Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: TPMS Warning Light Started Flashing Then Came On Steady
Dec 1, 2012
Today I drove about 250 miles, round trip. About 75 miles from home, my TPMS warning light started flashing, then came on steady. I also received the Blue Link message about problems with the TPMS system. We pulled off the interstate at the next service station (about 3 miles) and checked all of the tires. All 4 read exactly 33 psi.
Restarted the car and continued on. After about a mile, the light turned off. About 10 miles later, the light started flashing again. It flashed for about 2 minutes then shut off again. We continued home without seeing anything more from the light.
The only thing at all out of the ordinary, is that the temperature has changed from a high of 35F earlier in the week to 70F today. There is a lot of moisture on the ground. Is it possible condensation may have affected a sensor? I have a 2013 GLS with 2800 miles on it.
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2-3 times a month the yellow TPMS light with exclamation point comes on, blinks about 10 times, and stays on steady. It's been doing this pretty consistently since I got the car, with one exception. I have a separate set of wheels & snow tires for winter and those have their own sensors. When I had those on the car for 2 months, I never saw the TPMS light. As soon as I put the OEM wheels back on, it lit again.
So finally I went to the dealer today. I figured it was a bad sensor. Naturally the light wasn't on when I got there. They scanned it and saw in the history a communication failure with all four wheels. They called Hyundai, then came back and told me that electronic equipment that I'm driving past can set it off. They mentioned banks & cell towers, among other things.
I don't think this is my issue. I travel the same route every day. The light comes on intermittently, sometimes when I'm on a rural highway away from any electronics. And I drive by plenty of banks and cell towers without it coming on.
So they didn't do anything for me. I'm at 43K. My concern is once I hit 60K and the warranty is done, if the TPMS brain croaks, I'll be on the hook for it.
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The light flashes then turns solid. I checked the pressure to find 32lbs in the tires. I pumped them back up to 36 front, 35 rear (per suggestions here to minimize steering wander).
The light remains on. Knowing the pressures were fine, I have driven it several days to see if the light goes out on its own. No dice.
While driving last week, the wife asked about this and we pressed the Blue Link connect button. The service rep who responded said she saw no pressure warning on her remote panel.
Over the weekend, I tried inflating the tires to 40psi, thinking that the higher pressure would reset the light and then I could lower the pressure to normal levels. That did not work, either.
So yesterday, I called the dealer and the service rep said the system warns of BOTH under pressure and over pressure. She suggested setting the tires to the "sweet spot," at 35psi. I did this, and the light remains on.
I guess I will need drive to the dealer and let them piddle with it. I like the system, or at least the idea. But I hope I don't have to drive to the dealer after every attempt to maintain the tires.
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Flashing TPMS for 1 minute, then steady = TPMS malfunction. The problem seems to be that the TPMS controller somehow resets itself wrong at some random point and begins looking for 5.5 bar (~88psi) instead of 2.6 bar (~37psi).
Here's the instructions for the fix:
I went into the adaptation I found in the Ross Tech wiki here : [URL] ....
All I did was enter the security access code (01503) then changed the values for each channel to 2.6 which equates to about 38psi. Once all of them were set to 2.6 bar, I saved and exited. Started the car and now I no longer have the TPMS error.
YES, the security code works for the 2010 GTI.
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A couple of days ago the TPMS light started flashing on my 2004 GX. This morning I took it to a trusted tire shop. They checked each sensor, including the spare, and found they were all sending a signal. At 11 years old, and they are original as far as I know (I've owned it about 7 years), the tech said the signal may be too weak for the ECU to pick up. He didn't want to start changing sensors in the event it is an ECU issue. Not sure what to do for now, other than leave it alone. Is there a way to confirm the ECU is good? Do the scanners tell how strong the signal is?
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I have a 2006 Sonata 6-cyl with 124K miles on it that also has an engine light that stays on but the car runs fine with the solid light. Only on a COLD start, usually first thing in the morning, is when the engine light starts to flash and the car runs very rough. When the engine light flashes and the car is shut off for about 5 seconds and immediately restarted,the engine light again stays solid and the car runs fine. I have had this issue for approx 2 years.
One mechanic says the code that always comes up is "P0306" (cyl 6 misfire) when the engine light stays on solid. When the light flashes and the computer is read,it gives EIGHT separate codes and all are cylinder misfires (P0300-multiple misfires and then P0301 thru P0306 for each cylinder misfire).
One dealer in the Phoenix,AZ area says my #6 cylinder valve is sticking and I need a full valve job because they supposedly did a compression test on all cylinders (which I doubt they did). I have spent upwards of $2000.00 already at both the dealer and 2 other mechanics to try and find the issue. I feel it is an electrical problem (sensor or computer itself) because one would think the car should run rough ALL the time if it was the actual valve sticking,but it runs fine when the engine light stays solid. I am running out of time because my emission test is due in 4 months. I do not trust this dealer to diagnose this issue; they have proven to me they are incompetent and just want me to pay through the nose for possible fixes until they finally just happen to stumble upon the correct problem.
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Had the first flat, and after it was fixed, screen warning and yellow TPMS light don't go away. Does it reset itself automatically after 'x' ignition cycles, or do we need one of those TPMS tools to reset it? No mention of this in the manual. Need to know before I blame Discount Tire for damaging the sensor. But since they don't charge to fix flats, don't know if I'd be able to get anything from them.
It's a 2011 Sonata Limited.
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I have an 09 ES 350 that I decided to put some very nice subwoofers and amp in. When I found out that I needed more power, I took out my spare tire and mounted a second battery in where the tire is supposed to go.
We'll sure enough when I drove the car later the TPMS light came on and started flashing. The system has to be able to read all 5 TPMS sensors. 4 tires and the spare. So when I took the spare tire out, the system thought there was something wrong with that sensor and turned the light on.
So what I did was I took a piece of PVC pipe and 2 PVC caps, drilled a hole in one of the caps, inserted a new TPMS sensor into the cap, then glued everything together.
After it dried I pressurized it to 35 psi, mounted it in my trunk next to the jack, and reset the TPMS system so the light would go off. Now the TPMS system thinks the spare tire is back and there are no more problems.
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Today riding to work... the little TPMS light (looks like a tire with and ! in the middle) came on - Started blinking for a minute then went solid. so I pulled off the highway and checked my tire pressure.. all tires were 31 or above.. (S/B 33)
Topped off all tires w/ air and went back on the road - light didn't go out... then on the way home, it went off... and it wasn't the cold.. It was a 'balmy' 20 this morning...
Owner's manual says it was the TPMS system malfunctioning OR interference from outside... 2012 Sonata GLS ....
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TPMS sensor has recently came in and stays on. However i checked all 4 tires and the pressures in them are at the appropriate values. I am assuming this could be related to maybe the system just not "seeing" one of the sensors or something. I heard if you use an OBD2 adapter you can see the values reported and it will show exactly what tire is reporting the problem.
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Looking for some info about the 4wd system.
My car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.5 and several times i've seen the 4wd warning light start flashing. It happens right when i start up the engine, however if I turn the engine off and on again, the light will be off the next time it starts up.
I'm just trying to figure out what kind of problems this warning light would indicate, in case it stays on sometime. I like to plan ahead my car repairs and know what's going on with it. The car has like 190K + miles so it's getting there.
Also I try to avoid the dealer, so I was also wondering if a typical scan tool that most mechanics have could read the codes, or if would need to be done by Hyundai specifically.
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I had new tires put on last week. Two days after the TPMS light came on steady. All tires including the spare had 32 psi in them. That's what is listed on the door sill. I added a little more to 35 psi. Same result. I finally bumped it up to 40 psi. 4 shy of the max. It's been 2 days and no change. Since it's was a couple of days after the change is this a coincidence or is there some reset. I hate to disable it since its my wife's car. Also checked the switch under the dash.
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I did the blue wire cut-mod 20 minutes ago. I had a consistent blinking TPMS light. I cut the correct, blue, wire and grounded to a stud behind the kick panel. The light is now steadily lit. Was I supposed to disconnect the battery first?
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I have a 2009 Camry LE and I just got oem 2010 SE wheels for it. Upon start up, the TPMS light flashes for a minute then goes steady and stays on.
I know there is a reset switch in the glovebox but would that fix it? I went from 16" steel wheels w/ hubcaps to 17" oem SE wheels.
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The issue is: when I start the Prius, the TPMS light blinks for about a minute before remaining steady. I have tried to reset the TPMS via the button below the steering wheel (knee-or-so height), but have not been successful (tried with the ignition in "ON" status, tried with "ACC", and as last resort tried in "READY")
My question is the following: Since I do not know all the history of the vehicle, how can i tell if its a sensor, the button, or something in the TPMS or ECU that's at fault? When I picked it up, all of the tires were a little flat (about 25 PSI).
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I have had my 07 now for a few months. The other day during a trip, I noticed my TPMS light began to blink, and then stayed constantly on. I checked my pressures at the end of the day and they were all right where they should be, including the spare. When I start the car, the TPMS light will blink for some time, and then it will go steady and stay illuminated.
Took the car to a tire shop and they hooked the tpms scan tool up to the car and told me I had a bad sensor. I did some reading online today and it seems like a lot of people say the sensors that come from the factory for these cars only last for about 5 years until the internal battery dies.
For what it costs to get one sensor replaced, knowing that the car is 5 years old and the other 3 sensors are prone to fail, I see some people are making little PVC canisters and putting all 4 sensors in the canister and pressurizing it to make the light go away. But my sensors are broke, and if I bought new ones I do not have a tool to program them.
Is there anything that can be unplugged, or a wire that can be cut or grounded to make this stupid, pointless light go away or am I pretty much at the mercy of the tire shop/dealer to replace the sensor and make the light go away?
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I just had my oil changed today and while driving home the red airbag light came on in the instrument cluster and the passenger airbag light on the dash started flashing. When I connected the passenger seatbelt the flashing light went off. While in the dealer also tightened some screws in the center console. I have an under the seat subwoofer that is VERY snug...could that have damaged something when the seat was slid back?
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I have 15 months old 2011 prius II. This morning while driving, suddenly the orange warning triangle with exclamation sign in the center went on above the READY sign on the left side of the display. Car started to beep. On the right side, the hybrid system indicator menu disappeared, the the sign appeared saying KEY DETECTED IN THE CAR.
The car was running fine. It was going on for 2-3 min, then went back to normal. A few minutes later the same thing happened again. This cycle continued 5-6 times during my 30mi drive. I tried to restart the car at the traffic light, but that did not solve anything.
My second car key is with my relative out of town. Is this just the battery in the remote dying ( I still have the original)? Could it be something with the car? I am busy at work and would prefer not to go to the dealer now if not necessary, but will if I have to.
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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I have installed switchback led signal lights. The right side only turn signal lights will hyper flash until I have driven 10-15mins. and then they operate normally. The guys who installed the system went to a better resistor and nothing changed. My installer says he has never seen this issue before. The driver's side functions properly. both sides have always had resistors.
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I just took possession a few weeks ago,and I love the car. I've only had one passenger, once in the car, and yesterday, I noticed that the passenger seat belt light is continually flashing when I'm driving. If I'm in park, it's off, but when in gear, that little red light flashes non stop.
Is this normal when there isn't a passenger? I don't remember this happening before, and, I'm sure I would have noticed that annoying little beacon.
If it's wrong, how do I fix it? If it's supposed to be there ... how to I fix it?
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