Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Tachometer Does Not Move At All When Cruise Is Set
May 1, 2013
When I drive normally using the pedal, I can see slight movements of the tachometer as the torque converter locks and unlocks (this is normal when lifting off the gas and pushing it again). However, I notice when my cruise is set that my tach doesn't move at all, it doesn't matter if I'm going downhill, uphill, or whatever. It stays frozen wherever it's at when I hit the "set" button. Maybe the torque converter stays locked when the cruise is set? This isn't a problem, it just seems odd to me.
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Been trying to save my miles on my 2011 GLS because I'm right at 100k (99.2K to be exact) and had a feeling something would be going wrong soon. Already had short block replacement, both CV axles replaced, steering columns, seized calipers, transmission sensors, and other repairs all done under warranty work for this stinker.
Driving to work today hear a clunk as I am driving uphill, tachometer immediately goes to zero, engine begins violently shaking, and traction control light comes on for some reason. Had my OBD scanner already plugged in and it pulls P0336 code for a crankshaft position sensor. Fortunately was close enough to home so that I drove it back and took the train to work. Probably going to take it to dealership tonight. The clunk and violent idle leads me to believe its more than a sensor problem. Car has had issues shifting over past month, but was so sporadic and not able to ever be replicated. Would maybe have a hard shift once every 2 weeks. That's about it.
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My 2004 Camry will not start; I have never had any starting issues before and the car was running perfectly hours before the problem started.
The battery is fully charged
The fuel pump is operating
The ignition and fuel pump fuses and relays are good
When I attempt to start the car everything sounds normal, but engine never starts and the tachometer does not move.
Additionally a soft buzzing noise starts coming from somewhere near the air filter box. The sound can be stopped by removing the "EFI" fuse. Disconnecting the injectors does not stop the sound.
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I've had the fuel injectors cleaned and fuel filter changed.I notice it when im at a stop light, dont know if it does it in Park. Iv been told if it was the spark plugs or wires that the check engine light would turn on, and its not on. What should I check next????
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My mom has a 2016 Sonata that recently has started experiencing some issues with the gear shift. A few weeks back my stepdad was not able to get the gear shift to move out of park. Finally, my step brother did get it to go into drive, but then could not get back into park (he could only get into neutral), so my mom took it to have it looked at. While at the dealer someone there was able to get the gear shift to work and we thought everything was okay. That was until today when my stepdad could not get it out of park again. I noticed today that button on the shift knob was fully depressed while in park. I did attempt to use the shift lock release per the instructions in the manual with no luck.
My mom is going to call Hyundai in the morning to see what they can do for her, as the car is parked at minimart right now.
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I have a 2014 Sonata GLS. This has happened 3 times so far. I often drive around looking at houses for sale etc. Sometimes I drive for 1 to 2 hours, usually low speeds under 20 to 30 mph.
So I come to a stop, start to accelerate and notice my transmission is having trouble engaging, I liken it to transmission slip, like winding up to get the vehicle to move. I also notice my dash gear indicator light is blank. No "D" in the display box, just empty. I stop at a safe spot, put the vehicle in park.
It will not release from park when I try to shift into gear again. I decided turn the vehicle off, re-start the car, and all is well, tranny works, dash indicator is back and all is good.
I drive the vehicle mostly at highway speeds to/from work with no issues. Each time this has happened its after driving at that low speed for at least an hour and a half or more. I haven't taken it to dealer yet.
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My cruise control works just fine when my headlights are off as do my brake lights, but when i turn the lights on the cruise won't engage and the brake lights don't work. I've got 150K on the car so no longer under warranty...
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2012 GLS ... For a few weeks after buying my car, the cruise control electronics were perfectly responsive.
I find that after a few thousands miles, I am able to turn ON the cruise control easily, but often now pressing the 'Set' button doesn't do anything until I press the On/Off button and turn it back on, hit Cancel a bunch of times, and THEN it might let me 'Set' the CC.
It kind of scares me to think that the CC could malfunction and not let me turn it off AT ALL one day, which is far worse than simply not being able to set the CC.
Would the dealer be able to simply "reset" the electronics pertaining to these controls?
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I've had my Sonata for six days, and I love it... Except... The cruise control doesn't work. At all. Never did. I tried pulling up on the brake pedal like another poster had suggested, but that didn't do a thing. Looks like a trip to the dealership is in order...
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Mine has done it a few times now. It seems to do it going up a very long gradual to steeper incline, such as climbing some mountains, when set to 60 MPH. It'll start dropping down until it gets to about 47 +/- MPH, then the cruise just kicks off. No downshifting in sight...
There's a stretch of route 219 through PA heading north towards NY that I encounter about once a month. Yesterday was the 2nd time I've had my Sonata on this trip, and it did it again. It actually did it twice last month on this trip.
The dealer reset the transmission computer due to very cold weather "slipping" from 1-2 shift after the first trip. It appears that didn't take care of this issue, though I didn't mention it to the dealer at the time (it slipped my mind).
I'm reluctant to take it to the dealer, since odds are they won't be able to duplicate the issue. We don't have any roads around here quite like the one this happens on.
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Had an odd event this morning on my drive into work. Put the cruise control on at about 75 mph, after several mins came up to traffic and as I pressed the brake the car began to speed up and the engine revved up, I had to press the cancel button on the cruise control to disengage it. Immediately after disengaging it, the ESC came on solid. Once at work, I re-started the car without issue and the ESC light went off. Didn't try the cruise control again on the drive in.
2011 Sonata Limited with approx. 55K. Bought new in Feb in 2010. I have had the brake stop recall performed several years ago.
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Just had a question about my 00 F250 7.3. I recently have noticed that my tachometer needle will not always move the way its supposed to. Sometimes it will sit at zero until I drive it for a min then all of a sudden pops up to where its supposed to be. I also noticed today that while i was driving it just dropped to zero for a second or two then back up to where it was supposed to be again.
When it does this there is no drivability issues with it or idle issues what so ever. Which is strange to me and I cannot seem to put my finger on what could be causing the issue. As I have searched online for a while to no avail as most of the other issues include drivability and idle issues. Also not that it matters but I have recently replace the cps sensor with a new one OEM of course but i don't think that has anything to do with this problem.
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When I turn my Cruise Control "On" it will light up green on my dashboard, However when I press the "set" button to set the speed nothing happens. It was working fine a few weeks ago. Could it be a fuse? If so what fuse? How I can fix this? 2011 Sonata
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2012 Sonata Limited... I purchased my car in November of 2011. It had allegedly been driven for 5500 miles by a salesperson at the dealership.
Within a week, both my husband and I noticed that the cruise control would simply not go on every once in a while. The dealer claims to have taken apart the cruise control, looking for problems, but says there are no problems; that I should come back in after docummenting problems more specifically.
I also continue to hear the creaking noise in the sun-roof area. Allegedly, the Body Shop adjusted the headliner clips, but I still hear creaking.
I am most concerned with the cruise control, but annoyed at the dealer for keeping my car for over two weeks and having achieved nothing. I like the car, but this kind of a start with it makes me want to sell it and go get either another Honda or a used Volvo.
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My 2012 Sonata is flaking in the grey area on the steering wheel around the cruise and volume controls. Is there a remedy? Would it be covered under warranty? It's nothing major, but annoying none the less.
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So I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata since May of 2013 and I've had few problems with it until now. For some reason, at seemingly completely random intervals, my cruise control will completely stop working while I'm driving. What exactly I mean by this is that I'll be driving with cruise control set and suddenly it kicks off and I have to continue by manually controlling the gas pedal. I am also completely unable to turn Cruise back on until I have shut off the car and turned it back on. There are also times where I'll have Cruise control "On" but not using it and suddenly the Cruise indicator light on the dash will disappear, I'll try to turn on Cruise at that point and it will not work. Again this is the case until I turn the car off and then back on again.
I have followed a couple guides on adjusting the wiring harness in the steering wheel, behind the air bag, to make sure it is not a loose connector issue, but this has not seemed to work. Another reason why I think this may be something more than just that is that I'm also having transmission issues that seem to correlate with the times that my car loses the ability to use Cruise Control. Everything is completely fine with the car, including the transmission, until the above mentioned issue occurs, at which point if I happen to be driving below about 50mph, or reach a point where I have to slow down below 50mph, my transmission begins to intermittently disengage and reengage fairly erratically. It has happened a couple times while cruising at around 65-70mph, but has acted the worst bellow 50mph.
To make things even MORE confusing, the transmission issues seem to correct themselves with a simple shut down and restart of the car, just like with the Cruise Control problem. I'm at a complete loss now. I don't want to deal with a dealership unless I absolutely have to.
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Bought a 2012 Sonata GLS back on July 3rd. I've had 3 instances where I'll be running on cruise control, I'll disengage it and then when I go to resume it doesn't do anything. I can turn Cruise on and off but it will not Set nor Resume. I have to stop and turn the car off and then back on for it to work again. I have a service appointment this Saturday for an alignment issue so I'm going to have them check this out too.
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So today i went and got my GIAC stage 2 flash on my 2011 gti. Once everything was installed back into the car , i took it for a test drive and once i got into second gear i had my EPC and Check Engine light come on along with the tachometer dropping to 0 rpms. Went back to the shop and diagnosed a Cylinder 2 misfire. Ended up replacing the coil pack with a new one and that was fixed. As far as my tachometer, it was still on 0. Took the car for another ride with the guy who flashed it running Vag on the car and everything was working fine.
Ecu was reading the rpms. Went back to the shop and did a test on the tachometer and it works when fine. The cluster also has the staging feature when i turn the car on before i start and that works fine, just doesn't read rpms while the car is running. Everyone was stumbled at the shop and they said they haven't had this problem before. Just wanted to also note that i also unclipped the harness for the Soundaktor but I am not sure if that has an affect on the tachometer or the cluster itself.
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I have a 2011 Corolla LE with the automatic transmission. When traveling at a constant highway speed (i.e. 60 mph), the tachometer will start jumping around. It will jump up than down by anywhere from 200 rpm to 1000 rpm. It only lasts a few seconds then returns to normal. The dealer is saying that is just the electronic controlled transmission selecting the correct gear. I have never heard of this in any other car.
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I have a 2011 Elantra Limited with 63k miles on it. My car started with having troubles starting after filling up with gas, then it moved to about once every 25 times I started my car, the tachometer wouldn't turn on, and the car would have poor drivability shifting gears. Now it has progressed to stalling at stop lights. It has only done it when the car is warm and I'm stopped at longer lights. Will just die, but can be restarted after a couple tries. However on restart, the tachometer doesn't work and again with poor shifting. I typically have to turn off the road and stop my car and start it again and it's fine.
I just had a new battery as well as new spark plugs and spark plug wires replaced. Car dealership cannot recreate problem so they say there is nothing they can do.
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I have a Santa Fe Style CRDI Auto from 2011 which is not covered by Warranty and has only done 6000 miles.
The problem is that the Gear Stick Won't Move from the 'Park' position (with the engine on and brake fully pressed down).
There have been issues over the last couple of weeks where it was difficult to move the gear stick at times but it was fine after waiting a few seconds. Now it seems completely stuck.
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