Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Transmission Shift Delayed - RPMS Increased
Jul 6, 2013
2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
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I bought a used VW 1.8T with Tiptronic Transmission ~88,500 miles, so I don't know what is normal and what I should be concerned with (I'm a stick shift person, bought this to be the family car). I particularly notice what seems to be a delayed shift when going up hill RPMs go up to ~4k before the shift. Is this a late shift?I've been reading a fair bit of online fora about the need to change the ATF + filter + clean the pan every 30-40k.
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In my f100 the c6 had low miles on a rebuild and sat for probably 10 years, I have put around 14k miles on it since I got it. I have had a issue with it having a random delayed/flared 3rd shift point. If I am getting on it and miss letting off the throttle to let it shift. I have kept a eye on the fluid since it leaks all over the place, its about 1/2 quart for 2k miles and use type f. A week ago it stopped auto shifting into 3rd and have been manually shifting it to 3rd, when doing that it will then auto 3-2 and 2-3.
I got a superior R servo since I was unsure what I had and did not spend a lot on it, what is this r servo i pulled. The fluid that came out the servo housing had a lot of metallic shavings and smelt burnt, I also think the spring was installed backwards. I got 3rd back and in due time I will see if I still have delayed/flared 3rd shift, it has always had a hard 1-2 and 2-1 shift. This c6 has a transgo shift kit and I have a B&M kit in a valve body sitting from a wide band build I never completed. left superior and right unknown...
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I have a 2013 Sonata Limited with an odd problem. Once every 10 starts or so, I depress the start button and the car starts up but only after a few seconds' delay. I don't hear anything during those few seconds, no cranking, clicking, or other noises. Normally, the engine turns over immediately, but every now and then, there's that odd delay.
When I get into the car, the photo of the car and the word "Sonata" do show up on the center of the dashboard, so the car seems to be detecting the key OK (and I already changed the batteries in the smart keys). This delay in turning over seems not to be related to the coldness of the car (it has happened both when the car hasn't been used for a few days and when the car was used maybe 15 minutes ago). I should add that this does NOT seem to be the brake sensor issue that I had with the 2011 Sonata SE that I leased previously, as the ESC light isn't coming on.
The car is on its original battery, so I'm wondering if this indicates that the battery is weakening. Also, the car has been in a garage where there is construction work occurring with a fair amount of dust.
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2014 F250 automatic- 35k miles... just started having an issue. Noticed when the transmission is cold, the shift from 2nd to 3rd is almost delayed. It's enough of a pause you can feel it then it shifts. Weird thing is it only does for the first 3 stop signs leaving my house. Once the trans starts getting some temperature to it, it shifts perfect. I checked the fluid while hot and it showed a little low. I drove it after adding fluid but will have to wait till it's cold to see if it's any better... Think it was the fluid? But why just 2nd to 3rd gear only?
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I own a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. Two months ago I realized that my transmission shift occasionally while I am driving, especially when the weather is cold and I park my vehicle for more than one day. Then my engine check light came, after two days it went off. I went to the dealership and ask for a multi-point inspection (without telling the inspector the transmission problem), they recommend a transmission fluid flush, then I went to an auto part shop to ask for reading engine check light code, they see P0711. After researches online, I understand this code is about transmission fluid or transmission fluid sensor defect.
My question is that, would a dirty transmission fluid cause the P0711 code, as some people stated online ?
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My parents are having trouble with there 2008 Santa fe 3.3 L. The transmission won't shift and the rpm's climb really high. Does that mean the transmission is going or is it something else.
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I've got a problem with my '96 Tbird that's really stumping me. It started with a little shake when I gave the car gas. I don't know if it's related, but I ran over some debris on the highway at around 70mph. [No chance to avoid, unfortunately] That same day it felt like the car was missing, and throughout the week it got worse and worse. It would shake harder and faster with increased RPM's. By the end of the week, it was so bad I kept the car off the road.
I thought it was a bad misfire, so I changed the plugs, then the wires, then the EGR and EGR solenoid [from JY] and swapped a coilpack from my other car. It ended up being the harmonic balancer, it spun a 180, not a surprise on an 18 year old car. I've never had one go bad, so I didn't even think of that as a possibility with the way the car felt. [I've been working on cars for a long time.] It never threw a code once, so I had nothing to go by to begin with.
So over the weekend I swapped out the balancer, and buttoned everything up. Ran fine! No shake! But then I had gotten a new problem.
The idle started to get bad. Very bad. It would lope, lope then almost try to stall, especially when the fans kicked on or I put it into gear. Since this car is my daily driver, I had it at work while I started to undo the new stuff I put on it. I started with the just unpluging the battery for 3 hours. Didn't work. So I pulled the new plugs, reverted them back to the old ones. It didn't work. Leaving work that day I noticed if I pull the IAC connector, the idle smooths out some, but it doesn't stall. [Suspect, maybe?]
So I figured it was the EGR, or solenoid, so I changed them both out. Nothing worked, still was horrible. Frustrated I changed out the coil pack and wires. It's still horrible.
I don't drive the car now, it stalled out a few times in traffic on the way back before I swapped everything back out.
The icing on the cake is that it has not thrown a single code except for when I unplug the IAC. And the only code it throws is barking at me for doing so.
It really feels like a bad vacuum leak. I've run down every single line and there's nothing leaking or rotten. The IAC is in question, but the car was working perfectly fine for at least a year with no problems whatsoever. So how the IAC went bad right after changing everything and a new harmonic balancer is way beyond me.
I'm thinking too maybe I damaged the Crank Position Sensor when I installed the balancer, since it was a one piece unit with the pick-up gear. But, I was careful with it, used a puller installer, and there is appropriate distance between the sensor and gear. Also, I'm not sure, but I doubt the Crank Sensor going bad would effect idle. Any RPM above 1500 is smooth, and doesn't surge.
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
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So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
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2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
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Here is what my 11 camry le/4 cy/34K-hwy miles does at highway speeds
- 65 to 70 take the foot off the gas and feels like a clunk, also happens at 35-40.
I have felt the slow down affect at 40 and it doesn't feel the same. Also, coming out of parking spot - the rpms went up but the car didn't go but suddenly jumped - like the tranny is slipping.
I took it in to the dealer X3, "camrys do that", reset the ECM, thinking of selling this thing - my Honda's have never given me any problems but they are much noisier but I can handle noise vs worrying the tranny will crap out on me in a few years.
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I am having issues with my 2003 F150 4.6L truck. It just happened today when driving home. It started fine and then when I increased the speed and the rpms went up to about 2000rpms, the engine seemed to slip into neutral. I stepped on the gas but the truck would not accelerate, it was just coasting. I pulled over to the side of the road and came to a stop, but didn't shut off the engine.
After a few seconds, I proceeded to give it some gas, and it engaged in gear and accelerated...until I got to about 25mph & rpms increased to about 2000 again. It did the same exact thing....seemed to shift back to neutral so that I could not accelerate. I had to keep pulling over to come to a stop, and then slowly proceed again. I wasn't too far from home & I made it. What this issue could be?
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My transmission is having issues switching from 1st to 2nd gear and same issue from 5th to 6th. What happens, (when attempting to switch from 1st to 2nd) RPMs rev up high (as though it is in Neutral) then after 2-3 sec it shifts, car jumps crazy and in like 1 sec it shifts down (to 1st - RPMs jump) then shifts to 2nd gear and from there it is fine. 3rd to 4th, to 5th is great, but 5th to 6th same issue, not as extreme, but similar. If i let go of gas when it should shift to 2nd gear, and wait like 2 sec, it will be in 2nd gear without jerking - Normal.
Sometimes in Park there is this noise as though something metal is hitting another metal part, and I can feel it in car - but it goes away and only happens from time to time. Also Neutral on rare occasion works as Reverse - super rare. I did Stall test (per Hyundai procedure Bulletin 13-AT-007) - no issues. Dealer ran diagnostic - no Codes in transmission. Flushed fluid - didn't work. I drained fluid again, put new fluid in and checked ATF level per 13-AT-006 - no difference. Tested Solenoids - no problem there. What could be an issue with my transmission?? 2012 Sonata GLS 2.4L with 7k miles.
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I've got up two weekends in a row to this : 20130922_064713_zpsd7701bd3.jpg
All of the warning lights on my dash are lit up. I cannot put the car in gear due to the drive not showing up. The RPM's show 0, then after a few seconds they bump and start working. After restarting car a few times it finally goes away. Everything but the check engine lights. Anything to try before I put it in the shop tomorrow?
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I bought my 2011 sonata gls last year and it has always had a bit of an issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The best way to describe it would be if someone where dumping the clutch and you get that sudden, hard acceleration with a bit of rev flare and then back down the lower revs. It doesn't do it every time it shifts, but enough that it is very annoying. I've had it in the dealership twice for this issue but I get the same "We can replicate the issue" song and dance. They tell me there is no code, and no history of any code. I had the trans position sensor replaced under warranty late last year.
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The past couple of weeks I have noticed my car is hard to shift out of park when I first start it after a few hours. After I get it out of park it is good until the next time I let it cool off for a little bit. It will sometime thump too when I shift to reverse no matter if im on an incline to parked flat. I have changed the transmission fluid twice and I have 60k on it so I don't think that would have anything to do with it. Also, is this something that could cause serious damage because if it isn't I don't really care about it but if it does I would like to fix it.
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2011 Sonata- Both the gear indicator light on the dashboard and the gear indicator lights at the gear shift suddently stopped working. No way to tell what gear without any lights. Is this a fuse type problem perhaps?
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