Sonata I45 (YF - 2011+) :: Malfunction / Charging System And EPS Indicator Lights On
May 13, 2013
I just bought a 2013 Hyundai sonata (this is my first car) and I found a wired thing happening when I just turn on the car (without turning on the engine) that Malfunction indicator light, Changing System warning system warning light, EPS and Check Engine Light are ALL on but after I start the engine, these lights will be off. Is this normal or there is something wrong with it?
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Noticed the warning indicator on dash, linage of a battery, this morning. Thought maybe battery needed to be replaced? So got replacement battery and installed it, but warning light still on.
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Last night, our '06 Honda Odyssey's red "charging system indicator" light came on. I quickly looked it up in the book, as sudden red lights on our car scare me, and it said that "The battery is not being charged. Go to a service station or garage where you can get technical assistance." Well, that was useful. It's Sunday.We turned off all the extra electric (a/c, lights, etc)on the way home. On the way home (less than 5 miles) several other indicator lights flashed on and off periodically.
The ABS, VSA and brake system indicator lights. We also noted that the headlights seemed dimmer than normal. When we got home, the front end smelled hot, but no smoke or anything. This morning, I looked to make sure all connections were tight, and they were. We had turned the master light switch off last night, but the door lights (on the bottom edge came on when I opened the door. Other than that, we have not tried cranking it, as I'm afraid that it will totally drain the battery.
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The indicator lights stopped working on the switches and the dealer replaced a fuse and they worked again. Now they are out again and it seems like the heater on the drivers side is on the low setting for random intervals.
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I have a 2008 Prius with 106,000+ miles on it. It was running fine till 2 days ago, I didn't start it yesterday and today when i went to start it, I get the Hybrid System Malfunction light, along with check engine, the red triangle and TPMS light. The gas engine tries to start up, then 1 second later makes a grinding noise and turns off.
I am in Toronto and its cold, but not THAT cold yet. So I am doubtful its temperature related. I checked the fluids and they all seem to be sufficient (engine oil, radiator fluid, power steering fluid). I didn't notice any leaks under the vehicle either.
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I am trying to diagnosis a new issue on my 2006 V6 Sonata . I plugged in my code scanner which gave back MIL Status as ON, but there was no Check Engine - Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) lit up on the instrument cluster. It also showed that the EVAP, CAT and O2S was "Not Ready". When I checked the codes, I had P0031, P0037, P0051 and P0057, all of which are tied to Low Heater Circuits in the O2 sensors. When I checked the cables under the hood, the lower O2 sensor cable closest to the firewall was stuck onto exhaust pipe. It easily pulled free but I tried clearing the codes but the same 4 codes remained. I checked the resistance across the heater control and ground circuit, all 4 O2 sensors were around 10 ohms.
There seems to be several issues:
1) Why doesn't the instrument cluster register the MIL status as ON and display this Check Engine Light?
2) Why are the EVAP, CAT and O2 "Not Ready", I've heard that these are sometimes tied to disconnecting the battery. I've put almost 3K miles on the vehicle since the battery change.
3) OBD Codes P0031, P0037, P0051, P0057, I would expect all O2 sensors to fail at once, is there a fuse or other control that needs to be replaced or reset?
I am trying to get everything ready for emissions testing on this recently purchased 06 Sonata and I am thinking these issues will cause it to fail.
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On my way home from work tonight, the master warning light and the check engine (malfunction indicator lamp) appeared on the dashboard, and the hybrid system warning light has popped up on the multi-informational display.
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I drive a 2011 f-150 5.0. I hit a crater-sized pothole out on a dirt road and the check battery light came on. The truck hesitates slightly when i put on the gas. I already check the voltage on the battery 13v off 15 on and I took off the Postive cable and the truck still ran. What could be causing the issue.
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1997 3.2 2WD 299,000 miles original alternator
3 times in the last month when I start up first thing in the morning dash warning lights are lit up and the electrical system is not charging. AC doesn't work and windows operate very slowly. A simple rev of the engine has resolved the problem. However, the belt is very tight (and I mean very) and there is no indication of it slipping.
This morning, a rev didn't solve the problem. I only work a few miles from home and my mechanic is also very close so I just figured to head that direction. About 1/4 mile later charging kicked in and everything worked just fine.
I hate Intermittent electrical problems Where to start.
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This has happened twice so far, I pull out of my driveway then shift to drive. When I shift, I feel a little lock up in the steering wheel and the esc indicator comes on and stays on even when not moving. I then shift to park and turn off the car then back on and it is perfectly fine. Also when the indicator is on, hitting the ESC off button does nothing. What should i do?
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One morning I took the car out to the mall. Right away I had the ESP light on and stayed on the whole time. Tried turning it off with the ESP button to no avail. Got to the mall and let her sit for a few hours. Came back out and started the car and now two light are on. The ESP and Exhaust system malfunction. Found a thread that had the exact same problem as I did. He said the Mass airflow sensor must be bad. So the next morning I popped my hood to find out that a little mouse had made its nest in the engine and had bitten into the wiring harness that lead the the Mass airflow sensor.
I tore apart the tape and found that only the red wire had been chewed all the way through . I soldered the wire back together and re-wrapped the tape. Couldn't find any else around the whole car that was tampered with so I thought I was good to go. Started the car and both light are still on..Drove it around a couple more times to see if that would take them warning light off, and still no go. So I am guess this has to be removed by the dealer is the only way to go?
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I own a 2012 Hyundai Sonata, my grandma owns a 2014 Sonata, and my other grandparents own a 2011 Sonata. On their cars, when their low tire pressure light comes on, the little display inside the RPM gauge shows them which tire is low. My low tire pressure light comes on and works, but for some reason it doesn't indicate which tire is low. It'll tell me which door is opened, but won't show which tire is low. How to fix this, or why it's happening?
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I have a Hyundai Sonata 2011. The light switch in the steering is giving problems. After I turn on the head lamps and drive for 15-20mins. While driving, giving traffic light indicator, the head lights sometimes goes off for a second and comes up again.
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I had a low tire indicator show up on the dash today while driving home. It was flashing. I continued to drive, (only a mile from home) since there was no indication of anything going wrong with the tires. Then, the indicator stopped flashing, and went to steady. Then, by the time I hit the brakes to turn down my road, the indicator was gone. So, I checked all my tires, and with my very old accoutre gauge, they all showed 34.5 (35 being the spec). I hope to not see that again.
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All of a sudden I have only one light (Driving lights)) on the dashboard. I used to have two. I have the Driving Light indicator showing but the headlight indicator light is not lighting up.
The headlights come on OK but not the indicator showing the headlights are on.
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When I had my center console out to do the DIY cupholder light mod, I also took apart the gear position indicator light assembly. It is just a plastic clamshell around a pc board with a bunch of LEDs on it. Three phillips screws hold it together. It is a really simple design. I took a black sharpie pen to each of the LEDs, putting a centered dot on each of them, covering maybe 2/3 of the lens area. I just guessed at that coverage. I reassembled it and was very pleased at the result when it's dark out. The brightness is about half of what it was, just right in my book. You can use the "DIY cupholder mod" thread (page 1) to see how to get the console out. I drive a lot at night, and the bright light has always bothered me. Now if I could just dim those annoying bright green dash lights...
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This morning, while backing out of my driveway, I lost reverse for about one second. It disengaged, just revved, then engaged on its own. I looked down and the "R" on the indicator next to the shifter was not shaded red. Put it into drive to go up the street and "D" was not shaded blue. I then looked up at the dash and the gear indicator up there was blank. Turned the car off and back on and everything has been fine since. 2011 GLS, 43000 miles.
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I have done 2 searches but came up with nothing regarding a 2010 LS 460L. My security system indicator lights are flashing 24/7 regardless of the car being locked or not. Page 113 is not very clear about how to shut them off. I played with so many buttons yesterday after we got home with the car I may have triggered something without even knowing it. I do not recall that they were doing that yesterday when we picked the car up.
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Yesterday when getting into my vehicle after being out of it about 20 minutes and everything working fine, my stereo was on the fritz. A CD was playing but on my display it was giving me a message about an error with the bluelink and needing to hit the bluelink button. I did so which did nothing. I tried to turn off the stereo and it would not turn off. The volume controls and all other controls were inoperational. I could not eject the CD either.
So I drove to my destination and turned my car off and on again. This time my stereo was black. Nothing would work to turn on the stereo at all. I tried multiple times to see if the stereo worked and it did not last night or this morning.
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So I'm driving home from work today, when I notice a new little light in the instrument cluster (looks like a little sun with a ! in the middle). So I dig out the manual and read..."Bulb failure or malfunction in the adaptive front lights system."
I drove up close to see which DRL light is not on...so....at 15k miles my right front head lamp was out. I called my local dealer...the bulb is covered and will be replaced at no charge (4 yrs/50k miles). They said I could stop by anytime and get it replaced. So, no problem there...
But....question: Why do VW bulbs blow so often?? My old '99 Golf and '01 GTI both blew no less than 5 head lamp bulbs starting at about 15k miles (same as my current Passat now). I see VW's all the time with one "eye" out - just an observation - why is this?
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2011 Sonata Se. Keyless fob will not unlock car or open trunk. Brake lights and overhead lights are all that will light. Immobilizer indicator flashes yellow when start button is pushed with brake depressed, car does not even attempt to start.
Putting fob in console will also cause the Immobilizer light to flash, no start up. Holding start button with foot on brake for a minute does nothing.
Owner's manual says call dealer. Car battery is 1 year old and 2 fobs have new batteries, and neither will work.
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