I parked, my remote lock/unlock was not working. At first I thought it was a battery issue in my key fob but then remembered the clock going out earlier while driving. Then it dawned on me that a fuse must have gone out. I checked to see which one was the clock fuse (third one over from the left on the top row, 10A) and saw that my add-a-fuse was in that exact slot that powers my interior LED's. I removed it and put in the original low profile 10A fuse to diagnose if this was the issue and the clock did not come back on. I tried several different fuses with no success. My first question is, what could have been damaged since evidently it is not a fuse? Second, could this be an issue that is not covered if I tell them an add-a-fuse was in there? Obviously I will just not mention it and remove it but what could be the issue here?
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So, I am sitting at the dealership waiting for my car to get worked on. The door lock on my driver side isn't working.
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So about a 2 weeks ago my drivers side headlight went out. I figured it was the bulb (even though I had just replaced them about a month prior). Got new bulbs and nothing. I checked the fuse and it was not blown. I made sure the electrical connections to the bulb weren't dirty and were connected properly.
Then last night my passenger low beam went out. I had changed the bulb when the other side went out 2 weeks ago. Its still brand new and not blown. I did the same thing, the fuse is not blown and the electrical connectors are clean and secure.
I just took my car into the dealer about a week before the driver's light went out and did their "Major Service". They did tell me that I would need to replace my battery soon. Could this be the cause?
I drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L
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My 2013 Sonata, just out of the blue decided the driver side door push button wouldn't work anymore. it seems like it gets stuck when it's depressed, I can manually "pop" it back out and press the button and the doors lock/unlock but becomes stuck again.
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Well, was excited to finally get these things installed and they looked and were working perfectly. Unfortunately after one hour of use, whilst pulling into the garage, the drivers side bulb just cuts out completely. Check all the wiring everything is good, the passenger side is still working perfectly, so I need to determine what the problem would be, because I pulled out the bulb and it is completely in tact.
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I've got a 2011 Sonata Limited that I just purchased used, 20,000 miles. Everything is great besides the fact that the all the controls on the left hand side of the steering wheel will intermittently stop working. I brought it to Hyundai the first time I noticed and they replaced all the buttons but the issue persisted. So, I just picked it up today from them replacing the entire clockspring and the wiring behind it now. It worked great all day until just as I was pulling into my driveway and it happened again.
They basically told me this would 100% fix it because it's the only other thing that could be the issue. However, my gut keeps telling me it could be an issue with the radio itself. I've read a bunch of stuff on here about the issue but there was only a few responses of fixes (all of which I have tried).
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I have a 2001 Excursion, 6.8 V10, with the factory fog lights.
The fog lights worked fine, until a few days ago until they suddenly stopped working when just the parking lights are on.
I can still pull out the switch, the indicator light does not come on but the parking lights still work. When I turn it to the headlight position with the switch pulled out everything comes on and works like it should.
I tried checking the fuses but I didn't see one labeled in the manual for the fog lights so I don't know for sure which one to check. Could I possibly have a bad switch?
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My vehicle: 2013 Sonata Limited - 4500 mi. When I park on an incline, set the parking brake then release the foot brake, hear a 'creaking' noise from rear. Dealer says "it's normal and nothing can be done" ? I don't think so...
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Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate?it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting?at which time it acts normally for the rest of the day. The braking system is fine.
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Sometimes when I start my car, parking brake light fails to go off. I know this is usually indicative of low brake fluid, but mine is not low. I rarely use the brake so I don't think it's the parking brake switch either as it only happens if the parking brake is not engaged. Never happens on the occasional use of it.
Restarting doesn't seem to work unless I set the brake, restart, then disengage it. Very strange problem. Not a big deal but is a bit perplexing. I never see a CEL or any codes generated at all.
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I have 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE V6, 72k. Out of warranty. Problem is parking lights does not turn off when I turn off the car and take the key out. I have to play with the switch from On to Auto many times in order to turn them off. Sounds like stuck relay. I also have "auto switch off" feature which is supposed to turn off everything when I open the driver’s door AND the key is out. This does not turn off the lights as well. Lately it is very difficult to turn them off, especially when the car has been running for some time. Brake switch as per the recall has been changed in the past.
I went to the dealership, paid $110 for diagnostics and they said I need to replace the junction fuse box in the engine compartment - I found such a box for less and replaced it myself. Problem still exist. After reading some more online, the forums said that the parking relay is integrated in the other junction/fuse box – the one under the left front dash (91950-3K560).
Can this box be opened and fixed? Is there another solution other than replacing the fuse box?
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My 2007 Hyundai Sonata lights won't turn off on auto or manually. Took it to the dealer and. they said.....
checked fuses okay has internal relay in IP Junction blocked checked power at Pin 7 and 8 RH and L/H Trail Lamp ASSY with Switch off voltage at 12V internal Failure in IP Junction Block. Recommend to replace.
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Recently, i realized the doors would automatically unlock after sitting in garage or parking lot for a night. In the beginning, i was thinking maybe that was my fault that i didn't lock it. However, I double double double checked every time when i left my car. the next day, it was unlocked.
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