Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Used Faulty Cellphone Charger Now Car Is Not Starting
Sep 5, 2016
So I tried using a faulty cellphone charger in one of my charging ports. I heard a loud click and now my car is not starting. So, the first thing I looked at was the fuse for the start and engine, thinking they may have been blown, but that was not the case.... Where do I go from here?
I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0T
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I have a 2007 Dodge Charger. Battery light came on, I had AAA come out to me to test everything because I didn't want to be stranded just in case the car died while I was out doing errands.
I forget the name, but he connects it to the battery. It tested the alternator, battery and the starter. Turns out, the alternator had an open diode. Battery was in good shape and the starter too.
I ordered a battery, and had to wait to get it installed because my mechanic was busy working on a whole bunch of other cars. So I had to use the whining alternator for a whole week before I could get the new one in.
But he got it installed. And put everything back together where it should be (I think). He told me to start the car. It started up beautifully! No troubles at all.
A couple days later, it started to struggle cranking to start. Taking into account the battery and starter are good and the alternator is like-new (refurbished). I do not understand why it's having issues.
There's no battery light on. Why would it, a couple days later, start having an issue? Could my mechanic have not fully connected wires to the alternator? When loosening the idle arm to loosen the belt, could the have messed with the timing?
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Yesterday I took my car out, stopped at a gas station and the car wouldn't start. When trying to start it, everything inside would come on but it would just click. We were able to jump start it. After that I was able to start it 2 more times. the next time i tried to start it, it did the same thing, but the jump didn't work. We went and bought a new battery and it still isn't starting. It isn't clicking anymore though. It kinda hums when it tries to turn over. Does this seem like a starter issue?
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I have a very intermittent problem when starting my car. Usually it is when it's very hot outside, although not always. Start the car with the AC on, recirc, after about 3-5 seconds its a very loud "slide whistle" type sound (going from lower to higher, pretty high pitched). It only lasts about a second and sounds like something opening and creaking? Brought it to the dealership before, but its so intermittent that I doubt they tried very hard to find it. It probably only happens once or twice a month and will not duplicate if I turn off the car and start it again.
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I've owned my 2012 sonata 4 cylinder since new. It now has 54k and all of a sudden tonight it is hard starting. I drove it to my buddies to put my snow tires on and after I was done I went to start it and it cranked over a bunch before starting. It's not slow like a battery. Part way home the check engine light came on. I came home disconnected the battery. Tightened the gas cap just in case and tried starting it again after 1/2 hour. Still cranked a bunch before it started. When it starts it idles smooth still. When I give it gas from idle it sputters a bit then revs right up.
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My wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
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Went to start the car this mourning & it was completely dead. No power to anything. Last used the car on friday & everything was fine. It looks like the fuse on the + lead is blown but I don't know how to replace it.
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I have a 2011 Sonata and had the front pads and rotors changed a few months ago. Started to hear this squeaking noise when starting up from a stop (between ~5-15 mph). Check out the audio/video here...this is me basically holding my cellphone out of the driver side window: [URL] ....
It occurs intermittently and sometimes doesn't occur at all. The more the car is warmed up, the more often it seems to occur. Techs at Hyundai couldn't figure it out. They made me replace the rotors and pads with OEM parts and surprise, surprise, the same exact noise is occurring. I don't see how it can be wheel bearings...there is no rumbling noise or roughness at all. But the squeaking is killing me.
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So I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
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I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
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Just purchased the 2012 GLS this past Saturday and everything is good except for one thing. My dome light even in the "door" position stays on after starting the car and driving. I have to manually switch it to off to turn the interior light off, which is annoying. I called the dealership today and they had no prior experience with that problem. BTW, I did have a sunroof installed.
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The car basically struggles to crank. Today it failed to completely start. It took multiple tries at turning the key to get it kick and each time the car would chug until it started.
About a month ago, the dealership said she needed a new battery when she took her car in for an oil change. They told her at that time that they found the car to take longer than normal to crank and wanted to charge $80 for a battery, sale price (normally $150 at dealership). She declined at the time.
When I used the car since then it cranked fine, about a good 3-4 seconds. We had the battery tested at discount auto and they found the battery to work fine and out-put more than enough cranking amps.
Last week she was away for a few days and had the car sit untouched. But when she came back she went on a small 100+mile road trip with the car and it ran fine. And when she came back from that, she took the car to do some errands around town. Today, the car took much longer than usual to fully start.
I don't think it's the battery. Possibly something with ignition. Engine turns over, so it is getting adequate power from the battery to the starter. Engine doesn't misfire. No engine-lights on the dashboard, nothing.
2011 Sonata 2.4L
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Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
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I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
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I have a hyndai Sonata v6. It is 2006 model and has done 86K miles. It recently failed the inspection and I was told it has faulty oxygen sensors. I have replaced the sensors. But now I am advised by the mechanic that I need to drive abut 200 miles before I can take it for the inspection again because it takes some time for the sensors to get adjusted. Is that true ?
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If I have my key fob and cellphone in the same pocket I can open up the car with no issue by walking up to the vehicle, but when I try to start the vehicle the digital dash says " No Key Detected ". When I separate the key fob from the cell phone then the car can detect the key fob. (if I remove the fob out of my pocket and leave the phone or if I remove the phone and leave the fob it will detect the key and I'm able to start the vehicle).
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I have a 2010 Prius II. where is the place to charge a cellphone? I see a black cover low on the dashboard, but there doesn't seem to be anything below it.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I have a 2011 Camry LE 2.5L 4cyl that is starting to burn oil, I would say that it goes from the full to low mark every 5000km (3000mi). I have been using Toyota 0w20 oil since day 1, it has about 242,000km (151k miles) on it currently. Do you think switching to a thicker oil such as 5w20 would work?
I love the Camry, I had a 2006 2.4L SE before. To me, the Camry strikes a perfect balance between style, functionality, and of course reliability.
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I have a 2010 Sonata GLS that isn't starting. I have full battery and plenty of gas. It doesn't click or anything, but all of the lights and electrical equipment work fine. Is there a common problem with this car that causes it not to start?
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2011 Camry LE, 76k, new alternator, stars well cold, battery good, runs well... Just takes longer to start after its warm, cranks well, engine turns over well, idle great....
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