Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Valve Rattle Under Acceleration - Carbon Build Up
Jan 4, 2016
I have a 2014 Sonata with 22k miles. I love this car but lately I've noticed valve rattle under acceleration. Brought this up with service tech and he said I'm not driving the car on long enough trips to keep it cleaned off. When I researched the GDI very little info comes up for Hyundai mainly vw and BMW. I guess what I'm asking is is the only fix for the carbon build up removing the intake and cleaning the valves manually or is there another way.
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I just purchased my 2012 Sonata GLS about 2 weeks ago and had 64,000 miles on it. Put a few hundred miles on it around town without issue and then head out on a road trip and put about 750 miles on it when I had the issue. I was going about 60 mph and went to pass a semi and when I stepped on it the car started lurching, crazy valve rattle, and seemed to lose a lot of power. Got back behind the semi and babied it until I found a place to pull over and check it out. It was 2 quarts low on oil so I topped it off and it sounded fine, running smooth and no ticking or anything. Drove it around a bit and everything seemed fine and eventually got back on the highway and running fine. Pulled over after 100 miles and another 1/2 quart low, topped off.
Another 100 miles and another 1/2 quart, but running great with no issues. 150 miles from home and it happens again when I try to pass with the rattling valves and loss of power and I have to limp it to a gas station and now hearing the valve rattle and chugging on just a slight incline and going 20 mph. Get it towed 150 miles back to the Honda dealer where i purchased it from (long story) and their tech drove it and said he thought it needed a new motor since he barely made it back to the shop. They send it over to my local Hyundai dealer, and all of the sudden it is running great again! I go and drive with the tech and hammering on the throttle and it's running like a champ. I left it for him to drive home and they put 98 miles on it without issue. I picked it up yesterday and they said to bring it back if it happens again, but totally stumped as what it could be. They did start the oil consumption test so I will update when that is done.
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My commute is only 11.5 miles. 6 miles of it I can run 55-65. Am I building a carbon nightmare?
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Anything to remove some carbon build up, that won't cost an arm and a leg. My car has 123k miles on it and those morning starts from the carbon build up are just unpleasing to say the least.
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My 87 Acura Integra with 170k gave SMOG reading in CA as below:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 87525 542 535
A m/c tells me it is the result of carbon build up on pistons.
Incidentally it gave the following in 2010 - upon retesting without any repair it passed:
NOSpeed Max Meas15 760 65625 542 678
Note: Recent oil change (Mobil 1 High Mileage), tune up, Thermostat, new PCV valve, NGK Plat spark
It is for "NO" - Nitrous Oxide
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I recently purchase a 2011 Sonata. It sounds like there is a rattle in acceleration coming from the exhaust (passenger rear)
I had the just alignment professionally checked, and it's spot on, but it seems to pull to the left still.
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Last week when we were in the single digits outside my 3.6 SE took about 15-20 sec of cranking to start (garage kept). Then the check engine light came on (2nd time in 10 months). I drive a lot (80 miles a day), and have put 19,900 miles on since I purchased it in March of 2012. The light turned off after three cycles, but I just so happen to have my 20,000 mile service scheduled so I took the car in. The hard start still is happening every few start ups.
The dealer told me the hard start issues I have been experiencing was due to excessive carbon build up on the valves. The dealer said they haven't seen many "high mileage" 2012 3.6 come through, so they could not tell me if this is common.
I use Shell 93 octane for every fill up. Is there something else I should be doing to prevent this carbon build up? Any others seen this with their higher mileage 2012 3.6? BTW they also had to replace the right rear control arm due to one of the bushings being worn out!
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I recently took my 2007 VW Passat 2.0T in b/c the check engine light was on. They initially replaced a leaking valve and a bad ignition coil, but the car was still misfiring on cylinder 3. They took off the intake manifold and found that there was significant carbon build up. The service writer said it was from "low-quality" gas. The car requires 91 octane. I've used 93 octane since 2007 but started using 89 octane around 6 months ago when the gas prices spiked again. Could 6 months of 89 octane cause significant carbon build up to the point it would trip the check engine light? Or could something else have caused it that I need to watch out for?
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Been told my EGR valve is ok on my 96 accord . But I may have carbon build up in my suction side . I used deep creep for week to loosen up the build up. What else can I do?
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Every time I start my 2013 Azera there is a rattling of the valves like there is no oil in the top end. I have heard other owners complaining about this so I asked my dealer when I went in for an oil change. The last three changes I have asked and he told me the same thing, there is nothing being reported. So I got my oil changed and went home. Parked the car for 6.5 ~ 7 hours and when I started it up the sound was louder than ever. I called the dealer back and told them. They asked me to leave it overnight so they could hear the noise for them selves. I dropped the car off that evening.
I got a call the first thing in the morning and they said that their tech did hear something and they were going to test it again in two hours and call me back. They called back and said they believed it was the CAM phasers. They gave me the car back while they ordered parts and rounded up a loaner. I dropped it off on Thursday.
Two weeks later (today) I picked the car up. Here is what they did. It turned out to be the CAM Phasers so when they got in there they also had to replace the CAM shafts (All 4) as well. I am sure there was more going on than what they told me, after all they had the car for two full weeks!
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I have a '07 Passat Wagon 2.0T with 80K miles. I just had the carbon scrubbed off the valves (looked like black popcorn stuck in there!) and now I'm getting a "P0327 Knock Sensor 1" light. The motor seems to run just fine (actually much better now without the carbon build-up). I'll clear the code but it will show up again the next day.
What could cause the code? Could it be related to the recent scrubbing (fully removed and replaced the valve cover in the process), perhaps a chunk of carbon floating around in the tubes somewhere? I want to go back to the guys that performed the service but I want to have a good idea of what could be the problem and the fix before I get there.
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My 2011 Forester makes a rattle sound each time I accelerate either uphill or on level ground. The sound is reminiscent of the pinging sound from cars from years ago when we were told to use a higher octane gas. It's only at the start of the acceleration, not continuous. The sound seems to come from below the car, either under the hood or under the body, not inside the passenger compartment. Most websites say loose heat guards, but this would mean I'd hear the rattle throughout the acceleration, wouldn't it? Brought It to the dealer twice and they couldn't hear anything. No surprise. I hear it with my 2013 Legacy also.
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I've removed the splash guard(s) and can see a bunch of different thick hoses. I have no clue what I'm supposed to be looking for in order to drain the coolant. What I'm looking for (picture would be great or a really good description).
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 127k miles on it and I'm trying to diagnose a problem, possibly with transmission.
Since I bought the car at 115k miles I started hearing a noise from engine zone, which appears quite rarely. Noise resembles valve knocking, appears mostly at traffic lights and colder weather (evenings). I was trying to catch the sound by recording it while using emergency brake at D pos. but the sound disappeared right after releasing brake pedal.
Describing in a different way it sounds like a propeller touching something with its blades. The sound also appears at 1900rpm on any gear (mostly when slightly releasing gas pedal around 2k rpm).
While trying to understand/fix the issue I used:
- liqui moly valve cleaner and engine flush
- techtron injection cleaner
- replaced spark plugs
These operations had almost 0 effect on car behavior. The symptoms boil down to a torque converter. Transmission shifts fine, I was going to try transmission fluid change ( a full change by dealer), however it may do more harm, so I'm not sure yet.
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I picked up my 2012 limited Turbo last night but noticed there's a rattle of some sort when I accelerate around 2k rpm, it kind of sounds like a bunch of metals being shaken up. Is this normal? I am also trying to test for the left/right pull, but with all the bad roads here in the city its getting kinda tough.
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I hear a rattle or growl from the engine at 2,000 - 2500 rpm. Car performs fine. What it may be?
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So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
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I have a 2011 sonata with 72000 Km on it. As I am driving at highway speeds I notice a rattle from the drivers side towards the door. I can't quite locate where but have tried pushing trim and I can't stop it. Took it to the dealer and was told there was nothing wrong and no rattle. On a trip yesterday I noticed the rattle stopped as I braked. So I then applied very light pressure on the brake pedal. So light it did not come off cruise. And the rattle stops. What is the likely cause? I want to be prepared with some ideas when I take it back to the dealer.
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I drive a '11 Sonata GLS and experience the rattling noise/clanking when weight shifts to the front-right of the car or when i go over a dip, and the noise is coming from the passenger side of the vehicle. I THINK it is the glove box issue that has been mentioned before and I am going to purchase some felt tape and apply this method [URL] .... that was posted here. Did this correct the issue?
And also when i reverse the car (specifically when I turn the wheel to the right) I get a knocking noise, which seems to also be coming from the front-right (or back) I can't tell. Can this be an axle? I'm at 79k mileage so the dealership wants $125 to diagnose the problem and that amount will go towards anything needing repair. Should I take the car to another shop instead?
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When going down the road I notice a rattle noise coming from the steering column area. I took it to the dealer a week or so after noticing it. I purchased the car brand new and like I said I took it to the dealer a week after purchasing it and they said they could not find anything and said they zip tied the brake lines or some bs hoping that would solve my problem.
It is now kind of obvious and I am going to take it back in to another dealership that has a better reputation.
I took a video last night so you can hear the noise I am talking about.
2013 Hyundai Sonata steering column rattle - YouTube
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My 2011 sonata rattles when starting. It sounds like noisy lifters and quits after 2-3 seconds. It does not do it on the first start-up of the day, but on subsequent starts when the engine is warm.
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