Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Signs That A/C Refrigerant Is Low?
Sep 3, 2015
if I start my car and leave it in park and turn the air on max, on the 1st or 2nd fan setting, I usually get no cold air, its just normal temperature. if I begin to drive for a bit the air turns cold, then if I stop and park, the air usually stays cool sometimes.
however, last week we had a heatwave here in SoCal and it was around 100 or so, and my car was outside for a while. I started it up and the air was not blowing cold for quite some time, I had to drive for a while to get it going.
I drive mostly on the highway and my A/C works fine but I noticed hiccups like these here and there and want to know if its something I should look into before it gets worse
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2016 Hyundai Sonata SE
6000 miles, 3 months old
2.4 GDI engine, auto trans
Variable-Displacement Compressor (no clutch, anyway, so that's what I'm assuming)
Is it OKAY to drive the car without refrigerant to circulate lubricating oil, or am I going to be looking at a new compressor in a few years?
A week ago, a grasshopper put a hole in the condenser. Yes, a friggen BUG, complete with bug guts and wings stuck around the tiny dent and pinhole. I'm arguing with Hyundai over the warranty coverage, they say "outside forces" and I'm saying "defective part or crappy engineering"...
The dealer's service writer said there would be no problem driving the car while we wait for parts, as long as we didn't turn the AC on. Okay, it's not summer anymore, but doesn't the compressor want to be on in DEFROST setting? Supposedly the system won't try and turn on the compressor if it's low on charge, but...being a variable displacement compressor with no clutch...
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I have a Sonata 2008 4 cyl. I started getting Airbag and passenger seat-belt signs blinking. Whenever a passengers seats the seat-belt light does not blink, but airbag warning on my dashboard is still turned on. I went to the dealer and they told me to replace the cushion for the passenger.
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I've got a friend who had a leak repaired on his '98 Chevy S-10 pickup but didn't have the system recharged. I have a vacuum pump and gauges and told him I would pull a vacuum and recharge it for him, but he doesn't know the refrigerant capacity and I don't have manuals on this model. What is the capacity? I'm figuring 1.5-2 lbs but would like to know exactly what's recommended by GM before starting on it so I can tell him how much refrigerant to buy.
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My AC is slowing down and needed diagnostics. Fan system is fine. So I hooked up my manifold guage set from HF and got 90 on both high and low static, and 35/175 under load. Temp was 83 Fahrenheit with 36% humidity.
My diagnosis - refrigerant low. (i.e. low/low)
So what kind of quantity can I assume I'm down? Do these german ac run on the high side? I'm going to pour in the PAG 46 myself through the yellow line, and that runs roughly 5 to 1 to the refrigerant. NO SEALANT. Just a 12 ounce can of 134a and 3 ounces of PAG 46.
Just to verify - it is PAG 46 for the 2004 Jetta 2.0 GLS?
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My 01 excursion is leaking refrigerant. Added UV dye, and still can't find leak. It takes about 5-7 days to lose charge.
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I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
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I'm replacing the compressor and accumulator on my Explorer. I'm having the shop evacuate the system, but they want to fill it with R134, so I'd rather use the cans if I can find out how many ounces it needs. I'm seeing conflicting information on the refrigerant capacity for the 94. Is there an authoritative source, like the factory service manual?
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2002 1500 4WD 126K miles. A/C not working, compressor does not engage when A/C is switched on. Is there an interlock if the refrigerant level is too low to keep the compressor from engaging? Original owner, A/C has never been recharged. Is recharging my best first step.
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2004 Santa Fe, 130k, auto, 2.4L engine, FWD
Bought this car during the winter and didn't need to use the air conditioning until recently, which as you could guess blows warm. Filled up with R134a and all was good for a few days, nice and cold.
Then after about 5 days it was blowing warm again. About half of the refrigerant had leaked out. Looked like the schrader valve/valve core was leaking on the low side so pulled it out and put in a new one. Filled up with new refrigerant, same thing... lasted a few days and now warm air again.
Is there a common spot for leaks on this model? I know I need to get a can of r134 with dye in it to try and find the leak, but I heard it can be the evap core which you can't see openly. Do the hoses normally leak? should I replace all the O-rings, etc?
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Started working on the salvage W12 today and I need to remove the bent radiator and AC condenser. The AC refrigerant system is already low per the VCDS system (no surprise, the condenser has an imprint of the VW logo in it ) so I'm going to disconnect the lines from the condenser. Since I'm not going to put a new condenser in until I'm done with the rest of the work, I need to know how to plug the two refrigerant lines in a way to not contaminate the rest of the system. Are some rubber plugs over the connectors going to do it or is there a better way?
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Since then I have added some refrigerant, changed the Magnetic Clutch Relay. Fan kicks on only for a few seconds and then goes off. Pressure shows that it might be a little high on refrigerant. Could this be so that it would not allow the fan to turn on and stay on. when I let some refrigerant out it seems that it will kick on and stay on. I have not let any more out because to me this really does not make sense to me, hence why I am asking some more questions.
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04 F350 TD AC stopped cooling.
Compressor engages
Static pressure is ZERO
Running pressures are close to ZERO
Apparently I have lost refrigerant, but I see no signs of leaking (oil) and vacuum is holding at 30.
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The AC on our '04 RX330 has started acting up. Refrigerant level is fine. When the system works it's ice cold. It'll run more often than not, but occasionally the AC compressor just won't kick on. I searched the forum and found issues in other toyotas and lexus models with the magnetic clutch relay but for the life of me I can't find where that is on the RX. I also saw reference to an AC "servo" in another thread. What controls the AC compressor and what to check?
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So, trucks A/C is not blowing cold, and i replaced the compressor a couple years ago ( 40k miles?) took the truck to a shop to have them use one of them sniffers to check for a refrigerant leak. Was told that it needs a new evaporator core. Charged the truck up with refrigerant and it blew cold for a while but is now blowing hot again and it's summer time here in FL
So, replacing evaporator core here? I tried to find some how-to videos on youtube, but to no avail. I'd like to do it myself if possible. I think the shop quoted 3-400 in labor atleast.
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I have noticed a refrigerant oil smell coming out of the A/C vents when I first start my truck with the a/c on.. smells like the PAG oil in the A/C system.. I got under the truck and stuck my finger in the condensate drain and it's oily, and has the same smell.. the A/C is still blowing cold, but the smell is getting worse..
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2005 prius only starts when negative terminal is disconnected/reconnected. I recently bought this car with the dead 12 volt battery. Jump started to drive home next morning put new battery it started but all kind of sign lit up VSC, (!), snowflake symbol on the road, big triangle with exclamation mark. I was able to drive the car for 1 hour with very poor gas Milage. Now each time I have to start I have to disconnect the terminal for 10-15 min. I have already replaced the MAF SENSOR, and 12 volt battery. During battery installation My 10mm key accidentally touched the positive terminal as well for a split sec. But warning lights were present before the replacement and the gentleman who sold me the said once battery is replaced lights will go away? When I replaced the MAF sensor they were gone for brief moment but came back on after 1/2 a block?
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2010 Prius IV, Purchased July '13 with 133k. Now 175k. Other than drivers rear hub & brake recall, never an issue...until now. It the past 3 weeks, it has "went through" 3.5 quarts of oil. NO SIGNS of a leak (no puddles on floor and the "padding" on the pan side of the access door is dry). Doesn't smoke at all. The oil dipstick isn't rusted out.
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My Phaeton (V8) is overheating when the outside temperature is around 0 C (+/-10 C).
It rises all the way to 130 C, the warning signs comes up, it stays there for about a minute and than the fans kick on and the T goes back to normal.
It has been doing that for the last three years intermittently in the spring and fall.
This season it is getting more persistent and it is occurring pretty much every time I use the car (usually not more that once per cycle, a cycle being from the time the engine is started to shut down).
The dealership can't seem to find the problem. The thermostat was replaced at the same time that the water pump and timing belt were replaced and it did not solved the problem.
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I started noticing a burning oil smell a few weeks ago after driving to and from work. Then I noticed drops of oil on the floor in the garage. I wanted to start a consumption test so I scheduled an appointment at my dealer and asked them to look at the leak.
The invoice says they replaced some screws and a bolt near the turbo and cleaned the area. That was Monday. Today there are a few fresh drops and the burning oil smell is back as I drove to work. I made another appointment for Friday. What this could be.?
I'm at 53k miles and glad it's still covered. Just hope they get to the bottom of it.
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So I've got a 2007 2.0T FSI waggie. To my knowledge, the cam follower hasn't been replaced, at least not since I bought it when it had 64,000km on it. The car now has 125,000km on it. The car shows no signs of the CF starting to fail, just thinking preventative maintenance.
At ECS, the CF is $50. My dealer wants $100 and also 'strongly' recommends replacing the high-pressure fuel pump at the same time. The price of the pump is $500. Is this a scare tactic? I mean, I understand if the CF is worn, there will likely be wear on the pump, but replacing a $500 part when it's not necessary doesn't sit right with me. Or... just leave it alone and see if the CF fails, and get a new engine from VW under warranty.
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