Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Overheating And AC Stops Working When Driving Into Some Traffic
Nov 14, 2016
About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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So it's happened a couple of times already when the temperature has dropped below 20 degrees my subwoofer stops working until the temperatures come back up.
Is there some sort of protection I should know about because I skimmed through the owner's manual and didn't see anything about it. Seems to work perfect what's the temperature back up later.
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Bought a 2012 Sonata GLS back on July 3rd. I've had 3 instances where I'll be running on cruise control, I'll disengage it and then when I go to resume it doesn't do anything. I can turn Cruise on and off but it will not Set nor Resume. I have to stop and turn the car off and then back on for it to work again. I have a service appointment this Saturday for an alignment issue so I'm going to have them check this out too.
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My A/C quits working when in stop and go traffic or at a long light. Comes back on when I get going again after a minute or 2. One shop says thermistor another says thermostat is faulty causing engine to overheat. Not sure who to believe. Car gauge never shows engine to be overheating. 2007 Hyundai Tiburon
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Today is the first day I noticed this problem !! driving regular hit traffic I notice my fans come on so I look down at my cluster and my temp gauge is a quarter pass 190 ?? Happen 3 times with in 10 minutes of each other no air condition or heat fans on ??? Get to my destination stay there for 2 hours then drive home but no temp issues ??? 74000 miles I hit today on the car completely stock ?? Thermostat , housing ??
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Run my lexus around in traffic or up hills the temp gauge goes into the red, leave it running in the driveway it overheats and yes the fans work using the a/c so i know its not the fan motors the wires from both the fans go into a fan computer in the middle of the fans near the top of the radiator.....searched all over for a fan temp switch does it have one?
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So I've had my 2011 Hyundai Sonata since May of 2013 and I've had few problems with it until now. For some reason, at seemingly completely random intervals, my cruise control will completely stop working while I'm driving. What exactly I mean by this is that I'll be driving with cruise control set and suddenly it kicks off and I have to continue by manually controlling the gas pedal. I am also completely unable to turn Cruise back on until I have shut off the car and turned it back on. There are also times where I'll have Cruise control "On" but not using it and suddenly the Cruise indicator light on the dash will disappear, I'll try to turn on Cruise at that point and it will not work. Again this is the case until I turn the car off and then back on again.
I have followed a couple guides on adjusting the wiring harness in the steering wheel, behind the air bag, to make sure it is not a loose connector issue, but this has not seemed to work. Another reason why I think this may be something more than just that is that I'm also having transmission issues that seem to correlate with the times that my car loses the ability to use Cruise Control. Everything is completely fine with the car, including the transmission, until the above mentioned issue occurs, at which point if I happen to be driving below about 50mph, or reach a point where I have to slow down below 50mph, my transmission begins to intermittently disengage and reengage fairly erratically. It has happened a couple times while cruising at around 65-70mph, but has acted the worst bellow 50mph.
To make things even MORE confusing, the transmission issues seem to correct themselves with a simple shut down and restart of the car, just like with the Cruise Control problem. I'm at a complete loss now. I don't want to deal with a dealership unless I absolutely have to.
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I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
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My Sonata suddenly started having front right brake sticking issue. It will happen only after an extended distance of frequent drive & stop. Something like Houston daily ride. So, after the traffic jam mysteriously clear and you can get some speed, starting at 40MPH a high grinding noise from the front (Ceramic brake pads) and the car feels very heavy. The sticking phenomenon will disappear if you wait a little with avoiding using the brakes.
I am going to check it today. So far I know that the sliding pins are not the issue. I recently cleaned them and lubricated them. The front right brake will get hot while the left are just in normal temperature. The brake pedal is getting higher while the sticking is about to happen and happening.
My first guess is the Flexible brake hose. Or maybe a bad caliper. I think if the master cylinder was the issue, I might have more than one sticking brake wheel. I don't know how common it is to have a bad ABS unit causing this issue. It feels really like a build up pressure caused by a valve effect of interior deteriorated brake hose.
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Yesterday in the pouring rain the low pressure tire gauge in my 2014 Sonata lit up in the middle of traffic. I drove to the nearest gas station and checked the pressure of all 4 tires, even though the diagram on the dashboard pointed to only one tire. Filled and checked all the tires again (still in the pouring rain) and drove off, only to find that the low pressure light was still on.
I was told by a mechanic-friend that I should bring it in for service and have the sensor reset. I didn't have this problem with my 2011 Elantra. Maybe if I just kick the dashboard it will reset the sensor...
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I have a 2011 Sonata GLS key ignition (no start button). When I turn the key (foot on brake), the engine tries to turn but very weakly and then stops. I do it again and again with same results. Sometimes I get a better response on the key turn but still wont start. After about 10 to 15 tries it will finally turn over and start. I purchased a new battery today but unfortunately that was not the problem as the car is still having problems.
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After pumping for a few seconds the pump stops because it thinks the tank is full. I have been searching for other 2011 Sonata owners with this problem but can't find any. I see it on older cars, something about charcoal pellets, but not on new cars. Could this be charcoal pellets on this car? The car is still new, why would this happen?
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It is not the brake switch. I can shift the transmission. Put key in ignition and turn to start. Engine starts to fire then stops and can hear starter turning while still holding key in start position. The car did start after many time and got home.
Tried to start again and no go. Warranty is done. I have read something on-line about cam position sensor? Last couple months had strange idle at stop light that went away and this can be also a symptom of the cam sensor.
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I recently (3/3/14) purchased a 2011 Sonata Limited 2.0 with only 6750 miles. I've owned it for 3 weeks and put 2000 miles on it. So far, lots to say good about it but one very disturbing quirk- on occasion, when accelerating from a stop in traffic or when entering moving traffic from a side street or driveway, there is a sudden loss of power. This power loss lasts from about one second to as long as 3-4 seconds before the engine recovers and the car resumes normal acceleration. I've taken it to my local Hyundai dealership twice with this complaint, but the defect is intermittent (technician was unable to duplicate it at the time) and there is no defect code to be found.
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I have a 2011 sonata gls that seems to overheat every once in a while. it happened first after a 2 hour cruise on the insterstate (rally so i exceeded 120 and averaged +85mph) after we parked and we started up to go to the next stage i noticed my temp was at 2 o'clock (this is after the car had been sitting for 30min or so, off) and while sitting at a long red light it went all the way to right (hot) so i turned my a/c off and eventually turned my car off to prevent damage (it returned to normal after a minute of interstate driving). Since then it seems to overheat when idling after driving it hard.
I noticed my radiator fan doesn't turn on normally but haven't checked it when the engine was above normal temp, when should our fans turn on (so i can check if it doesn't work)? I have 1200 miles left on warranty so I want to use it up if possible...
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Went to the mall the other day for a few hours, when I cam back out and when I went it start my car it would not start. Symptoms are weird, I can hear the starter begin to crank then it stops and the dash flickers on and off, interior and exterior lights flicker on and off, starter cranks on and off also. This keeps going until I push the start button again twice to turn the car off.
This keeps happening every time I try to start it. When I popped the hood I noticed the positive battery cover was open.. I closed it and when someone tried to start it for me the cover flew open. It was like 2 seconds after the starter cranked a master circuit breaker would trip, then reset over and over again.
Stranded on a Saturday, I had to join CAA online and request a tow to the dealership. The tow truck guy said I was the 4th push to start hyundai with exactly the same issues he had a call for that day. He went in the car vanished under the dash and got the car started. He would n't tell me what trick he did, but he said drive it to the dealer and leave it there as it was a one shot trick.
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This happened all of a sudden today, engine i think is getting overheated. Like in the image below i see the red warning sign and temperature meter is all the way to "H". Well it keeps fluctuating. So i checked coolant oil and found it was empty so re-filled it beyond 'F' and i think it spilled it and was empty again. So this time i refilled the coolant oil up to 'F' and it stayed. But engine won't stop getting hot(i just did a couple miles after the second refill).
There is another problem with the air condition. IT blows cold air sometimes and normal air sometimes. Looks the compressor is turning off(i am really not sure). IS there a chance of any loose connection at the compressor ? If the freon is empty it should blow normal air continuously but it's not doing that. It keeps switching.
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I'm having 2008 Sonata Limited model with 60k miles. i was on a busy street when my 08 Sonata died and i had to coast into a parking lot put it in neutral and restart my car. This is happening two or three times per week. I reported this issue to nearest hyundai dealership and they are not able to figure out this problem. Again this week I am taking this car to them to find out the root cause. What it could be?. Right now I'm kind of scare to take this car to outside.
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I was driving to work but Sonata stop in the middle of the road acting like ran out of Gasoline. But the fuel gauge showed 1/4. I was tried to crank few more times but didn't start. Called road side assistant, tow truck took it to nearest Hyundai dealer. After they inspect, your fuel gauge sensor is wrong, fuel tank is empty.
My 2013 sonata is showing 61500 miles on it. They asked me $450 to replacing the sensor because bumper to bumper warranty covers up to 60,000 miles.
I decide to fix it later, put little bit of gas and than fueled up all the way to the top at nearest gasoline station. Fuel gauge works again, it is now showing full tank. I do not know how long it will last but it is scary.
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My heater works when engine on tickover then stops working after a mile or so driving. I have taken heater hoses off and it does not seem blocked and have replaced the engine thermostat. Now what can I do??
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While driving my 2009 Camry the abs light and break light pop on and the speedometer stops working as well as the tacomitor and the odomitor stops ticking off miles as well, also the ac fan will run but the compressor stops.
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