Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Rattling / Thumping Coming From Under Driver Side Floorboard When Car Started
Jun 6, 2014
A couple of weeks ago I started hearing this rattling/thumping coming from under the driver's side floorboard when the car is started. Almost sounds like a loose exhaust pipe. You can hear just little rattling under idle but it goes away (or you can't hear it) while driving.
Both shops (Pep Boys and dealer) told me it's quite expensive to replace. I just started looking around and I do see aftermarket cats for a few hundred. How hard can this replacement be for the average driveway mechanic?
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So I brought my car in to an audio video place to have hush mat in the front doors to prevent a rattle noise from my bass. Turns out the rattle is coming from the window switches.
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I feel a new thumping on my left foot as it rests on the floor of on the driver's side. It seems to happen mostly when I'm turning the steering wheel, particularly right, and is most prevalent when the car is cold and going in reverse, though it will thump when turning the to the right and when it's warmer--just to a lesser extent. I have also felt the thump in the gas and brake pedal. It seems to happen less/not at all when I'm going more than 40 mph. The car has 81k miles on it. 2006 Volvo XC70...
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Whenever my car go over a bump or uneven road, it causes a thumping noise in the rear driver. I have ultra racing rear sway.
I have re-lubricated the bushing, and changed the oem end links to moog.
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Recently when I first start my car in the morning, there is a rattling noise, which sounds like it's coming from the driver's side of the engine bay, or possibly just under the drivers side door. It only lasts for a couple of minutes. It will increase I accelerate, and then decrease as soon as I lift off the gas. After a couple minutes, the rattling goes away, and everything is right in the world. Today I drove it around the block and parked while it was still rattling away. When I put it in park the rattling went away. I put it back in drive and it came back. Then as usual it finally went away whether in drive or park. I'm completely stumped on this one. It's an '08 2.4l GLS and has 138,000 miles.
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At first, I only noticed the driver's side door rattling when I listening to a song heavy in base. Now, I notice it rattling when I drive on a rough road. I can stop the rattling by pushing my left knee against the door while I'm driving, but I shouldn't have to do this....
I took my car to the dealership a week before my 1yr was up, and they told me the rattle happened in EVERY Hyundai vehicle. The rep told me, "I just talked to my boss and he has that Genesis over there. It's a 35k car and the driver's door rattles."
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I am original owner of a 2000 CRV, it's in really good shape and has been maintained by me on about 99% of all repairs it has 140k total. I have this thumping noise coming through the floorboard by my feet, under moderate acceleration and it goes away at just about any speed when you quit accelerating. Sounded like a bad halfshaft, I had already replaced one so I did the other side, got worse. So I replaced the one that had been in for just 2 years--no better. Asked the auto parts store for a recommendation and went to that shop, they balanced the tires, checked rotors and concluded I was buying junky rebuild half shafts. I had them replace the one they thought was bad with another rebuild, just as bad or worse...
I took home and put in both sides with new halfshafts, I also noticed some play in jackshaft bearing and replaced that as well....no better. Shop claims that a website they subscribe to says that 50% of aftermarket halfshafts for CRV are no good. But honestly we are 5 for 5 bad, last two were new from NAPA. Pulled things apart and checked wheel bearings left side was sticky so had machine shop press one into the knuckle, right side was done about 14 months ago. Also disconnected drive line and drove it as a 2 wheel drive vehicle....no better. Would a broken tire belt only make noise on acceleration or after a corner when you accelerate? Is this a possible indication of my transaxle going out? ---
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When driving I hear, not feel, a slight thumping noise that if I had to guess would say is coming from the passenger side front. When I let off the gas the noise becmes more prominent and you can feel the thumping. Also when I apply the brakes heavily the sound/feel goes back to the same as if I was driving. I'm thinking CV joint/axles or spindle bearings, but I cant understand why the condition is at it's worst when I'm coasting. Has this "noise while coasting" problem.
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Take a look at the video I recorded with my phone and you can hear a thumping or clunking noise coming from the rear driver side tire. The phone was held upside down sorry!. I'm thinking it's either the brake pads or wheel bearing?
Please try to ignore the wind noises. = Just want some idea so when I take it to a mechanic it would be easier to identify the problem. [URL] ....
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My 2014 Azera has a rattling on the driver's side. I'm pretty sure that when I open the door a half inch or so while driving the noise stops. It doesn't happen all the time and seem to vary in intensity. I'm having a hard time locating the source.
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I have a 2012 Sonata GLS with 3300 miles on it. I have noticed that now that the temperature has dropped to below 60 degrees I have annoying dash rattle. It seems to be based on the rpm of the motor (1200-1500 rpm). So every time I take off from a stop sign or stop light I have this buzzing rattling coming from the center of the dash. It sounds like it is in the upper part behind the radio. The wife drove last night and I put my ear on the passenger side vent by the radio and I could hear the rattle. I am just trying to isolate the problem so when I go to the dealership I can give them some decent information. I thought the problem was the cowling on the bottom of the windshield. In the center of the window it had warped up. They replaced the cowling earlier this week and the problem is still there.
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Whenever I cut the wheel to the left, there is a fairly loud knocking/grinding noise that I can feel through the floorboard.
Brakes have already been replaced, ball joints and tie rods inspected - no problems. Front end was greased (exception to the zirc fitting on the very top of the steering linkage). There is no modifications to the suspension (no lift) and the tires are the standard size (no rubbing in the wheel well). I do not know how long it has been since the shocks/struts were replaced but after inspection they seem to be in OK shape.
I read on this site that some owners were noticing a knocking under their floorboards too because of worn "body mounts". However, the body mounts are directly under the pedals. I don't feel any grinding or knocking under the pedals. It feels like its directly under the floorboard in front of the seat.
Could the body mounts be the issue when turning the wheel or is this something more sinister?
If its the body mount, it would be great if someone could post pics of the procedure. I have some pics that were posted from before but where to look on the underside of the truck to find the bolt/nut etc and where I put the floor jack and how high to raise the body...
2000 Excursion XLT
7.3L Diesel
149,000 miles
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I purchased a brand new 2014 SFS 2.4L Luxury just a week ago. I have noticed rattling/ticking noise coming from the driver side door. If I press againt the door with my elbow, the noise stops.
And here is the weird thing, I can hear the noise in the morning when the car is cooled overnight (parked in underground garage). But it does not happen when the car has been parked under the sun for a long period of time (in 25C/77F). So basically, I hear it on my way to work and it disappears on my way home.
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I'm new to the forum and Excursion ownership but was hoping someone could save me some time and aggravation chasing a rattle in my 2004 2wd 6.0 PS. It seems to be coming from the front driver's side since I can feel it through the steering wheel. As of now, it's nothing major since it doesn't seem to affect tracking but I'm afraid it's getting worse.
I'm thinking it's a worn bushing but as I'm less familiar with the vehicle as y'all are, maybe you can point out the weak points that may be causing my issue. I plan on jacking up the front end tomorrow and inspecting for play. I'll let you know what (if anything) I find. Are there any known issues I should be aware of?
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A month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
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I drive a 2000 Saturn LS1. My current problem is that every time I run the A/C for an extended period of time water soaks my driver's side front floorboard, with a little bit (but not much) making the passenger side floorboard damp. A friend who is a pretty decent mechanic told me my heater core was busted and causing the water leak, so we bypassed the heater core. The next time I ran the A/C for over two hours, the water came back. I'm 90% sure the actual cause of the water leak is my A/C drain being clogged. What can I do to fix it? Also, why does this happen only on long trips?
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2003 Hyundai Accent 4 door. Well its been raining here in Portland Oregon non stop and this morning I went to get in my car and smelled a mildew odor so I took out the drivers floor mat and the carpet was soak. Then I laid back the carpet and that grey spongy covering thats under the pedals was soaked to the bone like a sponge.
I did a test with a water by putting the hose on top of the roof of the accent and turning it on full bore and nothing leaked in the car. I sat in their for a good 5 minutes with the hose blaring down the windshield and door sides. I even took a jack and lifted the car up too see if there was any cracks or a rusty hole underneath but nothing. So Im completely stumped on this I do have A/C and the drain hose is clear since I have been using my defrosters and the A/C pump kicks on.
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My driver side floorboard is leaking something. I am not sure what this could be. There is a huge stain that looks like a burn almost, and around the hole is a brown stain that keeps getting bigger. I lift up my floor mat and it is soaked. Could this be my air conditioner leaking or could it be something more serious? 2002 Mitsubishi Galant ES....
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So, I have heard a little bit about the oil pump bolt issue. However, I am still confused. Was this issue fixed for the 2008 model and what are the symptoms? I changed out my valve cover last night due to a PCV valve failure. The car is running great except there is a slight rattling sound coming from the drivers side of the engine at idle. I know I left nothing around the car that could have gotten in the motor when the valve cover was off. This issue was not happening before changing the valve cover. What could be causing this noise, or is it typical for this motor?
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2010 Matrix XR, car drives great except while driving off of parking lot going slow over bumps I hear a bit of rattling noise coming what seems like the driver side dash area... it almost feels like its coming perhaps from the steering wheel but the steering wheel feels very tight with no play at all.. Other than that it's all good can not hear anything wrong driving on a smooth road or a highway...
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I have a 2012 Sonata - My Drivers side Headlight (LO) went out (HI still works). I replaced it w/ not 1, but 2 bulbs (Sylvania XtraVision H7 from auto parts store), and in each instance - the LO does not work, and the HI does. I have read that it could be the B + 2 fuse. IF the fuse is OK, and the wiring shows no wear or rust...
Side note --- The Passenger side headlight - BOTH LO and HI - works OK.
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