Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: No Startup Until Keep Start Button Pressed For More Than 10 Seconds
Jun 30, 2015
I cant start the sonata 2011 unless I keep the start button pressed for 10+ seconds. It just doesn't start anymore by just pressing the brake and hitting start button once. I figured before I replaced the brake light switch, is that's what causing this problem?
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Sometimes (not all the time) when I get into my car with my key fob in my pocket, the car decides to let out a 2-3 second beep when I press the start button. (similar to the beep that occurs when I walk away from the car while its running and the fob is in my pocket) I have tried looking in the user manual, but I haven't found anything to explain why this is happening. Needless to say, its kind of annoying.
2013 Sonata 2.0T Limited
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My 2011 sonata rattles when starting. It sounds like noisy lifters and quits after 2-3 seconds. It does not do it on the first start-up of the day, but on subsequent starts when the engine is warm.
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2011 Sonata, 42,000 miles. Every now and then the car wont start. Press the start button, everything lights up. Instead of the car then starting I hear a small clunk and then no start. I DO NOT get the "Press the Brake pedal" message. The last time this happened we tried repeatedly to start with no luck. The car then sat for a day. I tried it again with no luck. I them removed the battery clamps and cleaned the battery terminals, reinstalled, put a Start/charger on and tried it again, with the same result. I then opened the engine compartment fuse box and attempted to remove the two "start" relays. They would not come out, but I was able to jiggle them slightly. The next attempt the car started normally. Started normally again this morning.
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I installed a factory remote start system on my 2011 sonata. the car will start run for a few seconds then shut off and the start sequence begins again this happens over and over until I unlock the door and add pressure to the brake pedal.
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I have a 2013 Sonata Limited with an odd problem. Once every 10 starts or so, I depress the start button and the car starts up but only after a few seconds' delay. I don't hear anything during those few seconds, no cranking, clicking, or other noises. Normally, the engine turns over immediately, but every now and then, there's that odd delay.
When I get into the car, the photo of the car and the word "Sonata" do show up on the center of the dashboard, so the car seems to be detecting the key OK (and I already changed the batteries in the smart keys). This delay in turning over seems not to be related to the coldness of the car (it has happened both when the car hasn't been used for a few days and when the car was used maybe 15 minutes ago). I should add that this does NOT seem to be the brake sensor issue that I had with the 2011 Sonata SE that I leased previously, as the ESC light isn't coming on.
The car is on its original battery, so I'm wondering if this indicates that the battery is weakening. Also, the car has been in a garage where there is construction work occurring with a fair amount of dust.
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So the other day I was waiting on my friend outside her job, but the car was on off, I got bored and pushed the Push Start button twice without holding the brake so only the stereo will turn on. However when I turned on the car again to driver off the stereo shut off and wouldn't turn on. It's been three days now and I was hoping it was some sort of glitch that would fix itself out, but it hasn't. Its a 2011 Sonata without the Navigation, Just the simple bluetooth fm/am radio with CD.
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2011 Sonata Se. Keyless fob will not unlock car or open trunk. Brake lights and overhead lights are all that will light. Immobilizer indicator flashes yellow when start button is pushed with brake depressed, car does not even attempt to start.
Putting fob in console will also cause the Immobilizer light to flash, no start up. Holding start button with foot on brake for a minute does nothing.
Owner's manual says call dealer. Car battery is 1 year old and 2 fobs have new batteries, and neither will work.
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Recently I went out to start the car with the key I typically use, and when I pressed the Start button I got the message "Key Not In Range." The key will lock / unlock the car, but simply won't start it. I've been having to use my spare / second key in the meantime. I haven't had a single problem with the car since I bought it Sept 2012.
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Yesterday after coming to a stop and pressing the start/stop button, the vehicle wouldn't turn off. Eventually I got it to turn off (by pressing the button).
After I got it to turn off, I pressed the start button and it does not turn on. I get a message saying "Check VSC" . 1 click from under the hood and that's it. All power is there. Radio/AC/etc all work. Not brand new, but the battery is fully charged.
Trying to diagnose and fix the issue myself before calling for a flatbed to come and pick it up.
I dont think its the starter since I've had issues turning it off. What it might be? Its an '07 with 65k miles.
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I have a gen2 2007 prius (right hand drive). Problem I am having is [INTERMITTENT]when pressing the ignition button to turn off the car. When I press the button the system completely shuts down instantly and rather roughly and nothing is active (the Key is still in). I then remove the key and the system starts up! I then press the button to stop the system, put the key back in and restart it. It then works fine - until the next time. Clock resets itself as does the climate controls. Not sure what to make of this. I have just recently replaced the 12v battery in the boot.
PS. Forgot to mention that when the system goes dead, if I fold down back seat and thump the floor panel above the battery under the seat the system goes on?? Any clues. Will take it to mechanic as soon as he gets back from holiday!
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2011 Santa Fe 3.5 L
I've isolated this rattle down to the cam phaser( CVVT) in the right cylinder head. It rattles bad for 2-3 secs on cold start or after it sits for 3 hours.
I've put in 5w20 synthetic oil and synthetic Lucas additive and it cleared up the noise for short interval start ups.
I changed the cam phaser in the right head with a used one ( 40k ) but it didn't make a difference. I should change out the attaching cam as well.
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I recently bought a 2006 Hyundai Sonata 3.3 V6. Had another issue related to the rear wheel, which I fixed. Today, I changed the oil filter on the car (along with the oil). I have heard this engine noise before, but with the cover off it appears a little louder. It's basically a ticking sound.
The engine uses no oil, and has no other leaks. It has some noise on startup for maybe 1-2 seconds (like a loud lifter or something, but it goes away in less than 2 seconds, and at the same time the oil light goes out). I changed the filter today because I was told that a leaky gasket could result in the Filter not retaining oil between starts, causes some minor knock for a few seconds.
But anyway, this other ticking noise seems to be regular, regardless of condition. I have heard some people say that some engine noise is normal for this engine, but how about this?
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Have a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
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Ive got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 111k miles. I purchased the car new. For the past several months the brakes make a crunch or creaking sound when the pedal is being pressed OR released. The funny thing is it only happens when driving forward. When I apply the brakes while reversing, the brakes are silent. I did a pad slap at 68k and have taken everything apart, cleaned and re-lubed to no avail. The sound can be heard at the front wheels when someone else works the pedal while the car is parked. Pads have about 50% thickness. Pads? Calipers, master cylinder?
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My defrost button blinks for 25 seconds when I start the car. After it stops blinking the fan comes on but I won't defrost the front windshield, air only comes out the side vents.
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I have a 2010 santa fe ,when I push the remote start button on the fob the park lights blink 2 times and no attempt to start I checked the rear hatch switch, door switches and the hood switch and they are working. What is the troubleshooting procedure for the remote start system.
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This morning I noticed my Trunk release button by the steering wheel, and the release button on my key fob won't work. Using the key manually does open my trunk though.
I checked, and it is not in the locked valet mode. I do hear a slight "click" when I push either button so it's trying to pop the trunk but no activity.
What this may be? Didn't know if it might be an electrical issue and if there was a fuse to check? Or if maybe it's a mechanical problem and i'll have to get it looked at.
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So I recently installed interior LEDs and noticed the other night that the dome and maps are slightly lit up when the car is on, they aren't fully on but you can tell that they are slightly lit up, when I press the button obviously they turn on fully but then go back to being slightly lit after I try to turn them off.
If I switch my map button to "off" then they are pitch black, but if it's on "door" then they are ever so slightly lit up.
It doesn't bother me at all as I hardly notice it and doesn't obstruct my view, but I want to make sure that it won't cause any harm down the road.
When car is off, or map light button is set to "off" then map lights are turned off completely, if car is on or map light set to "door" then map lights are so slightly lit up as well as the dome light in the back. Not sure if bad just curious.
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Locked the keys to a 2011 sonota in trunk. Locksmith got side door open but trunk will not open with button inside. Other set of keys 1500 miles away!
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Car wouldn't start, would just kind of do a high pitch whining. Bought new battery and still does it. It might crank right up or take up to 5-6 times. I'm a second owner and I believe it is the starter.
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