Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Stereo Turns On But No Audio Came Out
Feb 18, 2012
I have a 2011 Sonata with the NAV package, and this morning when I started the car I found that I have no sound coming from my speakers. Stereo powers up just fine, all controls including nav and bluetooth seem to be functioning perfectly, and yet I am getting no audio.
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The volume control on my stereo stopped working today. The radio turns on, but the volume controls do not increase/decrease the volume. It is stuck at whatever volume it was at before this problem started. When I turn the volume knob, I see the volume level numbers increasing and decreasing in the upper right corner of the touchscreen, but obviously the volume stays put.
2013 Sonata Limited 2.0T
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Yesterday when getting into my vehicle after being out of it about 20 minutes and everything working fine, my stereo was on the fritz. A CD was playing but on my display it was giving me a message about an error with the bluelink and needing to hit the bluelink button. I did so which did nothing. I tried to turn off the stereo and it would not turn off. The volume controls and all other controls were inoperational. I could not eject the CD either.
So I drove to my destination and turned my car off and on again. This time my stereo was black. Nothing would work to turn on the stereo at all. I tried multiple times to see if the stereo worked and it did not last night or this morning.
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So the other day I was waiting on my friend outside her job, but the car was on off, I got bored and pushed the Push Start button twice without holding the brake so only the stereo will turn on. However when I turned on the car again to driver off the stereo shut off and wouldn't turn on. It's been three days now and I was hoping it was some sort of glitch that would fix itself out, but it hasn't. Its a 2011 Sonata without the Navigation, Just the simple bluetooth fm/am radio with CD.
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I have a '11 GLS sonata, 56000kms ... Over the last few weeks I've noticed a 'vibration' rubbing sound while I'm making a right turn at med speeds or higher. I thought I heard it on the left side but not sure. Only notice the sound while turning.
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On my 2013 GLS i went to adjust the column back to me as my girlfriend drove on saturday night (octoberfest ) and as i pulled it back out the car shut off. i pushed it back in a little and the car started fine and has until i tested the issue again this morning when i got to work. i moved it about half way out and the radio shutoff. moved it a little more and the whole car shut off. it will not start until i push it back in some.
I am thinking that a cannon plug or something is either too short or routed wrong or something to that effect as i have the ignition on the column instead of the push button.
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So...the trunk light will never turn off if the trunk is open? Just wondering, since a bottle of Shiner Bock broke in my trunk and i want to air it out. Yeah i don't feel like removing the bulb, i just wanted to know if there is a time limit or disable feature somehow.
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My wife couldnt get her 2011 SE to start this morning. It engine turns over strong but it wouldn't start. Brake lights worked. Brake pedal very hard. Tried several times but would not start. Finally I jumped battery just in case and it cranked. Don't know if this was coincidence or not. Car is two years old and only 30k. I checked for interior lights being left on or other things that might drain the battery.
Could a low Fob battery cause this? Brake switch? No codes thrown. Taking in to dealer but wanted to rule out a simple fix.
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My wife has a 2013 Santa Fe. When she turns off her vehicle, her radio stays on until you open the door. To be honest that is how it works in most cars I have been in.
However it seems like in the Sonata 2013 it just turns off all together. Is this normal? Is there a feature to make it stay on until the door is opened?
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Looking for pictorial descriptions / videos on how to replace the CV axles on 2011-14 Sonata 2.4? Mine starts developing clicking noise under tight turns about 10k miles ago but the boots are absolutely fine. I just hope to buy some time on it before I can confidently replace those axles myself as I only have limited cash.
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Whenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate?it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting?at which time it acts normally for the rest of the day. The braking system is fine.
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I have a 2011 Limited Edition Sonata that I had for 4 years now. My audio system completely died. Does not turn on, thus no sound. Buttons don't work either.
On top of that, the display screen (that shows what track/radio station is playing, and clock) is dead as well. I checked the audio fuse, and it looks fine (U shape).
Before both went completely dead, it seldom came on but would die on me again. Now gone for good.
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I just purchased a 2012 Hyundai Sonata GLS certified pre-owned. When I connect my phone the car, an iPhone 4S, the Bluetooth does not allow me to control the audio on the Hyundai Sonata.
Also when I connect my iPhone via a standard USB cable, it does not allow me to pause the music. Whenever I pause the music on my phone it stops for a second and then keeps playing. When I am connected via USB, I am able to control song advancement. I am just trying to find out if this is normal for this car?
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The light flashes then turns solid. I checked the pressure to find 32lbs in the tires. I pumped them back up to 36 front, 35 rear (per suggestions here to minimize steering wander).
The light remains on. Knowing the pressures were fine, I have driven it several days to see if the light goes out on its own. No dice.
While driving last week, the wife asked about this and we pressed the Blue Link connect button. The service rep who responded said she saw no pressure warning on her remote panel.
Over the weekend, I tried inflating the tires to 40psi, thinking that the higher pressure would reset the light and then I could lower the pressure to normal levels. That did not work, either.
So yesterday, I called the dealer and the service rep said the system warns of BOTH under pressure and over pressure. She suggested setting the tires to the "sweet spot," at 35psi. I did this, and the light remains on.
I guess I will need drive to the dealer and let them piddle with it. I like the system, or at least the idea. But I hope I don't have to drive to the dealer after every attempt to maintain the tires.
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We have a 2013 Sonata. For a while now we have been hearing a thump-thump-thump from the back of the car. The thumping starts as soon as the car moves and it appears to come from the driver side.
We get the thumping in our parking lot, on local roads, on the highway - everywhere. The frequency of the thumping speeds up and slows down in lock step with road speed. The thumping doesn't get appreciably louder when we go around turns or when we apply the brakes. We feel no vibration through the brake pedal, or through the steering wheel, or through the seats or any other part of the car.
Six months ago we left the car with the dealer after taking the service advisor for a ride. He heard the noise but when examining the car they could not locate the source of it. They said the wheel bearings looked good, the tires looked good, the brake rotors looked good.
After that we replaced the old tires with new ones and had them installed and had the wheels and tires balanced at a shop that is known for doing this well. (They take care of a lot of SCCA weekend racers.) After all of that the thumping was still there, same as before.
Now the thumping is getting worse. We are planning to take the car back to the dealer to have them go over it again and start replacing parts to see if we can locate the source of the noise that way.
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I recently purchased a USB stocked filled it with music and as I'm scrolling through my music and about less than 5seconds into the Song the audio just turns off.?
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I bought this audio deck: [URL] ..... Now I want to install into a camry 03 and I managed to install but I can't get the rear audio to work. Here is the audio deck back of it :
and here is the wire for the radio and the harness
Now my front 4 speakers work but not my rear. I bought the amplifier one because the plug fits my camry as the other non JBL one doesn't and I have no clue if I have JBL or not. Now according to the instruction for the harness [URL] .... the green and purple rca cable is for the rear 2 speakers so what do I do?
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So need rims and a stereo upgrade. I am getting my Prius on the 28th and want to do the stereo upgrade immediately. My stereo shop here in Tampa is saying that they don't want to do more than 1 amp because the draw could be too much and give me problems with the electrical system. SO I wonder how much power all the things in the car take up while running and then how big an amp (or two) can I put in there? How many Amps (not amplifiers) do I have left over safely for use in upgrading the stereo?
I have a Pioneer Avic stereo (not sure the model at the moment but it does DVDs, CDs, and NAV. Has 5v pre-outs which are nice. I also want to run a set of
Up Front:
DLS Ultimate Iridium 6.3i components up front
6.5" woofer, 3" midrange, 1.1" tweeter. 100w RMS per channel
I thought to put the woofer in the door, the 3" in the dash like rrolff's squaker install (I have the NONJBL audio too). and tweeter in the stock location.
Rear:
Possibly component set in the rear doors but haven't really decided yet.
I have a set of 5.25-inch components that can go back there from DLS as well Figured why not use them. but if there are better ones out there I am not opposed to it.
The amps I am considering are both JL One is the HD 900/5 which is 100x4 + 500x1 or the XD 700/5 which is 75x4 + 300x1
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I have a 2007 ES350, Navigation, climate control, touch screen all works, radio powers on and functions as if it was working. back about 6 months ago the sound audio began having a mind of its own and working randomly, very annoying to say the least. Well, now it quit all together, no sound for a couple months now.
I am knowledgeable in the area of car audio, electronics, engines etc... I think this car has a factory OEM amplifier, although I have not located it in the car yet. I know the amp is getting power because I can hear a turn on thump when I power the head unit on and off.
So I think there is a cable/connector between the head unit and the amp that was loose causing the erratic behavior, and now the bad connection = no connection as if someone yanked the RCA jacks on an aftermarket system.
FYI, I already pulled the head unit from the dash and looked for any loose connections, found none, put the thing back together and am getting really frustrated with no sound.
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I just bought an 2008 Prius and I cannot for the life of me get the AUX function to work on my stereo. I have my iPhone plugged into the jack inside the center counsel, hit the DISC/AUX key and nothing. The cable between the iphone and jack is good, because I tried it on other devices and it works great. When I have a disc inserted into the stereo the DISC/AUX button works when switching from AM/FM radio to Disc and the cd plays. But when I have the cd removed from the stereo and hitting the DISC/AUX switch it does nothing. What am I doing wrong??? Or is the stereo broken????
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I have a Prius package IV with the JBL stereo and have just purchase a NAV unit from another 2010 prius and was looking for some info on what I may run into with the install.
Are the wiring harnesses the same?
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