I just installed rear sway bar & links, this made a world of difference in the way the car handles as soon as I made the first turn I could feel the difference in the car it definitely corners flatter, the install only took about an hour did it in the driveway on ramps, I installed the kia sway bar 555102T000 the bar is 18.3 mm while the stock one is only 15mm I included some pics...
View 8 RepliesI am replacing the rear stabilizer bar and also decided to go with new links being i am upgrading. My concern is the torque value in the hyundai service manual. It shows 72.3 ~ 86.8 lb-ft for the part of the link that mounts to the control arm? below is the link so you can see the part. This just sounds way too high to me... I know this is what hyundai says and also on the Moog instructions it states 78 ft-lbs!
Federal-Mogul eCatalog Resource Center
Tightening torque : 98.1 ~ 117.7 N.m (10.0 ~ 12.0 kgf.m, 72.3 ~ 86.8 lb-ft)
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
View 3 RepliesSo as the title states, rear sway install, no issues (so I thought ) go to test drive the car afterward, and the headlights go through the normal sweep, but, they don't come up and level out, instead, they are pointing 10ft in front of the car.
The test drive was otherwise flawless, the R responds well to swaybars, my Mk6 TDi did as well, I just have the rear H&R bar on the softer/street setting for now, but it makes a notable difference just on its own in the soft setting, I'm pleased.
Back to the issue now at hand, I researched and so far came up with there is a sensor on the drivers side LCA on the rear of the arm, and one on the rear subframe that has a push rod type arm (looks like a servo) attached to it and a bracket on the subframe, Is this correct? The sensor in the rear is intact, plugged in, and I traced the wire back to the wheel well and there is no evidence of a ground, pulled or severed wire. I have no scanning equipment and am leery of going to the dealer and letting them plug into the ECM for anything now that I am tuned, not really for warranty, more for I don't want to risk anything being corrupted or altered.
The Honda dealership told me my 2005 CRV has loose sway bar links. How are these fixed? They quoted a price of $290 for the front links and $374 for the rear links. Does this sound reasonable.
View 14 RepliesI want to change the front sway bar links on a 2005 Camry that has been driven in central New York (ice, salt, corrosion) for 10 years. There is definite wiggle and noise. I recently replaced the ball joints. That was difficult. How difficult is it to remove the sway bar links? Looks like a 5MM or so allen wrench is supposed to hold the ball joint type link to allow 18MM nut to be removed. A 5MM allen wrench is about 4 inches long and skinny. An 18MM wrench is about 12 inches long and beefy. I am skeptical about breaking the nut loose.
Will I need to heat the nut? If yes, how? With a simple propane torch? If yes, how does that work? Apply heat and wait for a sound that indicates the rust has broken? Apply heat for a time, try to hold with the allen wrench and try to undo the nut? Keep trying that again and again until it works? This would be after multiple rust busting spraying to make this easier. I used a 4 inch grinder to grind the nuts off the ball joints to remove them (I know how that sounds, but that is what I did). Thoughts about that for the sway bar links? I am a bolt turner who can stand some aggravation.
Both of my front sway bar links have a bad joint and are making a bad noise.. I purchased the replacements and tried to loosen the nuts with no success. I put some oil to loosen them and will let them set over night. Next attempt will include a breaker bar.
View 4 RepliesMy mechanic says I need to replace both front sway bar links on my 2002 Jetta....I am, of course, hesitant to do it at this price. How critical is it to replace? Can I get junk yard sway bars to make it cheaper? And can I do it myself (have no experience fixing anything....
View 11 RepliesI've been having the loud clunk under the drivers side floor, that many others have as well. Did many hours of research and replaced the sway bar end links. Napa only had the left side in stock so I did it first last weekend and did the right side this weekend. One thing I noticed when doing the right side was the hole in the frame was all wallowed out. Drilled out the bushing in the upper end link and used a bigger bolt to fill the gap up. went for a drive and the clunk was way worse than it ever was still on the left side. So I took off the left one and went for a drive. Sure enough no clunk, the left one was wallowed out as well. So I did the same thing on that side and the evil clunk is finally gone. Just thought I would throw that out that if have a clunk after replacing the end links, Check the upper holes.
View 14 RepliesI plan on replacing as I have a clunk happening. Thought I'd try here first.
Is there a brand that's better? 1Aauto has OEM. Is there a brand that's better or makes a difference?
Or is a front sway bar end link a front sway bar end link?
What is the correct length of the front sway bar end links. I need that info to order replacements for my 04 X EB 6.0 4x4. I just don't want to wait another day.
View 3 RepliesI'm new to the whole Ranger truck thing since buying a 1993 Ranger 4x4 for my 14 y/o son. It has a 4 inch suspension lift and a 3 inch body lift running 33x10.5x15 tires. The front sway bar is not hooked up. I know that i will need drop brackets for the sway bar but my question is about the end links needed for this truck. There are 2 tabs with provisions for a horizontal bolt on each side of the twin I-beam where the end link would attach and the sway bar has a single horizontal hole on each end. Searching for replacement links at various auto parts websites only seems to yield the standard end links that consist of a straight bolt with a nut on each end and the rubber insulators. That clearly is not the correct end link for my application. Not sure if the front suspension is the factory installed unit or if it was swapped some time in the part.
View 4 RepliesOne is coming apart, so I'm gonna replace the pair. My Chilton book says to jack the front end up. The part instruction sheet makes no mention of doing that.
Raising the front would allow the control arms to hang. That would seem to me to make it harder to deal with the links.
So putting the new extended links on my truck, not sure if they are supposed to be seated flush on both the frame and sway bar itself before tightening them down. This is how they are sitting now --
You can see a little gap between the rubber fitting where the bushing sits and the frame mount. Just wanted to make sure before I torque it down. Its the same on the other side as well. They are sitting flush on the sway bar.
I have a 2002 F350 4x4 CC 7.3 i am wanting to change the sway bar bushings front and rear to poly and I want greasable bushings to avoid the squeaking that you get with these bushings alot of the time. I would like to change the end links to poly too i realize these wont be greaseable. What was the outcome and where did you buy the bushings. What is the size of the front and rear sway bars and the length of the end links??
View 14 RepliesI'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
View 1 RepliesMy 04 6.0 Limited and both front and rear sway bars. The front links keep wearing out after 3-4000 miles. But, I saw someone in here put F350 Sway Bars in their Excursion? REALLY?? Is this right or is this snake oil? Is their another way to fix the front links so they don't wear out so quickly??
View 4 RepliesSo I ordered the fog light kit from Shark Racing and received it today. I took of the bumper and installed the lights. I also connected the hot wire to the battery and the ground. However, there's another wire that's supposed to be routed through the firewall and connect to the provided switch. Is there any way to bypass this? I just want the fog lights to come on when the lights are on. Actually, I don't even care if the lights are on, the fog lights can be on all the time. I just don't feel comfortable routing a wire through the firewall and also taking the steering wheel off to put the new switch on.
View 36 RepliesI need to figure out a knocking sound that I have coming from my rear struts. I installed new springs on my 2011LE 4cyl yesterday and now when I hit some bumps I get a knocking sound. I didn't cut down my factory bumpers so I think that might be the reason but I first wanted to get your option. The spring drop it's 1.5 on some Megen springs.
View 6 RepliesInstalling the Hellwig 1 1/4 inch Front Sway Bar on their 11 and up F250 or F350 SRW Pickup?
My 2012 F350 Super Cab LWB XLT 6.7L seems to have quite a bit of sway in the front end. This is especially true moving slowly such as turning into service stations or other off angle turns. The truck only has the FORD OEM puny Rear Anti Sway Bar but the front seems to accentuate sway. The Truck has Rancho 9000XL Shocks, Timbren Enhanced Suspension System as well as Torklift Quick Release Stable Loads in the rear.
The Truck I have is not overloaded but it does carry an Eagle Cap 950 Camper pretty much full time. True the Campers now days are tall so some sway is expected. I just want to reduce the apparent front end sway and wonder if others have used the Hellwig Sway Bar in the front.