I have a 2011 Sonata and my overhead light stays on in the DOOR position. I didn't have problems until I took it to a car wash a few months ago and I think one of the workers did something by accident because it hadn't worked since. I have to keep it OFF at night but I hate entering my car at night and no light comes on.
View 1 RepliesCreak coming from their overhead courtesy light/ sunroof control area? Can't figure where it's coming from.
View 3 RepliesThe air bag light in the dash came up, and stays up. I checked for connections under the seats, and tried the battery disconnect thing. N/G. It's my son's car, and until he brings it in to get the code read, is there anything I can do in the meantime?
View 4 RepliesTPMS sensor has recently came in and stays on. However i checked all 4 tires and the pressures in them are at the appropriate values. I am assuming this could be related to maybe the system just not "seeing" one of the sensors or something. I heard if you use an OBD2 adapter you can see the values reported and it will show exactly what tire is reporting the problem.
View 13 RepliesWhenever I start my 2011 Sonata Turbo after it has been resting overnight, the brake warning light comes on and stays on. It's not immediate—it usually takes five to ten seconds, and whether the emergency brake was on when I started has no effect. Once it goes on, it cannot be shut off without shutting off the car and restarting—at which time it acts normally. The braking system is fine.
View 4 RepliesJust purchased the 2012 GLS this past Saturday and everything is good except for one thing. My dome light even in the "door" position stays on after starting the car and driving. I have to manually switch it to off to turn the interior light off, which is annoying. I called the dealership today and they had no prior experience with that problem. BTW, I did have a sunroof installed.
View 4 RepliesSometimes when I start my car, parking brake light fails to go off. I know this is usually indicative of low brake fluid, but mine is not low. I rarely use the brake so I don't think it's the parking brake switch either as it only happens if the parking brake is not engaged. Never happens on the occasional use of it.
Restarting doesn't seem to work unless I set the brake, restart, then disengage it. Very strange problem. Not a big deal but is a bit perplexing. I never see a CEL or any codes generated at all.
I recently (July 2016) bought a 2012 2.0T Limited with 14K miles. Got an awesome deal on it and really love the car. About two months ago the car had a total loss of power/boost. I took it into the dealer and they performed a wastegate actuator adjustment (something I will be doing on my own now if it becomes a problem again). Now at about 21k miles I'm having a different issue. Here is what's happening:
Accelerating from a stop the car feels as if it's falling out of gear intermittently. Once it happens and I press the gas more/floor it, the car doesn't respond. If I let off the gas and then press it again, the car will then start to accelerate again. On the highway cruising at 70ish, the same thing happens and it even oscillates with constant throttle like its down/up shifting. The ESC light came after a 20 mile highway trip of this oscillation. No CEL. When I got off the freeway, the navigation screen said there may be a problem and I should press the bluelink button.
When this is happening the cruise control either doesn't work at all or the "cruise" light will come on but I can't set a speed. Tonight I noticed in the rear view mirror that the brake light stays on or even flutters after I brake which corresponds to when the cruise is or isnt working as well as when the car intermittently falls out of gear/oscillates falling out of gear with constant throttle. If I notice the brake light is on without actually braking, I can take my foot and pull the brake pedal towards me which turns off the brake light and then the car seems to work correctly as well as the cruise control. The car is driveable but definitely something is wrong.
I should mention that I checked the voltage for the wastegate actuator and it is 3.97v which I believe is within tolerance. All of these issues with no CEL.
TPMS light was on. It was the spare , added more air. Then checked the other tires, one was low too and added air. Now TPMS light stays off no matter what position the TPMS switch is in. The light used to come on when switch was in the 'wrong' position.
2005 GX470 66k miles
I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 20k+ miles on it. Purchased it about a week ago & had no issues until about now. About an hour ago, my check engine light came on & air from the driver side right vent started blowing even though the fan is off. What the issue might be? Also, my fuel door constantly pops open by itself. While driving, when I close my doors, and when I close my trunk it always pops open. Is there any way to fix this type of issue?
View 2 RepliesThis seems to happen a lot when it gets really cold out. Started happening a few weeks ago. Sometimes if I notice the light starts to flicker on, at a stoplight I'll open the door, push down the rubber button that triggers the light, and shut the door. It'll usually stay off for a little bit.
I noticed that there's a little dent on the door where it presses against the button, and I'm wondering if that's a possible reason why this issue is happening.
I have a 1997 Honda Accord LX....
Before I start the car I will keep the AC switch to the on position. The car will start then shut down. If the AC switch is off before I start the car. It starts normal. Once I get the car started idle or driving I can turn the AC back on and it has zero problems. I took it to the dealer. They did a oil flush and was saying my oil was low due to late oil change. They ran a computer diagnostic and said nothing came up. What could this be?
View 3 RepliesI just got the Hyundai Sonata SE 2013 and it's great so far. I have a question about the recycled air button. It seems to be controlled by the internal computer for different scenarios.
My issue is that when I have the air turned on and let's so that I turn it off (set to 0) the recycled air mode disables and I start smelling the outside air coming in. So I have to manually push the button to enable recycle air to close the outside vents.
Also, when I turn off the car and later start it back up again recycled air is disabled again! How can I get the mode to stay on recycled air (or the mode it was previously on) when I start the car!?
I have a 2011 SE and the sunglass holder on the ceiling will not stay in the up position. When I first purchased the car it stayed up with nothing in it but when I had a normal pair of glasses in it after the sun beat on it for a little while it would come down on its own, but now even with nothing in it, it just opens back up every single time I close it. It looks like the little plastic "arm" with a metal pin in it on the right side is just sitting there and should be attached to it some how but I can't see how to/where to put it in the holder itself.
View 48 RepliesLooking for a picture or description where this sensor is located? I assume very close to the crank pulley, but I'm hoping I will not need to remove the crank pulley to gain access to this sensor. I have a 2011 Sonata, 2.4L engine.
View 3 Replies2-3 times a month the yellow TPMS light with exclamation point comes on, blinks about 10 times, and stays on steady. It's been doing this pretty consistently since I got the car, with one exception. I have a separate set of wheels & snow tires for winter and those have their own sensors. When I had those on the car for 2 months, I never saw the TPMS light. As soon as I put the OEM wheels back on, it lit again.
So finally I went to the dealer today. I figured it was a bad sensor. Naturally the light wasn't on when I got there. They scanned it and saw in the history a communication failure with all four wheels. They called Hyundai, then came back and told me that electronic equipment that I'm driving past can set it off. They mentioned banks & cell towers, among other things.
I don't think this is my issue. I travel the same route every day. The light comes on intermittently, sometimes when I'm on a rural highway away from any electronics. And I drive by plenty of banks and cell towers without it coming on.
So they didn't do anything for me. I'm at 43K. My concern is once I hit 60K and the warranty is done, if the TPMS brain croaks, I'll be on the hook for it.
The lock on the rear driver side door doesn't work, it stuck on lock position and it won't open with the remote. You can't even turn the lock by hand from inside. It's like it's jammed or something. The rear passenger door lock was broken a while ago, it was making a nasty noise but still working so I had it changed but this one just stopped working.
How am I gonna fix that. I was thinking in order to fix the lock, they have to remove the door panel first, and to remove the door panel the door should be open to get to the screws. Is it gonna be stock for ever ?
I bought an '02 LE, 4 cyl w/123k miles and found electric issues. Are they somehow related and indicate a bigger issue? No lights by shifter (PRINDL). Auto shut-off for overhead light works intermittently. Driver door lock button works intermittently – at times when you pull to lock door it’s ok. At times it slides back and forth doing nothing, and can’t be locked manually w/ key or w/ remote. Driver and passenger windows kind of jump at start of open and end of close.
View 2 RepliesWhen it rains my "door ajar" light comes on and the overhead lights won't turn off. that's the common problem. i've read many threads where it says to spray liberally with WD40. i intend to do that but the plot thickens.
Usually, after a few dry days, the light goes off and everything returns to normal. Not so any more. the newest episode entails the light staying on for two weeks of good warm, dry weather. naturally i always take the bulbs out. Now, its somewhat sporadic but.... I'll try to explain since I'm still trying to wrap my mind around it.
1. light stays on, dome lights won't go off.
2. tried dome lights couple of times, still wouldn't go off
3. finally, inserted dome lights and they wouldn't come on (except when manually switched on) however the door ajar switch was still on.
4. EXCEPT when i opened the passenger door the domes came on but wouldn't go off so i took the bulbs out again.
5. that's where i am now.
Not positive but I'm thinking since the new wrinkle in established expectations that I'll probably end up replacing the driver's switch. Before I tear up the door panel i need some hints concerning removal. the door has power windows and locks (which i need new actuators but that's a different story). Is there anything I need to watch out for?
Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
I think the actuator for my driver's rear door is on the fritz. Basically it fails to lock/unlock automatically like the other three do. The other three work fine - to include the passenger rear door.
Again - if I manually push the lock it works as it should (both lock and unlock) - but it will not unlock with the FOB. I removed the door panel and everything looks good - I can't for the life of me figure out how to remove the inner (black) panel so I can get to the actuator.
I can hear the actuator trying to unlock it some times - I can hear a vibration coming from the door when it tries. But again - the passenger rear works fine. I think the biggest thing I need to do now is to get behind the inner door module (black trim) to see what is going on - but I can't figure out how.