Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: New Battery And Check Engine Light Is On
Aug 9, 2016
Got a new battery today but now the check engine light is on. Went to local auto parts store and was told it's the MAP sensor. I had the battery replaced 3 years prior to this and at that time the check engine light didn't turn on. Is that normal?
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My 'check engine' warning light just came on after only 12,000 km on my 2011 GLS. What emission control part would be the first to fail? I ran my 06 Sonata 100,000 km+ and never saw any warning lights! And no, it's not a loose gas cap!
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Check engine light on and off. Code shows turbo boost throttle position sensor is the problem. I can't find a part with that name.
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2009 2.4 Sonata. Replaced the battery. Engine light came on after battery replacement. Engine code P0106 (MAP sensor or vacuum leak). Car drove fine before and after the battery replacement. Engine light after replacing battery?
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2nd battery in 2010 Sonata 4-cyl died on my wife last night. Got a new battery today and put it in. (Couldn't move car even to push as there wasn't enough juice left to get transmission out of Park). Started right up after battery replacement and ran engine at idle for probably a half hour. Engine seemed to run a little funny. Lost RPM's and sounded like it might die a couple of times, but it stayed running. Now the dreaded check engine light is on. I've had a couple of stop-starts since it began, so I'm not sure it's going to go away. Car seems to be running fine now. Is there a connection between the battery going dead (so dead I lost radio presets and trip odometer readings) and something fouling up the check engine system?
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2009 Sonata 4 cyl with 40,000 miles.
My car was slow to start last night. This morning took it to Autozone and they checked the battery, which was bad. Got the new battery installed and drove about a mile then turned off engine. Upon restarting engine, Check Engine Light came on.
The timing is such that it seems the CEL is because of the battery. How to handle? My car has otherwise run perfectly in its first 40,000 miles of life. Only other relevant detail is that the presets on my radio kept resetting, I figured this may be because of low battery power.
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I have a small problem with my 2011 Camry base model manual transmission. I replaced my rear view mirror and installed the EC homelink with compass rear view mirror as the replacement. I followed the instructions and it works fine but after connecting the battery again and turning the car on my check engine light stays on. I had the same problem when I installed my HID head light kit and I disconnected the battery and apparently it reseted the computer because the check engine light turned off, but I tried to disconnect and reconnect the battery twice now after installing the mirror and my check engine light is still on. How to reset it?
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I got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.
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4 years ago, I also had a check engine light. I brought the car to a mechanic and he just cleaned the parts and the engine light went away. I was still under warranty then. Below is my original post:
Removing Canister Close Valve and Fuel Filter
Today, I have a P0449 code. Something is clogged again. I am now out of warranty because the Canadian emissions warranty isn't as good as the ones in the US. The gas pump keeps shutting off when I pour gas.
What the most likely culprit is? I may try to replace the part myself if is easy enough.
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I driving 2011 Sonata. Check engine light was ON while driving, which are fault P0741, TORQUE CON CLUTH ABNORMAL. The light sometimes ON, and sometime will OFF while driving, is it any problem?
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While driving up a long hill on the highway, one of the cylinders quit firing causing a bad engine vibration and check engine light. I turned around and drove home, pulled the plugs, and found the plug closest to the passenger side had bridged. I'm not sure why; it almost looked like it melted or had some sort of physical damage. This was on a 2013 Sonata Limited 2.0t with 45000 km / 28500 miles.
Pictures here: Spark plug failure - Album on Imgur
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I own a 2013 Hyundai Sonata. Two months ago I realized that my transmission shift occasionally while I am driving, especially when the weather is cold and I park my vehicle for more than one day. Then my engine check light came, after two days it went off. I went to the dealership and ask for a multi-point inspection (without telling the inspector the transmission problem), they recommend a transmission fluid flush, then I went to an auto part shop to ask for reading engine check light code, they see P0711. After researches online, I understand this code is about transmission fluid or transmission fluid sensor defect.
My question is that, would a dirty transmission fluid cause the P0711 code, as some people stated online ?
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS with 20k+ miles on it. Purchased it about a week ago & had no issues until about now. About an hour ago, my check engine light came on & air from the driver side right vent started blowing even though the fan is off. What the issue might be? Also, my fuel door constantly pops open by itself. While driving, when I close my doors, and when I close my trunk it always pops open. Is there any way to fix this type of issue?
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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I was installing xenon supply HIDs in my 2012 Sonata and when attaching the power cable to the battery my ratchet went ahead and touched metal while it was assisting me in tightening the nut
Small spark, tiny puff of smoke and the popping sound associated with such an event. I see what appears to be a little fuse under a clear plastic cover on the positive battery terminal itself. On it says 150 AMP. the pop sound came from that. So I am assuming its blown.
Here is my real concern...the red battery symbol now stays on when I start the car...
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Show 2 error P0011 and P0014.
Sonata YF 2010 2.0 80.000kms ....
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My 2011 Camry LE 4-cyl has 48k miles. Today I was driving on the highway during very heavy rain. My vehicle slip indicator light came on, along with my check engine light. I stopped at Advanced Auto for a diagnostic check. They said they couldn't be sure if it was a sensor, or maybe a wiring issue.
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I recently got a Sonata from my parents when they moved to Pennsylvania. It's a 2007 with the 2.7 liter engine. It has had low oil for some time, so when I got it (last week) I put more in, up to but not above the full line.
It has had now for just a couple of days a very bad rattle, which is barely audible (but still IS audible) at idle and gets very severe during and after acceleration. It remains for some time even after the gas is no longer being pressed, then subsides a bit. I diagnosed it as knocking, but just today the check engine light came on and the rattle got louder.
I don't have another car to drive and I have class in five hours. Should I drive it or call a cab?
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I have a 2000 Jetta VR6 and my Immobilizer (car & key) dash light came on, along the check engine, battery, and a few lights when tried to start my car to move it. I've been doing my research and know the problem is the communication between an RFID chip in my remote key and the key cylinder. My current remote key is old so I wonder if I need a new key. Now I do have a spare remote key (hardly used) and valet key which I could have overnighted to me.
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So I went to start the car (2013 C3) and it wouldn't start. The batter was horribly dead (dim screen and would only go into POWER ON mode.) I charged the battery for like a half hour using a plug in charger using the hood terminals. When I tried to turn it on later, The only thing that came on was the check engine light (really dim) so it's not charged up enough yet obviously. The issue is now it won't turn off. That check engine light is still there. No other screens are on and the vehicle doesn't make any other noises (door ajar, etc.)
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I unplugged the battery and left it over night. Started her up and there was no check engine light. I'm thinking it could be because of the CAI I have installed? Took it to autozone and he said it showing no codes.
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