Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: RPMs Suddenly Drop Off While Driving
Oct 16, 2015
2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
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1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
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Yesterday I was driving my R spiritedly (the usual...). I accelerated up close to redline and was just about to shift up when something happened in front of me (I forget what, lane change, something like that) so I let the gas pedal snap back up. I didn't touch the brake pedal at all.
What surprised me was the tach fell off almost like the car was dead. My expectation is that momentum and the car being in gear would cause the RPMs to decay slowly, just as my speed decayed.
Do you think the DSG plays a role here? Did it engage the clutch because of the 'panic' lift of the throttle? It didn't put me in an unsafe condition or anything, it just surprised me as I'd not seen it do that before.
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I have a 2003 dodge grand caravan with about 111,000 miles on it. Overall it has been a reliable car. In the past month we had to replace the ECM because the computer died on the car. Now, very intermittently, while driving at about 60 mph the car will suddenly drop to 40 mph then shoot right back to where it was at 60. This only happens for about a second and then its fine.
Its quite startling but it has only happened to us 3 times in the past two weeks, so its very hard to replicate. There are no engine codes and it seems like the tachometer does not change during this sudden drop, although to be honest I wasn't paying that close attention to it when it happened.
Could it be related to the recent ECM replacement? The dealer "reprogrammed" the computer so I'm assuming all parts electrically have been checked.
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Heading for a long weekend trip, went to pass a car on the highway and rpms went up and the car wouldn't go above 70, the car just stuttered. I pulled over and shut it off, and then it was fine. It was good the rest of the trip. On the way to the store today, it did the same thing around 35 mph today, restarted and it was fine again. t only has 9K on it.
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I have a 2003 GMC Envoy I6 4.2L. When driving above 50 after vehicle has warmed up it will drop rpm's by 300-500 and they go back up. This happens for several minutes at a time. It did it for over 20 minutes last night while driving home. I thoroughly cleaned the throttle body this morning (removed to clean) because in my researching for the solution it seemed that was the answer. Also left battery disconnected the entire time to allow computer to reset itself for clean TB. Took it for test drive and after about 10 minutes of driving it started doing the same thing. Took it to autozone to see if maybe they could pull a code even though there is no SEL on at the moment, but nothing came up. I am dreading if it's in drivetrain, i have only had the vehicle for about a week and a half. Bought it used from a private seller and it drove home fine the day i bought it and a couple days after, but now it's gotten worse than when it first started.
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2004 BMW 325i automatic - 127,000 well maintained miles - never abused - at 35-40 mph in high gear the rpms will periodically drop 200 and there is a noise like driving over small rumble strips after which the rpms instantly return - the speed does not vary. the dealer installed a warn drive shaft bearing but the problem continues - it is a bit less noticeable in sport mode - what can it be? computer - transmission - ????
The intention is to keep it for many years so if it is a transmission problem would rebuilding the current one or putting in a new one be the more advisable solution?
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So over the last few months I have been having more and more idling and power loss issues with my 2006 V6. When idling she intermittently will try to stall and the rpms will drop below 500 and then spike back up. A large percentage of the time I hear a loud whining sound while driving down the road and I notice that turning off the air conditioner will remove the sound at times.
***what I have done so far**
Idler Pulley
Belt tensioner
sepentine belt
cleaned MAF
Cleaned Throttle body
Throttle Position Sensor
Had car reprogrammed
So I pulled the belt off and checked all the pulleys and did notice some grittiness in the AC pulley (inner) and was wondering if this might be the issue. Attached is a video I uploaded, Video .....
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After I fill my 6 cyl 2004 Hyundai Sonata (280,000 km), the engines starts, then stalls. I can only get it to work by keeping the accelerator pushed to ensure sufficient rpm's. If I remove my foot from the accelerator, the rpm's drop to zero.With the engine revving, I put the car in drive and 'lurch' away from the pump. After that, everything is fine. It starts up properly … until the next fill. My mechanic is mystified and I am frustrated.
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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About a week ago I noticed my RPMs suddenly dropped while I was driving. a couple days later after driving the highway for about 45 mins, averaging probably 80-90mph, I got into town and I stopped for a car to park. Then it just stalled, I didn't notice a kick back, it's like the car just shut itself off. It took probably 10 attempts to start again. About a mile down the road it did the same thing pulling up to a stop light. I sat through 2 light cycles before it started again.
Got to my destination was there for maybe an hour, when I left the car started fine. Drove for about another hour on back roads when the Rpms started dropping again and I would need to dump the clutch to get them to go back up. Then my screen started beeping telling me to STOP with and oil pressure alert. I ended up driving the car home dumping the clutch whenever the rpms would drop. Once I got home I had my boyfriend take it out and nothing... Of course... A couple days have gone by and it hasnt been as bad but it still drops every now and then, and today after driving home maybe 5 miles it stalled again...
I've plugged it in and my speed sensor is throwing codes, but I don't think that's the entire problem. Whenever my car acts up the EPC light comes on but no check engine light so far. 2005 Jetta GLI 1.8t.....
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I've got a noise in the front end of my GLS (52K miles). It's kind of hard to make it happen, but I hear it 2-3 times a day. It doesn't usually happen hitting a bump, but is usually heard when the weight of the vehicle shifts, when there's a sudden incline or drop, like when pulling into a driveway or gas station.
I had a car with a motor mount issue once, which sounded similar. However, I actually had my motor swapped 5K ago, and my noise existed before that.
I have to get to the dealer (I believe 60K is the end of coverage for this kind of thing). I would like to have a little more info or suggestion of what to check, otherwise it will be "we don't hear anything."
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My 06 sonata drop into neutral while driving. Any clues as to why this would happen?
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Had the 2011 Sonata 2.0T for two months. Was running perfectly. The today engine light stayed on. Disconnected battery then started again. Still on. Guy said check gas cap. Added gas AND disconnected battery again. Light stayed off on way home. Then started it again and it is on again. No overheating. Oil is ok. etc. everything else works just fine.
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2 days ago, and again twice today, I have had an issue when I need to change lanes and speed up, but when I hit the gas pedal (not flooring it, but significant pressure) I have had the car jerk 3 times while the rpm needle goes up to 6. Then the rpm drops to 2, the acceleration finally kicks in, and a huge puff of grey smoke makes the cars behind me completely disappear.
I've read threads about the smoke with the acceleration, but no one mentioned the jerking and not wanting to actually accelerate at first.
There are 33,000 miles on my car.
I called the dealership and they said it only sounds like it's an issue that something in the engine needs to be cleaned out, and they want to charge me $200 if that's the case.
Should something need to be cleaned out at only 33,000 miles? (mind you I also just had the dealership tell me I didn't need my 30,000 mile tune up yet after doing an inspection).
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My son is primary driver of our 2011 Limited with push-button start. He phoned me a few minutes ago to tell me he was driving--everything normal-- when there was suddenly a complete loss of power, mechanical and electrical (engine died, dash lights out, nav screen dark, etc.). There was no advance warning of any kind.
The power loss was total but brief, two or three seconds, and then reactivated on its own. My son said he pulled off the road into a parking area, stopped the engine, waited a few seconds and then restarted and is on his way home with everything working normally so far.
First issue with the Sonata--61k miles ....
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My 2011 Dodge Caliber has been acting up and I am getting NO Where with the dealership. They keep telling me they can not figure out the problem, unless it does the same thing while it is there. But I feel unsafe driving my car, due to the fact it can happen at any given time. What happens is while driving it, all of a sudden you can not accelerate, you can have the pedal to the floor and nothing maybe 5 miles is all I get. This has happened twice now, and both time I took in it. The second time it happened all I did was start the car up. NOw how would you feel if you were driving and all of a sudden this happened to you. What if I'm driving and it happens when I go make a turn, and bam I get hit. Again this sucks and piss's me off. Oh yeah I only have 10,289 miles on it.
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2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
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So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
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