Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: New Brake Pads Still Squeak After 11k Miles
May 5, 2016
I replaced the front pads on my 2011 sonata with ones I purchased at an O'reilly's auto parts store about 11,000 miles ago. They did squeak initially after swapping but I thought that would go away eventually, nope it still makes that squeak/screech during dry/hot weather. Not all the time though, its mainly when coming to a stop over a long distance (slowly). I drive mostly highway miles. Will replacing them with OEM pads fix the issue?
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I've had a clinking sound at the front of my car when driving over sharp bumps like seams or cracks ever since about 6k miles. I only notice it with the windows down. I used to think that it was the coils on my Nuespeed sport springs hitting each other, but after I got coilovers and the noise didn't change I was sure that it wasn't the springs. When talking to my mechanic on the phone he suggested that I see if the problem goes away if I apply the brakes when driving over something that causes the noise, and sure enough the noise isn't there when braking.
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So, that means I have put 106,104 miles on my truck this year, and missed about 7 weeks for the truck being in the shop, could have been another 17,000.
So, it's time to replace the factory original brake pads?
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I read here somewhere you should NOT use caliper pin grease or any other grease for that matter on the pad sliders; either on the bad or the cup itself. I think it was Smoke. I have been doing this for quite a while and need to know why it should not be done?
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So I took the pads off and saw pistons that push caliper against rotor were to far out to install new pads. (rear pads were still intact, both front pads were out when i pumped) So im pumped the brakes thinking it would reset them and alls it did was push the fronts out more.. I noticed fluid leaked out of the pistons after fully pushing them out.
After seeing that pushing the pedal only pushed them out and didn't reset them, i pryed them in with a C wrench. Was quite difficult but managed to do it. Note I only did this on the front pads..
Rear was just fine, piston went back in easily. I filled brake fluid fully and still does it - Now pedal hits the floor when i first hit it and seems very light when braking.
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I'm gonna replace my front and rear brake pads. Any tips? Do I need to pull the rotor off and clean the axel? I've watched a couple of youtube videos but they leave me with a few answers. I have all the tools, what kinda lubricants will i need? Any recommendations? I hoping I can do a flawless job without and squealing...
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Driving home today and all of a sudden, hot air... I stopped and turned the car off then back on, hoping to reset something. Still nothing.
It almost sounds as if I can't even hear the compressor kick on when I turn on the AC button.
Looks like I'm heading to the dealership tomorrow to see if this is still under warranty. Really upset being that this car is only two years old.
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I am driving 2013 Sonata for over 13 months, after 2 Synthetic oil changes, I have noticed that colours of oil turns darker after only 1500 miles each time, first synthetic was Quaker State and currently Castrol synthetic.
My Question is, what is the reason that causes the oil to turn dark,what is that substance which goes in oil to make it dark. My previous car Honda Accord could go 7,000 miles without any change in synthetic colours. Whatever it is which causes oil to get dark, cannot be good for engine.
I am being forced to change synthetic oil after 2000 miles. Do not want to drive my Sonata with dark oil. What causes even synthetic to turn dark after 1500 miles. Also why synthetic oil stays clear upto 1500 miles.
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My 2011 SE is starting to get some engine knock at 50,000 miles. I don't believe the dealership has ever ran the recommended fuel cleaner through the car. Do you think that would take care of the issue? If I do run the fuel cleaner through it, do I have to use the Hyundai brand?
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I am following the 7,500 maintenance intervals for oil and filter changes. At about 3,000 miles the color of the oil was golden brown but definitely had started to turn brown but still had a golden tint. Is light brown oil normal for 5,000 miles? The oil level is OK and still near the Full mark.
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I just left to get gas. When I left my house, I had 64 miles til empty. The gas station is about 4 miles away. I put $5 in and when I got back in my car it was reading 59 miles til e. so I drove to another gas station and put another $5 in. This time, it showed 56 miles til e which is where I was before I got gas the second time. I have tried to reset it but can't figure out how to... I've got 90 miles until my warranty expires... Any easy fix? Or do I need to bring it in?
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I've got nearing 160,000 miles on my GLS and the first 150k were absolutely flawless. However, I have recently noticed I'm losing nearly 1 quart of oil every 1,000 miles. The exhaust isn't smoking and there is no noticeable oil leaking inside the engine bay. Where it might be going?
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Mostly highway miles. Squeal doesn't happen all the time, only sometimes.
The pads I bought were from O'Reily's here and I believe they were BrakeBest Ceramic brake pads. Should I give it some more time for the squeal to go away? could it have been a poor brake job? (I didn't do it)
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Oil in my 2012 Sonata 2.4L is black on the dip stick in 2000 to 3000 miles. Dealer says normal for this car, I don't believe it. What do others see? Also only gets about 32 mpg on highway and has black deposits on the tailpipe. I have gotten better than rated mileage on every other car I have owned so I don't believe it is my driving technique.
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I noticed my wheel rim is hot to the touch after driving about 30 miles on the highway. I assume that this is heat dissipation from the brakes. Is this normal?
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This just gets stranger by the month. I could have sworn when I first got this 2011 Sonata that the console read 341 after filling it up for the first time. I thought it had said that after I filled it the second time (just after Hurricane Sandy - yes, before the long lines - I was lucky) and it read 329. On those occasions the console had read approx 67 & 69 miles to empty. I know I filled it with 87 the second time around. The first time may have been with 89. And when it stopped at 14.x I thought to myself, hmm, didn't it fill to 15.x the first time? Weird. So I went on with my life.
This past weekend it read 50 miles to empty and so I filled it again with 87 (same gas station I should point out). And just like the last time, before this time, it filled with 14.1xx and read 288 miles to empty. It just seems to me that "Miles to Empty" has slowly gone down. On the third filling I believe it may have read 303 to empty.
Is it me? I am imagining things here. Could have that much sludge/dirt/whatever it my tank because of the gas station I visited or the 87 and not 89 that I have been putting in? Oil and filter were changed in mid October and then again in mid March. Thats about to happen again on the 28th but also to have the required NYS Inspection done. What should I say to them if anything? Could I have picked that crappy of a local area gas station?
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3300 miles in, and my brake pedal is extremely hard/stiff when I attempt to start the car. I don't have issues getting it to turn on, but it literally moves maybe 1/4 inch at most. It just randomly started doing this.
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So last night on my way home I was stopping at a traffic signal and noticed a grinding noise from the drivers side front wheel. Upon further investigation I noticed a lot of brake dust on my wheel. I took it to the dealer thinking the caliper might be seized up. Well they looked at the caliper and said it was OK but the inside pad was worn to the metal. The other pads still looked good but since they have to replace the rotor they might as well replace all of them. The tech told me that being up north where they use salt corrodes the pads and doesnt allow them to move freely. He also asked me if I drive a lot of highway miles and I said yes, 30 miles a day. I guess from what he said is that the less they get used the more they will corrode up. So premature brake pad wear could be worse.
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Brought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
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i have the brake (!) the ABS and the VSC lit up after i got new bearings and new brake pads and rotors, the car was also stalling before the mechanic removed these bearing "dust cover" circles that must have been causing speed sensor interfernce bc the spedometer was stuck on 0....so the car seems to be done stalling after those were removed and all the big lights went off then i hit the brakes a few miles later and those three lights came on...
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I noticed the front brake pads were touching the rotors when I was painting the brake calipers. I had my e-brake engaged and in park. I'm assuming the e-brake only brakes the rear wheels because the front rotors were still movable. Although the car still rides fine but I'm not sure if this is normal.
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