What the heck? I have not heard of an over heated O2 sensor. I know they have an extra wire in them for a heater element but I have two temp codes indicating the failure and a permanent code as well.
I know its under warranty but what a weird failure. Overheating...Guess Ill be making that appointment at service earlier than I expected.
I have a 2011 Sonata with 30000 miles. It started shifting funny. It would jump when you put it in drive and shift strangely in all gears. Called the dealer to make an appointment, cancelled as I couldn't get off work. In the meantime, car stopped doing this.
After a while, this started again. Stopped by a shop that offered free code check, the code is P0711 Transmission Fluid Temp Sensor. They said your fluid is overheating and we don't know why, we have to take the transmission off to find out the cause.
I went to a holiday light show event with friends, where you drive through about a mile of light displays at a few MPH, but there were long lines to wait to even get in, so the car went from freeway driving to being stopped and occasionally creeping forward a bit, then stop and go slow once in the exhibit, all told probably 1-1/2 hours like this. The air temperature was in the mid-20's F. To my great surprise, my heat gauge went to the top of the scale and I got a red dash light. I did not see any coolant steam from under the hood but I found I needed to add to the tank today, it was on the add line.
It certainly looks like the low speed fan never came on. I was looking through the forums and someone said the low speed fan is supposed to be made to run by the engine temperature reaching a certain point, is this a computer function or a mechanical switch? I also understand that A/C operation makes the fan run at high speed. I will probably let the dealer diagnose this, what happened here? Was it a mistake to keep going and allow the engine to stay hot even at idle? One more thing, as soon as I got back on the road, the temperature went right back to normal.
I took my 2000 passat 1.8t to a couple of places and both say that my abs and brakes are fine even though there is a flashing light that says brake lights failure and abs light. The brake lights do work. Is there a way for me to clear the code?
View 4 RepliesI went to Jiffy Lube and got an oil change, fuel system cleaning and cabin air filter replacement & sanitizing. I drive an '09 Sonata with 112K miles. When the car came out, I pulled away and noticed that the airbag symbol on my dashboard was lit and the center console was flashing that my passenger did not buckle their seat belt (I didn't have a passenger or anything on the seat). I went back in and after they looked at it, they said they couldn't find anything that could've happened at anytime and was a "horrible coincidence."
Hyundai ran a diagnostic tests and one of the 4 things that came back was B1389 (in addition to B1516, B1324 and B1515). B1389 signifies "Oil Temperature Sensor Circuit Failure." If the guy changing the oil damaged this (does this even get touched on an oil change), could that have offset the sensors for the airbags?
I just don't see how they done the above listed work and coincidentally my airbags are all deactivated afterwards. I'm reading a lot of bad reviews online, including quite a few for NOT putting oil back in the engine after the change.
My engine light came on the other day and the code given was P0711, which is the transmission temperature sensor. I went to the dealer and bought one so I can quickly replace it. My question is, where is that sensor located? My haynes book doesn't even mention it. I called the dealer and was put on eternal hold.
View 5 RepliesWifey calls me this morning while im already on the road saying that the MFD is indicating, hi temp, but the temp needle is at 0, as it should be when the car starts first thing in the morning. This was just this morning when she was leaving for work. Told her to shut down, and restart car, warning gone, ok good to go but not even reaching to end of street the gauge needle is already at operating temp (90). Met here back home and took a look under the hood. The coolant canister was well below min.
The car is a 2009 wagon with 20k kilometers. So off to the dealer to check for any leaks. they did a pressure test on the system and no leaks. They said the coolant had evaporated and it is not unusual.
I just wanted to share my story here. Last week on a routine trip on I-5 warning lights started flashing indicating hybrid drive failure. The car automatically shifted into neutral and I was limping along down hill. Luckily I saw a downhill exit and had the foresight to turn off where to my horror I discovered that my brakes didn't work. So I had to coast to the bottom of the hill and again made a quick decision to turn into a slight uphill side street to force myself to a stop with the parking brake. At point the car completely died and I couldn't even shift into neutral to push it.
After towing it to AAA and avoiding a collision on I-5 (if I pulled into the shoulder without breaks I likely would have crashed into a retaining wall) and then not being smacked after I got it to a stop I was pretty shaken...I'm lucky to be alive.
So, I have a 2004 Toyota Matrix with about 104K miles on it, regular oil service and general maintenance. A few weeks back, my check engine light came on, took it in for diagnosis. The code was for the TCC, indicating a recent failure to shift properly. I've noticed no unusual behavior before or since the light came on, but I'm told that this is an indication of a failing transmission. My local transmission repair shop took it for a drive and said that this was probably the case as well. Estimates for a rebuild run in the 2200-2400 range. That said, I've also seen that it could be that I just need new transmission fluid. I had the fluid replaced, again, no noticeable shifting problems or unusual car behavior.
I'm wondering if
a) I should just drive and maintain the car as usual and if the light returns, then consider a rebuild or
b) begin to make preparations to get rid of the vehicle.
Bluebook estimates this in the 3-3500 range, so I'd assume it's sale value would be quite a bit less (perhaps less than the cost of a rebuild) for obvious reasons.
07 Prius. So I get the triangle of death, car shuts down, and throws the A093 code indicating pump failure.
View 10 RepliesI need a replacement driver side door, towing mirror for a 2011 Ford F250 SuperDuty with turn signal, heated, electrically adjustable manual-extend and manual fold options. The truck VIN number is 1FT7X2B67BEC96261. The truck also has an Outside-Air-Temperature indication which is what I'm not sure about. It is my understanding that the Outside-Air-Temperature sensor may be in the side mirror. Looking for any info on the temperature sensor located on this truck? I found an aftermarket mirror while I can not afford Ford. However, the aftermarket mirror ad says it does not have Outside-Air-Temperature and I would like to keep that working.
View 1 RepliesMy 2011 has just over 27K miles on it. On Saturday the Check Engine light came on. The next time I started the car, it cranked over for about 5 seconds before starting, which is unusual. Then multiple times Sunday and this morning, it seemed to take even longer to crank before starting. This morning, it barely would stay running. And there was a lot of hesitation driving down the road.
I scanned it with my OBD II scanner and got P0087 (Fuel Rail/System Pressure Low). I dropped it off at the dealer this morning and jut got a call that they are replacing the High Pressure Fuel Pump. But they had to special order it overnight and probably won't have it replaced for another day after that.
Is the high pressure fuel pump the device sticking out the top of the valve cover on the back, driver side of the valve cover, with the multiple fuel lines going into/out of it?
Having problem with their Electronic Power Steering (EPS)? My new 2011 Sonata SE's EPS failed numerous times at ~500 miles. Failures all occurred shortly after starting the car when it had been sitting for a couple of hours. The EPS and ESC fail lights came on and I lost my power steering when I tried to make my first turn. The problem always cleared when I shut the car off and restarted. My dealer service department reset the computer in the steering column and noted that this is the first time they've had to work this sort of problem. Hopefully that fixed it for good...two days so far with no problems. Maybe a software glitch?
View 12 RepliesI was driving our '11 Sonata Limited 2.4 today with wife and infant son... While merging onto a main road, I accelerated to switch lanes without slowing traffic and noticed the car felt oddly underpowered.. I kept my foot on the gas, and a substantial rattle emerged from under the hood so I let off and drove steady on... We made it to our destination and I popped the hood to find oil soaked into the valve cover and head... I checked the oil and the stick was still wet, but since the car was just running I'm not sure the exact level...
Unfortunately, I recognize the noise it made on the road, and I'm 99% certain it spun a rod bearing... In other words, the engine is shot. 63,362 miles, synthetic oil changes every 4k-5k miles, dealer maintained...
This is kind of a strange (minor) issue, but I noticed just recently that the outside temperature reading on my 2012 Sonata GLS is registering about 10 degrees hotter than the real outside temperature. This is driving down the road, not parked in the sun. It showed 91 degrees the other day as I was driving home from work, when the actual high for the area was barely 80.
My thoughts were that something was blocking or covering the sensor for the outside temp reading, but don't know where that sensor is located to check it...or if there might be some other way to "reset" the temp reading?
I know many of the vendors for the Gencoupe will install lower temp radiator thermostats to keep the engine oil temps down.
What would the effects of this be on our turbo's? Grimmspeed makes a 140* thermo for the gc's and I believe it's 20* cooler than stock for them.
Would this to something we could do to protect from detonation and run the engine a little cooler during the hot summer months?
Today was the first time my wagon has stranded me due to a mechanical issue. During city driving my coolant temp light came on so I pulled over to check it out. The fans appeared to be working, the coolant was a fair bit above the normal mark, but I'm not sure the water pump was running. I couldn't feel anything when I squeezed the top radiator hose. This is an '03 with about 50k miles on it.
I'll be taking it in Monday morning so I was curious what people's thoughts were. If it's the water pump is there anything else I should consider getting replaced while I'm at it? I'm still on the original timing belt, a change I've been delaying a long time since I drive so little so it might be time to bite the bullet and do it.
I just bought a 2014 Sonata GLS two weeks ago and have a question about the car icon below the engine temp gauge inside the tachometer. Looking for description of its function? It shows the card doors open. I believe it also shows the trunk open. But the owners manual doesn't mention it and I can't find any information online about everything it shows.
Specifically, I'm getting a low tire pressure indicator (we just started getting temps below freezing here). When the car is driving, the little car icon shows the tires, but the back driver's side tire is missing. Does that mean that that's the tire with the issue? Not a big deal, but I'm still figuring the car out and that would be a really cool feature. Also, does the little car icon show anything else?
My car has had a rough idle (no MIL). Scanned for codes and got the following:
P0552 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - Low
P0553 - Power Steering Pressure Sensor - High
I'm picking up the part at the dealer this afternoon. I printed out a diagram of the component location, and it looks to be easily accessible.
Installed hid and relay kit yesterday...after reconnecting the battery the check engine light came on the dtc that was pulled was p0106 for the MAP sensor... i had it cleared and it keeps coming back... The car still runs fine just seems as if it idling low...
View 8 Repliesrecently started getting a 336 code indicating crankshaft positioning sensor out of limits.
removed the 7x sensor but it seems ok and the car does start ok. checked the ECM input of the 24x sensor and I never get anything but straight 11.2 volts when crank turns. checked at the 24x connector and get the same. (green lead on B connection).
problem I have is getting to the sensor. The crank pulley bolt just will not let go! I've tried impact gun set to max,(typical DIY type gun, not the best) and tried a breaker bar with hammer. how to get the crankshaft balancer off.