Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Passenger B-pillar Bubbling And Disappeared By Cold Air
Nov 7, 2010
I've had my 2011 Harbor Grey Limited for about 1 month. Love the car but my wife noticed that after it was sitting out in the sun today the passenger B pillar had 3 small bubbles about the size of a dime. By the time that she got home the bubbles were gone and I cannot see any signs of them after closely inspecting the window. It was in the 50f today not very hot at all and not sure if the cold air on the drive home caused the bubbles to disappear.
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Developed a very annoying plastic creek/ tapping sounds from the passenger side C pillar. Almost sounds like it coming from between the c pillar and the rear window, but can't be sure. It's definitely trim related and not suspension. Also how difficult it would it be to remove the C pillar Plastic cover?
Lastly, how many have had success in getting rattles/ squeaks worked out after the 1 year adjustment warranty? I did mention that on a service visit when it showed up right before the warranty expired, but it was very warm that day and the rattle went away.
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I have a 2011 sonata and the rear window film is bubbling/peeling off the window to the point where it is hard to see through. The car is a month passed the warranty. I can't tell if this film is part of the defroster grid, or something separate that can be peeled off easily and replaced, or if I need a new window.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo Limited and the A/C seems to only be blowing cold air from passenger vents, and on driver side "warm/ hot ". What steps or what i can do to get this fixed.
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Everything with the vehicle is fine until November of 2015. I noticed that the passenger side is blowing cold air when it should be blowing hot air. The driver side is fine. I thought it was a thermostat issue. At first I didn't change it until I noticed that the temperature gauge was acting up and realized that my thermostat was stuck open which made the engine over cooled. Once I replace the thermostat, I thought it would solve the issue with the passenger side blowing cold air but it did not. Basically its not a heater core issue, blend door is fine, the hoses that runs to and from the radiator to the firewall is fine and the one that runs to the water pump is good. I closed the passenger vents so only the driver side blows hot air. Its an annoying problem. I know the dealer can fix it but they want an arm and leg and it seems like I may be forced to take it to get it fixed.
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I have a 2011 Sonata with 40k miles and am hearing what sounds like a dragging ... medal touching medal .... brakes dragging sound coming from the passenger side mainly when the car is cold. Could this be a possible wheel bearing going out???
the car is lowered about an 1.5 inches and and sit on a staggered wheel set. 18x8.5 up front and 18x9.5 in the rear. Just want to know if I should be worried.
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Over the past 9 months with the Sonata, I haven't really noticed anything that I dislike about the car. The 1 thing I dislike the most, that I can't change, is the "pick-up style parking brake". However, the other thing that I CAN change is.
When driving with the front windows down, the passenger seat belt flaps around and hits the pillar from time to time. It's pretty loud; to the point where it can be startling if you don't know it can happen. I'm trying to figure out a way to remedy, but if someone already has, how so?
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My rear passenger armrest is bubbling up just where the bend is. Probably about three inches. Make sure you check all yours out so it won't be a problem later. Just noticed mine not to long ago but I'm out of warranty.
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This is a 2011 that is parked in the sun a bit, but not for prolonged periods, and it's definitely not parked in death valley or anything. I don't like the fact that it seems like the laminate coating is bubbling and separating. I'm still within warranty and haven't brought it into the dealer to have them look at it just yet.
That said, what would be the fix for this? Windshield replacement? The pic is somewhat older, and the bubbling appears slightly worse, and is at a higher concentration, and goes the entire length, or at least 85% or so around the edge of the windshield border where it meets the body panels. These areas are not accessible from the interior of the car, nor are they on the exterior of the car either.
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My Hyundai Sonata Limited has 25,000 miles on it and is just 4 years old. The left front tire has a bubble in it. The dealer said it must be replaced ASAP. Is it okay to replace just the one tire or if it is important to replace both front tires or what's the right thing to do. All the tires are the originals that came with the car. Also, is there any warranty on the original tires?
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Front Right side passenger bulb is out but it has been replaced twice. Where is the fuse and what is the amp?
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My Sonata 2011 Limited passenger side headlight went out yesterday. I checked and the bulb was still good. I even tested it on a brand new bulb (i keep a spare pair with me just in case) without any luck.
I brought the car to the dealer. The service advisor suggested the headlight is out but I explained to him that was not the case. He still wanted me to pay around $95 for the diagnostic fee which i refused to pay since my car is still under the 5year/60K miles warranty. I do not want them later telling me the bulb is bad and I have to pay another $65 to get it replaced while it is still good.
Before that, the left turn signal was blinking rapidly and it is an on and off problem. Hence, I suspected there is a electrical problem with the car. I do not have HID or any additional electrical equipment installed beside what came with the car originally.
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Two weeks ago I was driving home from work and my heat stopped working. I pulled over and saw coolant dripping badly out of the bottom of my truck. I popped the hood and sure enough, coolant was bubbling out of the front passenger side of the intake. I took it to a shop to do the work (quoted at 500-550 out the door with a dorman intake). A week goes by and I get a call from the shop, "After two Dorman Intakes, the truck is not running right", what it could be.
The truck has 367k on it (not sure if original motor). Yesterday I get a call from the owner, " we put the original intake back on and fixed the leak with jb weld. The truck still runs bad. They claim they didnt do anything wrong and will not take any blame for ruining my engine. (Keep in mind the truck ran PERFECT when I took it in there). The truck doesnt throw any codes and they are at a loss of what could have happened. They put in 8 new plugs and 2 coils that they broke while in the process of removing the intake. F150 5.4 ...
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This happened once right after I bought the car in February and the service center said that I didn't have low tire pressure, but it registered because "cold air makes the air molecules move slower and sets off the tire pressure sensor". Yet all my tires are at 37 psi. Now this stopped all through the spring, summer and fall and last night it went down to 32 degrees and the thing popped up again!
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Had a really cold day here, got on the highway and from around 80-100 km/hr the car had bad vibration, would be unbearable for any extended time. I got up to about 120 and the vibration lessened.
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My '13 GLS has recently developed a rattle in the passenger seat. I know that's what it is, because if someone is sitting in the seat, or I press against the seatback, the rattle stops.
I'm sure this is being magnified by the absolutely horrible roads left behind by the "winter wonderland" we've had, but I'm not sure I can continue to drive 46 miles twice a day without thinking about running the car into a telephone pole.
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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Ive noticed that if I start my car, and put it into drive, there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves after hitting the gas. It almost feels like the car is stalling, but it's not. It only happens that first time after a cold start.
If I put my car into reverse first, like when backing out of the garage, it doesn't do it. Only when going directly from park to drive. Is this normal?
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When I'm stopped at a red light for a while I notice that my car doesn't blow cold air anymore, there's tons of blowing but feels like its just normal outside air being blown into the cabin even with re circulation on and AC on.
I've tried turning the AC on and off again at the light, and nothing changes...
I also notice sometimes the AC would decide to blow a little stronger, then let off again. Not sure if the problem is RPM related , i.e. IDLE issue or what.
Just wanted to see what fellow i45+ owners had in mind to what could be causing this issue... I've read something about condenser being clogged, and what not, but I have to be sure.
It works again and starts blowing cold air as long as I'm moving, so I guess it's not that big of an issue, but the hot temperatures here in South Florida can surely give you heat strokes in matter of minutes.
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Have this problem when the temperature is below 30F? This problem appeared one day when the car was parked outside overnight and the temperature dipped into the 20s. It refuses to upshift to 2nd from 1st unless driven for 10 minutes or so and will grind when downshifting to first even from 3 mph. The upshift to 2nd feels like a wall blocking so I just end up shifting to 3rd straight from 1st until it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so. Worn syncros? Shift fork/linkages? Dragging clutch? I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the fluid first but new fluid will not fix mechanical problems if indeed that's what it is. Strange part is that both 1 and 2 both started to have the problem at the same time so how can both synchros go out at once and this problem only appeared this winter and not last winter so it doesn't seem like its an inherent problem from the start.
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I am experiencing a front passenger area body creak noise and recently found a TSB to get it fixed. How much it might cost be to get it done at the dealership or anywhere else?
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