Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Transmission Slip Like Winding Up To Get The Vehicle To Move
Jan 14, 2017
I have a 2014 Sonata GLS. This has happened 3 times so far. I often drive around looking at houses for sale etc. Sometimes I drive for 1 to 2 hours, usually low speeds under 20 to 30 mph.
So I come to a stop, start to accelerate and notice my transmission is having trouble engaging, I liken it to transmission slip, like winding up to get the vehicle to move. I also notice my dash gear indicator light is blank. No "D" in the display box, just empty. I stop at a safe spot, put the vehicle in park.
It will not release from park when I try to shift into gear again. I decided turn the vehicle off, re-start the car, and all is well, tranny works, dash indicator is back and all is good.
I drive the vehicle mostly at highway speeds to/from work with no issues. Each time this has happened its after driving at that low speed for at least an hour and a half or more. I haven't taken it to dealer yet.
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2000 Intrigue 144,000 miles.
When you first start it up, the vehicle won't move in any gear. After a while of idling, it may start to drive, but the engine RPMs are way too high for the corresponding speed that you're driving. 4000 RPMs to hold 45 MPH.
Could this be the input piston? I've heard those wear and then don't seal well, bleeding off fluid pressure. Torque converter?
Also, the one diagnostic code is P0742 - TCC stuck on. I realize that this could be unrelated to the vehicle not moving when cold.
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My 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
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I bought a used 89' Ford e150. Automatic transmission, 194k mi. I fixed it up a bit and it is very much drivable. I just took it up to northern az and then back down. I had to have it towed recently and now my transmission is acting up. When I want to move it i put it into gear, either reverse or drive, now while accelerating slowly the vehicle doesn't move for several seconds until the transmission catches and it then starts to move. It does this now while driving and having to stop for lights and signs. It has a delay until the transmission catches. I wonder if the vehicle is dragged up on to a flatbed tow truck this can damage my transmission or driveshaft And cause this. What can I do to fix it
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When I drive normally using the pedal, I can see slight movements of the tachometer as the torque converter locks and unlocks (this is normal when lifting off the gas and pushing it again). However, I notice when my cruise is set that my tach doesn't move at all, it doesn't matter if I'm going downhill, uphill, or whatever. It stays frozen wherever it's at when I hit the "set" button. Maybe the torque converter stays locked when the cruise is set? This isn't a problem, it just seems odd to me.
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My mom has a 2016 Sonata that recently has started experiencing some issues with the gear shift. A few weeks back my stepdad was not able to get the gear shift to move out of park. Finally, my step brother did get it to go into drive, but then could not get back into park (he could only get into neutral), so my mom took it to have it looked at. While at the dealer someone there was able to get the gear shift to work and we thought everything was okay. That was until today when my stepdad could not get it out of park again. I noticed today that button on the shift knob was fully depressed while in park. I did attempt to use the shift lock release per the instructions in the manual with no luck.
My mom is going to call Hyundai in the morning to see what they can do for her, as the car is parked at minimart right now.
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I pulled into my garage yesterday and when I tried to move the transmission into Park it would not move. I tried turning the engine off and nothing would allow the transmission selector to move. I thought I would have to push something into the transmission lock slot but the only thing I had that was close to being able to fit into the small slot was the key in the FOB but it would not fit. By pure chance I happen to push on the transmission selector to the right and it moved over and then I was able to push it forward into Park. I must have pushed the selector into the sport mode when I entered the garage.
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I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai sonata and my steering wheel and body of vehicle vibrate either when I'm in idle or when I stop at a red light and once I let go of the brake and accelerate It stops. What can I do?
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Yesterday while backing up, my Prius made a very weird noise that I have never heard it make before- it sounded like the "winding" noise a car with a manual transmission makes when its in reverse It was going wa-wa-wa and once I stopped the car, it stopped and hasn't done it again.
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I have a 2008 Hyundai Sonata Limited.
I recently noticed a burnt rubber smell after driving on some winding roads where I live. It's only coming from one side of the car. So I had it in for an oil change and tire rotation on Saturday and they told me the following:
My front brakes were 13. My left rear (5) is wearing harder than my right rear (10). Could this be a caliper issue? Or maybe something is just stuck? Maybe take off the tires and lube or grease things up. There aren't any recalls other than a stop lamp switch.
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I've been driving my wife's sonata to work this week and notice as I start to slow down at around 20MPH the car almost surges a little bit. Maybe I am not diagnosing it correctly but it's almost like it's downshifting rough.
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I have a Sonata 2011 YF , with 2.4 GDI and 58,000 miles. There is an engine's oil leakage dripping on the ground exactly from the area between the engine and the transmission gear box where probably the o-ring ( i assume) is placed. The car is no longer covered by warranty.
The workshop guy says that the O-ring (i am not sure what exactly is called in English) needs to be changed and that process will have to drop down the whole gearbox (which is expensive and rather unsafe to) , so i am thinking about any other solutions that might be a great deal (using engine oil with more thick viscosity 10W50, 10W60 since i am living in an extremely hot conditions)?
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2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
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I have the Sonata 2013 GLS and I've noticed the transmission is slipping. I drive it hard.
So the guy said he was going to call me, never called me back. I called 3 times and no one knew what the 30k service included. it was a simple question, I just asked if they could check when was the last time I had a transmission service.
I tried checking the level but it has no dipstick. what should I do? my car has 54,000.
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This morning while driving on the freeway, the the transmission stopped shifting into 6th gear. This was at 70 mph. The only way it would shift up to 6th is by using the manual mode, however after manually shifting to 6th I moved the stick back over and it immediately downshifted to 5th at 70+ mph. Concerned, I pulled off and turned the engine off. After i restarted the engine, I continued to my destination and the trans shifted up to 6th on its own. The car has never done this.
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I was wondering if there is a dipstick for checking the automatic transaxle fluid. I have searched my car and the owner's manual but have yet to find anything that addresses the auto transaxle. If I have managed to overlook it just give me a page number in the manual.
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2011 w/ 80k 6 spd man w/column start.
The last couple of months getting first crank attempt symptoms. Cranks fine but won't turn over. 2nd time fine. No OBD codes. Other times np at all. But today big problem.
- Started fine @ 5 degrees F (unusual for area)
- Warmed up fine
- Left in parking lot for 10 min
- Attempted start, could not. Then again the next 8 times.
- Finally wore down battery. Had it towed to dealer (I could feel the pocket suction)
Explained issue to dealer. 3 hrs later they called. Said it was the battery, had only 290 cc left. I explained before I wore it down there was plenty of power avail. Whatever, screwed anyway -- pay $115 diag or $149 for battery, just take the battery I said.
Took it home, seems fine for now but explained if I have to take my very sick son out in cold weather tomorrow there will be repercussions. Anyway, the whole situation is bizarre.
I've looked on other threads with auto tns and brake switch issues but that does not apply to manual. Only requirement is step on clutch. I read about crankshaft sensor but no codes. Only thing I found was perhaps loose fuses or wiring but dealer said they checked that and whole system is good.
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My car has developed a strange engine/transmission shudder that occurs only between the temps of 32-50F. It happens when the car is still warming up, when I pull up to a red light and put my foot on the brake pedal the front end makes a vibrating/shuddering noise. You can only hear it from the inside, it sounds like something under the hood or maybe dash is vibrating.
If I shift into neutral or park it goes away. It looks like the RPM drops in drive, but it won't happen when the car is warmed up or if its colder (20F) or warmer out (50F). I recently installed a front strut bar, but I'm not sure it's responsible for causing the vibration I'm hearing.
I checked the oil level this morning, it's right at the full mark. I might try some injector cleaner but it's worth noting Hyundai recommends frequent spark plug replacement in these engines. I believe the manual states to change the spark plugs at 45K, more frequently if the car idles or is driven at slow speeds. I've also seen the 2011 manual indicate to change the plugs out at 22.5K.
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Have this problem when the temperature is below 30F? This problem appeared one day when the car was parked outside overnight and the temperature dipped into the 20s. It refuses to upshift to 2nd from 1st unless driven for 10 minutes or so and will grind when downshifting to first even from 3 mph. The upshift to 2nd feels like a wall blocking so I just end up shifting to 3rd straight from 1st until it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so. Worn syncros? Shift fork/linkages? Dragging clutch? I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the fluid first but new fluid will not fix mechanical problems if indeed that's what it is. Strange part is that both 1 and 2 both started to have the problem at the same time so how can both synchros go out at once and this problem only appeared this winter and not last winter so it doesn't seem like its an inherent problem from the start.
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Car intermittently shifts very rough and jerky. Just took on a long vacation trip and every AM when it was cold it shifted hard them smoothed out once warmed up. Got home and now it is doing it all the time. Dealer said do the trans flush...I did it and it made no difference. Is this a common problem with this model? Mileage is 39,800...not sure I want to buy this car at lease end.
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