Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: RPMs Rev Up High (in Neutral) Then After 2 - 3 Sec Trans Shifts
Nov 1, 2013
My transmission is having issues switching from 1st to 2nd gear and same issue from 5th to 6th. What happens, (when attempting to switch from 1st to 2nd) RPMs rev up high (as though it is in Neutral) then after 2-3 sec it shifts, car jumps crazy and in like 1 sec it shifts down (to 1st - RPMs jump) then shifts to 2nd gear and from there it is fine. 3rd to 4th, to 5th is great, but 5th to 6th same issue, not as extreme, but similar. If i let go of gas when it should shift to 2nd gear, and wait like 2 sec, it will be in 2nd gear without jerking - Normal.
Sometimes in Park there is this noise as though something metal is hitting another metal part, and I can feel it in car - but it goes away and only happens from time to time. Also Neutral on rare occasion works as Reverse - super rare. I did Stall test (per Hyundai procedure Bulletin 13-AT-007) - no issues. Dealer ran diagnostic - no Codes in transmission. Flushed fluid - didn't work. I drained fluid again, put new fluid in and checked ATF level per 13-AT-006 - no difference. Tested Solenoids - no problem there. What could be an issue with my transmission?? 2012 Sonata GLS 2.4L with 7k miles.
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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On my 2.5 SE auto, it feels like the car shifts into neutral at stop lights. Is this the case? If so, is this cause for concern. I know on my old Volvo S60, they removed this feature because it was causing premature wear with all of the extra shifting into and out of neutral.
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I am new to my car. It is an '95 turbo wagon with a 5 speed conversion and a ARP orange ECU. The issue is the car is holding shift rpm for 4-5 seconds after I take my foot off the gas. Since I am taking the load off the motor when I clutch in, it actually climbs higher before it drops off. Needless to say it is not really drivable in traffic that way! The idle rpm is ok and the car pulls really well when accelerating. I have checked for vacuum leaks and I am heading for the Idle Air Control valve. I don't think the engine has any other mods and it is pretty high milage (188k).
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I bought a stick shift GLS in April and overall I'm happy with it. However I think that something is not right with the way it shifts.
Basically when I shift from 1-2-3 it is almost impossible to do it smoothly unless I wait until the revs get to 3K RPM between shifts. This is fine for merging on the highway but not driving around town. Going from 1st to 2nd is really jerky.
Also the engine stalls easily. There is practically no time to give it a little more throttle (or clutch) when you begin to hear the engine revs go down.
At first I thought it was just that I needed to get used to it or the clutch was somehow not broken in yet but now I have 2500miles of driving in traffic and it is not any better.Also I have driven manuals for the past 24 years so, despite what it sounds like, I have a lot of experience driving stick. Additionally my wife drove it for a few days and she had the same experience.
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Car intermittently shifts very rough and jerky. Just took on a long vacation trip and every AM when it was cold it shifted hard them smoothed out once warmed up. Got home and now it is doing it all the time. Dealer said do the trans flush...I did it and it made no difference. Is this a common problem with this model? Mileage is 39,800...not sure I want to buy this car at lease end.
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Noticed cup holders above the transmission a little warm. I have a 2011 hyundai sonata se; when I drove a regular sonata I didn't notice the cup holder getting as warm as my car.
I have also started to notice that the transmission shifts into 1st gear a little harsh vs the rental sonata as well. I did do my own transmission drain and fill with Amsoil fluid. Why its shifting like this?
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Sometimes mine shifts nice and quick, but sometimes it also shifts soft and slowly with a slight "flare" between shifts. Seems like it shifts better the harder I drive it, but I try not to drive like that. Dealer says everything seems normal to them. Maybe it's the adaptive transmission?
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I got my Sonata at 27k, its now at 76k and the cars been great although I had the following issues.
I've noticed sometimes when I startup and shift into reverse the car jerks a bit and its not a smooth transition. However other times the car is very fluid in switching gears. Should I take it in to have a look at it?
Also when I am turning onto a unleveled road (usually a higher road), I notice a creaking/knocking noise coming from the front of the car, also notice it when I reverse into a parking space sometimes.
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I came across this issue in my Sonata Turbo. At 5K+ RPMs, I can hear a sort of gurgling/rattling sound coming from the engine. Its concentrated on the driver's side behind the firewall. It goes away immediately once I drop below 5K RPMs. It isn't too loud; I didn't notice it up until now because I usually have some music going.
This is my first Turbo that I have ever owned. That would make sense because it only engages at high RPMs. My car has 3K miles on it. Been loving it so far!
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Noticed this morning I was idling at 1000 rpms and was wondering if that's normal or a little high?
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2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
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So on my new 2.0T Sonata I noticed a brief metallic rattle in the 2K-3K RPM range when you rev the throttle. I was very concerned.
The sales rep said it may be the heat shielding that is coming lose. He was concerned and said to bring it back when Service is open.
I just got back from the dealer: The service manager didn't know what it was but his tech said it was part of the turbo system, it's a 1/4 inch bar (parallel with the bumper) you can plainly see between the firewall and engine. He said what it did but I forgot to take notes.
I listened to another 2.0 Turbo Sonata on the lot and it has the exact same rattle when rev'd.
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2011 Sonata GLS, 95,000 miles.
This just started yesterday. While driving, the RPMS suddenly drop off. Depressing the gas pedal doesn't command any power output, even if I floor it, the RPMS continue decreasing and there is absolutely no power. The only way to keep moving is to completely release the pedal and then depress it again.
The transmission has been serviced twice by me and shifts smoothly. Should I plug a scan tool in ?
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I have a 2011 GLS with about 47K.
There seems to be an issue with acceleration around 50-65MPH as the RPMs will jump as if to hesitate between gears (just my assumption). Maybe driving style/conditions as I live in West-Central Florida?
I'm the original owner and we have two of the same vehicles.
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A few days ago I started my car, and as the idle was slowly dropping down from ~1500rpm, the whole thing started shaking a bit at 1250rpm. Enough to where I could feel it and my soda was vibrating like Godzilla was walking down the street. I can easily reproduce it by pushing the pedal just enough to get it to 1250 rpms.
The car has just over 3k miles on it, I did the intake filter mod on mine, and I'm wondering if that has something to do with it. Can a few of you who have the 2.4L engine, try to test it out for me? If you bring the engine to 1250rpms, is there a noticeable shake? If not, it must be the intake filter, and I will replace the factory airbox.
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I have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
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2012 Limited 2.0T. Bought it CPO (certified pre-owned with 12k miles). Current mileage 37,400.
Background ... Wednesday night, transmission started shifting funny. It felt like a delayed shift. RPMs increased by a few hundred before a harder engagement into the next gear. More noticeable between 2-3, 3-4. Also harder engagements in down shifting. Thursday, same shifting problem and CEL came on. I couldn't find my scan tool, so stopped by Autozone. Registered a P0711 (Transmission Fluid Temp sensor circuit). Called the dealership yesterday and dropped vehicle off. Picked up last night. According to the paperwork, the code that was present was a P0705 (Switch Assy-Transmission Range). Supposedly, the sensor was replaced and code cleared.
Driving home, the CEL was / is currently off. However, the transmission still isn't shifting properly. I am fully expecting the CEL to come back on. Never had an issue with the transmission indicator lights next to the shift selector (which I believe the P0705 symptoms were). On the printout I got from the dealership, it states "PLEASE NOTE GDS PRINTER NOT WORKING BEING REPAIR NO PRINTOUT AVAILABLE". I think dealership is just looking to milk some money from Hyundai.
Side note.... OE battery, which was replaced with another OEM when I bought the car 1 year ago, was replaced with a Die Hard yesterday.
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I've got up two weekends in a row to this : 20130922_064713_zpsd7701bd3.jpg
All of the warning lights on my dash are lit up. I cannot put the car in gear due to the drive not showing up. The RPM's show 0, then after a few seconds they bump and start working. After restarting car a few times it finally goes away. Everything but the check engine lights. Anything to try before I put it in the shop tomorrow?
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2011 Sonata GDS. I previously purchased 19" Gen coupe wheels and never had a problem immediately. Approximately 2 months later of driving with the 19" wheels, when I got onto the highway one day, the car did a slight jerk with acceleration and the acceleration halted for a split second. Ever since that day, anytime I accelerate fast and/or reach highway speeds, the car has a delay when I hit the throttle. The car then has a "rattle" "groaning" sound that comes when the RPMs hit around 2000-2500 rpm. It will go away if I drive slow speeds/slow RPMs or shut the car off for a short amount of time. I have taken my car to the Hyundai dealer 3 times. I've had the adaptive values for the transmission and engine reset and that didn't do anything. I had a mechanic ride with me in the car to make sure they were hearing the sound and the delay in shifting and the mechanic was very shocked and had never even heard a sound like this before.
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I had to stop quick today. My ice water spilled into the gear shift lever. A mile down the road my rpms went up high and the car barely moving.
2006 Hyundai Sonata...
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