Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Starter Doing Quick Spin-free Then A Short Whine?
Jun 17, 2016
This is about a 2011 Sonata. I picked it up for my son.
The car has been running really well for the past few months, then out of the clear, when trying to start the car, the starter does a quick spin-free, then a short whine. The battery voltage is at 13.1 prior to attempting to start.
The car finally started under a jump from another car, but only after several turns of the key. And with each turn of the key, was the spin-free, then short whine, like described above. It's like the starter had a dead spot -or several dead spots- and I caught it just right, and it started.
I have the battery on an overnight charge. It sound like the starter to me. What do you think? And if it is the starter, how big a deal is it changing it out?
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I have a 2011 sonata SE w/ 30K miles, the starter failed on me.
The motor would spin but would not engage the gears b/c of the solenoid or the rod malfunctioned.
They towed my car to the dealer for free and it was replaced but I'm concerned because the towing guy told me he towed quite a few Hyundai's b/c of this problem.
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I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
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Yesterday while changing the bulbs in my door on my 2011 Sonata to led there was some sort of short and all the door lights, dome lights, clock and temprerure light, key fob stopped working. My tire pressure lights came on and every time I start my car the radio resets. I checked all fuses and all my tires have the right tire pressure.
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I just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
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I am back with the same issue as the last 2 batteries. Ever since the wife has had this car, the last 2 batteries would spin the starter, but it wouldn't run. Bought batteries and it fixed it.
But damn, now her battery is only 13 months old. Is it true that if the battery gets just week enough that the motor is starved for enough juice for it to run?
Last dealer couldn't figure out why she needed a battery when the one she replaced was good. I told them do it anyway, and it worked, last year.
She called the dealer today and their saying its the alternator is pulling it down. I say BS. Its not a dead battery, its a temperamental motor, I guess. I dont know what to do. This is getting old.
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My wifes 2011 Hyundai Sonata would not start yesterday at the clinic. I purchased a new battery went there today to replace the battery. Before I started the work I tried starting the car. When I turned the key to the on position the radio came on and the dashboard lit up like normal. As soon as I turned the key to start the car the battery went completely dead. The starter did not engage and the electrical went out.
I replaced the battery. When I turned the key to the on position nothing turned on. Not the radio or any of the dashboard lights. I tried starting the car and there was not response, exactly like a dead battery. I purchased a new battery and they tested it right in front of me before giving it to me so I feel like I can rule out the battery.
I double checked that he connections were tight. I tried jiggling the shifter, pushing the brake pedal, jigging the steering wheel around, jiggling the key in the ignition. The positive battery terminal connector has a fuse, it appears to be intact. I also checked the fuse panel in the engine compartment. All of the large fuses are intact (I only looked at the 3 or 4 of the large ones that were visible from the top). I didn't check the smaller fuses, I wasn't sure which ones to check.
A little background;For a couple days in a row my wife was noticing that the car was struggling to start (she didn't mention this to me right away). I noticed that when we were driving it the head lights had a very suttle flicker. When were idling at a stoplight it appeared as if the lights were dimming and getting brighter rapidly. I noticed it from the reflection of a license plate and dismissed it as maybe just the wind causing the license plate on the car ahead of us to wobble. It was suttle and not very pronounced. Yesterday my wife went to the clinic and when she was leaving the car would not start. Someone try with jumper cables but she was not able to get it started. Even after letting it sit for 5 minutes before trying to start it.
My buddy thinks it's the ignition switch itself, but that sounds quite a bit beyond my capacity. I suspected that since the lights were fluttering/dimming that it was an alternator problem. Even if the alternator is bad wouldn't the car still run on a fresh battery?
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Came home from a trip and the Santa Fe had been parked for 3 days. No starting issues prior, but went to move it and no go. When I turn the keys something "spins" but the starter does not engage. 99% sure it needs replaced. 02 GLS V6 AWD
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I have a 2000 Ford F150 lariat with the 5.4 liter engine. At least once or twice a day, its like the starter hits a bad spot and will spin but not engage the flywheel. It has a new starter, battery, and solenoid. What this might be?
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Had an odd situation earlier tonight. The starter cranked normally but the engine wouldn't actually start. I let it go for 10 seconds and hit the button again to make it stop in order to protect the battery. A few seconds later, I tried and it fired right up without a hitch. The MIL never came on so no codes most likely.
Car has 17k on it. 2013 2.0
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer and I cant get it to start. I removed the starter and turned the key and can see the starter popping out and spinning, but when I put it back into the flywheel all I get is clicking noise(like if the battery is dead) I had it on jumper cables so I don't think its the battery?
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Went to the mall the other day for a few hours, when I cam back out and when I went it start my car it would not start. Symptoms are weird, I can hear the starter begin to crank then it stops and the dash flickers on and off, interior and exterior lights flicker on and off, starter cranks on and off also. This keeps going until I push the start button again twice to turn the car off.
This keeps happening every time I try to start it. When I popped the hood I noticed the positive battery cover was open.. I closed it and when someone tried to start it for me the cover flew open. It was like 2 seconds after the starter cranked a master circuit breaker would trip, then reset over and over again.
Stranded on a Saturday, I had to join CAA online and request a tow to the dealership. The tow truck guy said I was the 4th push to start hyundai with exactly the same issues he had a call for that day. He went in the car vanished under the dash and got the car started. He would n't tell me what trick he did, but he said drive it to the dealer and leave it there as it was a one shot trick.
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My starter motor in my 2004 Golf 2.0 doesn't engage or spin when it is very cold. By very cold, I mean below 5F.
The battery has plenty of juice, and jumping the battery doesn't work. I turn the key to "start" and nothing happens. When key is in the on position, fans, wipers, etc all work fine. When the car warms up to 20F or so, everything is fine and the car starts.
Here's the funny thing. If I put a little space heater on the driver side floor to warm up the fuse and relay panel, it starts with no issue.
I don't know enough about the interlocks between load reduction, starter motor, ignition switch etc to make a good guess as to which relay (if any) may stick in extreme cold. It's a tough problem to diagnose, because I can only experiment when it gets REALLY cold, when it isn't very fun to experiment anyway. I don't think it's the piggy back harness, because the wipers, horn and fan all work.
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. My "piece of junk" (as my husband refers to it) 2002 Chevy Venture broke down on me last year. It felt and sounded like a tire blew. There were no warning signs. It was very sudden. I had it towed to where I was buying it and they told me the motor was blown because I had let it run out of oil. I knew this wasn't the case (letting it run out of oil) and so I brought it home. My husband discovered the oil pump was not working but before I could afford to put one on to see if this fixed it, it was repo-ed as I had lost my job for no transportation. For about a month, the car lot intended to take the vehicle to auction and then sue me for the rest.
I was finally able to work out an arrangement with them where they held the car until I got my student loan money and paid for it. When I got it back, I expected it to start and to be able to try the oil pump. However, now it will only start when you short out the starter, runs for a second and dies. During these brief seconds, we discovered that the oil pump is pumping oil. I have a theory that while they intended to sell the vehicle, they started to fix it. But why will it only start if the starter is shorted out and then not continue to run? Will a new starter solve this? And could the motor completely blow up in a matter of minutes from the oil pump going out?
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I just bought an FX4 and pick it up tomorrow. When you are in 2wd does the whole front end spin like the axles? Or does only the wheels spin when you are in 2wd? Reason I am asking it seems like with chevy the whole front end spins in 2wd.
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I have a 2011 Tiguan 125 TSI with 4 motion and recently have been getting quite a bit of front wheel spin especially on right turns. I can hear/feel the front wheel spin and also the TCS light is coming on. When the road is wet, it gets worse. Is this to be expected? The car is 2 years old and has only 24000kms on it so am a little disappointed with this. What may be wrong?
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I have a 2007 Jeep Compass. Driving on the freeway heard loud whine - like the starter engaging. It stopped then started again. The jeep then died. Had it towed to the shop. Starter was "melted" and was replaced. Two days later the same thing happened.
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What are the odds that the fly wheel is ok and I just need to replace the starter? I can hear it engage the flywheel, it's making the zzzzzzzzzzz noise after it disengages the flywheel, can these starters be oiled or anything to prevent that noise?
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So, I've noticed over the past few days my '11 GTI w/ DSG isn't turning over as quick but when it does I feel as though my gas is delayed. For instance, if I push the accelerator down I feel like It does nothing and then suddenly kicks in when the pedal is more than halfway pressed. Also noticed by the same token if I keep it floored I go way into the redline before it shifts. Almost pushing the 7k rpm line. I'm thinking it's either my starter is going bad for the turn over portion but then I feel like it's something to do with spark plugs for the delayed response.
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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I have a 2005 F350 w/6.0 turbo diesel. Had starter replaced last spring. Went to store recently, came out & truck starter would just wind and whine, no flywheel engagement. Mechanic replaced Napa starter under warranty and now the starter whines when just trying to connect the battery(s) without even turning the key. I did try several attempts at starting truck when stranded at the local store, with no results but starter whining. Could I have created a dead short some where, and where would be a good place to start?? How do you get a schematic of the starting system?
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