Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Rough Idling And Reduced Power
Dec 11, 2012
I have noticed with my 2011 Sonata that I am experiencing the reduced power and a bit of*rough*idling from the engine. I noticed an increase in performance after oil changes, then back to the same issues after about 1000 miles. I switched to a synthetic blend and started buying the best filter any of my local shops carry. I then ran some additives recommended and shifted to gas from Shell o However, I am still having the issue.
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I am having a problem with a 6.7. The truck has 9900 miles on it. It has a dpf delete, egr delete, Spartan tuner and a snow stage 3 kit. The truck lopes at idle but once throttle is applied it levels out but still runs a little rough. Its keeps saying its in reduce engine power no matter how many times I clear the code. If I clear the code it will come back in 2 seconds with out cranking the truck or anything. Rail pressure is telling me 31090 psi and not changing running or not. I have changed rail pressure sensor, and pressure control valve with no result. The green and violet 5 volt reference that feeds those sensors is only putting out 1.2 volts. Put a new pcm in it still the same and now has quit running totally. The codes are P0193, P0335,and P06A6.
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I have a 2011 Ford F250 6.7 Powerstroke. It has 107,000 miles on it.
The other day I was driving it down the highway and it got a Reduced Engine Power message on the dash. It lost power and I got off the highway to the service road. Then it died on me.
Had to get it pushed to a station then towed home. It wouldn't start. The starter cranks over for a few seconds but engine won't start. Checked all the fluid levels and batteries. My DEF fluid was only a half gallon low.
What I have noticed is that the DEF level indicator hasn't reminded me that it was low for over 4-5 months now. I had been putting in about 2-3 gallons every 3 months or so. But it hasn't reminded me lately and I just forgot. This is my first diesel.
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I have a 2011 6.7 F-350 Diesel. I bought the truck new and I've never had any problems with it until now. I have a SCT Chip & Tuner. It needed an update so I returned the truck to stock and a code came up on my dashboard that said "reduced engine power" which obviously I thought was Normal because of the modifications done to my truck.
I updated my tuner and returned the truck to a performance tune but this dashboard code will not go away. My truck isn't reading any codes and there's no other indication lights on. The truck has Normal RPM readings but 0 throttle response. No power at all...
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Last Saturday I had the oil changed at the dealer on my 2011 Santa Fe Limited V6 3.5. As I left the lot, I noticed knocking and reduced power. I went back in and they took it out for a drive and it was gone. The engine had been turned off and back on when before they went out. I went out with them again and it was gone.
Today I drove about 10 minutes, stopped and turned it off for about 10 minutes, and when I started it again and drove off, the knocking was back. It lasted about 5 minutes in stop and go driving. I might have been imagining it, but it didn't seem to completely recover until I turned off the engine and started it again (about 10 minutes in).
What can I do to narrow it down? I don't know what it is, but when I try to think what the symptoms are like, it's as though a cylinder is not firing. So far it has only happened twice and the first time right after an oil change. It has 50,000 miles on it if that's relevant.
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When coming to a stop in my 2007 Hyundai Sonata GLS with a 2.4 4 cyl engine all of a sudden you get something that acts like the car is jerking or surging or rough idling or something. Hard to tell exactly which but if I put it in neutral and rev the engine a little it smooths out. Only happens when coming to a stop. What caused it?
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS with 86k miles. Sometimes, like once every 2-3 days, when I start the car, nothing appears in the box that says "P, R, N, D". The transmission also acts very strange. I often don't notice the blank box when I start the car, but immediately notice it when I put it in reverse or drive. There is an awful "clunk" from the transmission, and the car drives like I'm driving it through 6 inches of mud. I stop, put it in park, restart the car, the problem is gone.
The dealer said if it is a problem with the shift lever, that is not covered under the drivetrain warranty. I really don't have the money for the dealer to do expensive diagnostics/repair.
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When I turn my car off there's quite a bit of noise coming from under the car. Basically the sound of the exhaust cooling off but I would say a little excessive. In fact one night I was dropping my son off and left the car running and went to get some stuff out and while it was idling you could hear it. Clink.. clink clink. Same sound when its turned off.
I backed the car up on some ramps yesterday after I had driven it a short distance to see if I can pint point where its coming from and It seems to be in two places. Both where the exhausts are bolted together at a flange. One where the Catalytic converter bolts to the pipe that leads back to the mufflers. And there the 2nd source where just after the Y pipe where it splits off into 2 mufflers.
Is this something that may subside after the car has gotten some miles on it? I'm still well under the first 1k miles.
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When I'm idling my car at a stop, I notice a slight vibrating through the car... The vibration could also be felt through the steering wheel.
Not a major issue. Tried pushing car into neutral to see if it made a difference... Nothing.
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2002 F250 7.3L suddenly idling and running very rough, and doesn't have any power. Truck has been running perfect, it's my daily driver, and just put a couple hundred miles on it yesterday with no problems. I had been having some transmission issues when I tow heavy so I bought a new transmission yesterday. This morning I pulled the truck into my garage to change the transmission. Again truck ran fine, no signs of any issues before the trans swap. I changed out the transmission, which included unhooking the trans wiring harness from all the various sensors, and unbolting the starter.
I didn't mess with anything in the engine bay except for unhooking the batteries. I had also repaired the overdrive button wires, as they had been pinched in the steering column and the button wasn't working. When I got everything hooked back up I cranked it up to get the trans fluid flowing through the transmission, it started right up and idled good. I had it running for a few minutes and it was beginning to make a little more noise than usual. When I started to back out of the garage it was getting pretty rough, almost like it was running out of diesel. I put it in neutral and gave it some throttle and noticed I was getting white smoke out of the exhaust and could smell diesel pretty strong.
I checked my injector resistance at the valve covers and got around 4 ohms +/- on all of the injectors. I rechecked all of the clips and harness that I had messed with. I took a look at the ICP sensor and it has oil in the connector which I know can cause a rough running condition in some cases. It looks like it has had oil on it for a while. I unhooked the batteries again for about 20 minutes to try and reset anything that may have messed up. I checked a bunch of connections under the hood to see if anything was unhooked or loose.
I also cleaned up the connector on the ICP sensor. I started the truck back up and it idled perfect so I pulled it back out of the garage and headed down the driveway. It almost immediately started running rough again and barely had the power to go up a small hill. I pulled back in and tried unplugging the ICP while it was running, which made a slight difference in the idle but still very rough. I plugged it back in and the idle progressively got worse until it was chugging really bad. I shut it off after that and haven't messed with it again.
What might have happened? Could it be a bad sensor or transmission position sensor in the new trans? Is it just coincidence that this happened with a transmission swap? I am going to get a new ICP, but if there is anything else I can try/check before I can pick up the ICP on Monday let me know.
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I bought my 2011 sonata gls last year and it has always had a bit of an issue when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. The best way to describe it would be if someone where dumping the clutch and you get that sudden, hard acceleration with a bit of rev flare and then back down the lower revs. It doesn't do it every time it shifts, but enough that it is very annoying. I've had it in the dealership twice for this issue but I get the same "We can replicate the issue" song and dance. They tell me there is no code, and no history of any code. I had the trans position sensor replaced under warranty late last year.
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I just looked back and it has been since July 7th that my girl has been sitting in my shop. Well this past weekend I finally got her back together and started. It took a while to build pressure but she finally came to life..
While I am thrilled that she is running again i have low power before the boost kicks in and is idling rough with a blueish- white smoke coming out of the exhaust. Once i kick her a little she will get up and go but I've never had the smoke before.
I'm thinking maybe a bad injector???
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My 2011 Sonata 2.4L GDI has already 76k miles. Spark plugs were replaced around 75K miles, Air filter was replaced. Fuel treatment was done several time since ownership, Intake CRC for GDI was used once about 2K miles ago. The car is doing good until recently. When I accelerate the car acceleration goes uneven. It is not like hesitating but you feel like the car is taking it in steps. Sometimes the first run in the morning, the car idle feels a little bit rough but that's only in the morning. It has been like that for a month now. What do you think it can be? No Check engine light, no pending codes and nothing major except that. I really suspect a bad upstream oxygen sensor (Air fuel ratio sensor). What do you think?
A look through the intake shows a very clean intake. No signs for any carbon deposit. A Hyundai dealer checked the car and told me there is nothing to worry about. Just told me to buy more Hyundai fuel treatment (AKA Chevron Techron) which was done and still I feel uneven acceleration.
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I only have 800 miles on it, it squeaks when on un even roads. also, does your trunk make a noise when opening? like opening a rust door hinge? when do i do? i called dealership, they freaking not responding.
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Car intermittently shifts very rough and jerky. Just took on a long vacation trip and every AM when it was cold it shifted hard them smoothed out once warmed up. Got home and now it is doing it all the time. Dealer said do the trans flush...I did it and it made no difference. Is this a common problem with this model? Mileage is 39,800...not sure I want to buy this car at lease end.
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I have encountered a problem with my car engine. I noticed the car was not putting out enough power. When I press on the gas pedal aka accelerator the car drives real slow or sluggish; it seems like there's something clogged. I recently replaced the alternator which was draining the car battery. Since then the car starts up without any problem. I assumed its the EGR valve. The original EGR valve was quite carboned up but the used one from the junk yard didn't do much justice to the problem.
Additionally, the car is rough idling which I believe was due to bad gasoline.
Catalytic converter was struck by curb and heat shield was damage. Everything seems to be intact!
2000 Pontiac Grand Prix SE 136km+
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Is this normal on automatic transmission cars? I've read around the web and some say its normal and some say, before parking, to engage the parking brake first, THEN shift into park. Then when leaving, shift the car into reverse, then release the parking brake.
I follow this process and noticed it doesn't work all the time or make much of a difference. Do I shift into neutral first, then reverse, when leaving, before releasing the parking brake?
I've drained and refilled the ATF 2x...
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My 2011 Sonata SE gets a rough idle when my AC is turned on, and sometimes it produces a whirring noise as I'm driving in low gears. It all goes completely away if I turn my AC off. I'm afraid my AC might go out at an inopportune time. What could it be?
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I have a 6.0L Powerstroke with about 74k miles. I've owned it about a year. this weekend while driving on the highway at about 55mph i slowed to make a turn. As it came to idle i noticed it was idling real rough. As I accelerated it barely got across the highway. I went to where i was going and let it idle but gave it gas and raised the rpm's to about 1k.
I was concerned it was going to die. As I left it seemed to be better but as i drove it would get real rough and then go away. I accelerated a couple of times engaging the boost and it seemed to be better. I made it home and parked it, but i let it idle before i turned it off.
Now it will not start. it just cranks. everything is pretty much stock. i replaced the fuel filters back in december and also did the blue spring upgrade. I have a OBDII but i didn't have it with me so i wasn't monitoring at the this time. What should be my next step?
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So, I pretty unimpressed with the air in my 2011 SC 250. I keep the climate at about 69, and seems like is work about half as good as my 2010 F150 with climate did. When idling it blows almost warm, only cools when the RPMs are up there. My F150 seemed to be the same no matter what.
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A few weeks ago, the air conditioner in my 06 worked great. I parked the car and went into a store for about an hour. When I turned the car back on, now the blower seems to blow at only about half of what it has since new. The compressor appears to be working properly and the air still gets (almost) ice cold, but the fan speed is significantly lower. Since it's now 100 F+ outside, it takes nearly an hour to really cool the cabin.
It's been about 18 months since my last cabin air filter change, so I'll be changing it this weekend, but I just don't see that causing a sudden and drastic effect on the fan speed. If the fan stopped working altogether, I could see it being a fuse or the fan motor itself, but I'm at a total loss.
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