Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Overheating Every Once In A While At Idle?
Nov 23, 2013
I have a 2011 sonata gls that seems to overheat every once in a while. it happened first after a 2 hour cruise on the insterstate (rally so i exceeded 120 and averaged +85mph) after we parked and we started up to go to the next stage i noticed my temp was at 2 o'clock (this is after the car had been sitting for 30min or so, off) and while sitting at a long red light it went all the way to right (hot) so i turned my a/c off and eventually turned my car off to prevent damage (it returned to normal after a minute of interstate driving). Since then it seems to overheat when idling after driving it hard.
I noticed my radiator fan doesn't turn on normally but haven't checked it when the engine was above normal temp, when should our fans turn on (so i can check if it doesn't work)? I have 1200 miles left on warranty so I want to use it up if possible...
View 18 Replies
Advertisement
This happened all of a sudden today, engine i think is getting overheated. Like in the image below i see the red warning sign and temperature meter is all the way to "H". Well it keeps fluctuating. So i checked coolant oil and found it was empty so re-filled it beyond 'F' and i think it spilled it and was empty again. So this time i refilled the coolant oil up to 'F' and it stayed. But engine won't stop getting hot(i just did a couple miles after the second refill).
There is another problem with the air condition. IT blows cold air sometimes and normal air sometimes. Looks the compressor is turning off(i am really not sure). IS there a chance of any loose connection at the compressor ? If the freon is empty it should blow normal air continuously but it's not doing that. It keeps switching.
View 31 Replies
About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
View 5 Replies
My truck all of the sudden started overheating when running idle or at low speeds. No towing or anything with 89 degrees outside it can hit max water temp in matter of 2 minutes once at running temperature and standing on red light. I checked the coolant level - looks good and changed the thermostat just in case, but the problem is still happening. The fan is running/kicking in as well when it gets hot.
I'm waiting for OBD2 plug to read the stats from the computer, but what else would you suggest I can check for issues ? Oil temp gets to about 222 and transmission to about 194, but it doesn't keep on increasing. One another thing I noticed is that when I have AC running it will actually pop a overheating message on the display (I don't continue to drive it at that point) and when it gets hot it seems as if it didn't have much power.
I don't know if this is connected, but about two months ago it started blowing black smoke when starting from red light or stop sign or when accelerating with gear reduction. It is a 6.7 diesel one and only has 60k miles on it, so I'm hoping its nothing major.
View 2 Replies
2013 Sonata. What are the engine idling RPM's is when sitting at a red light? My engine seems to be a rough when sitting still.
View 8 Replies
I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
View 17 Replies
My 2011 Sonata 2.4L GDI has already 76k miles. Spark plugs were replaced around 75K miles, Air filter was replaced. Fuel treatment was done several time since ownership, Intake CRC for GDI was used once about 2K miles ago. The car is doing good until recently. When I accelerate the car acceleration goes uneven. It is not like hesitating but you feel like the car is taking it in steps. Sometimes the first run in the morning, the car idle feels a little bit rough but that's only in the morning. It has been like that for a month now. What do you think it can be? No Check engine light, no pending codes and nothing major except that. I really suspect a bad upstream oxygen sensor (Air fuel ratio sensor). What do you think?
A look through the intake shows a very clean intake. No signs for any carbon deposit. A Hyundai dealer checked the car and told me there is nothing to worry about. Just told me to buy more Hyundai fuel treatment (AKA Chevron Techron) which was done and still I feel uneven acceleration.
View 35 Replies
Have this issue during full stops or at slow speeds?
View 4 Replies
My 2011 2.0t has developed an odd ticking sound from the engine bay that is audible when idling. I haven't been able to pinpoint the source of the sound because once I drop the vehicle in Neutral it goes away although sometimes I do hear random ticks when I do this. The ticking sound is intermittent and sometimes I hear nothing.
In the video at 11 seconds the ticking starts. At 18 seconds it ends as I drop the car in neutral. What this sound could be? I'm going to try to hit the handbrake and check myself or have someone in the drivers seat while I go check but have yet to truly pinpoint the source of the noise.
[URL] ......
View 10 Replies
My 2013 sonata gls is only 2 months old and I am hearing a pinging or more like a pop noise coming from my engine about every 15 sec when in idle, what it could be?
View 2 Replies
My 2011 Sonata SE gets a rough idle when my AC is turned on, and sometimes it produces a whirring noise as I'm driving in low gears. It all goes completely away if I turn my AC off. I'm afraid my AC might go out at an inopportune time. What could it be?
View 12 Replies
When I drive on a hot day the engine overheads; it almost red-lines. This occurs mostly when I drive up long steep hills (I live in the mountains) with the AC on, but even without the AC on very long steep hills (5+ miles) the engine will overheat badly. I can go over a hill and head downhill or flat and things return to normal quickly. I can also drive with the AC on doing 0-80 mph on a flat road and everything is fine all the time.
- Fan is working
- Thermostat has been replaced
- Radiator flushed
- Engine coolant temp sensor replaced
- Heat is working
View 1 Replies
I own 6 Prius', 5 gen 3's one gen 2. The 2011 gen 3 I've had for the longest and its just had a battery failure due to over heating. The garage have managed to get the battery replaced under warranty but they are now telling me the reason for the overheating is due to the cabin air vent that cools the battery gets blocked. They have advised me Toyota do a replacement part that solves this problem (at cost to me, £150) He has advised me to get this done on my other generation 3's. Why are Toyota not cleaning the filter during service and why has this problem not been identified to me earlier?
View 19 Replies
I just replaced my OEM battery with a duralast from autozone. The battery had 138,000 miles. Shortly after, the check engine light came on and code says P0106. Map Sensor. Seems like to much of coincidence that this happened. Have read that disconnecting battery cables for 3 hours may do the trick.
View 8 Replies
My 94 Toyota Pickup is having a strange intermittent issue. Engine will run hot, like the thermostat is stuck periodically. Does not overheat, just runs much closer to the red than usual. Again this only happens sometimes. It is worth noting that it is winter here in Northern Sonoma County, CA, so it may actually get into the red if I were driving around in the summer. I have also not taken it on trips over 30 miles when it was doing this.
When this problem occurs (e.g. the engine has been running hot) and I shut the truck off and say run into the store, then come back to a heat soaked engine it idles very rough when started (like it's missing on one cylinder). Once I put it in gear and start driving the idle smooths out and I have no problems. Problem has been going on for about a week.
Sticking thermostat seems obvious but that does not explain the rough idle on start up. Or does it. If so why?
View 11 Replies
My R has 133,000 miles and is overheating at speed. It will cool down at idle. Both fans are working. The water pump was replaced at 105,000 and I replaced both fans at 95,000 miles. The dash temp gauge goes almost to the red, but not all the way. It gets hot enough to shut off the A/C compressor.
Based on the collective wisdom of this forum, does this is a failing water pump, or a partially opening thermostat? This past winter it seemed to take longer for it to get warm. I'm leaning to thermostat.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1996 Chrysler LeBaron and when it idles it overheats so I did my research and I figured it could be the water pump I replace the water pump and during that process I had to disconnect the timing belt then put the water pump on and reinstall the timing belt when I put everything back together I thought I was done but it didn't start and I'm wondering if it's because the timing is off. I did not reset the timing nor move the camshaft how can I tell what's going on.
View 1 Replies
'04 Honda Civic-1.7LFirst the car started overheating only it was sitting in idle. As soon as you would go or if you revved the engine the needle would immediately drop after a few seconds. Replaced the thermostat. It seemed fixed, but started doing it again, put in a new thermostat incase other one was faulty. Still having same problem.The system was pressure testing and everything was fine. Then had the system flushed and new thermostat put in. It worked for about 150 miles and started doing the same thing.Brought it in for the water pump, the old one was corroded and warped so it seemed like the problem.
After about 100 or so miles still overheating when idle.We had the radiator replaced, the old one was complete junk, thermostat replaced too. I drove it like normal in town for a day, the next day it started overheating, this time it was doing it while driving, got to about 3/4 up. Turned the car off for a bit, and it didn't do it anymore on the way home.Today I was driving and it was fine for 4 miles, I sat idling for 1 minute, after driving 1 more mile it started overheating, temp gauge got to halfway.
I parked it for a bit and started driving, there was no heat coming from the heater, I had it full blast, nothing but cold air. The car started overheating again, once again halfway. Parked for about 3 minutes and then turned it on, temp was fine and it was blowing full heat out, the car temp was fine the whole way home, no more overheating.
The next step we will take is to replace the head gasket and/or heater core. Is there anything else that this could be? Literally the same week the overheating started, the rear lights were having issues and one time there was no power to the windows. Then the door locks would stop and then work again intermittently. The door locks no longer work at all. Not sure if it is just a coincidence, maybe everything is breaking at once. But there has been no loss of coolant and the oil and coolant consistency have been normal too.
View 19 Replies
1.8 jetta... Seems to do this when at idle only on occasions it goes above 190F. Waterpump was changed about 5k ago so I'm sure its not that. Thermostat still needs to be changed. It seems like if I turn the heat on it stays at 190F.
View 2 Replies
My 2015 2.4L Hyundai Sonata randomly started overheating today. The coolant tank is full and it never did this before. The temperature gauge goes up and the information display says car has overheated.
View 9 Replies
Check out the pics, noticed car was overheating, let it cool down, got it home and found this broken hose (it was a crack in the hose before I broke it all the way taking the throttle body off). What is the part number for this hose and what else I should be looking for now that the car overheated?
View 18 Replies
