I noticed my wheel rim is hot to the touch after driving about 30 miles on the highway. I assume that this is heat dissipation from the brakes. Is this normal?
View 26 RepliesThis is kinda hard to describe but here it goes. I have a 2012 Turbo with 33K miles which I have owned since new.
Like I said, it is hard to explain but it seems like the steering wheel has a dead spot when driving. Feels like you have a magnet between the steering wheel and the column. As you are driving, it seems like you overcompensate trying to keep the car in a straight line. Asked the techs at the dealer twice already and they say this is normal for being electric.
Gotta tell you, on long rides feels like I just flew an old C-47 (DC-3) for ten hours straight!
My 2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid is shutting down completely on the highway only after over 60 miles of driving. A red yield symbol flashes on the dash with the message, pull over safely. The car locks up and disables the ability to drive it. I then have to pull over on the busy highway, wait 10 minutes and turn back on the car. This will keep happening after continued long drives. I took it to a Ford dealer service department where they said it was a software issue, did some programing and sent me on my way. The car did the same thing on my next long trip. A few days after that I took it to a different dealer, where they said the water pump needed to be replaced. They replaced the water pump and assurred me it was fixed. One day later it did the same thing! I brought it back to the Ford dealer where we are now at a stand still with them not believing me that there is a problem.
View 2 RepliesYesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
View 1 RepliesI have an 09 camry se 4cyl with 165k. I believe the service interval on the plugs is 100k. However, 75% of my miles are from highway driving. Plainly put, the car still drives like brand spankin new and get gets 30mpg hwy. This tells me the plugs are doing their job just fine. What concerns would you have if any?
View 14 RepliesDriving home today and all of a sudden, hot air... I stopped and turned the car off then back on, hoping to reset something. Still nothing.
It almost sounds as if I can't even hear the compressor kick on when I turn on the AC button.
Looks like I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow to see if this is still under warranty. Really upset being that this car is only two years old.
I am driving 2013 Sonata for over 13 months, after 2 Synthetic oil changes, I have noticed that colours of oil turns darker after only 1500 miles each time, first synthetic was Quaker State and currently Castrol synthetic.
My Question is, what is the reason that causes the oil to turn dark,what is that substance which goes in oil to make it dark. My previous car Honda Accord could go 7,000 miles without any change in synthetic colours. Whatever it is which causes oil to get dark, cannot be good for engine.
I am being forced to change synthetic oil after 2000 miles. Do not want to drive my Sonata with dark oil. What causes even synthetic to turn dark after 1500 miles. Also why synthetic oil stays clear upto 1500 miles.
My 2011 SE is starting to get some engine knock at 50,000 miles. I don't believe the dealership has ever ran the recommended fuel cleaner through the car. Do you think that would take care of the issue? If I do run the fuel cleaner through it, do I have to use the Hyundai brand?
View 11 RepliesI am following the 7,500 maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes. At about 3,000 miles the color of the oil was golden brown but definitely had started to turn brown but still had a golden tint. Is light brown oil normal for 5,000 miles? The oil level is OK and still near the Full mark.
View 20 RepliesI just left to get gas. When I left my house, I had 64 miles til empty. The gas station is about 4 miles away. I put $5 in and when I got back in my car it was reading 59 miles til e. so I drove to another gas station and put another $5 in. This time, it showed 56 miles til e which is where I was before I got gas the second time. I have tried to reset it but can't figure out how to... I've got 90 miles until my warranty expires... Any easy fix? Or do I need to bring it in?
View 20 RepliesI've got nearing 160,000 miles on my GLS and the first 150k were absolutely flawless. However, I have recently noticed I'm losing nearly 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles. The exhaust isn't smoking and there is no noticeable oil leaking inside the engine bay. Where it might be going?
View 11 RepliesI replaced the front pads on my 2011 sonata with ones I purchased at an O'reilly's auto parts store about 11,000 miles ago. They did squeak initially after swapping but I thought that would go away eventually, nope it still makes that squeak/screech during dry/hot weather. Not all the time though, its mainly when coming to a stop over a long distance (slowly). I drive mostly highway miles. Will replacing them with OEM pads fix the issue?
View 7 RepliesMostly highway miles. Squeal doesn't happen all the time, only sometimes.
The pads I bought were from O'Reily's here and I believe they were BrakeBest Ceramic brake pads. Should I give it some more time for the squeal to go away? could it have been a poor brake job? (I didn't do it)
Oil in my 2012 Sonata 2.4L is black on the dip stick in 2000 to 3000 miles. Dealer says normal for this car, I don't believe it. What do others see? Also only gets about 32 mpg on highway and has black deposits on the tailpipe. I have gotten better than rated mileage on every other car I have owned so I don't believe it is my driving technique.
View 19 RepliesThis just gets stranger by the month. I could have sworn when I first got this 2011 Sonata that the console read 341 after filling it up for the first time. I thought it had said that after I filled it the second time (just after Hurricane Sandy - yes, before the long lines - I was lucky) and it read 329. On those occasions the console had read approx 67 & 69 miles to empty. I know I filled it with 87 the second time around. The first time may have been with 89. And when it stopped at 14.x I thought to myself, hmm, didn't it fill to 15.x the first time? Weird. So I went on with my life.
This past weekend it read 50 miles to empty and so I filled it again with 87 (same gas station I should point out). And just like the last time, before this time, it filled with 14.1xx and read 288 miles to empty. It just seems to me that "Miles to Empty" has slowly gone down. On the third filling I believe it may have read 303 to empty.
Is it me? I am imagining things here. Could have that much sludge/dirt/whatever it my tank because of the gas station I visited or the 87 and not 89 that I have been putting in? Oil and filter were changed in mid October and then again in mid March. Thats about to happen again on the 28th but also to have the required NYS Inspection done. What should I say to them if anything? Could I have picked that crappy of a local area gas station?
My daughter just bought a 2106 Hyundai Sonata Sport loaded. Within one week of driving it she noticed a lot of front end vibration at highway speeds. She took it back to the dealer. They test drove it and figured it needed an alignment. It didn't fix the problem. Hyundai corp was notified and the gave permission to put on 4 new tires in case there was damage from the original wheels sitting. Still has not corrected the problem. They have one more try before I demand lemon law and require a new car replacement.
View 5 RepliesI have 2011 Tiguan SE 4motion,that i purchased 5 months ago just got out of warranty
First problem i had with this car was the failed Ignition coil on one cylinder one month ago,suddenly while driving on the high way the car was shaking if goes above 40 MPH and check engine light came on, I continued to drive slowly till i made it home , and changed coil the next day and everything was fine for few weeks , i was planning on changing the rest of the coils and spark plugs.
Recently after leaving work i tried to start the car and it won't start it made weird loud crank noise but no start, check engine light came on , showed multiple cylinder mis fire code and random mis fire code
I changed remaining coils and spark plugs just to see if it will fix the problem ,it wouldn't start. Towed it to my regular mechanic after few failed attempt to start it he checks compression and was non on any cylinder, I researched online and came across common complaints of Timing chain Tensioner Failures and i thought it has to be same problem with my car.
Mechanic removed the timing chain cover to see if chain slipped or tensioner failed and they were fine and everything is in place with no timing fault, I checked the tensioner myself yesterday with him and still working fine. Now we deciding on opening the engine and check for damage Or just Replacing with used engine.
Having situation of engine failure WITHOUT having the timing chain fail due to tensioner failure? The misfires that occurred 1 month earlier could have caused enough damage that went catastrophic a month later? I had oil changed by mechanic with recommended Mobil one oil for VW 4 months ago...
This has happened multiple times but this last time was the dangerous one. I was driving home from work on Friday on the tollway which is very straight but does have some slight turns in it (construction). So I am at highway speeds for some time and one of these slight turns comes up. I try to turn my wheel but nothing happens. I apply more and more force until it finally decides to turn and by that time I am applying so much force, it jerks really hard. If the car didn't finally decide to turn, I would have hit the highway barrier. I am lucky that no one was next to me or I might have hit them.
-This only happens at sustained highway speeds, city driving is perfect.
-It doesn't happen every time I am on the highway, it is intermittent.
-It does not have a bias with regard to direction (left turn or right).
-I have put some Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in my reservoir to add fluid to my system with whatever was currently in there when I bought the car @ 75K miles. Car currently has 130K miles. Is there some sort of write up for PS maintenance/flush? I need to pull the return to drain, right?
-I do have a rubber on rubber squeak sound in the front right when I go over a bump.
My 2003 Sante Fe (3.5L) steering wheel twitches right and left when driving. On hot days its much less than colder days. The drivers side tire is worn on the inside much more than the outside of the tire. The brake rotor towards its outside is silver, perhaps half an inch. The rest of the rotor towards the inner hub has a little surface rust on it as though the pads are not fully grabbing. The car has 45,000 miles on it.
View 1 RepliesI just bought my first car, a 2000 saab 9-3 convertible (base model) a month or so ago. The car had been neglected for the last year or so and I have been spending the last few weeks fixing all its issues. This last weekend I replaced the rear shocks, font struts and the rotors and brake pads on all four wheels. After driving about 20 miles or so I started to notice a squeak coming from the front right wheel well and since has become more and more noticeable/pronounced.
Squeak description:-cyclically increases and decreases in volume with each rotation of the wheel
-the squeak is constant: squeak that gets louder at a certain point in each wheel rotation but is always a certain baseline volume as long as the wheel is turning
-the volume of the squeak is NOT AT ALL effected by braking (EXACT same noise driving as while braking) which leads me to think its has nothing to do with the pads or rotors
-HERE IS THE WEIRD ONE: the squeak disappears completely when driving in reverse!
-the squeak is about the pitch and sound of a cricket, only constant and Ii guess louder.
-the noise is unaffected by turning sharply to the right and left.
Additional details:- I had to use a gear puller to press the axle out of the wheel bearing (was stuck from rust). I hooked to the back of the wheel bearing ( what the lug nuts screw into ) and pressed on the center of the axle. Maybe this could have damaged it or the cv joint?-while I was switching that wheel's strut insert out, the carrier bearing leaked 1 (maybe 1 and a half) teaspoons of grey oil from the larger end of its boot and stretched out an inch or so from the weight of the hanging axle.
I have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.