Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Manual Transmission Blocks Out 2nd When Cold
Jan 29, 2014
Have this problem when the temperature is below 30F? This problem appeared one day when the car was parked outside overnight and the temperature dipped into the 20s. It refuses to upshift to 2nd from 1st unless driven for 10 minutes or so and will grind when downshifting to first even from 3 mph. The upshift to 2nd feels like a wall blocking so I just end up shifting to 3rd straight from 1st until it's warmed up for 10 minutes or so. Worn syncros? Shift fork/linkages? Dragging clutch? I'm sure the dealer will want to replace the fluid first but new fluid will not fix mechanical problems if indeed that's what it is. Strange part is that both 1 and 2 both started to have the problem at the same time so how can both synchros go out at once and this problem only appeared this winter and not last winter so it doesn't seem like its an inherent problem from the start.
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2011 w/ 80k 6 spd man w/column start.
The last couple of months getting first crank attempt symptoms. Cranks fine but won't turn over. 2nd time fine. No OBD codes. Other times np at all. But today big problem.
- Started fine @ 5 degrees F (unusual for area)
- Warmed up fine
- Left in parking lot for 10 min
- Attempted start, could not. Then again the next 8 times.
- Finally wore down battery. Had it towed to dealer (I could feel the pocket suction)
Explained issue to dealer. 3 hrs later they called. Said it was the battery, had only 290 cc left. I explained before I wore it down there was plenty of power avail. Whatever, screwed anyway -- pay $115 diag or $149 for battery, just take the battery I said.
Took it home, seems fine for now but explained if I have to take my very sick son out in cold weather tomorrow there will be repercussions. Anyway, the whole situation is bizarre.
I've looked on other threads with auto tns and brake switch issues but that does not apply to manual. Only requirement is step on clutch. I read about crankshaft sensor but no codes. Only thing I found was perhaps loose fuses or wiring but dealer said they checked that and whole system is good.
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I bought a stick shift GLS in April and overall I'm happy with it. However I think that something is not right with the way it shifts.
Basically when I shift from 1-2-3 it is almost impossible to do it smoothly unless I wait until the revs get to 3K RPM between shifts. This is fine for merging on the highway but not driving around town. Going from 1st to 2nd is really jerky.
Also the engine stalls easily. There is practically no time to give it a little more throttle (or clutch) when you begin to hear the engine revs go down.
At first I thought it was just that I needed to get used to it or the clutch was somehow not broken in yet but now I have 2500miles of driving in traffic and it is not any better.Also I have driven manuals for the past 24 years so, despite what it sounds like, I have a lot of experience driving stick. Additionally my wife drove it for a few days and she had the same experience.
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My 2005 elantra 5-speed had typical clutch issues. Had a new one put in where i worked which repaired dump trucks and dumpster roll-off trucks. Got in the car and still had similar issues. I say similar because now when i start it cold, i have no 1st or 2nd..start moving in 3rd and drop into 2nd. After about 10 minutes of driving, you can chirp the tires in 1st. Could they have put gear oil that was too heavy and it needs to get warmed up? Does this sound possible? Should I change the gear oil?
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I have a 2011 Camry 6 speed Manual Transmission and every so often when I shift gears I hear a squeal noise in the engine right as I fully let off the clutch and give it gas in the next gear up. It usually does it when shifting to 2, 3, and 4th gear. Any other Manual Camry owner with this issue that might know what it is? I never really hear it if I take off slow or shift at a slow/normal pace, but if I'm in a rush and have to pick up and GO then most likely will do it.
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I have a 2011 Ranger with four wheel drive, a manual transmission and 34000 miles on it. The transmission gets very stiff after sitting for a while. At the worst I can't get it into first or reverse at all without hunting through all the other gears to find one it will shift into to get things moving. Is this normal for this vehicle or should I worry?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4cylinder. On first start of the day the engine shakes a little untill it warms up and is driven for about 2 blocks. After that it is smooth. I cleaned what I could of the throttle body on the car, changed spark plugs and PCV. All that worked but cold start shake still there.
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This happened once right after I bought the car in February and the service center said that I didn't have low tire pressure, but it registered because "cold air makes the air molecules move slower and sets off the tire pressure sensor". Yet all my tires are at 37 psi. Now this stopped all through the spring, summer and fall and last night it went down to 32 degrees and the thing popped up again!
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Had a really cold day here, got on the highway and from around 80-100 km/hr the car had bad vibration, would be unbearable for any extended time. I got up to about 120 and the vibration lessened.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata 2.0 Turbo Limited and the A/C seems to only be blowing cold air from passenger vents, and on driver side "warm/ hot ". What steps or what i can do to get this fixed.
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I'm fairly new to these cars. I just bought one used 2 weeks ago. lately in the very cold new england mornings i am seeing the battery light flash at me when downshifting on the highway. seems to go away after about 5 miles and doesn't happen every day. Belt and the tension look ok. My car is stock and has 52k on it.
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Ive noticed that if I start my car, and put it into drive, there's a 2-3 second delay before the car moves after hitting the gas. It almost feels like the car is stalling, but it's not. It only happens that first time after a cold start.
If I put my car into reverse first, like when backing out of the garage, it doesn't do it. Only when going directly from park to drive. Is this normal?
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I own a 2011 Hyundai Sonata GLS. Everything with the vehicle is fine until November of 2015. I noticed that the passenger side is blowing cold air when it should be blowing hot air. The driver side is fine. I thought it was a thermostat issue. At first I didn't change it until I noticed that the temperature gauge was acting up and realized that my thermostat was stuck open which made the engine over cooled. Once I replace the thermostat, I thought it would solve the issue with the passenger side blowing cold air but it did not. Basically its not a heater core issue, blend door is fine, the hoses that runs to and from the radiator to the firewall is fine and the one that runs to the water pump is good. I closed the passenger vents so only the driver side blows hot air. Its an annoying problem. I know the dealer can fix it but they want an arm and leg and it seems like I may be forced to take it to get it fixed.
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When I'm stopped at a red light for a while I notice that my car doesn't blow cold air anymore, there's tons of blowing but feels like its just normal outside air being blown into the cabin even with re circulation on and AC on.
I've tried turning the AC on and off again at the light, and nothing changes...
I also notice sometimes the AC would decide to blow a little stronger, then let off again. Not sure if the problem is RPM related , i.e. IDLE issue or what.
Just wanted to see what fellow i45+ owners had in mind to what could be causing this issue... I've read something about condenser being clogged, and what not, but I have to be sure.
It works again and starts blowing cold air as long as I'm moving, so I guess it's not that big of an issue, but the hot temperatures here in South Florida can surely give you heat strokes in matter of minutes.
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Have a noise from cold starts in the morning when it is cold outside? Mine does a ticking noise, no not the normal ticking noise, but a different ticking noise like something is tapping something. Could this be that the fuel injectors or cold so it makes a louder noise? Another noise is constant clicking when I decelerate or am going very slow. It only does this when it is cold outside and it lasts for about 10 to 15 minutes and then the noise becomes a lot quiter. Is this normal?
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So I have a weird situation. My Sonata GS with the 2.4 engine has trouble starting ONLY during cold weather (-2 or colder) if it's been sitting for a few hours. If the weather is warm, then it starts fine most of the time. The car tries to 'fire' for about 45 seconds before it does; and 'fires' with no hesitation at that point. The car runs fine, no hesitation or rough idle. I've cleaned the intake system to make sure it's not clogged or dirty, replaced the air filter, cleaned the MAP and throttle body. My battery died a few weeks ago, so I've even replaced that. What this could be? Everything I've researched or looked into would throw a code, or have symptoms while driving...yet it runs fine once it's started, and no codes/lights are showing. Don't want to just start swapping parts hoping to find the problem...
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So I have a 2012 Sonata with about 80k miles on it. I bought it used a few months ago. It has recently started having issues with the brakes.
When the car is cold and I start driving, every time I push down on the brakes they will do a quick grab after a few seconds. Sometimes its a slight grab and other times its a jerking grab. After I drive 10-20 miles or so and it warms up this goes away.
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I've had my 2011 Harbor Grey Limited for about 1 month. Love the car but my wife noticed that after it was sitting out in the sun today the passenger B pillar had 3 small bubbles about the size of a dime. By the time that she got home the bubbles were gone and I cannot see any signs of them after closely inspecting the window. It was in the 50f today not very hot at all and not sure if the cold air on the drive home caused the bubbles to disappear.
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I've been driving my wife's sonata to work this week and notice as I start to slow down at around 20MPH the car almost surges a little bit. Maybe I am not diagnosing it correctly but it's almost like it's downshifting rough.
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I have a Sonata 2011 YF , with 2.4 GDI and 58,000 miles. There is an engine's oil leakage dripping on the ground exactly from the area between the engine and the transmission gear box where probably the o-ring ( i assume) is placed. The car is no longer covered by warranty.
The workshop guy says that the O-ring (i am not sure what exactly is called in English) needs to be changed and that process will have to drop down the whole gearbox (which is expensive and rather unsafe to) , so i am thinking about any other solutions that might be a great deal (using engine oil with more thick viscosity 10W50, 10W60 since i am living in an extremely hot conditions)?
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2011 Sonata Limited ... I have just under 60k miles and did a tranny drain and refill at 24k and 55k. Just had the brake light switch replaced. For some reason when cruising with the car in overdrive, if I let off the gas to decelerate and ease into the gas again, I get a real hard down shift and shift. So every time I get on the gas again it is either kicking out of overdrive or downshifting and shifting back immediately. 99% of the time it is a hard thump. When I have the cruise set I do not notice this at all. It does it in ECO or out of ECO. This is new and I started noticing this after the brake switch replacement.
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